Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So i went a lil over budget when i ordered my sub so i need to go kind of cheap on amp. I have a 18" D2 Death Penalty on the way that is 2k rms. I have read through page after page of post on this and other forums but still need some help. i have narrowed it down to 6 brands which i am all sure would be fine but was wondering if you guys could help to which tends to be a more efficient brand. I will list them in the order i was debating purchase just to see if i was even close lol 1. Soundstream Rubicon series 2. Hifonics BRZ 3. Massive Audio N series 4. MB Quart RA 5. PPI BK 6. RE Audio Thanks! I am sure you guys get hit with questions like this all the time...was…

Hey guys well I want to clean up the wiring behind my head unit a little bit. I have the aswc1 for steering wheel controls, antenna adapter which has a power wire, and the remote wire from my amp. All this is tied into the head units wiring harness. Is this too much on the factory harness? Should I run some additional wires, just looking for some opinions here?

So getting ready to order my head unit and was wondering if anyone has any experience with my choices. right now i am debating... JVC KW.R900bt Clarion cx501 kenwood dpx500bt pioneer fhx700bt Alpine cde w235bt Anyone have any experience with any of these? Pretty sure all will do the job just the reviews are all pretty much the same so looking for better opinions

My Christmas gift from my family is going to be a new HU. I'm replacing a Dual unit with either a Pioneer or Kenwood as I've heard more good things from those 2. The new Pioneers have android app control through Bluetooth. The BT in my Dual has pretty crappy volume compared to plugging it through the aux jack. Are all units like that? Or is it just the fact I've been running a lower quality HU?

I have a tc-loc2 hooked up to a hifonics brx1100.d running at 2 ohms to a re sex v2 12" in a 2 cu ft 32hz box. The amp is rated at 800 rms at 2 ohms and and the sub is rated at 750 rms. I have the gains on the LOC all the way up and the gains on the amp at about 6/8ths, now that is partly because I set the gains with the remote at 50%. Anyways is it alright if the amp gains are maxed out because if I turn the loc gains down I will probably have to. thanks

Some guy on CL is selling one locally. 3x 4v pre outs. RCA input (with $5 cable from ebay) remote, ipod hookup, etc. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11105_Pioneer-Premier-DEH-P500UB.html It's also steering control ready which would be cool. I just need the panel for my steering wheel but I think it would be worth it. Also, I noticed I can either get this thing (Pioneer CD-RB20 -Use for Pass -Thru IP-Bus for MCD Player Connectiom) Or this. or this (Pioneer IP-Bus to RCA, 3.5mm) Is there any advantage of having the module vs the other ones? BTW I'm on the stock unit and all I need is a 3.5mm and 3x preouts.

Your ultimate sub pick?

spent all day today working on my truck and with in the next week i expect to have an amp again for my sub. so let me tell you what my intended lay out is, what my electrical will be, and then you tell me if you think i will need a power cell in with the amps and what size capacitor i should use. 2 batteries under the hood (both AGM). one diehard platinum marine group 31 [1150CCA, 205RC, 100AH] and one diehard gold group 49 [975CCA, 190RC, 95ah] battery. I will have CCA 0ga connecting these batteries to each other, the alternator, frame, block, and 8ga for body. alternator will be a mechman 320A with 0ga ground and power directly connected. I will have either an ec…

Anyone from europe have any experience with these batteries? Namely a brand called "hollywood" their SPV line seems decent for what i need it for. I thought for sure this forum had 1or2 guys from europe. I could be wrong though. Anywho its time for me to upgrade. My stock wet cell battery is going on 4 years in 2014 and i want to switch it out before it dies on me. The SPV35 and SPV45 are the models im looking at heres the specs. I can get these pretty decent price off ebay and ive seen them in person at the local car audio store here where im stationed and they look decent. SPV35 35 AH 440CCA 1000 pulse cranking amps Short circuit-2000 amps SPV45 45AH 660CCA 1200 pulse…

I am currently on my third high output alternator in this car. Both my yellow top under the hood and xp3000 in the trunk have been tested for bad cells etc. they are each fine. There is no indication of belt slip occurring whatsoever not even silent. Big three upgrade is in place. The alt charges perfectly fine for a week or so then just stops putting out amperage as if its a regulator gone bad or rectifier bridge that's somehow over worked itself. Besides mounting it there is a run of positive to the battery from the charging stud and a one-wire charge lead that I splice into a 12v connection for the regulator to operate off of so I don't understand where the issue is co…

i had some issues at sears but now finially got my order placed. i got 2 group 49 AGM batteries for my truck. i currently have 2 group 31 lead acid batteries that still work (sort of) but are rather lack luster for starting the truck. so my thought was i save 15.00 on the order per battery to trade my 120.00 group 31's in (they are 1 year old) OR i could keep these 2 as a secondary isolated battery bank that i could abuse as i wanted with out much worry. do we think this is a decent idea or should i just core charge them? they are 1150CCA 195RC batteries. the truck has its stereo and a 16K Lbs recover winch on the front. my thought was that while the truck is running…

Okay I have a PPI PC2200, But I have no clue how much it's worth. Anyone know?

i bought 2 group 31 batteries for my truck last year, they are now dead to the point that they can not start my truck in teh cold. i do not have lots of money to spend so i am looking for advice on whawt the best batteries are with out spending 700 on stingers. I have a cummins turbo deisel that requires about 220A for 30 seconds in cold weather to heat the air intake, it pulls 750-950A from the starter for about 15 seconds of cranking when cold. i have 1500W of amps for mids/highs and a 2500.1 for my sub. my alt can handle them just fine while running. what 2 batteries should i get? should i go agm for starting or stick wtih liquid acid?

I am looking for some amp meters and an oscope. id like to get your guys's opinions as to what brands and models work well. id love to have flukes but the cost is just to high for right now. i was looking into those pocket oscopes but id like to be able to have a comparative input option so i can pull from 2 sources at a time. anyone know if they make such a module?

I had a kicker but they will not repair it under warranty so im in the market for a new amp between 500-1000.00. what are some recommendations? thanks. dual 1 ohm 18" sub. looking for a 2500+W amp

due to an exploded turbo i need to dig into my truck so id like to fix some wiring. i have some runs of 0ga that i would like ot not throw away but perhaps combine into one long run or do some light extension to them to route them better. how should i combine 2 sets of 0ga cable? my first thought is to but the ends together and solder them, then wrap with shrink or tape. secondly have any of you run wires in the frame rails and pulled them up into cab in back instead of running through the fire wall and under the carpet? what are your thoughts and recommendations on this method?

Hey there guys i just had a quick question. Right now in my car i have a ssa zcon 15' d2 running off a sundown 2500@1ohm. I just wanted to know if its possible to run the zcon off the sundown @4ohms since the efficency is better and i am happy with 600rms since i will be buying a new car and i want less power but keeping the same equipment since i dont wanna sell/rebuy etc.

Which is a better amp? Apsm 2500 Apcl- 18001d Both have good power ratings for my sub but what's the difference? Which is more efficient? Just trying to decide which to buy.

Im wondering if the signal voltage will be sufficiently boosted by the http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27392_PAC-LD-10.html. Will this line driver take the place of a healthy 4.5 pre-out voltage that would be otherwise coming from a deck? I have heard the headphone jack of an ipod has 60 miliamps of current at full volume and im trying to boost that up to what would come out of a deck, effectively eliminating the deck. And if It can supply that voltage, can I max it out to ten volts and then run two Y splitters off of the output side of the line driver? giving me two sets of RCA's at 5 volts off of one ipod headphone jack? thanks all

Has anyone here had any experience with them. I was able to purchase one for $200 planning running a 10 z v.4 at .5ohm with it.

Hello, First to let you know my install that I am having an issue with.... I have a pioneer avh-3200dvd, an sax-50.4 which is powering the IA coaxial speakers in my front stage. The Issue: Yesterday I was going into depth both on my amplifier and the head unit to tune my front stage to my satisfaction. Some 3 hours later, I had gotten it just the way I wanted it. To tune, I unplugged the rcas to pull my amp out to access it, and plugged them back in. The x-over setting on my amp was on full, I switched it to HPF and basically tuned to desire. When I was done, I turned my truck off, then back on, and WHINE, no music playing. Turned the truck off, then into the half posi…

I have 2 MTX amps that both basically have the same problem. They both have little to no ouput. They are receiving sufficient voltage from the battery (14.4V) and the RCAs (4V). No matter what settings I use nothing changes. Neither seem to have bad transistors or anything. One looks perfect and the other has burnt speaker outputs, which seems to be the obvious problem. Amps: MTX TA81001D (Right) MTX TE1501D (Left) Could anyone possibly tell me whats wrong or direct me to someone that could fix them?

Hey guys, I bought a jeep wrangler and the previous owner added in a new HU but decided to be cheap and hack the wires together rather than buy a harness. Every time I shut the jeep off, the radio shuts off, then deletes all the pre sets. I bought a new HU, hooked the wires up, and the same thing happens. Shut off the jeep, bam the HU resets and goes through the initial set stage. What is causing this? Bad ground? I'm stumped.

For Black Friday I found a great deal on an iPad mini and want to use it as my new head unit. I have done some research on how to hook it up and now have a few questions. I found the iStreamer that takes the signal from the iPads USB connector and converts to RCA but right now that piece is way out of my price range. So instead I wanted to use a 3.5mm to RCA output to run my amps. What I was planning was running the 3.5mm to RCA into the aux input on a Clarion EQS746 and running each output to its amp. Front going to my tweeter amp. Rear going to my mids amp. And obviously sub going to my sub amp. Will the EQS746 act as a crossover so I can control my system actively out …