Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

tested my new spl meter and got my 155 (155.7) and then click nothing, one amp is lit blue and the other is red, is there a way to reset it, i wired them down to .5 ohms strapped, should i rewire them back to 2 ohms or what can i do to get my bass back. Its the master amp that went into protect. PLEASE HELP.............

I have a hifonics hfi1500d in my suv right now. I traded a few things and I got a hifonics bre 16001.d I was wondering which one is a better amp to use on my sundowns.

I have an 18" IA Death Penalty and a Kenwood hu. I am wondering what amps you would recommend for the 18" I also have Kicker KS series speakers amplified on a hifonics zues. basically wondering what amp to get and if facing the subwoofer up or facing it toward the front seats would be better..if I face it up would it be a big noticeable difference. I plan to tune it around 37hz

Can some one steer me in a good direction for sound quality tweeters not super tweeters that sound like poop but are really loud. thanks to anyone who can help!

So im finally ordering my dream system for my 2003 Dodge Dakota Crew Cab, Its gonna consist of 2 15" d1 SSA Icons in a box approx 8cubic feet tuned around 28hz (will be getting someone on the forum to design it. a Crescendo BC2000D, and a Kicker KX600.4 for my Hertz Hsk components, I know I need some upgraded electrical, so far Big 3 Is done in 0 guage. My truck can fit a group 27 battery but not 31 will the D2700 be adequate? alternator is stock 136 amp. Might end up getting Singer 250a but budget isnt quite ready to fork out that kinda cash. Basically I will be running around 2000 rms after rise and having speakers at 4 ohm. Is this way underkill or will it maybe be en…

I have a question can you send an alternator away to get built so it will put out more amps or is that something you could do at home with like a kit or would i just be better off buying a new bigger one? let me know what you all know/ think. Thanks!

I have a Ford, and there's this feature that doesn't shut the radio off until the doors open. Also, I will be going to school this month, and campus is small enough that I won't be driving the car unless I'm heading to the mall of back home. From what I've read, an isolator seems necessary in my case (D3400 and XP950), but I'm not sure if the diode-style will be practical, and if it's safe to have an isolator rated for higher amps than the system draws.

Hello there! I have been looking for a new head unit for over a year now. Im picky tho. I want a good one (of course) double-din,am/fm, cd, usb all that stuff. Rear rca's and all, I want to be able to change the light colors. Ive spent a good bit of money matching all my interior lights and i dont want the head unit to be different. I also want a remote. Ive had good experiences with clarion in the past, but the guy at the local audio store says clarions quality has gone down a lot. Ive been looking at some jvc's, but im not sure there quality is any better now then it was a few years ago. Im trying to stay in the $200 range. Any suggestions? P.S. I dont care for flip out…

doing some rewiring my subs and remember seeing on a bunch of builds that people use nuts and bolts so they can wire up and wire down through their box (wire from sub +s and -s to bolt going through wood and then from the out side of box wiring from bolt to amp) So my question is what kind of metel should the nuts and bolts be... i have nuts and bolts made from zinc, would those be ok to use or should i use somthing different like brass or iron ???????? ------- Wiring down to .5 ohms for spl and up to 2 ohms for street beat Thank you guys for any and all help

I'm about to order an XS Power D925 for the second battery in my suv. I have a bigger battery upfront i got from o'reilly's. It's not a deep cell but it's about the biggest I could get with out spending a ton cuz i was on a budget. Now my question is should i buy a different battery for upfront? My goals are just to get my voltage to stay at a constant voltage. My amp draws around 1500 rms and when i upgrade will probably be in the 1700-2000 rms range. What do you guys think?

How do i know what size fuse to get? 20 amp or 300 amp? Is it a preference thing or what? Anybody care yo elighten me...

If you have a two channel amp and only use 1 channel for now, would all of the amps power from both channels go through that one channel being used or would it stay the same as what it is supposed to put out per channel?

i was just wondering if any of you have had any experience with this amp? i can get a KILLER deal on one in mint condition and wanted to know your thoughts and opinions of it. thanks

So first if I have an 12" Xcon in a sealed 1.5 cb ft box where should I set the subsonic and lpf. And second what is the best deck with three sets of preouts for around 100$

I currently have this head unit http://www.walmart.com/ip/JVC-KD-S37-USB-CD-Receiver-with-Front-AUX-In/15627186 with 2volt pre outs i believe. I was wondering if i upgraded to this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_48464_Kenwood-KDC-X696.html with 4volt pre outs if i would notice a difference in the way my system sounded. Higher pre outs are good right??

alrighty, im running one jl w7 10 in my truck in jls recommended encloseure (1.5cubes tuned to 32 hz) now my question is, what amp would be best? its 750-1000watts rms. i really wanted to stay all jl in my truck ( no im not a jl nut hugger, i honestly like ther products) im doing jl mids and highs on a 300/4, and i cant decide on a jl 500/1 or a jl 1000/1 for the sub. the videos on youtube of the 500/1 on a single w7 10 doesnt really seem to make it move muchas i know it can and the 1000/1 seems about right but i wanted to get other peoples opinion. so what yall think?

Hey everyone so here's the deal I don't wanna spend $200 on a bezel to fit a double din... Although double dins look sick! So I'm sticking with a single din that has a flip out touchscreen. I've been looking everywhere for one the suits me. I have OCD and all the buttons need to be red along with a display that can be made red or something that won't stand out. My car is red and black. Also I need 3 preamp outputs. Subs, rear and front. Along with all this I need to be able to charge my iPhone and use it with the unit. I keep all my music in my phone, and I enjoy making calls through Bluetooth. Now I would like the USB port to be on the rear but the worlds not perfect hah…

1997 GMC Sierra 1500 extended cab with 3rd door. When I turn ignition to ACC, doors automatically lock (which they never did before). Inside, door lock button (driver's side and sometime passenger side) does not work, doors must be unlocked manually. When trying to exit, remote does not work inside the cab when I turn truck off. Once I exit and close driver door, the remote works to lock the doors 98% of the time. There are some minor variations, but that seems to be the regular gig. I could use a little help with this one. Thx

Im looking for a list of banned amplifiers for the dbdrag street trunk class.. I cant really find a list anywhere and iv heard that american bass amps are ban in the street classes, but i cant find an actual list.

Hey guys, I have a good friend who is putting a tablet in place of his head unit. That will leave me with an opening of about 12"x12"x4" to place an amp for him. Does anyone know of or can recommind a 50x4 class ab amp that will fit in those dimensions without getting overly hot? I dont even know what to look for as most amps are bigger than that.... I have heard of mini amps but not sure of sound quality? His budget is less than 150 bucks so PLEASE help lol Thanks in advance!

Hey I new with audio most of the time I have a mini truck which I never could fit a system into the cab but anyways i just bought a clarion amp made in 1996 and it has never been hooked up its a two channel apa2100 so what kind of subs could i run to get the best sound out of it is going in a 96 rodeo so i have room for about anything but anything would help thanks

So I have my SAX-1200D and im sure its the same with alot of amps as well. But to my question, 2 sets of RCA's and i understand both of them but they are not marked + - on either, so i dont want to disconnect the wrong ones and fry $$$ any 1 have any suggestions to which jack is + and -?

Yet again, i have a question. I am wanting to add more mids and highs to my setup, do i need a 2 or 4 channel amp to push em? Ive never done it before, never seen a reason honestly, but now i do. Also, 5 or so years ago i did a brake job for someone and they paid me with an amp. it works, but idk if it will work for mids and highs or not. any help would be appreciated. Amp- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Kicker-KX250-2-Amplifier-2-Channel-Amp-Crossover-/140737035274?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20c494bc0a

Ok, so this is my firts time actually building a legit system. I had 2 sundown sa 12's before but it wasn't enough so I'm going with Zv2 12's. I plan on running them off of a Crescendo BC3500D @ 1ohm. I have the Big 3 done in RF 1/0. The 1/0 going to the back will be replaced with something OFC. But other than that what will I need to sufficiently power this amplifier?

I was given this amp and plan on installing it tomorrow but im having no luck finding the rms of this amp. I thought I found that it was 50x4 but the picture of that amp was different than mine. The heat sink on mine overhangs two inchs on each side. Amp says Memphis PBC 4400. I took some pictures but with my iPad but they're a little blurry. Will be running an image dynamics component set off of this. I need to know if I can bridge them or if this amp puts out too much for that.