Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

alright, so how would you set up an amplifier to your H/U? thats my main question. if i post a picture of the amp i want, could you tell me what every thing means? i know what low pass is but everything else is confusing, and there is no gain on this amp, at least it isn't called "gain" AMP click that and go to the pictures.

Just for background information: I use to have two 12 inch Cerwin Vega's (bought in '03, no idea was model) rated for 400w rms. They are 4 ohms, single voice coil. I have them in a sealed enclosure. It was not made to spec, but it was the closest premade box I could find to spec. I think each woofer wanted something like 2.1 ft^3 or something. Lastly, I bought a cheap amp..Boss Ripper 995. Below are the specs on the amp: 2- Channel MOSFET Power Amplifier Power Max (2 Ohm) 500w x 4 Power RMS (4 Ohm) 260w x 4 Power Bridged: 1000w x 2 Tri-Mode VU meters [power level] Cooling fans Remote subwoofer level control Line and speaker level inputs MOSFET power supply Line out…

Can someone throw me the calculation for RMS wattage, i think it's something about the fuse rating times something else. I Have a Kenwood 4ch amp, with a 15amp fuse wanted to know roughly how much i could possibly expect. Half of all websites arent working at the moment. School server is being funky with the blocking, i think Mr.B needs to reset the filters.

has anybody heard of these amps, and if so what you think abou them http://www.lunaramplifiers.com/mainindex.html

Apparently I'm addicted to power. I currently have a ton of equipment sitting in the basement, and no vehicle to put it all in. Seem I keep buying amplifiers. I own a work van that I drive daily, a 1966 Buick that looks pretty in the driveway, and I have no intention of putting a system in that. I just have way too much hardware so my plans keep changing. I'm after a total SQ install, and "over the top volume"(across all frequency ranges not just bass) is something that is VERY important to me. EXTREME mid-bass and VERY clear loud highs are a must. Any suggestions as to which equipment I use and don't use are welcome. here is a list: HU- Denford 8240 HU- Denford 8240 Cap…

i have noticed that the new amps have no way of letting you know where you are setting the Freq at... i.e older PPi amps have notched pod switches, so you could count the clicks to let you know what freq: you were setting to !!! if i set the SSF to 24 clicks ( counter clockwise ) i knew it would play no lower than 23Hz and if i set the LP filter to 18 clicks ( counter clockwise ) i would play no higher than 122Hz now they use cheep generic pod switchs, and nothing printed to give the user a clue as to were you are on the freq: graph... WTF happened ? are they saving that much money using the cheeper pod switch ?

Hi So basically Im debating between which brand I should go for. Alpine or Pioneer. This is for a single din head unit. Will mainly run factory speakers (for now) and a single 12inch Pioneer sub. No, I have not heard a premium Pioneer headunit before. Yeah, some entry level ones and they have sounded good. On the other side, my friend just got installed a CDA-102 and I was astonished by the sound, of course is not fair to compare an entry level pionner to the cda-102 as the 102 is more advanced. Until today I wanted to go for the CDA-9887 since I plan on changing my factory speakers to Alpine Type X, that way I can keep Alpine all around. Now the problem comes when inspec…

here is how i have everything set up as u can see i dont have the amp and cap ground to the chasis could this be why i might have a ground loop i could make them all seperate grounds or i can tell him to buy a ground loop isolator and he only has 1 amp hes just running component speakers but hes also running one of these behringer 15s http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-B215XL-Titanium-Speaker-Standard/dp/B002P3RYXG that is hooked up to this for power i have that thing hooked up to the battery and them rcas go from the headunit to the amp to the behringer its sounds good except we are getting the noise

Ok, so the tittle may be a little confusing. Sorry about that. But what I am trying to get a answer for is to know whether or not, 1 watt, equals 1 watt? For example, lets say one company claims 1000 watts rms @ 1 ohm. And some other company claims the exact same thing. Now if we set these two amps up to a controlled vehicle/setup, why would one seem louder, or just plain oh better than the other? Obviously the main possiblity would be because someone is not providing that 1000 watts, but lets say we testing both amps the exact same way, with sophisticated equipment and techniques, to find out that they are putting out exactly 1000 watts. Then what could be the reason? T…

So getting ready to order my head unit and was wondering if anyone has any experience with my choices. right now i am debating... JVC KW.R900bt Clarion cx501 kenwood dpx500bt pioneer fhx700bt Alpine cde w235bt Anyone have any experience with any of these? Pretty sure all will do the job just the reviews are all pretty much the same so looking for better opinions

I plan on buying a HDC318 dual 2ohm with alum coil & upgraded spider pack and Im giving 4k to the sub The AQ puts out 3500rms @1ohm And the 4k2d puts out 4200rms @2ohms @ 12.8volts @ 5000+wrms @2ohms @ 13.8volts. So what amp would be better and more efficent between a aq3500d and a stetsom 4k2d?

Okay this is the second one I'm posting of this the update is I replaced the 8ga to 4ga and I'm still getting light dimming so far I replaced the alternator from a 2003 highlander and did the big three so I'm guessing the battery is left to replace or do i have anything else to fix before replacing the battery

I still have my 15" sundowns and I've recently been offered a pretty good deal on this amp. I was wondering if it's better than my current amp found here.

I was looking for a 1000 watts RMS amplifier at either 2 or 1 ohm... I am gonna put it to a 12" Fi SSD... Also, how much of a difference in sound will there be between 750rms and 1000rms? I was looking at a zx1000.1 but was wondering if there is anything as good for cheaper... I figured if i got it at 1 ohm it would be cheaper for the wattage vs. 2 ohm 1000 watts...

Hi, i will like to hear some experienced reviews, the good and bad, and/or opinions about the Crescendo BC3500d amp, ... Also, is this amp bridgeable to power 1 dual 2ohm sub, thanks

is ssa going to be making amps? the thought just crossed my mind as i was floating around caco.....

Are stepsom amps really the best amps? if not, are they really good and do they really put out the power they say for example, does the V 14K2D really put out 14000wrms @ 12 volts or not? Last thing, how much are these amps from the V 9K2D too the V 142KD? Heres a link just incase: http://www.stetsom.com.br/eng/Produtos.aspx (Go to amps and click on "DIGITAL")

I was wondering if I could safely run my 1800.1 at one ohm on a d3400 under the hood and a stock 117 amp alternator? I think it is pushing the envelope but input would be appreciated.

Friend wants to know and idk the answer lol. He wants a kinetik battery and found one on craigslist. Kinetik 2000 for $130. We are debating whether he should buy it or not. I guess the thing to check is it's voltage? Have you guys experienced buying used batteries?

hello, first post. i am hopefully getting a Fi BTL soon . anyways, i am either gettin one 12" or one 15" probly a 15". they are 2000RMS. i can get either dual 2 or 1 ohm voic coils.(ohms is the main thing i dont get in car audio) now, which should i go with? dual 1 or 2 ohm? 2 ohm is more reliable right? also, if i wer to go with dual 2 ohm...when looking for a amp, i would be looking for a amp with 2000 rms at 2ohm right? or would it be 4ohm at that point? (2ohm + 2ohm?) and for the dual 1ohm i would be looking for 2000rms at 2ohm? AHH... so confused. plz help me with this. any opinions on amps is GREAT! i dont want to spend 1500$ on a amp. i need kinda a budget amp…

So I saw the beast is apparently for sale now? Its on the order link, but didn't see it on the site earlier. Anyone willing to take the first stab at it and get us some results?

So today i turned on my car while leaving class and decided to bump on the way home. Well i couldn't because my sub wasn't working. It was working before class. I got home and hooked up my other working sub which i decided to upgrade from (VIBE slick) and that did not work either. I know for a fact that the vibe isn't blown and my amp tells me when a sub is blown, wired wrong etc. The amp said everything was fine. So i hooked up my old amp (a kenwood) and that amp didn't work either with both subs. I can't stress enough that the VIBE is a good working subwoofer. I checked all of my fuses under the hood and none of them are blown. Neither are the fuses on both of the amps.…

ok so i have the audiobahn flame q 12's (yes i know not the greatest but thats what i have to work with till later) ok so i know these say 1100rms but im pretty sure thats over rated but anyways i have them in a ported box right now with about 400 rms i think going to each one but i know they can do more cause they are barely moving....so does anyone know how much they can really handle or whats a good mono block that will push them good just not to the limit????

for some reason the amp for my subs is getting incredibly hot . I dont understand why though as the gains were set correctly and no bass boost has been engaged. I found out that the plexi glass that i had placed over the amp was making things worse so i took that off ... it is still getting pretty hot however ... i do not know if it is getting adiquate cooling as it is under a false floor but because i took the plexi off it over 3/4s of the amp is revealed ... my 4 channel amp seems to stay cool but the mono is getting hot ... they are both power series amps (t8004 and t40001bd) ... what is the remedy and is there any ways to keep the amp cool?

I had originally planned on buying a Q2200.1D to power my Ethos. After reading a thread of clamp test numbers and seeing it puts out less that 1.6k after box rise and voltage drop I'm not so sure any more. I've been looking through ads on a local audio FB page and found a SKAR 2500 for less than I'd pay new for the SQ. I know SKAR isn't well liked because of the owner, but I'm not putting money in his pocket. Just looking for the best bang for the buck. Whatever amp I decide on, what should I look for/check? I've always been leery of buying used, but I could stand to save half the cost of a good amp.