Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I'm getting ready to help a friend out with adding an aftermarket sub and amp to her 2008 Ford Edge. She is keepint the stock H/U. She bought a Stinger Line Output Converter (SLOCII). It a two channel LOC and I'm installing it into a Zed Minilith. Now the Minilith requires that all four input channels have RCA connected to get full signal (6db less for each RCA that is not plugged in I believe). The Stinger converter has five connectors 2 each for + - and a ground. I'm installing an Alpine Type S 2+2ohm to the Amp. Here is my question... I cannot just plug in the factory harness to the Stinger unit (It has 2 channels and all I need is one). How do I connect this sucker? …

Whats going on guys, I'm facing a little dilemma. About a month ago I ordered two SSA Xcon 12's, I was planning on running them on my Audiopipe APCL3000 monoblock, but from what I hear these things are comfortable at a little above their rated power handling (1750 rms each), so I decided that I was going to only used the Audiopipe 3000 to break the subs in, then I will be upgrading to a bigger amp (maybe a 4000-5000 watt monoblock). I ordered my subs at DVC 2ohm so that I could wire them both in series up to 4ohm, then wire the subs together in parallel to give my Audiopipe amp a 2 ohm load, because that's where its stable and makes its power at. But now I can't find an…

Got my temporary ap1500d in the mail and installed. Set the gains via voltmeter, which I know is not the best method but thats what I have currently. Also tried confirming with my ear. Have 0 to 4 gauge reducers both put in, and included a picture of everything. Wired at 2ohms, voltage doesn't drop at ALL before protection light kicks in. The old amp would drop the voltage into the 12s. Gain is not even a 4th of the way up. With the new amp, its not as loud as it was nor is there as much flex as there was with my mtx7801d. Did I do something wrong? I feel this amp should be "putting out" better than what it is.

Well my question is how stable are these amps and has anybody used any cactus amps?

So I finished installing my 2 12" GCONS/Kicker ZX1000.1/LC2i/DC-Creations Sealed Enclosure into my 2012 GLI and I have a couple of questions for some of you more experienced guys. My car had a factory subwoofer (fender audio system) so I tapped into the subwoofer speaker wires for the line-out signal. The low frequency bass sounds GREAT but the higher frequencies are weak, almost like they're dropping off. Since the factory subwoofer was hitting all these higher bass notes before I disconnected it, the factory head unit/amp MUST be sending the full range signal back to the input of the LC2i, no? I can't figure out why I'm not hitting the full range of bass. Current Set…

just wondering if this is a good entry level amp? seems cool to have all speakers running of 1 amp but i dont know squat so tell me how it is

I have: mechman 270 amp 2 kinetik hc2000s 0 gauge knuknoceptz with big three -1 hifonics brz1200 (subs) rockford prime (highs) I installed the mechman alternator it said in the instructions to NOT ground to the body as it will cause problems so I skipped this step. My question is do I need to ground the battery in the back if the one up front is not grounded to the frame? I have ran the batteries in parallel using 0 gauge on the - terminals amd + terminals so is this step really necessary? My next question is using a distribution block. I have a 0 gauge distribution block that splits into two 4 gauge terminals. I have my hifonics grounded to the frame with 0 gaug…

Is it possible to wire four 4 ohm dvc subs to a 2 channel amp, with each channel seeing 2 ohms? I have them running at four ohms, but can you use series and parallel wiring to create this load? If I set each sub in parallel wiring (+ to + and - to -, right?)and then run the - from one channel to one sub, the positive from that channel to the other sub, and a wire connecting the other + and - terminals from sub to sub, would this do it? Here's what I'm talking about. (pic may not work) Just hooked up these subs, but they sound distorted and just terrible, will they sound better after they break in, or just lower/louder? Replaced 4 RF P1 12's with 4 infinity 1252w's, a…

so i recently bought 2 sundown sa 12's, 1 saz 1500d, a box that the subs came in tuned to 34 with about 3 cubes, and a spare battery plus 2 gauge wiring all around ( i think) for $1000 bucks. i traded the battery for a new box from a friend of a friend thats 4.5 cubes and tuned to 28. i also bought a new kenwood deck with the setting to turn down bass in your car ( cant think of the term for it atm) to go with these subs. when we first hooked them up we had them on 35 which is max for the deck and it slammed. but since then ive turned them up to 35 on the song put on by jeezy and at the lowest note my subs shut off entirely (including music) for a sec or 2 and i turned it…

So something has gone wrong with my system and I am not sure exactly what it is... My setup is... -12" Icon -AQ 1200d; installed with 1/0 gauge wire and then 12 gauge for the speaker wire. -MY car is a 2000 Jetta VR6 and the alternator is stock.. it's either 90a or 120a but i'm not sure -I am using the AQ gain knob and I have a stinger volt meter.. I had everything installed at a local shop and it was VERY LOUD.. it was so loud that I was afraid to even push it for the little time it was working right, so I don't think any problems have been caused by listening to it too loud. About 6 days after it was installed I was driving around and I noticed on one song the bass was …

I have an old KENWOOD kdc138 in my Mazda Tribute currently .. It only has one pre-out which the manual says the pre-out is for the rear/sub signal out .. Currently I have a mono block that is receiving the signal from the pre-out. What I want to do is add an external amp for the front and rear with still keeping my mono block. How can I do this all with only one pre-out? Another question is what is the difference between the front signal and rear signal pre-outs on a receiver that has multiple pre-outs?

Figured id pass this along i think ill be getting some at this price who wouldn't. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11831_...es+UF020BL.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11832_...res+UF020R.html

Hey all, I was just wondering how nice this amp compares against something like a TRU amp? I can get this for probably around the same price as a t-4.65. Also, if anyone can throw out some other high end 4 channel amps that would be greatly appreciated. thanks :ph34r:

So I have Audison Voce tweeters, mid range & mid bass on my challenger & need help choosing a 6 channel amp & also have audison bit one on vehcile. Was looking at the arc audio xdi 1200.6 or mosconi one 6ch series but the arc audio has more wattage & its cheaper.

A buddy of mine has an Autotek Super Sport 1500.1. He is willing to sell it to me, but hasn't named a price yet. Are these amps good quality? Will it be too much for a single 15" FI BL? and are they overrated?

since i put in my DC 270XP the charging voltage likes to sit high at 15.0-15.3. how can i adjust the voltage or lower it to around 14.5-14.8?

With CCA power wire becoming more popular due to cost, it may be benefical to do some research on the brand your buying as there are plenty of companies trying to sell total crap! Check out the pic below from KnuKonceptz and check out the tru differences.

I currently have a Pioneer DEH-7800MP and am very happy with it except for the fact that I would like a DVD player/flip screen. I'm trying to find something with 3 preouts, some crossover abilities, and fairly inexpensive. The head unit has to be single din and a flip screen because my dash would have be cut for a full din. The Clarion looks decent but I can't find much info on it other than really general stuff. Ebay, Crutchfield, and other online sites have it for around $350 shipped and that's the price range I'm looking for. I'm not sure if I will be happy with less crossover abilities but not sure if I really need them either. My current 4 channel is a JL 300/4 runni…

so i was not going to buy a head unit in the first place but now that im thinking i can probably use the features for the eq... i have been looking at the clarion vz300 and that appeals to me, but also the jensen vm9224 i dont know much about jensen and im not sure if they are a reliable brand, so some help here would be nice.. in fact i wouldnt mind suggestions for other headunits as long as they are under 250

Being an impulsive person- I done jumped off and ordered a dual alt bracket. Figuring 2 270 amp alts would be plenty for my setup. I was thinking, just run everything parallel, and rock on. But now I am reading that it isn't that simple. My Avalanche's alt is pcm controlled. Can I just tie in another pigtail for the 2nd alt? And have both alts charge both of my batteries? Current Parts- 1 270a Alt (would like to run 2) 2 kinetik 1800's 1 BC 5500 (will prolly be at .5 when said and done, hence wanting 500 amps on tap) 1 S800.4

I need to run a mtx 7514-04. what would be the cheapest thing possible? Well i dont even need to give it full power. all i need to do is make it bump good. but i don't know what kind of watttage it would need to make it sound good (givin that is an vague word anyways). just the cheapest way to run it i guess, thank you.

i just got a new box built for my subs ( 2 12 inch dual 2 ohm L5 kickers in a 6.5-7 cube box tuned to 35 htz). i picked it up from the guy and set my amp at 25 htz with the gain set at about half way from what i can see on the dial. first, i must say it sounded amazing! i was running a 3.3 cube box that was kinda jimmy rigged together by the guy i bought them from so this is exquisite great sound, good range and a ton of sound pressure. if anyone needs a box built in central to eastern washington/ central idaho let me know i'll get you in contact with triticum audio. ok, so the guy that built my box also installed the subs and wired in at a 4 ohm load. about a week afte…

All together there will be 5 105ah battarys on a buss bar I noticed they have a cheaper version of the one iv been recommended just wondering what makes this so special an is it worth the extra $100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045F3SGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9p1Tyb2YMB2WY?tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20

Yo guyz I have a budget of about 200$ I need a good head unit with high and low pass crossovers for running active. Ive been checking out the ken wood kdc-x996. It's just a hair out of my budget but seems nice. Any other good units like this?

I'm new to the forums... so hello alls... here is my situation... I am getting ready to purchase a US Amps IS-2150 amp... which from what ive heard... on average... pushes 715-720 watts bridged peak and 600 rms @ 4ohms... and am wanting to push 3 Eclipse 6103 10's... I currently have 2 of them... which are both 4ohm SVC... the 3rd may be single or dual vc... depending on how i need to do this... or i can have the two SVC's replaced and get all 3 DVC... my problem is getting the proper ohm load... im not sure how i can do it... if i run them in parrallel... im looking at 1 or 1.3ohms... which im not sure if the amp i want is stable at th…