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I have heard a lot about welding supply and coppercableman on e-bay, what about wire and supply or electron beam (EB-flex) wire? Also I see that 1/0 welding wire in general is rated for 350 amps at 50 feet while 2/0 is rated for 400 amps at 50 feet. I don't expect more than a 20 foot run at most from my front to back battery so what size cable would you guys recommend for a Crescendo BC3500d at one ohm with a 300 amp external fuse rating? Lastly I notice there is an ultraflex cable available from welding supply (as well as directwireusa.com) that claims to contain 4x the strand count of the standard wire yet the amperage ratings are the same?
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http://arawndark.netfirms.com/ cool link I have to the internals of amplifers. Daddy likes!!!!
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any know if this puts out rated power has to 80amp fuses so 1 would think it would put out rated but just want to make sure thans for the help .will be running off my stock batt with ho 170amp alt and knu 1/0 with big 3
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Ok, I just got this amp from a friend, I was unaware I needed a 300 amp fuse for it, but I hooked it up anyway without one. It works fine without the fuse, but Kicker plainly states it needs the 300 amp fuse. So, I go to a local shop and buy the Kicker fuse holder and a 250 amp anl fuse, they did not have 300 amp fuses so I figured 250 was better than nothing. Also, Kicker recommends 1 gauge minimum, I have 2 gauge power and ground in the car now, I plan to upgrade ALL wire to 1 gauge, but my question is, will the 2 guage hurt the amp while I am scrounging money for wire? I noticed that the right side of the amp gets hot, the Kx lines are supposed to have fans in them so …
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I am in the market for an efficient amp to power 3 12" punch HX2s...Can anyone recommend a good/sturdy efficient amp for within $325? I need at least 1500wRMS. Thanks!
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So I've had the big 3 in my car for about a month and a half now everything was fine until this morning I opened my hood and one fitting was melted. It has 1 0gauge going to the battery and 2 4gauge going to starter and the other going to my fuse box. My car turns off as soon as I turn my AC on my car turns off. Also the 4 gauge going to the fuses had the insulation gone completely melted
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I have a 12'' dc lvl 4 in a box; 2 cf tuned to 30 hz. I have an audiocontrol epicenter which will be replicating fast-paced bass down to the subwoofer level (rock music). Would it be worth it to run the sub at 4 ohms as opposed to 1 ohm? 1 ohm would of course be cheaper, but would I notice much of a difference (considering the bass will be rather fast-paced) if I bought a 4 ohm 1000w amp? what amp would you guys recommend? I know a DC sub isn't the best choice for SQ, but I already have it frontstage is a pair of hertz mlk 165's powered by a ZED kronos alpine 9887 hu.
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okay, heres the score: i have two RE SX 12D2's i purchased. I wanna power them with 2 Sundown Audio 1500's. I have a stock alternator and it pushes about 160 amps. ive searched for another alt but they dont have one for my vehicle. I was told to purchase a seperate battery but i know its just another load on the alternatorso my question is would it be better to purchase one big capacitor, (i.e. a 10 or 20 farad) or just purchase another battery? thanx
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Plan on using the Hifonics, rated at 750w rms for my SSD 12" coming in soon but I was thinking about a JL 500/1 which is a class D versus A/B on the Hifonics. Is $150 a good deal for a used JL 500/1? I would think the JL offers a clean 500w and I've read the Hifonics are overrated. Which one would you guys go for? Thanks! Sunny
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I just got my 12" H2 but I have spent to much funds lately. I still have to get my components and an amp for the components. I really wanted to get a 2500 amp but its not going to happen for now. So do you think I will be missing out a lot by getting a 1200 amp? I will be running it in a 1.5 cu ft sealed enclosure.
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I'm looking for an amp around 2500 watts @ 2 ohms or .5 ohms (but I can buy new subs to match a 1 ohm load) I'm willing to buy used. What do you guys think I should be looking for?
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I have read on a few websites the pro's and con's of D class and Class AB, right now I have a US amps md42, and I am looking to buy a new high amp and really want to try a D class. Anybody out there have any real world experience or advice? BTW, I would like between 150 and 225 watts per channel @ 4 ohms. Looking for a 4 channel. Thanks for any help.
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I will be running a 15" SI Mag in a 3.5cuft box tuned to 30hz and should be running a set of Hybrid Audio Technology Clarus C61-2 components. I'm trying to achieve a nice SQ oriented set-up that can still deliver a nice little kick. I have it narrowed to either: The Audison LRX 1.400 for the Mag and the Audison LRX 2.250 for the components. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4224 http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4287 Or The Focal FP1.800 for the Mag and the Focal FP2.150 for the components. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4481 http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4480 Can anyone help…
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Alrite so which one is better for the price to power a 12" BTL. the Crunch GP3000d Pro or the US amps Xt4000D. I am on a budget so my options are pretty limited.
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i want to run my orion 2500d to .5ohms. i want to know what it will take to run that low i have two red tops and 160alt. two 15 inch Arsenals. shouldn that work
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Well I just got my battery from somebody on here that was selling them and I have to say I am pretty sure its no longer usable. The terminals are pushed in a good two inches and the plastic housing around them is pretty badly cracked. I can see the stuff inside of it as well. Top Picture: Right Terminal: http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/4719/batteryrightterm.jpg Left Terminal: http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9920/batteryleftterm.jpg
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Sorry, the topic may be a little vague. I've recently found myself researching amplifiers as I may be replacing my zapco c2k 9.0xd amp shortly. I have 2 12" dvc subs with 1ohm per coil, and they handle 1800wRMS/ea. they're situated in a 4.2cu/ft box tuned to 30hz. The zapco puts out around 2200wRMS and I was looking for something a little closer to the subs rated input or over. So I've been working on a spreadsheet to compare different amps to try and discern a value. This task has been pretty difficult, most of the amps I'm looking at seem to be extremely similar or clones of one another? My understanding is that an "OEM" would reach out with a chinese or korean manufac…
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Anyone have experience or opinions on Memphis amps? I'm considering a 5 channel to run some comps and a sub. What are Memphis comparable to? Thanks
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hey guys, just wondering if anyone knows (or heard) of soundstream making good amps. im debating buying either a soundstream pca2000d or a kicker zx1500 amp. they both push 1500rms when wired at 2 ohms. naturally i would just go for the kicker because no one seems to have anything bad to say about them and are under rated, i just dont like the fact that the kicker can't wire down to one ohm if i decide i want more power. please lemme know if you heard anything bad or good about soundstream...thx-phil
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Well i think i will need a new amp kit, I am using a cheap 4ga ( American accessories ). But I just upgraded amps. I will be running an AudioQue 1200d, and Kicker 350.4 with a kinetik HC 800 in the trunk. I am leaning towards a Kicker amp kit, and a knu concepts. Will 4ga be enough?
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I needs some help with my setup, i have a fi audio sp4 15" fully loaded 1 ohm sub, i have it powered by a hifonics colossus amp i cannot even bridge the amp, but i cant get the amp turnt up at all without it clipping im using the bass knob for it and i can get it up about a quarter of the way before it starts clipping. I'm running all 0 gauge wire and i have a 350 amp alternator why is the amp clipping so bad?? im never dropping below 14 volts and it still clipping really bad, any ideas why the amp is clipping so bad??
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I currently have a Pioneer DEH-7800MP and am very happy with it except for the fact that I would like a DVD player/flip screen. I'm trying to find something with 3 preouts, some crossover abilities, and fairly inexpensive. The head unit has to be single din and a flip screen because my dash would have be cut for a full din. The Clarion looks decent but I can't find much info on it other than really general stuff. Ebay, Crutchfield, and other online sites have it for around $350 shipped and that's the price range I'm looking for. I'm not sure if I will be happy with less crossover abilities but not sure if I really need them either. My current 4 channel is a JL 300/4 runni…
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Hey all, I was just wondering how nice this amp compares against something like a TRU amp? I can get this for probably around the same price as a t-4.65. Also, if anyone can throw out some other high end 4 channel amps that would be greatly appreciated. thanks :ph34r:
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recently pruchased 3 sets up soundqubed pq mids looking for an amp that can power them much like everyone I am on a budget but i do not wish to sacrifice quality for price . Just having a hard time finding an amp that can fit these prequisites. any help is appreciated
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So, i had my meter mounted on the left side of the pocket below the HU using velcro. well, that was late last year (cool weather), and now... Hot Weather = the glue/tape on the back of the Velcro melting. so, heres a few pics of my dash. there is nowhere to mount it that i can see. you can see where the trim piece around the pocket is a separate piecs. i have to take that off when i need to get to my HU. so i cant mount it there. ANY opinions wanted. thanks!
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