Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

used dc power engineering alternatotrs will they put out to spec?

Amplifier: Rockford Fosgate T-1000bd Recently whenever I turn on my amplifier, regardless of the vehicle running or any input signal from he head unit, just subwoofer on solely, my subwoofer proceeds to violently shit itself. The noise is absolutely terrible. It's just a one pitch note (pitch varies) and is always extremely loud. This has actually been going on for a while. The noise will happen very sporadically and for different lengths of time. I can go a week without the amplifier doing this or I can go one solid month with the noise every time I turn on the amp, no break. It will also go away for months at a time and then come back with a vengeance. I've figured out…

i have two decks laying here that i can pick from.. i have a Alpine cda 7875, or i have a kenwood kvt-617dvd. if you had to pick which one to use what would you pick an why?

This? Alpine IDA-X200 - http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=8449 Alpine CDE-9874 - http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/cde-9874.aspx Pioneer DEH-P3000IB - http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/deh-p3000ib.aspx

Does anybody have advice on what amps would pound 2 15" juggernauts, there dual 1ohm's, my budget is 1600 for amps? there rms is 1500 each

So, I just picked up an 07 Mazda 3, and if you have seen these cars... they have a b*tch of a dash. (For aftermarket head units). I have already picked out a few dash kits and such. Plus, the mazda has steering wheel controls just for the radio so it would be cool if I could keep those if there is a head unit that I could hook up to those. And if not... then that is a bummer. So basically I'm looking for a decent head unit that can possibly hook up to the steering wheel. I would like the head unit to not look "out of place" as well. Basically not look like crap. Not to worried about budget right now until i get further into it but I would like some suggestions that fit my…

Hey all I have a pioneer gm-5300t amp that Ive had for years and bought some new incriminator i65c and was curious if i should use this amp.. I'm not real savvy when it comes to this so i figured id ask.. I figured I could post a site that has info for it. Ive had it hooked up to my wifes car for a small 12 for the past couple of years.. so could/should i use this? link. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8522_Pioneer-GM-5300T.html#tabs

i have a jl slash 1000/1 connected to a yellow top battery but have ran into problems w the distrubution blocks that keep melting only the side that has the wire going into my amp will melt.. i use to have 4 gauge wire than upgraded to 0 and am still having the same probblem would it be the amp? or a grounding probblem?

i yet to get my new head unit, but for when i do waht should i look for on it to makes everything so great, a friend of mine had a system and it sounded good but he got his deck tuned and it sounds 10x better, he can now turn it almost all the way up without any distortion the subs sound more clean and the vocals sound more crips, they never touched his woofers or amps just tuned the head unit, so waht would i look for when i plan on tunning my head unit, Thanks

My friend wants me to put these in his truck and I want to get everything out of them both. The sub is single 2 ohms 300 watts rms, and the amp is 300 watts bridged at 4 ohms and 150 wattsx2 at 2ohms. Is there some way i can wire it to get the 300 watts or is he going to have to deal with the 150 or get new equipment? Thanks

Hi. Can anyone tell me if this is a good amp or not. (SAZ 1200d.1 Mono.) I am aware of Sundowns reputation of having great Speakers/Subs but I don't know about this particular amp. I am planning on using it to power (2) DD1508 D4 subs and would like to know that it will be sufficient with over head left. I do appreciate all input and thank you.

Is the Jensen VM9021TS a good HU, Has anyone owned this receiver in the past and had any problems with it.

guess they have them in stock now..just fyi.. eDesigns nine.1 group buy on another forum.. $300 shipped is the group buy price, limit to first 20 orders..

Installed a Sony (no comment) HU in a friend's car a few weeks ago, with no problems until another friend tried to replace the rear speakers. After which, the radio turn on wire does not function. To get the radio to turn on we have to wire both red (mem) and yellow (12+) to the 12+ constant. Checked every fuse in the vehicle, and smell no burned wires. If all else fails, we will simply run a new set of wires and re fuse them , but either way, i'd like to figure out what went wrong in the first place. 1992 Saturn SL (The awesome kind )

i just ordered all of my wiring from knukoncepts and i want to make sure i got the right fuse type. I have an aq2200d, and i got the 200A fuse type. Is that right?

I was wondering if I needed to solder the ends of my power wire(1/0 knuconcepts) before i put it into my amps. Same goes for the speaker wire going to my sub and speakers. Also, can i just get a cheap battery powered soldering iron, or do i have to get a nicer one? thanks.

Anyone have experience with the massive audio P30001? http://massivemulti-media.com/store/index....p;products_id=4 The prices are very low right now on e-bay and it looks good. If it's as good as it looks does anyone know if it can handle say a 1.4 ohm load with good power supply or is it a rigid 2 ohms? I was thinking of running one of these to A btl 15". what do you guys think? Hope this makes sense I am undercaffenated.

I just installed a hifonics Zeus zrx3000.1d. I was wondering if a 4 gauge big 3 upgrade would help with the light dimming and give the amp more consistent power? Any ideas? If so, I saw on knukonCeptz.com that they had 4 gauge wire for 95 cents per foot.

my friend has a 92 ford taurus with a 130 amp alternator and wants to upgrade his system to a audiopipe 15001d is his electrical sufficient enough for that amp or would he need a second battery in the trunk

Order or build time

I have a couple questions. First, I will tell you what I have. I have a ported box w/ 2 12's they are DB drive PLW12D4's and each sub has its own amp and the amps are Crunch Pzi 1500.1. I also have a yellow top battery under the hood, a 200 amp alternator, a kinetik 800 battery in the trunk, and a 3.0 farad cap. Ok now I am thinking about adding another 12" DB drive, a sundown 1500 amp, and a custom box which I am thinking of having it made to the specs of the subs and 32Hz. I have a 1997 Ford Thunderbird. Also I have about 36 inches for the face of the box to be so the box fits in the trunk. I am looking for SPL. I use the car as a driver but also take it to show…

Need help figuring out where the knob should be for SSF on a saz 3500d with an enclosure tuned to 32hz..Pictures would be nice too.

hello ppl i have 2 jbl gt4 1000watts subs 250RMS which amp would be best to power up my subs

Alright, well I finally had time to run the wires and hook up the AQ2200D i bought and hooked up the Volt meter also. When i First started my truck it was at 14.1V(If i remember correctly). that was with no sub hooked up just the amp, along with a boss rev-665. after having the truck run for about 5 minutes it dropped down to 13.8. I still need to do the big 3(i know i should have this done already ), and Im saving up for a XS D2400 for my main battery. What else would i need to keep a stable voltage around 14.4 or higher. I know I should get a HO alt but I just dont have the money to drop on one at the moment. What would yall suggest for me? Thanks! Alex

http://www.vibeaudio.co.uk/car/blackdeath-amplifiers/blackdeath-reaper/