Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Someone is selling it for $400. I wanted to know what is anyones experience or info in regards to this amp. I was not able to find anythingthrough google or yahoo.

Hello jw if box rise is influenced whatsoever by the number of amplifiers used in a system set up or if it is essentially the same regardless of how many amplifiers are used to power a set of drivers

i want to have a test bench that i can test subs and amps and speakers on maybe even one that i can test how many true rms watts an amps is i have an extra head unit and some speakers i can hook up and a couple amps that need testing i just dont want to pull out my system to test them. how would i go about setting up a test bench? what do i need to set it up if someone has one can you take a video of it and show how you hooked yours up? please and thank you

So recently I had to reset all of my settings in my HU (see sig). I'm now wondering. What is up with all the intense as hell stuff i can set. Idk what any of it does really. main point. This HU is seemingly more SQ oriented that I thought it was. Not a bad thing. It sounds great. But i'm wondering if their are any general tips to make anything else sound better. System notes: all stock speakers, just sub stage added. thanks, Brett

I want to use a JL Audio XD400/4 amplifier to drive my front stage two-way component set. This amplifier is four channel but is bridgeable. I have a two channel input signal for the XD400/4. If I read the manual correctly, I need a y-adapter (I will just make a RCA cable with 2 in 4 out) to connect to the XD400/4 to use the amplifier as a L+R bridged. Right? So basically the XD400/4 needs a four channel input to run as stereo bridged? From the XD400/4 manual: "When a pair of the XD400/4’s channels are operating in bridged mode, the output will be in mono (only one channel). This mono channel can contain right channel only information, left channel only information or the …

Anyone jump on this yet? https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-408-4x8-dsp-digital-signal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio--230-500?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

I have an 08 Jeep patriot that will most likely be seeing a Hybrid Audio Legatia L8/L1 pro combo up front and a single sub in the rear. I have been weighing my options and I am curious. I am going for a stealth install, so basically you will see the amp. I'll be using the factory 6 cd head-unit so my options are this amp, an h701/rux-c701 combo or a rockford fosgate 360.2. The sub section will be one 8" sub seeing 360 watts at 4 ohms. Which option would you go with if your goal was awesome sq from a stealth install using factory head-unit, factory mounting locations etc...

The subs I'm most likely getting are the Mach 5 IXL-12.2.2...two of them, and they are only Dual 2. With the Orion, I'd need to run it @ 0.5 ohm. With the Directed, I can run it @ 2 ohm. With the Directed, it has to come across the border. Which would you get? I can get both for the same price, but the Directed has to come across the border..

ok well ive been banned at caraudio.com til the 16th, but that site is gay anyways cuase half the people over there are arsehos and flame just cuase they dont like my speakers, and you guys seem to answer my questions faster and without 20 pages of spam, so im gonna just questions over here from now on lol. anyways, my 4 ma hk4000d's should be here soon, and im wondering what/how many batts, etc i need. i want to do 16v, but im not positive yet. each amp will be ran @ 2 ohm, and its for music, i will *rarely* burp them. i want these amps to last and not break lol. also, does anyone know if the little hk 2 ch amps can be run on 16v on music or not? VJ

well i have all my measurements on my mdf and i have chualk glue screws and and the stuff i need.. but i have a skill saw or whatevers,is there anything that u prefer that i should use beside a skill saw cuz i dont know if theres certian saws that will make it look better or anything like that.. what do yall think?

2005 tahoe running 2 runs of 1/0 cca and 3 batts juicebox black cherry, apple, and crescendo logic 31 Order a 270 amp 6 phase power coated red So I went ahead and order a stinger alt and was wondering a few things being the fact that I never had a beefed up alt before...would that be a problem running my stock and a stinger alt if not do I need extra part to do that. Do I have to run to different lines from the alt to the batts or can I just do alt to alt to batts...if so do I have to run the stinger alt first than the stock ???

Anyone know how these amps would compare to each other running 2 btl 18's?

I was wondering what type of amp i should get to power 2 12 RL-Ps so that they can still bump real loud but have good sound quality. I am looking for an amp that is not to expensive. Hopefully under 250 if possible. I have been recommended the Hifonics Hifonics BX1205D/BX1605D, are there any comments on those amps? Will they work well? Any other amps that may be able to do the job? Thanks. Mike

aight i see that AP came out with a new amp the Ap AQX3500.1 anyone have any reliable info on it? does it actually do rated... i have heard good things about the ap3000.1 just curious if would be a good investment if i decided to upgrade my system?

amp isn't as loud as when first got it. any ideas

the amp arrived today, and I just fooled around with the buttons until I came up with something that sounded good. Between the Pioneer DEH-80etc. and this there's a lot more tweaking than in the old days! I have 4 sets of comps, one in each door so they're all identical. I also have a matching crossover box for each comp with sep. cables going to tweet & 6.5 mid. I do NOT want to bridge this. I want full control over all four comps to adjust for placement strength etc. But I will say this, after listening for an hour in my driveway the thing went into protection mode...already! At one point on the fader, fading to ALL front made the sound (except sub) vanish,…

One U.s. Amps VLX-25 @ 1/2 mono that draws 400 amps ona 95 Accord and need alternator upgrades badly. . right now i got a stock 100 amp alternator w 3 batteries totaling amps. A friend remommended Ohio Generators and want opinions on them or better options?

Ok so I'm looking for a few suggestions on a few amps for my planned 4 Sundown X 10's or other comparable sub. Vehicle is 07 Mini Cooper s Big 3 1/0 upgrade Battery is stock till it finally goes then plan on an AGM of some sort will worry later on that HU is Pioneer 80 prs as far as goals are concerned I really dont have any I just want to have other Mini's jealous. I know thats a stupd goal but at te moment I'm not competing or showing possibly in future but I just like thhe idea of 4 10's Budget Currently Ha but looking to stay around 400/amp probably looking at 2 amps plus a new 4 channel amp for my Mids/Highs which at time are Kicker SS 56.2 possably into replacing…

Me personally do not like threads like the one i am making currently.. but i just need suggestions for my brother. He's getting (2) 15" BTLs for a 99 Dodge Dakota RT. I need amp suggestions, either.. (2) 2k amps that can be strapped OR (1) 4k amp The amps can be around 2k or 4k. We've thought about AQ2200 and SAZ-4500D Thanks, BanginGMC.

Ive got 2 FI BL 12's fully loaded, a 275 amp alt, and 2 yellow tops. My question is.......would it be better (louder) to run 2 amplifiers linked to the subs? OR would it work better to have an amp per sub? And if i did amp per sub....how would i tune them together without buying anything. Im asking this because ive been looking at this Hifonics BRZ2400 and it looks like a wiener

I have an 02 Ford F250 5.4l XLT CrewCab truck. I 'm running: (1) 12" 09 BL with a Diamond Audio 1000.1 (4) Polk db6500 components with a 1000.4 Yellow Top 250A Rhino Alternator Ever since I installed the BL I've been dimming. I probably have to install a seperate battery but I dont understand why I'm dimming when I got a new 250A Alt? I though the amp makes the power?

Im installing 4 super tweets(8-ohm each), 10 cadence mid-high 6.5 (8-ohm each), 4 kicker 8" comps for mid-bass (8-ohm each), and a cadence 5 channel amp. (tweets wont be amp'd) I have no crossover or processors yet. My question to you guys is, how would I make this work? And what do you guys suggest I buy as far as crossovers and processing?

Im looking for suggestions on powering a single Morel Ultimo 10" 4 ohm subwoofer, preferably 2 channel that will give me sufficient power at 4 ohms bridged. that seems to me like the most cost efficient and effective way to go. My budget would be in the 300 to 600 dollar range. so far i have been looking at the ARC ks 300.2 Any suggestions will be helpful.

Hey all.Things have changed recently so im not going to be able to do the big system I wanted.I was wondering if I were to buy 2 12" SSA Icons and power them with a AQ 2200,would I need a HO Alternator?I was planning on also buying a Kinetik HC 1800 for a extra battery in the back and a Kinetik HC 800 for under the hood.Im not 100% sure how big my stock alt is but im prety sure its between 100-125 amps.Any info or advice would be much appreciated.Thanks.

I just had a fun time fixing my charging system today so i thought i spill some info out there for ya. When you look at an alternator, you must understand it's purpose and how it will safely work. An alternator basically keeps your battery(ies) charged. In car audio, we usually tend to buy a H.O. alt because it will help run the system and\or keep the battery(ies) charged but it's not that easy! There are things you must know or damage can occur to your alt or batt(s)! 1 - If purchasing a H.O. alt, do NOT purchase only based upon what size you need to run your car audio install! BIG NO NO! Why? Alternator's charge batteries, not just run stereo equipment! If you have a l…