Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So did it? tell what you have for electrical as well I have a DB electrical 250a alt, big three XS power d3100, SAZ-3500d Basically, my question is according to your experiences, will multiple runs help me?

I set my sub amp gains with my hu eq flat. It sounds ok, but I seem to be wanting a little more. Is it bad or potentially harmful to tune the eq on my head unit with the amp gains set as is, or is it wise to reset the gains after messing with the eq? I learned my lesson the hard way about bass boost by frying my last sub. My sub and amp are matched as far as RMS goes, so I dont want to take any chances and risk damaging my sub. Advice? And how reliable/accurate is the clipping light on an amp sub remote?

So I bought my Head Unit, Pioneer DEH-P4200ub. Bought all the installation gear I needed. I connected the wires correctly and when I plug everything in the unit turns on but the speakers aren't working. With the factory radio they work fine. I called best buy and the dude said that because I have onstar I need a special harness that's 100 bucks, and if I don't use it that the door chime won't work and the check engine light will come on. So my question is do I really need this special harness to make the speakers work as well? Is there any way I can bypass this? Or am I just not hooking it up right?

So I get to the alt shop and talk to the guy. We test my alt with a clamp meter and a volt meter. Here is the results. No accesories 12.7@600rpm 13.9@700rpm 14.5@900+rpm Acc on (no stereo, just lights and A/C) 11.8@600rpm 13.6@700rpm 14.5@900+rpm Now here is the part that gets me. The alt shop told me that I do not need a smaller pully. Shop: "You need another battery and an isolator." Me: Why??? Shop: You have plenty of amps but low voltage. Me: OK, another battery run by itself is going to help? Shop: Sure it will... Me: please explain this to me? Shop: the second battery will no longer be tied to any of the other accories in your truck. Me: thats fine and all, b…

i've had my sae 1200d for 5months now. Yesterday when i was bumpin it a fuse blew. I replaced the blown fuse and everything was working fine. Today when i was listening to it at low volume, well my volume goes up to 30 and i put it at 23-24, so anyway i played it at 15 and nothing happened. When i put my bass to +3 its usually on -3 the fuse blew again. How can i fiz this issue?? If this is a voltage problem im going to get an xs battery soon, money is tight right now so i had to choose between some second skin or the battery. And so i bought 20sqft of damplifier and it sounds GREAT, MAJOR difference, it cleared up the sound and theres no more rattle. But anyway what shou…

So Ive bought and returned every solder gun in home depot and none of them work for what Im doing. I want to solder the ring terminals to my 0/1 wire but the guns dont heat it up enough. Where do i get a decent solder gun for doing 0/1 wire and how many watts should it be? The highest I found at home depot was 75. Two weekends in a row now its starting to get frickin annoying. Any ideas?

I am looking for some amp meters and an oscope. id like to get your guys's opinions as to what brands and models work well. id love to have flukes but the cost is just to high for right now. i was looking into those pocket oscopes but id like to be able to have a comparative input option so i can pull from 2 sources at a time. anyone know if they make such a module?

so as stated, i'm still trying to figure out the best amp to get for my subs. i am in search of an amp that will push 1500 rms at 1.5 ohms. ignoring price, just curious as to what amps out there will push that power at that resistance. thanks

i recently bought a fi bl 15 dual 1 ohm sub and in desperate need of an amp with 0 guage connectors

I have an aftermarket Pioneer HU (AVIC F900BT) and it has a sub control level (from 0 to 6) and bass boost (0 to 6). Would having a bass knob make any difference or is it the same thing as the bass boost on the HU?

So I was driving to school int he morning and I noticed that the volume of my bass was decreasing and it eventually cut out completely. When I got to school I opened my hood and found my fuse holder deformed and melted. Anyone know why this happened? And I cant open the damn thing to put a new fuse in =(

Just wanted to know the opinion of someone who owns one. I am thinking about this or the dc 2k so input would be much welcome. Sincerely, Matthew

Alrighty, so i finally got my front stage installed. But when i first turned everything on each speaker has just about as much, if not more, static than music output. I tried messing with the Xover setting and such, but nothing seemed to change it. Amp: Sundown 100.4 HU: JVC KDs100 Mids: AA carbon fibers Tweets: Seas Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) I've only tinkered with the speakers playing for ~10 minutes, for fear of damaging anything. I'm at a loss of what could make this kind of noise, to every speaker. makes me think it has to do with the amp? All of this stuff is brand new. I did plug in one mid, might have done the other i dont remember, to my factory speaker wire fro…

I have a Denon DCT-A100 HU and I have been looking for some good external signal processors since the Denon has absolutely nothing as far as processing goes. I'm basically looking for at least a 30 band EQ that has all your basic features, time alignment, etc. What are my options? My setup is as follows: 2 Fi Q 12's (possibly upgrading to 18's in the future) running in an IB Sundown SAZ-1500 on the subs And what's coming soon: Hybrid Technologies Legatia 3-way set (8" woofer, 4" midrange, 1" tweeter) Sundown SAX-100.4 on the mids and woofers Sundown SAX-100.2 on the tweets

What would be the most efficient way to reach 15k rms? Options are 2 Crossfire 8ks, 2 Ampere Audio 7.5s, or 2 Ampere Audio 8.0s VS 6 Scv 3ks, 6 Skar 2500s, or 6 American Bass 175.1 VFLs I will be powering 12 15s so I am looking to get around 13 to 15k rms. Cost wise 2 amps would be cheaper.

I've been seriously considering this deck lately. For what its got its really one hell of a deal. Anyone have any info on the new pioneer decks? http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Pro...ers/DEH-P800PRS

I have an Alpine CDA-9886. The way have mine set is I have the sub out on 15 and the gain on my amp set at a moderate level. I notice a when play it at 20 it'll be hitting good, but when I turn it up past 20, that bass stays at the same level and doesn't get louder. My friend said it's my deck and he has had simular problems with Alpine's and has me interested in a nice Pioneer deck if my deck is the problem. I'd like a 2nd opinion from you guys.

hi, i have an alpine 9887 hu and also a sax100.4 and a 100.2 and here is what i want to do. an active front stage using the sax100.4 as the processor not the 9887 and have 2 eu700 in the back off of the sax100.2 with a 400 hz lpf for midbass ( already have them so no changing of that) and i need to know would i set the crossovers on the 9887 as a 2.2 3way or a 4.2 system since u have to take out the unit and move the slide i would rather ask then experiment since it is a pita to take out the head unit in my car. and also would it be a l=r or l/r and also i am going to be having subs too that is why the lpf is kinda of high.

Not my choice, but this girl needs an amp that does 400 watts @ 2 ohms. List a few ideas for me.

So recently I had to reset all of my settings in my HU (see sig). I'm now wondering. What is up with all the intense as hell stuff i can set. Idk what any of it does really. main point. This HU is seemingly more SQ oriented that I thought it was. Not a bad thing. It sounds great. But i'm wondering if their are any general tips to make anything else sound better. System notes: all stock speakers, just sub stage added. thanks, Brett

hello Whats up with the 2007 Crunch (Ground Pounder) D class amps? Do they do rated power(if so) how many volts to get rated power? Thanks

hey I ran across what I think is a good deal. Its for a massive P3000.1 Im wondering how good of an amp is this, and how good of a price is 400 bucks? I cant seem to find much about it online so I figured I would ask here. Also, would I need a new Alt to run this amp? thanks

so i was not going to buy a head unit in the first place but now that im thinking i can probably use the features for the eq... i have been looking at the clarion vz300 and that appeals to me, but also the jensen vm9224 i dont know much about jensen and im not sure if they are a reliable brand, so some help here would be nice.. in fact i wouldnt mind suggestions for other headunits as long as they are under 250

I have 2 large 100aH AGM batteries in the rear and a factory sized AGM under the hood. A cpl weeks ago I went to start the van and it was dead. I got it started and voltage was terribly low. I only ran it for a few minutes then let it sit, restarted a few times for a few minutes...I dont have a charger. After a couple days everything seemed back to normal. I watch the factory gauge a lot closer and am surprised at how much voltage can change day to day while running, independant of hot days to cold days. Some times it runs around 13.5V other times 14.2V, even in the same day, sometimes 14.2V when its warmer and been driving and sometimes 13.5V when its colder and/or less …

SSA I am looking for a 4 channel amplifier to power a pair of components so that I can add rear deck speaker or go active at a later time. The two main amps I am looking at are the SKAR Audio LP-80.4 and RE Audio USX-4250. Is there any knowledge of if these amps put out what they are rated at in clean power? Are there better amps for around $175? Thanks, hayestc