Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Which do you guys think would push a pair of fully loaded dual 2ohm BL 15s better between the 2amps here; the MM4000.1D(2000rms x 2 @1ohm or 4000rms x 1 @2ohm) or 2-SAZ-1500Ds(Id prefer to run them strapped @0.5ohm)? Electrical system would be able to sufficiently run either or.

i want one of these amps for a fi btl 15. which would be more reliable and push out more true rms watts? are there any other amps that would be good for a btl in the range of $300-$400? thanks

I need to pick out an amp for my front stage. As of right now the vehicle is bone stock..I've purchased a set of 6.5 components (fosgate power t1's). I plan to run them using the supplied passive crossovers in stock locations. Have no plans to run an active setup anytime soon but who knows what will happen in the future. I would like to spend under $250 but could possibly spend more if there is a good reason too. Looking for about 100x4 @ 4ohms and bridgable. I have a MB quart dsc4125 in another vehicle and its OK but want something else for this vehicle. What's out there that's worth a crap?

so ive done the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge wire. have a solid ground from amplifier to frame. yet my amplifier is getting hot and shuts off. input sensitivity is st to 85% db gain is at 0 subsonic bass set to middle frequency level is set to middle what could be causing the over heating?? LOW VOLTAGE??

Now that iv figured out an AudioQue 2200D would be a great choice for my Fi BTL N2, along with my Phoenix Gold 500.4 for my component speakers, i was just wondering what kind of electrical upgrades i would need to support this. (~2700watts). Iv read up on what is needed and im seeing a few mixed results. This is what im thinking: Big 3 240 Amp Alternator Kinetik 2400 Now the kinetik would be replacing my stock battery instead of running my stock and the kinetik. If anyone thinks thats not enough, or i should keep my stock battery or any other ideas it would be a great help.

I was driving my car today and realized I had know sound. I glanced down at my ashtray to find the power light for my saz's bass knob off as well. This would mean both amps have no power. Without the ability to really investigate, I found both power and grounds connected still and my single run of 1/0 positive connected starting battery to optima in the rear connected and not damaged. The ground for that battery seamed fine as well. When I popped the hood, I noticed a lot of crusty corrosion on the starting battery. The car starts fine and the head unit comes up and functions fine, just no sound. I didn't get a chance to check to check fuses, but it seems strange for fuse…

Need a reasonably priced ($200 or less) amp to power two Alpine Type r 12"s These will be going into a '93 range rover LWB. Hopefully in a custom box facing upwards. As of now i want a Hifonics 1208d. What do you think? BY THE WAY, these subs will be used daily. 4g wiring kit.

ok so i have heard that i need to do the big three and not get a cap i have a few questions regarding this though i have a bmw and the battery is in the trunk, so do i still need to run the alt to batt wire with fuse? i mean stock is a 4 gauge and since stock is 4 gauge everywhere will the big three help at all? or do i just need to buy a new battery my car dims a lot with a small 300w system and i have a new battery and alternator everything is grounded correctly and i run 4 gauge and 16 for the subs Patrick

I'm wondering if there are any differences between the 4200 and 4300 besides the pandora feature? Also does the 4200 charge/play music from a iphone 4? Thanks in advanced.

I have a alpine PDX F6 & amp; M6 and they have been working great since I installed them a few weeks ago. Yesterday I tried to make a call via bluetooth and it sent the F6 into protection. Turned the head unit on and off amp resets and comes back on, now I can not turn the volume up with out the amp going into protection. The bluetooth is what has me the most stumped. Any help on where to start trouble shooting would be great. Thanks

ok im in for 2 sundown sa-8v2 i have a few ideas of the amp i want to run but i want to know some of your opions on which amp i should run?

Hey guys. I just purchased a American Bass VFL 150.1 with the Gold Chasis. What do you guys think about the amp in General? I am going to be powering my FI 15" BL @ 1 ohm with it..What you guys think that setup will do?? I like the way the amp looks and from all I have read about it it is a powerful dude..

I finally found it.. I just got a mint Sony Mobile ES Amp. I forgot how nice they were. will do my front stage justice def not xplode crap. 50x4. 1 ohm stable stereo. xm-5046. I'm pretty happy..

Came in yesterday, thought I would share. W.W.

How much battery would you guys recommend for park n play? I'll have about 2k to the lows, and would like to be able to go to a car show in my hometown and show all the highschoolers how it's done. I'm drooling over this, i've been waiting to do a build of my own for so long, and daydreaming conveniently leaves out all the requirements that need to be satisfied before the fun part. I'd like to be able to play the subs with the car off, not for ridiculously long, an hour would be the longest I could see happening; I was thinking instead of two marines from walmart, i'd do a D3100 or a D7500. I'm pretty sure the 7500 is bigger than i'll -ever- need but I mean, it's kind…

I just came back from the store but before I made it home my amp, a JL Audio 1000/1 cut off and the low voltage light came on. I have 1 gauge wiring with Big 3 and 1 gauge running to my rear battery. Both my battery are Optima Red Tops. I was listening to at very low volume like 5 and I decided to crank it and after 8 or 10 seconds it cuts out. I'm pushing a 12W7 so I'm not sure whats the deal. Can it be the stinger 200 amp isolator that I have in between my 2 batteries? All my connections are tight and grounded good. What am I missing? I need to fix this so any suggestions? I think this is like the second time it happens. I believe it happened before, so now that I seen …

So I'm getting a voltage drop to 13.8 after the second song or so I check with my voltmeter i bought cause some1 on here told me i better buy 1 and the reading is 14.4 before the fuse 13.8 after i'm wondering if this is from the resistance the warm fuse? im running the proper size fuse 1 run of 1/0 gauge now what I really want to know is if the drop is from the fuse resistance is this something i should worry about going full tilt? should i add another run of 1/0 gauge? (i have 20ft of knu ofc forsale/laying around but id have 2 buy another fuse) stock alt 2 yellow tops hifonics colossus bridged @ 2ohm (3600 watts supposedly) RF p400.2 -mid RF p200.2 -high (2) D…

Hey guy don't know if you've heard anything about the JBL GTO 1400.1 amp. I was thinking of changing my older PG Tantrum for it. I'm currently driving a JL 13w7 with the PG but I think it's not putting out the wattage it says it does, I mean the fuse rating is only 80 amps compared to the JBL 160 amps. What do you think?

Regretably, my Denon DCT-3500 is dead and gone. However, I really like the idea of 5 channel amps but being that "5" is one character they are really hard to search for. For ease of installation, space savings, and for a dedicated set of drivers a 5 channel fits real well (read the woman's car). Thought I would start a list and ask that everyone list anything else that they might use. Denon DCT-3500 -- 35wx4 @4 80wx1 @4 NeXt VRZ 500.5 -- 70wx4 @4 240x1 @4 Kicker KX700.5 -- 40wx4 @4 200x1 @4 Alpine MRV-F450 -- 30wx4 @4 150wx1 @4 SoundStream Van Gogh VGA800.5 -- 50wx4 @4 200wx1 @4 So far the NeXT is winning by specs, but thought there has to be other options.

Sorry for the this vs. that shit but I would like to know if there is any/much difference between these two products. I'm in the market for 2 new batteries and these 2 brands are fairly similar in price and within my budget. I'm wondering if one or the other is superior, I know Kinetik makes a good, quality product but have no experience with Shuriken whatsoever. If anyone has experience with both or just perhaps knows something about them and could shed a little light here, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm also opening a poll here so if you could vote AND give a short explanation WHY you voted for whichever brand that would also be helpful. This is also for similarly …

Title says it all. It might protect when I first turn the ignition on,sometimes low volume,sometimes full tilt. Mind blown about it. Readjusted the gains,checked my connections,checked voltage at the amp,lowest I seen it was 13.4 full tilt

I need to get 2 12v fans (one in, one out) for my enclosed amprack, but I'm a little confused as to which to get. Some have 3 wires coming out of them, some have 4. My amps already have outputs to power up external fans, which consists of a positive and negative (http://www.dls.se/images/highres/A5_F.jpg). So I'm just wondering which fans you guys have used and which you liked. Thanks yall.

Seeing that my battery is the original and 15 yrs old, I am going to replace it whether or not there is a draw on my system. Discharging to nothing about 10 times in the past weeks I am sure will be the cue de'gra. Being it is an underseat battery I am limited to 6.75" or so in height which leaves me three options (unless you give me more): 1) A replacement from the stealer $130 2) An Interstate battery for $90 http://www.interstatebatteries.com/Batteri...Line_MTP-93.htm 3) An Optima for $130'ish but it will have to be laid down. My gut says that the Interstate is just as good as the Optima other than not being sealed. Having to lay the Optima down scares me a bit as w…

im interested in some opinions on the best option for 7000 rms, looking for a good balance of power requirement and price, any other suggestions welcome, this is what i have come up with so far... stetsom 7k - 1700 dual sundown 3500's - 2000 american bass vfl 500.1 - 1600

I have a Mark Antony Gspot GS754S. I can't find any information on it! Can anyone help me? Any information would be appreciated!