Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Anyone have experience or opinions on Memphis amps? I'm considering a 5 channel to run some comps and a sub. What are Memphis comparable to? Thanks

Hi guys, my current amp is starting to give me some issues (well I think it is). It is an option audio OA1200 powering a Fi Q12 at 1ohm, and I have had it for about 5 years now but I don't think it's dealing too well with a 1ohm load (it has been running at 2ohms till now when I got the Q). When I initially hooked everything up I set the gains using my oscilloscope, the HU did not clip even at full volume, and the amp started clipping at ~1/3 turn using both a 60hz and 30hz sine wave. Anyway, a couple of weeks later I noticed the sub was getting hot, which should not really happen on 1200w,so i decided to inspect the system again. I checked my 4 channel amp, and that was …

I'm in the market for new alternators and I was talking to a guy about the Mechman 370a units. he was telling me they would never put out advertised amperage and they wouldn't even turn on at idle speed. I think its bs, but do any of you have experience with these alts?

Hey all. I'm at a loss right now. I'm preparing for a build replacing my subwoofer. I will be using around 2500 watts of bass plus 250 watts of highs. I'll have one battery, but I rarely play the system with the car off. Anyways... Nathan (from Excessive Amperage) seems like a great guy and super nice, but I'll be paying $25 more for 20A less. The Power Bastards alt is 220A and the Excessive alt is 200A. Any recommendations? Comments/experience on build quality? Both come with an overdrive pully and a one year warranty. Thanks.

I'm wondering will a active head unit solve my problem. I have a jbl gto 1201.1 II and it doesnt have a subsonic filter. I probably going to get a Alpine 9887.

Hey guys, I'm in the process of building a system for my Infiniti G35 coupe and I'm trying to figure out which amp to get. Here's what I'm getting: Front components: Focal 165 K2P's, 100W RMS Rear Midbass/Midrange: Diamond Hex S6.0mx3 150W RMS, or Infinity Kappa 62.7i's, 75W RMS (Haven't decided if I want full range or not in the back) The amps I'm looking at are: Audison VRx 4.300 4x110W, $1300 Audison VRx 2.150 for the fronts, and run the rears off the HU 2x110W, $860 Audison LRx 4.300, 4x65W, $640 Focal 4x75W $620 Audison LRx 2.250 2x110W, $525 Diamond 6700.4 4x110W, $525 Focal 2x75W $420 I would love to get the Audison VRx 4.300 and be done with it, but it takes a lar…

Would anyone on the forum have suggestions regarding fair market value for the following US Amps USA 2000x? I recently purchased a new set of Definitive home audio speakers and am looking to possibly trade rid my old set to a friend for the US Amps USA 2000x pictured below. I've been out of the car audio loop for quite some time and appreciate your feedback. Thanks-Chris

Hey guys, buying a new amp soon, past two used sundown amp purchases fell through so im just gonna go with one of these. My only question is which one of these would be better for what i am doing. I will not have the sa-12s for about a month to 2 months. I would like to buy the amp now. I currently have a jl w6v2. Which amp would work better to do this? i am leaning towards the 1200.1d because the sa-12s are rated for 600rms. I am planning to do as little electrical upgrades as possible also. But if it would be absolutely worth it i would do it for the 1700. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_23922_Hifonics_BRZ12001D.aspx or http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudi…

Pioneer GM-D8604 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63974_Pioneer-GM-D8604.html its $140. class d RMS Power @ 4 ohms 100 watts x 4 channels its around $100 cheaper than the next comparable amplifier that has RMS listed and is a decent name brand? Im aware that its class D so, thats part of why its cheaper. But other than that, im worried its bad for some reason because of how cheap it is?

I am tryin to figure out if i should install an isolator in my setup and have been reading a LOT of info about this and have came across a LOT of things that i have never read about before from others. I've read things like- Not using an isolator can hurt the starter by it receiving a superior CA load and may kill it quicker. Showing off with car off will kill starting battery. Now, i've been on Stinger's site and i gotta call them about some things because they got some products and descriptions that are just begging for answers! Such as their SRVG which shuts off power altogether in the rear to prevent front battery from dying.... really? How? And also, their 200A rela…

I have two dual 1 ohm 18 BTLs fully loaded in a single chamber box...12 cubic feet after subs and port...with two kicker 2500.1...my gain was all the way down...my bass boost on the amps was half way up with the bass on my head unit at zero...when ever I turn my remote bass up the amps starts clipping...I had two MTX 8500 12s that hit louder on the local meter...I have a 275 amp alternator with another one on the way with two red top optimas all zero gauge wires power and ground wires...can someone help me out...I know these amps are better then this...

I been trying to do some research on some 7-7.5 rms amps but not really making a ton of progress. What are some good amps that's within this power range with the exception of dc. i know b2 m1s and ns1 v2 are in the category but what are some others than im overlooking? i need two budget is $3k

ta92001. anyone messed with this amp? rated 3k @ 1 ohm, birthsheets supposedly read around 3.8k @ 14.4v true? good amps? looking to get one to be run @ 1 ohm on an 18" mt. also looking at getting the ta91002 (750w x 2 @ 1 ohm) and the ta7402 (i think thats it) discuss.

Have an Audioque 1200d that stopped working on me and I'm now looking for a replacement for it. I had no issues with the amp (until recently when I started smoking) so I have no problem going with the Soundqubed 1200d if thats the best option. I was about to order it but figured I would ask here first. Anyways, it's being used to push my 12" ICON. Any suggestions on a solid amp that will produce the 1200-ish watts under $300 shipped is welcomed. Thanks!

Amp: 1200x1 at 2 ohms Subs: 2 DVC 4 ohms subs wired to 1 ohm I'm using a DMM to set the gains and my guestion is: Do I set the gains using the formula volts = SqRt of(1200 x 1) or volts = Sq Rt of (1200 x 2) The difference is 34.6 volts for the 1200 watts at 1 ohm and 48.9 volts for the 1200 watts at 2 ohms

Well I just got my battery from somebody on here that was selling them and I have to say I am pretty sure its no longer usable. The terminals are pushed in a good two inches and the plastic housing around them is pretty badly cracked. I can see the stuff inside of it as well. Top Picture: Right Terminal: http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/4719/batteryrightterm.jpg Left Terminal: http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9920/batteryleftterm.jpg

saz 3000d vs IA40.1 give me your thoughts on a 14.4 @.5 ohm setup

Im wondering if the signal voltage will be sufficiently boosted by the http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27392_PAC-LD-10.html. Will this line driver take the place of a healthy 4.5 pre-out voltage that would be otherwise coming from a deck? I have heard the headphone jack of an ipod has 60 miliamps of current at full volume and im trying to boost that up to what would come out of a deck, effectively eliminating the deck. And if It can supply that voltage, can I max it out to ten volts and then run two Y splitters off of the output side of the line driver? giving me two sets of RCA's at 5 volts off of one ipod headphone jack? thanks all

So I've been researching ground connections, always trying to learn more about a subject, since I was upgrading some things its always a good time to refresh my memory. I've basically come across several ways suggested to make a good ground, and there are a few that stand out to me. 1) Using dielectric grease to seal moisture out of the connection area, with the idea that when you crank down on the nut to secure a ground lug to the chassis it will push this grease out of the way so the metal connects properly together and helps seal out moisture. 2) White lithium grease. I've seen this mentioned several times, but I truly feel it may be an outdated recommendation. …

Hey does anyone know anything or have an opinion about this amp

Just got one but how small are they really? It's 11-3/4 inches by 6-1/2 inches? Seems kinda small... Also, anyone have photos of their own collection?

So I've had the big 3 in my car for about a month and a half now everything was fine until this morning I opened my hood and one fitting was melted. It has 1 0gauge going to the battery and 2 4gauge going to starter and the other going to my fuse box. My car turns off as soon as I turn my AC on my car turns off. Also the 4 gauge going to the fuses had the insulation gone completely melted

i upgraded my alternator to an iraggi 260 amp .... i had an excessive amperage 300 amp in there but it was not charging correctly ... it was only charging at 13.9 and would get voltage drops into the low 10s ... i sent it back because i thought the alternator was bad ... i sent my stock one to dom to build me one to work for my car ... i just put it in and am getting similar readings ... this time i am getting around 13.8 (best) and drops to the low 10s .... i understand my t40001 draws 400+ amps of current but i dont think the voltage drop should be that bad (drops like that within 3-4 seconds) ... i am pretty sure the battery is good ... i only have the front battery in…

While sitting here thinking about how i keep reading about capacitor or battery topic.. this popped in my head. So, i am curious... With the new XS VCM, will this not only replace MLA but also capacitor use period? For those that don't know what an XS VCM is, let me briefly describe it. It is an add-on device for stock or aftermarket alternators that has an attached module that sits in your car. This module is set to any voltage in 0.1v increments up to 19.5v if your setup supports such voltage. When the VCM is used, whatever voltage is set, this voltage will NOT fluctuate...not fluctuate...not...ever(with slight exception below) In testing, it is shown that, for example,…

hey everyone. i came accross this amp in my friends basement and he let me keep it. its an Alphasonik MA-2055. doesnt have the regular speaker terminals. has all the different colored wires. has power and ground leads coming out of the amp. on amp it says: minimum continuous average power: -55w per channel (2chan). both drive into 4 ohms...? -110w mono mode into 4 or 8 ohms. -freq resp 20-20khz -THD <0.05% does anyone have ANY info on it? couldnt find anything on google... thanks! PICS!