Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have 8guage kicker ofc wiring kit in my truck. Right now its powering one powerbass asa 400.2 subwoofer amp that puts 400 rms. I have an old amp that i want to put on my front door speakers that is 55x2 rms. Would my 8 guage wire be enough for that also? Or do i need to get another wiring kit to be safe? Thankyou. Oh and is there any advice for wiring my front doors? I want both amps in the back of thetruck. Do i run wires from where the factory wires are to the amp for high level input then another back to the doors? Or do i take the wire out of the door and then to the amp And to the doors? Thanks for any help.

i just did the big 3 on my car and the question is the power coming from the alternator to the battery do i need to put a fuse there or not? i left the stock wire intact from the alt to the bat because if i cut it i wouldn't be able to see if my alt is failing or not since it wouldn't be going through the fuse box!! now if i put a big fuse between the wire and still have the other stock fuse in the fuse box there will it mess up anything? or should i just leave it like it is?

I am looking at two different amps. The sundown 3500 or the crescendo 5500. Both r close and around same price. I hear crescendo is not very good at customer service and theory ratings r rated at 13.8 volts. Sundown on the other hand is known for customer service and umderate their amps, supposingly tested at 12.5 volts. I'm leaning toward the sundown amp and almost commuted to it, but would the crescendo b better especially since they have .05 ohm warranty. What do u guys think?

I was at a local shop today browsing and I see a rf 3sixty .1 says he will take $199 for it. Seems decent as far as price. My plan is for my new Malibu I'm buying everything before I install. 2 sa12's, crescendo bc2000, fosgate t1 components, rf power t400.4..etc those things I have now. I want a clean sounding system that of course hits nice and hard. I have no experience with processors. The components will be in stock locations with no intentions of altering that. Head unit will be changed so no need for the oem integration part of the 3sixty just RCA ins. I assume if I plan to use the 3sixty I'll have to ditch the passive crossovers..correct? Which will become an ac…

OK, so if I don't have it completely backwards, I understand that the higher the preout voltage, the lower the gain can/should be set because the amp doesn't have to be as sensitive of the incoming signal - so the amp can put out full power with the lower gain. My question is since the gain isn't set as high, is the amp drawing less current because of it? Or is it drawing the same amount of current as a signal with a lower preout voltage and higher gain setting? Just curious.

So I have Two Sundown SA-12 D4's on a Saz-1500d v.3 amp. my head unit only has 1 output so would http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/cde-134hd/ work with that setup?

I have my install next wednesday, and the problem is...I only have 1 d3100...and the place that I ordered the 2nd one called me and said that they shipped my 2nd one out...but then they called me back and said that they were sold out of the d3100, so they offered to substitute a d2700, my question is....can I install both of these batteries together for my xtra batteries in the back of my car...or is it wrong to connect 2 different model batteries together???????? damn im bummed right now Thanks everyone for the help Freddy

i am going to be powering an Audioque 4X90 and an Audioque 2200D, was wondering if the planned electrical upgrades would be sufficient enough. Kinetik HC1800 up front and another Kinetik HC1800 in the back Knukonceptz KonFused +/- Battery Terminals for both batteries 1/0 ga welder's cable for big 3 upgrade 1/0 ga welder's cable for power/ground run from front to back 1/0 ga welder's cable for 2200D 4 ga welder's cable for 4X90 Knukonceptz KonFUSED High Current In-Line Fuse Holders ran after second battery in rear, 3x 30A fuses for the 4X90 and 3x 100A fuses for the 2200D 8 ga wire for the subs 10 ga wire for the components haven't decided if i will need a h.o. alternator…

to power a 15" or 18" Q should i usa a autotek mm 1400.1 or ss 1500.1? the reason i ask is becasue i have seen a few test done where the ss500 and i think the 1000 did there rated power around 13.8-14 volts. or should i go with the mm1400 and i am getting a good deal on the amps so they are the only 2 i can pick from.

Getting ready for a long road trip next week and had a question. Going to be running a large power inverter the whole time and I wanted to put a extra battery or 2 in. My question is I have a 1 year old blue top from my boat and plan on buying a new blue top to go also, would it be a bad idea to run them both together.

ok so i bought some 0 gauge welding wire for my amp. can i just ground my batt. to the chassis and engine then ground my amp to the chassis? this probably sounds stupid but i dont wanna fuck up

k. im pretty sure i didn't set it up 100% right but thats why i wanna check before i get my new subs. i got 2 amps. i got a 500 watt insignia 2 ch. bridgeable amp and a 1000 watt 2 ch. bridgeable koiiler amp. i think its a 4 gauge wire with fuse wired from my battery to my 1 farad cap. then grounded the cap and attached another power wire from the cap to the 500. then i added another power wire from the cap over to the 1000. i split the blue wire from the 500 from the deck to the 1000. then got sum rca's from the output on the 500 over to the input on the 1000. i kno its confusing but im trying to list it as best as possible. its hard to explain. but its alot cleaner se…

IM TRYIN TO REPAIR MY 1000 WATT CRUNCH AMP AND I CANT FIND A PIC OF THE INSIDE GUTS OF THIS DAMN THING IVE LOOKED EVERY WHERE SO ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT A FEW OF THE DIODS I THONK THERE CALLED FRIED SO I NEED TO REPAIR IF ITS POSSABLE IM NEW TO ALL THIS SO I WOULD LIKE SOME IMPUT THANK YOU OR MAYBE A SCHMATIC ON THIS THING WOULD KICK ASS

I just recently bought a pioneer avh5000 and I was wondering if there is a way to bypass it. Any help would be appreciated.

which would you suggest 2 x american bass vfl 450.1 or 2 x audioque AQ2200 or 1 x audioque AQ3500

I have it wired but it doesn't turn off when I turn the car off because its directly hooked up to the battery. I'm thinking I can splice into my remote turn on for the amp but I won't get a voltage reading from that will i? I need a way to get the best voltage reading possible and for the meter to shut off when the car is turned off... helpppppppppppppppppppp

Hi guys, I have an older Orion 8004 (circa 2003) that has a rather odd wiring setup. I'm not sure, but I think the remote turn-on power is the connector on the far left - with the one bank of speaker connectors. Notice the power connectors on the other side. Can someone please confirm this for me? Thanks, Mark

I've been searching around for some 3/0 lugs for my electrical upgrade. I really prefer using the split barrel over the solid like most of what you see. Like this: I found some on amazon for $2 each. I know I can use the solid barrel but they all seem so damn bulky. Well, not that 3/0 isn't bulky anyway but I'm not trying to have a huge stack of crap on all my connections either. Nor am I trying to spend $100 on some terminals. Anyone have any good reliable sources to look at? Any suggestions? I'm not totally against using the solid barrel lugs if they are fairly compact. Usually I use something like the Knu terminals and call it a day but they don't offe…

Ok I got some new Knu Konceptz battery terminals with 4g outputs and I'm assuming I will need to cut the stock terminal out. So soldering the wires will be the best option right? Now I know with smaller wires you usually just twist them together and then solder but thats not really feasible with 4g, or is it? If anyone has tips on doing this it would be greatly appreciated. This is the terminal I will be using.

I'm running two atomic 5000.1's with 5 C&D Batteries (93ah maxrate ones) with 0awg all over and a 280a XS Power alternator. Now I can say straight off my power supply isnt adequate for all day booming but for short bursts (15 odd mins) its fine. Add to that I'm in the UK and our cars are tiny compared to your guys in the states so space is always an issue. Now my question is my batteries rest at 12.4-6 which seems very low to me ? I have a Ctek 25000 and was wondering should I give the recondition mode a try ? Any one got any general advice as hardly anyone runs these batteries in the UK.

so the other day im driving down the road and my right front speaker cuts out. so i get pissed and try to beat some sense into the door panel but to no avail. i had the problem narrowed down to the wiring harness, but when i checked all of the wires were in perfect condition. and now both of my right speakers dont work. i was told that the internal amp in the HU might have gone bad and i would really like to be able to listen to my music. any thoughts?

RE does not sell the 12.1 anymore, I am wondering if they can repair a damaged one. I have a friend who has one that needs minor repairs. Anybody know?

I have a power acoustik vu560-4x. Back in high school was being dumb when hooking it up and crossed a wire or two and basically it went up in smoke. Basically determined the problem to be 3 of these mosfets. Just wondering how hard it would be to replace these. Would it be just some simple soldering? I figure the 5 bucks it would cost would be worth the try for a highs amp.

hey folks I was hoping u fellas could help me on an amp decision. I think i finally got a pretty good box build at 2.5 cuft per woofer. I have two 12 RE SX 12D2's. I listen to alot of rap and R&B and while i am a lil concerned about SQ, I know i'm a bass head at heart. I want a beast of a daily driver but i also want to be able to take a crack at competitons say one comes my way... any suggestions?