Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i noticed that when i turn my system up (1 kicker oldschool zr240 and 1 solo x 10) that the amp will give the sub a good amout of power for about 10 seconds then will lose id say a quarter of the power it had and stay that way. could this be becasue my alternator is not giving the amp a steady voltage??? i have all stock electrical right now with 4 gauge wire and the big 3 done. what do you all think?

Hey guys, I have a good friend who is putting a tablet in place of his head unit. That will leave me with an opening of about 12"x12"x4" to place an amp for him. Does anyone know of or can recommind a 50x4 class ab amp that will fit in those dimensions without getting overly hot? I dont even know what to look for as most amps are bigger than that.... I have heard of mini amps but not sure of sound quality? His budget is less than 150 bucks so PLEASE help lol Thanks in advance!

ordered a 250A alternator Friday the 2nd. just got a email saying its on its way here. Mike Singer not only has killer customer service but the man doesnt mess around.

So my friend just got a new Sundown amp. The recommended fuse size is 200 amp. He just told me on the phone he currently has a 60amp fuse on his fuse holder. He asked me if it was fine to use what he had, I said I was going to ask around first to see if it was ok to do so. Is it ok to use a 60 amp fuse or will there be any problem/risk or anything?

I got a directed d2400 amp hooked up to a JL 13w7. Theres a red and a green light that are both on. The red light has always been on as far as i can remember. The amp keeps blowing fuses like crazy. I can listen to music like half way or so and its fine but when i bang it it will just shut off and pop a fuse. I got 4g wire. I'm not sure why it keeps blowing fuses. I've been through like 7 fuses in a few days. I drive an 01 pt cruiser with no capacitor. Any help will be appreciated, thanks. Side note: it did the same thing when i first hooked it up but it worked fine for a few months now its messed up again. Also my serpentine belt is going bad an it squeeks REAL loud wh…

Ok. Got a brand new Audiopipe aqx-1800d (NOT the popular AP series. The new "better" ones.) It's in a less than optimal install which consists of 4-gauge wire that's only fused for 80 amps and just an upgraded starting battery. I set the gains pretty low and it was just fine. No voltage drop or anything. Then it sat in the car overnight exposed to the elements (read: heat) and all kinds of crazy shit happened. It kinda falls asleep at low volume, and by that I mean it cuts off completely no protect light. If I play it loud and it heats up it cuts off then too, with no protect light then either. It seems like it comes back on when it cools off but it just cut off again an…

alright i found some battery terminals from KnuKonceptz and they hold 1/0 gauge wire. im planning on using them for the big 3 and for my amp install, my question is will they hold a 0 gauge wire? or will i have to just not get a positive terminal? here is the link to the battery terminal

would a 18'' btl tuned to 35 hz sound good. and hit low?

so... i'm sitting in my house for hours, its getting late so i open my garage and too pull my truck in and i notice my amp was still on.. but there was no key in the ignition or anything.. so i'm like what the fuck? i pop my key in and click it over.. head unit doesn't turn on but my amp is still on.. so i pop my hood and unhook my neg on my batt, amp stays on, unhook the pos, amp goes off. Why did this happen?

I was just browsing the wooferetc website and I found that they are having a really great deal on the kicker war horse amp... http://www.woofersetc.com/p-6814-warhorse-wx100001-kicker-1-ch-20000-watt-amplifier.aspx seems like a really great price for 10k watts. Just throwing it out there for you guys that want a lot of power.

I need an amplifier suggestion for my 2 18 XCON D1's. As I said in the title I'm on a budget but not on a ridiculous one. I know I'm gonna have to spend money, I just would really like to stay under 800. So far I've been keeping my eye on the forums for a used Sundown 3000 or 3500 and I've also been lookin at the AQ3500 and the Crescendo BC3500 (if they ever come out). I'm not opposed to under powering them either but I don't wanna go under 2500 rms. So far my set-up is gonna consist of: Yellow top under the hood Second Battery in the back H/O Alt Polk MM6501 - Front comps RF 6.5 - Back coaxs RF t600-4 - For door and back seat speakers 2 x 18" XCON D1's in a 9 cu sealed e…

Just wondering I'm not sure because they are rated at 2 ohms. And If I had a d2 fully loaded btl wired at 1 ohm what would happen?

Ok guys i'm wondering what could be causing my problem with my amplifier. First of all I'm running an saz-1500d with a fi btl d2 ohm at 1 ohm. Electrical wise is an optima up front, stock wet cell in back, everything done in 1/0 ga including big 3. I've had this installed for at least three months now with not a single issue with the amp. And It was working perfectly fine earlier on my way to work. Then going home from work I had it on for about 5 minutes, cop was coming so I shut the amp off thru the headunit(pioneer), cop passed turned it back on played for about 3 minutes then the amp just shut off. It won't turn on whatsoever. I checked my amp at home with the car run…

no upgrded alternator yet but im in the process of looking for one for a 2003 saturn ion, the stock alternator is 105 amps. the starting battery is stock and i will be getting a xs power d2400 for my secondary battery for the 3000 watt rms system first and then change my starting battery. i wanted to know which one would be better just for starting purposes even though i know red tops are designed just for starting a vehicle best. i have researched and heard pros for a yellow and pros for a red, why would i want a yellowtop as a starting battery if i have a xs power battery in the back?

so this kid on SMD claims that i should be ok with an 80 amp stock alternator running off an audio pipe 2000 together with a rockford 250.4 as it is i have major volt drop, have a yellow top under the hood and an xs power xp950 I'm looking forward into buying a singer alt 180 amps but trying to see if it'll be good even after i purchase a larger amp which I'm thinking about the soundqubed q1 3500 let me know what you guys think, should i stick to the 180 amps and still be good in the future? (still gonna purchase a second xp950 in the near future)

Hi 99 Oldsmobile Alero Yellow optima up front and one in the rear Powerbastards 220amp alt knu 1/0gauge (+ and -) front to back, big3 as of today. no fuses. problem persists Im getting a drop from 14.4 to as low as 13.2 when I bring the car to a stop Sometimes it stays at 14.4 when I stop but most of time it dont 13.2 is about as low as it gets, its random and sometimes doesnt drop at all I only get this reading from the rear battery I dont have any of my amps connected, no sound, still a drop The rear battery is grounded to the negative in the front I have also tried grounding the rear battery to the point under the seatbelt bolt that i have used before (no luck) The fr…

i just bought a new car...well new to me, a 2008 pontiac g6 and plan on starting my audio system real soon, the obvious first thing to upgrade is the radio. i went to crutchfield (i buy all my head units from them as they usually make it simple and include everything you need, usually for free) im a little confused on what i need to buy on this one though, this car has the oil life, fuel mileage and all that stuff built into the radio so i would need a special kit to retain all of that, which i definatly want. the link to that is http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120993303/Chevy-Pontiac-Adapter-Package.html now when i added my head unit to my cart, it suggested i add this al…

how are they any good type by them?

The new series x14 hifonics amps have been out for almost a year from what I've seen online with very few reviews... I have an fi bl 15 on the way estimated "wed 24th" and picked up a x14 1500.1d then later returned it because the bl can take much more power if properly tuned. Some say you can tell how powerful the amp actually is by the guts or fuses, to me it seems almost in comparison with the high end amplifiers. And any information or opinions on this subject would be greatly appreciated. The high end amplifiers put me out of my price range for the build reason I ask.

right now, i have 2 12" kicker CVRs, in a ported box, with a kenwood 600w amp. i had a xplod 1000w, but when it got too hot, it cut off and i couldnt do anything.but the kenwood still cuts out, but i can keep listening but at a low volume. but i went to the pawn today, and i found a few bigger amps... which would be the best? Almani 1500w Class "D" Kenwood 800w (mines kenwood 600w) Infinity 1600w Power Acoustic 1600w kenwood looks real small,the power acoustic is the biggest in size,if any of that matters, and almani sounds good with its class "d" thing, and is second biggest in size. but i dunno what that means.

im sure the SS is better, but for a little more or around the same, i can get the 4 power acoustik a3000db's. anyone mess with these? what kinda power do they do? its either 4 of those or 1 ss xxx10000. theres no way im gonna get 10k w outta it though becuase thats at 16v. im gonna be running 1 300a alt and most likely 4 odessey pc1700s. more if needed... opinions? or possibly hifonics maybe? how are the new model hifonics(the ones that are black) i remeber hearing lots of problems about the old ones like the bx1000d's that they would break... help a fellow out VJ

I'm thinking about buying a Fi Btl N2 and I was looking at amps and it seems like hifonics is a good brand from what I have seen and read. I was just wondering wether I should get the brutus or the hfi series. I need to run around 2000 watts. Both the Hfi and Brutus amps are class D and say they are used for subs. So I was just curious on what your opinions are.

Where can I find a Soundigital micro amp for sale? I feel handicapped, all the pages are in a different language, and I can't seen to find a vendor. I'm looking for a two or a four channel small enough to mount in my dash. Wanted a zed micro, but it's a little more than I want to spend at the moment. Been looking at one of these and running it bridged http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46

Hello, everyone. I am admitting to being a newb at this stuff but hey, everyone was, at once, one as well lol I had a couple RE SX12's hooked up to a 1600W amp in my last car with a 105 amp alternator and they sounded amazing but it was hooked up with no electrical upgrades, not even big 3, so the lights dimmed out when the bass hit. I have bought a used car now and the alternator is most likely between 80-105 amps and my new amp is 2400W (Hifonics BRZ2400.1D - latest model). I am also debating between a DC Audio level 4XL 15, level 5 15, AA mayhem 15 or even an 18 of any of those. I know they are all amazing woofers but I dont know which one would perform optimally with …

i have a audiobahn A2200HCT i had it pushin a dd3515 at 2 ohms half the power and one day i got in my car and turned the key over with out starting the car and the volume was on 7 as soon as the bass hit the amp popped 4 times all the lights work and the cooling fans it just dont make no noise ive takin it all apart and looked it over i cant find anything burnt up nothing smells funny i dont know what it is. i have some pics but i dont know how to post them on here thanks for your time