Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i just ordered a stinger digital volt meter and my question is ... where would be the best place to wire it to? the starter batt, the amp, the radio? im just not sure. any help would be appreciated

I need a 5/6 channel amp for one of my cars. I need about 75-150 or so watts per channel on channels 1-4, and a 5th (or 5th and 6th bridged) channel to run a sub with 500-1000 watts. I was looking at the following: US Amps AX-5600 US Amps USA-5600x (getting hard to find) Hifonics Zeus ZXi60.4 + 1k Memphis Belle 16-MCH1300 The only problem with the latter two is that they are most likely made in China... which is a huge turn off for me given my recent experience with chinese made amps. Anyone have any other suggestions? Sub is unimportant at the moment, as it will be picked after the amp is. I'm trying to stay under $500, if possible, but that is not a hard cap. I alos wan…

I was hoping someone could help me out trying to figure out where to get this part other then woofersetc . (NAKAMICHI RCA 3PIN CONNECTOR) They charge $50 for a $2.00 plug in . Is this something that nakamichi head units use only? I have never seen the rca from the back of a car head unit like this . I bought my unit cd400 a pretty long time ago and can't figure out why the third one for the AUx was not included in the box or the place i had it installed (which is now out of business) lost it .Now i found woofersetc selling one for 50 , pretty crappy since the rca on the nak units are junk . This units is rated at 4volts , No way does it have that much . I tried a few pl…

So I've had the big 3 in my car for about a month and a half now everything was fine until this morning I opened my hood and one fitting was melted. It has 1 0gauge going to the battery and 2 4gauge going to starter and the other going to my fuse box. My car turns off as soon as I turn my AC on my car turns off. Also the 4 gauge going to the fuses had the insulation gone completely melted

Yesterday we put the stereo in my cousin's Silverado. We had a remote wire problem and need to pull the HU out today. We noticed last night that his dome lights won't turn off now, even after pulling the key and shutting the doors for a while. It's never done this before until now, is there any chance fixing the remote wire will solve this problem?? Thanks

I have two JL audio 1000/1 V@ that I want to put on my FI BTL 18" dual 2 but I want to be safe cause I use it for daily.... does anyone know about these amps to know how I should tune and how I should strap or run each amp to each coil. Right now I have a hifonics brz 2100 and I have the speaker ran at 1 ohm. Im hitting about 144db and its clear but I want to sell the amp so I figure stop using it until I can sell it so that I can get me STETSOM 2k5E or the sundown 2500! PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!

Hey guys, I'm in the process of building a system for my Infiniti G35 coupe and I'm trying to figure out which amp to get. Here's what I'm getting: Front components: Focal 165 K2P's, 100W RMS Rear Midbass/Midrange: Diamond Hex S6.0mx3 150W RMS, or Infinity Kappa 62.7i's, 75W RMS (Haven't decided if I want full range or not in the back) The amps I'm looking at are: Audison VRx 4.300 4x110W, $1300 Audison VRx 2.150 for the fronts, and run the rears off the HU 2x110W, $860 Audison LRx 4.300, 4x65W, $640 Focal 4x75W $620 Audison LRx 2.250 2x110W, $525 Diamond 6700.4 4x110W, $525 Focal 2x75W $420 I would love to get the Audison VRx 4.300 and be done with it, but it takes a lar…

Im wondering if the signal voltage will be sufficiently boosted by the http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27392_PAC-LD-10.html. Will this line driver take the place of a healthy 4.5 pre-out voltage that would be otherwise coming from a deck? I have heard the headphone jack of an ipod has 60 miliamps of current at full volume and im trying to boost that up to what would come out of a deck, effectively eliminating the deck. And if It can supply that voltage, can I max it out to ten volts and then run two Y splitters off of the output side of the line driver? giving me two sets of RCA's at 5 volts off of one ipod headphone jack? thanks all

I have two dual 1 ohm 18 BTLs fully loaded in a single chamber box...12 cubic feet after subs and port...with two kicker 2500.1...my gain was all the way down...my bass boost on the amps was half way up with the bass on my head unit at zero...when ever I turn my remote bass up the amps starts clipping...I had two MTX 8500 12s that hit louder on the local meter...I have a 275 amp alternator with another one on the way with two red top optimas all zero gauge wires power and ground wires...can someone help me out...I know these amps are better then this...

Anyone have experience or opinions on Memphis amps? I'm considering a 5 channel to run some comps and a sub. What are Memphis comparable to? Thanks

Pioneer GM-D8604 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63974_Pioneer-GM-D8604.html its $140. class d RMS Power @ 4 ohms 100 watts x 4 channels its around $100 cheaper than the next comparable amplifier that has RMS listed and is a decent name brand? Im aware that its class D so, thats part of why its cheaper. But other than that, im worried its bad for some reason because of how cheap it is?

Whats your guys opinions on it?..Do they really do rated?..I heard that someone was burpin them at .35 for comps and .7 for daily..Also do you guys think its a good bang for the buck $569 shipped new?

Let's see if you can figure this out, because I sure can't. Sorry about how long it is, I wanted to make sure I was thorough. Here's some background: -I drive a 2006 Nissan Sentra. -I have a Fi BL 12 powered by a SAE 1200d in the trunk. Sounds awesome... ----My car has the "premium" sound system installed from stock . This means that a small Rockford Fosgate amp in the trunk is powering the front speakers. It also means that the signal for everything but the sub is being double-amped. You would never know though, the highs are clear as they were before. (More on this later) On to the real problem.. I bought a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X794 to replace my stock head unit…

As the title says. Hmm, Anyone know anything on this Sony?

I am in the market for an efficient amp to power 3 12" punch HX2s...Can anyone recommend a good/sturdy efficient amp for within $325? I need at least 1500wRMS. Thanks!

Have an Audioque 1200d that stopped working on me and I'm now looking for a replacement for it. I had no issues with the amp (until recently when I started smoking) so I have no problem going with the Soundqubed 1200d if thats the best option. I was about to order it but figured I would ask here first. Anyways, it's being used to push my 12" ICON. Any suggestions on a solid amp that will produce the 1200-ish watts under $300 shipped is welcomed. Thanks!

ta92001. anyone messed with this amp? rated 3k @ 1 ohm, birthsheets supposedly read around 3.8k @ 14.4v true? good amps? looking to get one to be run @ 1 ohm on an 18" mt. also looking at getting the ta91002 (750w x 2 @ 1 ohm) and the ta7402 (i think thats it) discuss.

Alrite so which one is better for the price to power a 12" BTL. the Crunch GP3000d Pro or the US amps Xt4000D. I am on a budget so my options are pretty limited.

Hooking my brother up with my 15" Fi Q (basic) and its being powered by a RD 1000.1D doing 1000 at 1 ohm. Looking to get an amp kit for him and I can't remember whether or not to use 4 gauge power wire or higher? Also, the amp has 30Ax3 fuses for a total of 90 amps so I'm assuming I need a 90 amp fuse for the power cable? Reason I'm asking is because the knukonceptz kit I was looking at comes with a 120 amp fuse. Just a few simple questions.

i upgraded my alternator to an iraggi 260 amp .... i had an excessive amperage 300 amp in there but it was not charging correctly ... it was only charging at 13.9 and would get voltage drops into the low 10s ... i sent it back because i thought the alternator was bad ... i sent my stock one to dom to build me one to work for my car ... i just put it in and am getting similar readings ... this time i am getting around 13.8 (best) and drops to the low 10s .... i understand my t40001 draws 400+ amps of current but i dont think the voltage drop should be that bad (drops like that within 3-4 seconds) ... i am pretty sure the battery is good ... i only have the front battery in…

I have decided to get 2 10 inch FI SSD subs for my Toyo Camry. Im looking for a cost effective amp to push them close to there rms. I see it is rated 1000w rms but if I can save a few bucks and only get about 600w-800w to each I'd be happy

I'm wondering will a active head unit solve my problem. I have a jbl gto 1201.1 II and it doesnt have a subsonic filter. I probably going to get a Alpine 9887.

Would anyone on the forum have suggestions regarding fair market value for the following US Amps USA 2000x? I recently purchased a new set of Definitive home audio speakers and am looking to possibly trade rid my old set to a friend for the US Amps USA 2000x pictured below. I've been out of the car audio loop for quite some time and appreciate your feedback. Thanks-Chris

I'm looking for an amp around 2500 watts @ 2 ohms or .5 ohms (but I can buy new subs to match a 1 ohm load) I'm willing to buy used. What do you guys think I should be looking for?

Amp: 1200x1 at 2 ohms Subs: 2 DVC 4 ohms subs wired to 1 ohm I'm using a DMM to set the gains and my guestion is: Do I set the gains using the formula volts = SqRt of(1200 x 1) or volts = Sq Rt of (1200 x 2) The difference is 34.6 volts for the 1200 watts at 1 ohm and 48.9 volts for the 1200 watts at 2 ohms