Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Well I just got my battery from somebody on here that was selling them and I have to say I am pretty sure its no longer usable. The terminals are pushed in a good two inches and the plastic housing around them is pretty badly cracked. I can see the stuff inside of it as well. Top Picture: Right Terminal: http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/4719/batteryrightterm.jpg Left Terminal: http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9920/batteryleftterm.jpg

Ok guys I have a 2010 tahoe with my stock alt and a DC 270 xp alt. They are both on a bracket, but what I really want to know is how to run my second alt at 18v. PLEASE be very detailed because I did not put the alt in and have very little experience with this sort of thing. Thanks ahead of time.

Look at this beast...... getting a quote from morgan @ exile tommorrow might to sell all my other sub amps i own to get it but it looks super bad just thought id share.... Let me know what ya think....Enjoy! Limited run Exile x5 5,000W x 2 at 1ohm; [10KW strapped] Dual 1/0 Gauge Inputs Dual Huge Power Supplies Dimensions: 30" L x 11.2" W x 2.7" H 35 lbs Total Weight here is a pic of the guts.......... (its my avatar) here is link to the beast... Exile x5

Anyone have experience or opinions on Memphis amps? I'm considering a 5 channel to run some comps and a sub. What are Memphis comparable to? Thanks

http://arawndark.netfirms.com/ cool link I have to the internals of amplifers. Daddy likes!!!!

Has anyone had experience with these? http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=prod3590222 I believe there 100ah. Right now the plan is two xcons, 3600W, 300W for front and not sure on the rear yet(my son is back there a lot) 220 amp alt, big three in 1/0.

I will be running a 15" SI Mag in a 3.5cuft box tuned to 30hz and should be running a set of Hybrid Audio Technology Clarus C61-2 components. I'm trying to achieve a nice SQ oriented set-up that can still deliver a nice little kick. I have it narrowed to either: The Audison LRX 1.400 for the Mag and the Audison LRX 2.250 for the components. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4224 http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4287 Or The Focal FP1.800 for the Mag and the Focal FP2.150 for the components. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4481 http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4480 Can anyone help…

Have an Audioque 1200d that stopped working on me and I'm now looking for a replacement for it. I had no issues with the amp (until recently when I started smoking) so I have no problem going with the Soundqubed 1200d if thats the best option. I was about to order it but figured I would ask here first. Anyways, it's being used to push my 12" ICON. Any suggestions on a solid amp that will produce the 1200-ish watts under $300 shipped is welcomed. Thanks!

So I've had the big 3 in my car for about a month and a half now everything was fine until this morning I opened my hood and one fitting was melted. It has 1 0gauge going to the battery and 2 4gauge going to starter and the other going to my fuse box. My car turns off as soon as I turn my AC on my car turns off. Also the 4 gauge going to the fuses had the insulation gone completely melted

Please someone correct me if i am wrong, i am going to strap my Sundown Audio 3500Ds and this will be my first time strapping amps, so i need to see if i am thinking correctly. The Master amp gets the input from the head-unit and a mono RCA from "BR Out" connected. The Slave amp ONLY gets "BR In" connected from the Master amp, leave the Gain and other Filters on the Slave amp set to 0. Each amp gets its own remote wire coming from the head-unit. Each amp gets its own Power and Ground. Connect NEG terminals of both amps together using 8AWG wires Wire my subs like so; Then take the POS wire from my sub and put it in the Master amps (far left) positive terminal, then take t…

I'm getting ready to help a friend out with adding an aftermarket sub and amp to her 2008 Ford Edge. She is keepint the stock H/U. She bought a Stinger Line Output Converter (SLOCII). It a two channel LOC and I'm installing it into a Zed Minilith. Now the Minilith requires that all four input channels have RCA connected to get full signal (6db less for each RCA that is not plugged in I believe). The Stinger converter has five connectors 2 each for + - and a ground. I'm installing an Alpine Type S 2+2ohm to the Amp. Here is my question... I cannot just plug in the factory harness to the Stinger unit (It has 2 channels and all I need is one). How do I connect this sucker? …

I plan on buying an active compatible HU, but was wondering how setting crossover points on an HU works? If I am using external amplifiers, with crossover settings, do the settings on the HU ignore those, and just use the settings programed in the HU? Or would I have to set crossover settings on the amp which are equal to those on the HU? Specifically I will be running a US Amps AX-5600. Help is much appreciated. This will be my first active setup.

if we bridge a stereo amp does the impedance of the amp change? does the amp being bridged change the final impedance to the subs? as an example would 2 4ohm SVC subs wired in parallel be seen as a 1ohm load by a bridged amp?

Well i think i will need a new amp kit, I am using a cheap 4ga ( American accessories ). But I just upgraded amps. I will be running an AudioQue 1200d, and Kicker 350.4 with a kinetik HC 800 in the trunk. I am leaning towards a Kicker amp kit, and a knu concepts. Will 4ga be enough?

I have an older 4 channel class AB amplifier that was made by Dragster Audio Art. Amplifier goes straight into protect. I asked Chris at dB-r a couple years ago and he said more than likely it was bad output fets. Chris does not work on older amplifiers like this anymore. I am looking for some feedback on Ampmedics more than anything as we know what kinda quality Mr. Mantz is known for. Here is a couple board shots of the amplifer. It is actually a great amplifier and was solidly built in the EU (European Union).

Ok, I just got this amp from a friend, I was unaware I needed a 300 amp fuse for it, but I hooked it up anyway without one. It works fine without the fuse, but Kicker plainly states it needs the 300 amp fuse. So, I go to a local shop and buy the Kicker fuse holder and a 250 amp anl fuse, they did not have 300 amp fuses so I figured 250 was better than nothing. Also, Kicker recommends 1 gauge minimum, I have 2 gauge power and ground in the car now, I plan to upgrade ALL wire to 1 gauge, but my question is, will the 2 guage hurt the amp while I am scrounging money for wire? I noticed that the right side of the amp gets hot, the Kx lines are supposed to have fans in them so …

Alrite so which one is better for the price to power a 12" BTL. the Crunch GP3000d Pro or the US amps Xt4000D. I am on a budget so my options are pretty limited.

Plan on using the Hifonics, rated at 750w rms for my SSD 12" coming in soon but I was thinking about a JL 500/1 which is a class D versus A/B on the Hifonics. Is $150 a good deal for a used JL 500/1? I would think the JL offers a clean 500w and I've read the Hifonics are overrated. Which one would you guys go for? Thanks! Sunny

What is this thing worth in good shape used? Guy locally offered to trade me my Soundstream XXX4000d for one. Im just gonna turn around and sell it if its worth much.

I have heard a lot about welding supply and coppercableman on e-bay, what about wire and supply or electron beam (EB-flex) wire? Also I see that 1/0 welding wire in general is rated for 350 amps at 50 feet while 2/0 is rated for 400 amps at 50 feet. I don't expect more than a 20 foot run at most from my front to back battery so what size cable would you guys recommend for a Crescendo BC3500d at one ohm with a 300 amp external fuse rating? Lastly I notice there is an ultraflex cable available from welding supply (as well as directwireusa.com) that claims to contain 4x the strand count of the standard wire yet the amperage ratings are the same?

So, i had my meter mounted on the left side of the pocket below the HU using velcro. well, that was late last year (cool weather), and now... Hot Weather = the glue/tape on the back of the Velcro melting. so, heres a few pics of my dash. there is nowhere to mount it that i can see. you can see where the trim piece around the pocket is a separate piecs. i have to take that off when i need to get to my HU. so i cant mount it there. ANY opinions wanted. thanks!

Hey all, I was just wondering how nice this amp compares against something like a TRU amp? I can get this for probably around the same price as a t-4.65. Also, if anyone can throw out some other high end 4 channel amps that would be greatly appreciated. thanks :ph34r:

As the title says. Hmm, Anyone know anything on this Sony?

any know if this puts out rated power has to 80amp fuses so 1 would think it would put out rated but just want to make sure thans for the help .will be running off my stock batt with ho 170amp alt and knu 1/0 with big 3

I have read on a few websites the pro's and con's of D class and Class AB, right now I have a US amps md42, and I am looking to buy a new high amp and really want to try a D class. Anybody out there have any real world experience or advice? BTW, I would like between 150 and 225 watts per channel @ 4 ohms. Looking for a 4 channel. Thanks for any help.