Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Came in yesterday, thought I would share. W.W.

How much battery would you guys recommend for park n play? I'll have about 2k to the lows, and would like to be able to go to a car show in my hometown and show all the highschoolers how it's done. I'm drooling over this, i've been waiting to do a build of my own for so long, and daydreaming conveniently leaves out all the requirements that need to be satisfied before the fun part. I'd like to be able to play the subs with the car off, not for ridiculously long, an hour would be the longest I could see happening; I was thinking instead of two marines from walmart, i'd do a D3100 or a D7500. I'm pretty sure the 7500 is bigger than i'll -ever- need but I mean, it's kind…

I just came back from the store but before I made it home my amp, a JL Audio 1000/1 cut off and the low voltage light came on. I have 1 gauge wiring with Big 3 and 1 gauge running to my rear battery. Both my battery are Optima Red Tops. I was listening to at very low volume like 5 and I decided to crank it and after 8 or 10 seconds it cuts out. I'm pushing a 12W7 so I'm not sure whats the deal. Can it be the stinger 200 amp isolator that I have in between my 2 batteries? All my connections are tight and grounded good. What am I missing? I need to fix this so any suggestions? I think this is like the second time it happens. I believe it happened before, so now that I seen …

So I'm getting a voltage drop to 13.8 after the second song or so I check with my voltmeter i bought cause some1 on here told me i better buy 1 and the reading is 14.4 before the fuse 13.8 after i'm wondering if this is from the resistance the warm fuse? im running the proper size fuse 1 run of 1/0 gauge now what I really want to know is if the drop is from the fuse resistance is this something i should worry about going full tilt? should i add another run of 1/0 gauge? (i have 20ft of knu ofc forsale/laying around but id have 2 buy another fuse) stock alt 2 yellow tops hifonics colossus bridged @ 2ohm (3600 watts supposedly) RF p400.2 -mid RF p200.2 -high (2) D…

Hey guy don't know if you've heard anything about the JBL GTO 1400.1 amp. I was thinking of changing my older PG Tantrum for it. I'm currently driving a JL 13w7 with the PG but I think it's not putting out the wattage it says it does, I mean the fuse rating is only 80 amps compared to the JBL 160 amps. What do you think?

Sorry for the this vs. that shit but I would like to know if there is any/much difference between these two products. I'm in the market for 2 new batteries and these 2 brands are fairly similar in price and within my budget. I'm wondering if one or the other is superior, I know Kinetik makes a good, quality product but have no experience with Shuriken whatsoever. If anyone has experience with both or just perhaps knows something about them and could shed a little light here, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm also opening a poll here so if you could vote AND give a short explanation WHY you voted for whichever brand that would also be helpful. This is also for similarly …

Title says it all. It might protect when I first turn the ignition on,sometimes low volume,sometimes full tilt. Mind blown about it. Readjusted the gains,checked my connections,checked voltage at the amp,lowest I seen it was 13.4 full tilt

ok well ive been banned at caraudio.com til the 16th, but that site is gay anyways cuase half the people over there are arsehos and flame just cuase they dont like my speakers, and you guys seem to answer my questions faster and without 20 pages of spam, so im gonna just questions over here from now on lol. anyways, my 4 ma hk4000d's should be here soon, and im wondering what/how many batts, etc i need. i want to do 16v, but im not positive yet. each amp will be ran @ 2 ohm, and its for music, i will *rarely* burp them. i want these amps to last and not break lol. also, does anyone know if the little hk 2 ch amps can be run on 16v on music or not? VJ

im interested in some opinions on the best option for 7000 rms, looking for a good balance of power requirement and price, any other suggestions welcome, this is what i have come up with so far... stetsom 7k - 1700 dual sundown 3500's - 2000 american bass vfl 500.1 - 1600

I have a Mark Antony Gspot GS754S. I can't find any information on it! Can anyone help me? Any information would be appreciated!

i noticed that when i turn my system up (1 kicker oldschool zr240 and 1 solo x 10) that the amp will give the sub a good amout of power for about 10 seconds then will lose id say a quarter of the power it had and stay that way. could this be becasue my alternator is not giving the amp a steady voltage??? i have all stock electrical right now with 4 gauge wire and the big 3 done. what do you all think?

what is your favorite amplifer of all time and why? Mine is a Phoenix Gold M100 i had when I was 16---it was my first amp I ever bought with my own money. close 2nd is my Phoenix Gold MS1000---my wife let me buy(it was kinda like my birthday present 6months early) I still have both of these amps.

Hey guys, I have a good friend who is putting a tablet in place of his head unit. That will leave me with an opening of about 12"x12"x4" to place an amp for him. Does anyone know of or can recommind a 50x4 class ab amp that will fit in those dimensions without getting overly hot? I dont even know what to look for as most amps are bigger than that.... I have heard of mini amps but not sure of sound quality? His budget is less than 150 bucks so PLEASE help lol Thanks in advance!

ordered a 250A alternator Friday the 2nd. just got a email saying its on its way here. Mike Singer not only has killer customer service but the man doesnt mess around.

So my friend just got a new Sundown amp. The recommended fuse size is 200 amp. He just told me on the phone he currently has a 60amp fuse on his fuse holder. He asked me if it was fine to use what he had, I said I was going to ask around first to see if it was ok to do so. Is it ok to use a 60 amp fuse or will there be any problem/risk or anything?

I got a directed d2400 amp hooked up to a JL 13w7. Theres a red and a green light that are both on. The red light has always been on as far as i can remember. The amp keeps blowing fuses like crazy. I can listen to music like half way or so and its fine but when i bang it it will just shut off and pop a fuse. I got 4g wire. I'm not sure why it keeps blowing fuses. I've been through like 7 fuses in a few days. I drive an 01 pt cruiser with no capacitor. Any help will be appreciated, thanks. Side note: it did the same thing when i first hooked it up but it worked fine for a few months now its messed up again. Also my serpentine belt is going bad an it squeeks REAL loud wh…

Ok. Got a brand new Audiopipe aqx-1800d (NOT the popular AP series. The new "better" ones.) It's in a less than optimal install which consists of 4-gauge wire that's only fused for 80 amps and just an upgraded starting battery. I set the gains pretty low and it was just fine. No voltage drop or anything. Then it sat in the car overnight exposed to the elements (read: heat) and all kinds of crazy shit happened. It kinda falls asleep at low volume, and by that I mean it cuts off completely no protect light. If I play it loud and it heats up it cuts off then too, with no protect light then either. It seems like it comes back on when it cools off but it just cut off again an…

http://www.millionbuy.com/pakov22600.html how is that amp? does it make the power it says? I need to run 4 aa 8's at about 300 watts per sub and would like a little more power to have

alright i found some battery terminals from KnuKonceptz and they hold 1/0 gauge wire. im planning on using them for the big 3 and for my amp install, my question is will they hold a 0 gauge wire? or will i have to just not get a positive terminal? here is the link to the battery terminal

so... i'm sitting in my house for hours, its getting late so i open my garage and too pull my truck in and i notice my amp was still on.. but there was no key in the ignition or anything.. so i'm like what the fuck? i pop my key in and click it over.. head unit doesn't turn on but my amp is still on.. so i pop my hood and unhook my neg on my batt, amp stays on, unhook the pos, amp goes off. Why did this happen?

I was just browsing the wooferetc website and I found that they are having a really great deal on the kicker war horse amp... http://www.woofersetc.com/p-6814-warhorse-wx100001-kicker-1-ch-20000-watt-amplifier.aspx seems like a really great price for 10k watts. Just throwing it out there for you guys that want a lot of power.

I need an amplifier suggestion for my 2 18 XCON D1's. As I said in the title I'm on a budget but not on a ridiculous one. I know I'm gonna have to spend money, I just would really like to stay under 800. So far I've been keeping my eye on the forums for a used Sundown 3000 or 3500 and I've also been lookin at the AQ3500 and the Crescendo BC3500 (if they ever come out). I'm not opposed to under powering them either but I don't wanna go under 2500 rms. So far my set-up is gonna consist of: Yellow top under the hood Second Battery in the back H/O Alt Polk MM6501 - Front comps RF 6.5 - Back coaxs RF t600-4 - For door and back seat speakers 2 x 18" XCON D1's in a 9 cu sealed e…

Just wondering I'm not sure because they are rated at 2 ohms. And If I had a d2 fully loaded btl wired at 1 ohm what would happen?

Ok guys i'm wondering what could be causing my problem with my amplifier. First of all I'm running an saz-1500d with a fi btl d2 ohm at 1 ohm. Electrical wise is an optima up front, stock wet cell in back, everything done in 1/0 ga including big 3. I've had this installed for at least three months now with not a single issue with the amp. And It was working perfectly fine earlier on my way to work. Then going home from work I had it on for about 5 minutes, cop was coming so I shut the amp off thru the headunit(pioneer), cop passed turned it back on played for about 3 minutes then the amp just shut off. It won't turn on whatsoever. I checked my amp at home with the car run…

no upgrded alternator yet but im in the process of looking for one for a 2003 saturn ion, the stock alternator is 105 amps. the starting battery is stock and i will be getting a xs power d2400 for my secondary battery for the 3000 watt rms system first and then change my starting battery. i wanted to know which one would be better just for starting purposes even though i know red tops are designed just for starting a vehicle best. i have researched and heard pros for a yellow and pros for a red, why would i want a yellowtop as a starting battery if i have a xs power battery in the back?