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Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Discuss Head Units, Amplification, Processors, And All Electrical System Inquiries Here.

  1. I need to update my double din head unit and looking for some recommendations from experienced people. I have used Alpine iLX-207 which offered me 7 inches touch screen which was easy for me to access all features. The most great thing for me about this head unit is that I can easily manage the system via the screen or from the steering wheel to use Apple Car Play or Android Auto. But recently it stopped working and just showing the dark screen (as its very long I have not upgraded it). Now I am thinking of upgrading it rather than repairing. I have check out few reviews and got various recommendations from few people. I am impressed with this review: https://speake…

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    • 5 replies
    • 2.5k views
  2. Started by shizzzon,

    While sitting here thinking about how i keep reading about capacitor or battery topic.. this popped in my head. So, i am curious... With the new XS VCM, will this not only replace MLA but also capacitor use period? For those that don't know what an XS VCM is, let me briefly describe it. It is an add-on device for stock or aftermarket alternators that has an attached module that sits in your car. This module is set to any voltage in 0.1v increments up to 19.5v if your setup supports such voltage. When the VCM is used, whatever voltage is set, this voltage will NOT fluctuate...not fluctuate...not...ever(with slight exception below) In testing, it is shown that, for example,…

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    • 14 replies
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  3. Started by Doctor Q,

    Im buying 4 10" Pioneer Premiers Dual 2-ohms. They are rated at 350 RMS and 1000 Max each. Here is the link ==> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8631_Pioneer+Premier+TS-W1007D2.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle I want an amp that will give each sub around 200-250 watts a piece. No more than 250. And i would like the keep the price below $300 if possible but if you know something that would be worth it and is close to 300 go ahead and post. Also it has to be a Class D amp. Im going to order this all this week so i need to make my decision on my amp. Thanks guys.

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    • 26 replies
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  4. Hi guys, my current amp is starting to give me some issues (well I think it is). It is an option audio OA1200 powering a Fi Q12 at 1ohm, and I have had it for about 5 years now but I don't think it's dealing too well with a 1ohm load (it has been running at 2ohms till now when I got the Q). When I initially hooked everything up I set the gains using my oscilloscope, the HU did not clip even at full volume, and the amp started clipping at ~1/3 turn using both a 60hz and 30hz sine wave. Anyway, a couple of weeks later I noticed the sub was getting hot, which should not really happen on 1200w,so i decided to inspect the system again. I checked my 4 channel amp, and that was …

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    • 14 replies
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  5. Started by HellRzR,

    saz 3000d vs IA40.1 give me your thoughts on a 14.4 @.5 ohm setup

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    • 9 replies
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  6. Yesterday we put the stereo in my cousin's Silverado. We had a remote wire problem and need to pull the HU out today. We noticed last night that his dome lights won't turn off now, even after pulling the key and shutting the doors for a while. It's never done this before until now, is there any chance fixing the remote wire will solve this problem?? Thanks

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    • 17 replies
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    • 1 follower
  7. Started by natedizzle,

    i finally got my subs hook up and my monoblock going....so i know most of you have your gains set at a quarter and so thats what i did at FIRST. The dmm gain settings way wasnt working for some reason it kept reading the same numbers with the music going and the music off. Anyways i left the gains at a quarter for now and listened to it and i couldnt even feel the subs at high volume so i turned it up to half just to see the difference and then right as you get to half this HUGE rumbling comes from my subs and its constant even if the music is on pause...and this did happen but not as loud when i had my other amp at 4ohms.can someone pls help me with this?? here was a cou…

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    • 29 replies
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  8. I was just wondering if 4 of these batteries will be good for a car audio system. 2,000 watts RMS? This is the only best battery that I can fine in my own town. I can't get XS Power or anything like that. They do sell Kinetik at this one place but they are marked up 50% higher then SonicElectronix & I don't want to mail order any car batteries. There Shuriken batteries at another store too. there marked up high like the Kinetik. I like to buy them in store, If anything gose wrong with them. I can just drive to the store & return it. These Nautilus AGM Deep Cycle batteries are in stock ready to buy. Motomaster Nautilus AGM Deep Cycle 12 volt Battery C$259.99 Brand …

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  9. Started by Infinite913,

    I have two JL audio 1000/1 V@ that I want to put on my FI BTL 18" dual 2 but I want to be safe cause I use it for daily.... does anyone know about these amps to know how I should tune and how I should strap or run each amp to each coil. Right now I have a hifonics brz 2100 and I have the speaker ran at 1 ohm. Im hitting about 144db and its clear but I want to sell the amp so I figure stop using it until I can sell it so that I can get me STETSOM 2k5E or the sundown 2500! PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!

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    • 17 replies
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  10. Started by ABXX49,

    Could get a Sundown 125.2 and bridge it. Not 600watts, but would work fine.

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    • 20 replies
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  11. Started by Bizzy Beats,

    I have a rockford fosgate t1500-1bdcp amp and a ascendant havoc sub wired to 1 ohm. My amp will get very hot even when the music is very quiet. Also when i turn up the volume loud my sub will make a popping sound. The gain is turned all the way down, and i also have a stock alternator. Any help will be appreciated.

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    • 6 replies
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  12. Started by dozure,

    How do I know what to set my SSF to? The Fs of my sub is 36.4Hz Box is 2 cubes tuned to 38Hz FS of my truck is 37Hz I can give you any T/S params you need, or you can get them from here: http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/subwo...ta_T9512-44.pdf (PDF file, 693KB) A direct answer of what to set it to is fine, but I would like to know how to calculate it, or at least a "rule of thumb" to go by when setting the cutoff frequency.

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    • 4 replies
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  13. Hey guys, buying a new amp soon, past two used sundown amp purchases fell through so im just gonna go with one of these. My only question is which one of these would be better for what i am doing. I will not have the sa-12s for about a month to 2 months. I would like to buy the amp now. I currently have a jl w6v2. Which amp would work better to do this? i am leaning towards the 1200.1d because the sa-12s are rated for 600rms. I am planning to do as little electrical upgrades as possible also. But if it would be absolutely worth it i would do it for the 1700. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_23922_Hifonics_BRZ12001D.aspx or http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudi…

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    • 25 replies
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  14. Started by OuTLaWeD,

    I'm in the market for new alternators and I was talking to a guy about the Mechman 370a units. he was telling me they would never put out advertised amperage and they wouldn't even turn on at idle speed. I think its bs, but do any of you have experience with these alts?

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    • 23 replies
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  15. Started by jFreezy,

    Sup guys quick question, What do you think would be the best amp to accommodate a sundown audio sa8. The sub would be in a ported enclosure around .8 cubic ft tuned about 31-32 hz. I want use for daily driver not spl. I know it's rated at 400rms but do you guys think it can handle more? For amps I like rf kicker jl I've owned all three, never had problems. It's just very hard to choose the correct amp. Usually I have the same brand for both sub and aml but sundown doesn't have a amp around 400rms (at least not in my price range) I mean I wouldn't wanna spend the extra dollars for something like sae1000. Sure there will be headroom but I don't plan on upgrading this is g…

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    • 22 replies
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  16. Started by shizzzon,

    I am tryin to figure out if i should install an isolator in my setup and have been reading a LOT of info about this and have came across a LOT of things that i have never read about before from others. I've read things like- Not using an isolator can hurt the starter by it receiving a superior CA load and may kill it quicker. Showing off with car off will kill starting battery. Now, i've been on Stinger's site and i gotta call them about some things because they got some products and descriptions that are just begging for answers! Such as their SRVG which shuts off power altogether in the rear to prevent front battery from dying.... really? How? And also, their 200A rela…

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    • 6 replies
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  17. Started by Chevy350TPI,

    http://www.woot.com/woot_detail.aspx I ordered two. Even if I don't use one / don't like it ... I'll still make a profit selling it. Seems like a heck of a deal to me, though.

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    • 21 replies
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    • 1 follower
  18. I'm looking for a new Alpine and I'm considering the CDA-9885 for $280 or the CDA-9887 for $330. $50 more get's me the Imprint Sound and 24bit Dac. What's everyone's opinion on the Imprint technology? And what improves when going from a 1bit DAC to a 24bit DAC?

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    • 8 replies
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  19. Started by superman_69,

    Okay fellas. I need some help with this one cause i'm finally at the point i have no clue what to do. I have an 03 Ford Taurus. Im running two RE SX 12D2's on two Lunar L1500's and Rockford Fosgate Power 4004. (If you wanna see my amps heres the link: http://www.lunaramplifiers.com/product_3_2.html) Ive heard all about the big 3 upgrade and i wanted to do it. But, the damn power wire runs through the front fuse box as well as the alternator wire. Making it virtually impossible to do it unless someone can help me with that. Seeing as how i was faced with that dilema, my problem arises. I've read and researched bats and caps and my original setup had a 800 Kinetik in the …

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    • 26 replies
    • 2.5k views
    • 1 follower
  20. Started by PapaGeno21,

    I have an 05 Outback. Looking at a bunch of options. Best option seems to be Excessive Amperage who can do a 200A for 385. Anything over 200 supposedly will slip due to horrible belt wrap, and I only have a 5 rib belt. Mechman, Singer, Ohio Gen, and DC power are more cash for less ALT than the EA. So its either EA or possibly this? Stumbled across this. http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Fitzall-220 Anyone heard or used one? Seems to fit WAY more than just my car. Which worry's me as far as how "drop in" it really is.

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    • 14 replies
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  21. Ummm. I redid my big three. I was making a tutorial for YouTube.I added, didn't replace the original wires. In 1/0 i did alt positive to battery positive, battery negative to chassis, battery negative to engine block, engine block to chassis i guess its more of a big four. And battery is kinetik 800. And for a couple of days it was alright. But then I noticed it was having problems turning on, it would crank an extra 2 times or so. Now it doesn't start without me getting a battery charger. Voltage says 10.7 but once I charge it goes as high as 15.8 ? And then it starts up fine. I did some research, I'm still researching... Some forums in hondas, people say its the eld (…

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    • 7 replies
    • 2.5k views
  22. Started by Lucky 76,

    For some reason the fuse on my sundown 125.2 amplifier keeps popping. I do not even get to turn the car on before they pop. Once I go to insert one fuse it pops directly on contact. Can this be because all 3 fuses have to be connected without power going to them (i know that sounds stupid because of the whole current draw thing but I though I would just throw it out there). The fuse connected 18" away from the amp does not pop but the one connected to the 125.2 does. This leads me to believe that the problem lies somewhere else down the line. I checked the power and ground and they are not touching, they are also inputed correctly. The ground is also secured firmly. No …

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    • 26 replies
    • 2.5k views
  23. Started by slidestarr,

    I recently sold my amp, m3a, looking for a new amp under $1000 and wanting brand new. The amps I am considering are a M3b and SAZ3500D V.2 but not sure why I would pick one over the other. From comparing the older models it seems the saz3500d v.1 produced more watts than the M3A so is the M3b comparable to the SAZ3500v.2? This amp will be powering a BTL N2 and will be wired down for .5 ohm on a 12volt system. Need some advise

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    • 7 replies
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  24. Started by Lord Baccus,

    i did a test to see which amp was harder hitting i ran the Crossfire Vr 1000d @ 2ohm through my PaP 15" MOAB = 500watts i ran the PPi Dcx 1000d @ 2ohm through my PaP 15" MOAB = 500watts i set the gain on both amps @ 1/2 or center or Noon... all settings on HU were left as Daily, subs crossed to 100Hz & down / 0gain or flat the Crossfire was weak to say the least... had to crank the HU to 25 to get any thing to shake the PPi on the other hand was Dominant as i only got to 8 on the HU and noticed the stuff on my walls in my guradge was shaking @ 12 on the HU the bass was well above pounding... the Crossfire Vr 1000d got guess ill put it in my Girlfriends truck on a …

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    • 3 replies
    • 2.5k views
  25. Started by billystorms24,

    US amps BASS MEKANIK VLS-1 ,... has anybody ever used one or know if this is worth getting?

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    • 10 replies
    • 2.5k views

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