Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

well my batterys i have is 1d4300 in the front and 2 3100 in the trunk i have aso a mechman 270 alt for my car my voltage reads in the front 14.1-14.2 but since my voltmeter in the back and off my amp it shows at the highest 13volts why could that be i just charged the batterys as well so idk any help

Where can I find a Soundigital micro amp for sale? I feel handicapped, all the pages are in a different language, and I can't seen to find a vendor. I'm looking for a two or a four channel small enough to mount in my dash. Wanted a zed micro, but it's a little more than I want to spend at the moment. Been looking at one of these and running it bridged http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46

Title says it all. It might protect when I first turn the ignition on,sometimes low volume,sometimes full tilt. Mind blown about it. Readjusted the gains,checked my connections,checked voltage at the amp,lowest I seen it was 13.4 full tilt

What size fuse should be between the battery and amp?

I have an old series1 amp and still like it, however the I took it out of my van and did not notice that the wire diagram came off the bottom and now i don't remember how to wire

I need an amplifier suggestion for my 2 18 XCON D1's. As I said in the title I'm on a budget but not on a ridiculous one. I know I'm gonna have to spend money, I just would really like to stay under 800. So far I've been keeping my eye on the forums for a used Sundown 3000 or 3500 and I've also been lookin at the AQ3500 and the Crescendo BC3500 (if they ever come out). I'm not opposed to under powering them either but I don't wanna go under 2500 rms. So far my set-up is gonna consist of: Yellow top under the hood Second Battery in the back H/O Alt Polk MM6501 - Front comps RF 6.5 - Back coaxs RF t600-4 - For door and back seat speakers 2 x 18" XCON D1's in a 9 cu sealed e…

So my friend just got a new Sundown amp. The recommended fuse size is 200 amp. He just told me on the phone he currently has a 60amp fuse on his fuse holder. He asked me if it was fine to use what he had, I said I was going to ask around first to see if it was ok to do so. Is it ok to use a 60 amp fuse or will there be any problem/risk or anything?

ok so i have heard that i need to do the big three and not get a cap i have a few questions regarding this though i have a bmw and the battery is in the trunk, so do i still need to run the alt to batt wire with fuse? i mean stock is a 4 gauge and since stock is 4 gauge everywhere will the big three help at all? or do i just need to buy a new battery my car dims a lot with a small 300w system and i have a new battery and alternator everything is grounded correctly and i run 4 gauge and 16 for the subs Patrick

I was driving my car today and realized I had know sound. I glanced down at my ashtray to find the power light for my saz's bass knob off as well. This would mean both amps have no power. Without the ability to really investigate, I found both power and grounds connected still and my single run of 1/0 positive connected starting battery to optima in the rear connected and not damaged. The ground for that battery seamed fine as well. When I popped the hood, I noticed a lot of crusty corrosion on the starting battery. The car starts fine and the head unit comes up and functions fine, just no sound. I didn't get a chance to check to check fuses, but it seems strange for fuse…

well as a few of you know we got dani a 01 nissan maxima with the bose system, and well it has a commen issue with the sub cutting off.. i have done TONS of research but im having a hard time finding the relay i need... the issue is the relay fails on the bose sub amp... i have found instances where people have replaced it with a larger beter relay, but no model number of the replacement part.... ill give you the link of the fix it http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/580528-bose-woofer-cut-off-problem-2001-maxima-3.html http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/dsc07131h.jpg/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/693/dsc07130j.jpg/ i need to find a…

What is the reasoning for not putting one on? It should not be that hard or cost effective since many line drivers and whatnot have clipping indicators.

i am using a dmm to tune my amp. and the voltage i am supposed to reach is 38.73 for 1500 watts. the first time i tried i got it by maxing out the gain and then some bass boost. i have the hu at 32 out of 42 and all eq settings at 0. but i adjusted the frequency and tried again and now i can get it back up as high as it was even when putting it back where it was before. whats the problem? and where should i have my bass knob set at while tuning it? i have done the big 3 and have a stinger spp1500d under the hood with 1/0 running to the amp and have a power acoustik ptid-8310nrbt radio and am going to be using a dc xl 12 if this helps any

After Long Time Of Looking Through 50+ threads using the Search bar and going through the build logs i still was unable to find what i was looking for Im tring to find pictures of amp racks where one amp is on top of the other. I Remember seeing one in an SUV but cant find it. Kinda looks like this...

so ive done the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge wire. have a solid ground from amplifier to frame. yet my amplifier is getting hot and shuts off. input sensitivity is st to 85% db gain is at 0 subsonic bass set to middle frequency level is set to middle what could be causing the over heating?? LOW VOLTAGE??

I have made two schematics. The second one is revised and I think it should work. I also have a few questions. 1) Which is a better setup? 2)What size fuses would go in each fuse holder? the amps have a 150 and 500 amp fuse rating and the alternator is 260 amp.

So my questions are what the difference? Aren't they the same since they are made by the same company? If not which is better and why?

I was just browsing the wooferetc website and I found that they are having a really great deal on the kicker war horse amp... http://www.woofersetc.com/p-6814-warhorse-wx100001-kicker-1-ch-20000-watt-amplifier.aspx seems like a really great price for 10k watts. Just throwing it out there for you guys that want a lot of power.

I recently purchased a 11zx300.1 for my dcon and I'm planning on installing it friday. After looking at the amp and reading the manual I am confused by this and want to see what you guys think. I already tried contacting kicker but they never responded. There are 2 20 amp fuses on the actual amp and the manual recommends a 60 watt external amp by the battery. From what I learned and have always done is match the fuses on the amp to the external one so 2x 20= 40 amp external by the battery. What do you guys think am I taking crazy pills or what? Also, The cadence amp kit that came with the amp has a external 50 amp fuse. Could I get by with this or should I buy 40 amp or s…

so im in class right now, and i cant focus cuz im so pissed off. all i have is a brutus 2608 on a Fi BL. running @ 2 ohms (rated 1700 rms). so heres what happened. im on my way to class, which is about a 20 minute drive. the music was on the whole time. probably going half tilt for the 1st half, then going hard for the last 10 mins. i have never encountered any problems with the amp in the past, so im very conused why it decided to shit out. im running a stock alt and battery, which i know is not enough for this amp, but thats what it is. i never properly set my gain, ive always just turned it down when i saw voltage drop or heard any clipping. back to the story, …

Need a reasonably priced ($200 or less) amp to power two Alpine Type r 12"s These will be going into a '93 range rover LWB. Hopefully in a custom box facing upwards. As of now i want a Hifonics 1208d. What do you think? BY THE WAY, these subs will be used daily. 4g wiring kit.

Dose anyone know what these amps are rated at and what they really do?

Ok guys i'm wondering what could be causing my problem with my amplifier. First of all I'm running an saz-1500d with a fi btl d2 ohm at 1 ohm. Electrical wise is an optima up front, stock wet cell in back, everything done in 1/0 ga including big 3. I've had this installed for at least three months now with not a single issue with the amp. And It was working perfectly fine earlier on my way to work. Then going home from work I had it on for about 5 minutes, cop was coming so I shut the amp off thru the headunit(pioneer), cop passed turned it back on played for about 3 minutes then the amp just shut off. It won't turn on whatsoever. I checked my amp at home with the car run…

Ok, I have been searching and reading yesterday and today. I went back as far as 2007 but I couldn't find any topics like this one that had any good answers. My car will have a Iraggi 180A alternator (biggest that fits my car), BIG 3 with 1/0, 1/0 run for positive and negative from the front to the back and I will be using one Hifonics XX Colossus II and one SS REF4.920, giving a output of about 3800W rms. This will be a daily system, but I will be going to DB drags and other social car stereo events so the car will be competing a little bit and demonstrating the car stereo with the engine off, probably charging with a Ctek 25A charger or using a other power supply. I kn…

what is your favorite amplifer of all time and why? Mine is a Phoenix Gold M100 i had when I was 16---it was my first amp I ever bought with my own money. close 2nd is my Phoenix Gold MS1000---my wife let me buy(it was kinda like my birthday present 6months early) I still have both of these amps.

has anyone ever tried this? http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_am/prod...8&catid=145 looks promising if it works like they claim. i don't have voltage drop just wondering if it actually helps.