Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i need an amp that is 600w rms @ 4 ohm. or anything that will power a 15" tempest nicely. dual 8 ohm sub. thanks!

I am in the market for a double din tv/hu. I want to have full ipod/iphone control, navigation, bluetooth, 4-5V rca outputs and a decent eq / crossover network. Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT AVIC-Z120BT Kenwood DNX9960 DNX9960 Out of the two of these, what do you think has a better eq/crossover network? Also, if you thing there is a better option for a tv/hu, please chime in with your opinion.

2001 Chevy Impala. A friend's car. Aftermarket alternator rated at 220 max, 105 at idle. Overdrive pulley. Had his mechanic install the big 3 with 1/0. Optima Yellowtop 1050 amps. He only has one amp right now. 2 gauge wire running back to a JL 1000/1v2, 2 farad capacitor, and a 500 amp dry cell, running a JL 13W7. All of this was put in his car professionally... which could be good or bad. His headlights still dim, especially on the heavier individual beats. It's my understanding that the ground wires on these cars connect to a thin piece of metal that's simply folded onto another one, and therefore can't really flow that much current. ...meaning that running a dedic…

I've been running my 2 Dcons off of 300 watts (total) for a few months now, and I guess my ears are now getting used to the volume. Soooooo......time for more power! I've run across a Zapco Reference 750 that a guy has for $100. Looks to me like a great fit wattage-wise, as it will push 375 per channel or 750 bridged. I just want to know how these amps measure up, as I've never heard of them. Google searches seem to bring up positive reviews, but I'd like to hear from you guys who may have had experience with them. Thanks in advance!

so i am thinkin of using an excessive amperage alternator and would like to know how many of you use their alts and how good are they.... thanxxx

When I get my system together, I'd like to have some valuable time with an RTA to get the EQ (PXA-H701) setup right. Has anyone tried using this? Phonic PAA3 Handheld RTA Its not for setting up a competition vehicle or anything, but I'd like to know if it is good enough for me to get my eq flat with pink noise and I'll adjust by ear from there. Your thoughts?

Budget is 200 my eye is aimed on the crescendo 600.1 symphony between 600-750 rms is the power im looking for at 1ohm. Other amp was a ppi p1000.1 then my old faithful amp of choice mb quart(One of the series really haven't looked deeply into them.) Any other options I should look at for amps? Only thing im looking for is a efficient amp and the crescendos states 97% at 2ohms gets hot in the trunk in SC my father needs something that can pack a punch for a hour in the temps. Other information amp will be powering sa-8's V1. Electrical is strong for this power draw.

Linertec BASSPRO-4000 Mono 4000w Amplifier Digital Class-D Mono Block Amplifier Stable into 1 ohm load workable PWM Mosfet power supply Input sensitivity (gain) control variable 24db octave crossover slope Variable Low Pass filter (Lpf) Variable bass boost Variable subsonic filter Multi-way protection circuitry (thermal / over current / speaker short / speaker DC Protection Tested voltage & THD : 14.4v & less than 1% THD Operating voltage : DC 10v - 15.5v Max Power : 4000w ( 1 x 4000w ) Rated power output RMS @ 1ohm : 1000w x 1 RMS @ 2ohm : 660w x 1 RMS @ 4ohm : 380w x 1 Signal to Noise Ratio : >90db Low pass crossover : 35hz - 300hz High Pass Crosso…

Has anyone had any experience with this amp? Im looking for loud and cheap. It says 1800@1 , dont know how accurate it is though. It will be put on an 18" HC once I get it reconed. My Goal is loud, not daily driver just one loud burp machine. Will this amp suffice or should I look into something along the Hifonics line? My Goal is 145 to start with.

i have a jvc kwnx700, a TEAC 200 watt two channel, and a set of phoenix gold components. Recently, I bought a Fi Bl 12" , a sundown Saz-1500d, and an optima yellow top for the trunk. I wired up the batt with 1/0 welding cable and tested my high amp. it worked great. I hooked up the sub amp with 1/0 and using the old remote turn on from my previous sub set up. It didn't kick on. I then tried my remote turn on that i used on my highs. it still didn't power up. i then went back up front and found my radio off. that remote wire was spliced into the power for my HU. Could I have caused a short by yanking on it? Why wouldn't the sub amp kick on? any help would be greatly apprec…

I have a Profike HA740 4 channel amp with Rockford fosgate components on the rear and two focal midrange on the front all at 4 ohms. Maxed the gains out to all four channels and I have no clipping or distortion. Checked it with a local shop and they said no clipping at all. Profile amps equal amazing. They are now out of business though:( Messed the title up, I meant HA740.

Firs off, IF YOUR GOING TO JUST TELL ME IDK WHAT IM DOING, THEN JUST LEAVE. I DO NOT WANT TO HEAR IT. IM LEARNING. (and you know who you are) ok. so as most of u have seen in my other thread, i have just added a seconed battery. only problem is that after playing for 3 or 4 mins, my volt meter and stuff goes back to the way it was befor. goes crazy when bass hits. So im going to do the big 3. i got to looking at my alternator yesterday and my wire going from my alternator goes to my fuse box. not to my battery. so what do i do? should i still updrade it, or just leave it and do the rest? any HELP is appreciated guys. Thanks

Im trying to decide witch line driver to get for my system but I've never had one so irk were to start. Im thinking to go with the one rockford fosegate makes. Does any one have any experience. With it or one you think is better?

hi, a week ago i decided try to make my Polk MM6501 active. all was going well until i went for a drive around the block and i noticed alternator whine. i am using my alpine 9887 for the processing and my sax100.4 for the amp. and then i have Monster 402 series RCA connecting the two. Now i am having trouble finding out the Cause. i re grounded the head unit to a better spot. I tightened my ground for the amp as tight as i could. i replaced the RCA's with some 8 dollar ones from walmart. and i still have it. and it is only my rear/Highs that have the whine. and i don't really want to have to add a filter because i heard that it affects the quality of the signal…

which would you get?why? RF T10001db or Sundown 1500D for a 12 Fi Q w/BP power

my mind keeps changing ever day while i'm trying to save on what amp to get. i know its going to be a sundown. but which one? i was leaning toward the 4500. but the used 3000's looked nice. now the 3500 seem to be offering a little more. so after looking, the 3500's do not have any fuses. i really dont like fuses because when i did, it kept blowing (it was a low amp like maybe 50 or so for the whole system, 3 1000w amps and a yellow top, after the stock battery). so i upgraded it to a 250amp monster fuse, worked perfect. i have seemed to have lost my fuse so someone said "Get a circuit breaker instead". just wondering whats your ideas on Fuses and on Circuit breakers.

I can pick these suckers up for 195 each locally, 12v and something like 1200cca ea, anyone every used these before? https://m.interstatebatteries.com/product/26-4163958589-4163958502-2147384763-4294492278-4251616327-4163992330-4163958586-4163958484-2147384903/8D-MHD Considering two for my truck because the price is DUMB considering they're 130lb deep cycles.

I have a DHD NTX-2009 4 channel amp it does 250w x 4 max output. I wanted to use it for my mids and highs. I bought it used $20 on craigslist, expecting there to be errors and that maybe I can fix it. Right now I'm in a stump because I can get it to turn on, but it doesn't output sound, music. All my wires are correct and the fuses aren't blown so what could be a problem? I'm not really good at fixing amps or troubleshooting but maybe you guys can help. Ex. Had it hooked up in my truck wired to my door speakers and tweeters, played some music and the only output was my subs on my SAZ 1500. No sound from my speakers. And does anyone know a place I can trust to ship …

I love my 80prs as far as features go. Lots of control with it. Is there any double din touch screen hu's out there capable of processing? Looking to put one in my 03 Tahoe.

Hey guys. I just finished my system and I used a digital distribution block. This one: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-22D It stays on (Displays voltage), even when the car is off. I thought it would have had an automatic shut off, but I guess since it's directly connected to the battery it stays on? Can anyone confirm. Just seems weird..

I'm nearing the finish line in an installation that includes a new HU with FT/RT, FR/LT RR/RT RR/LT, and a SUB output, plus an unmarked, unidentified in the manual, RCA output on the back of the HU next to the SUB output. I have a 5 channel amp that has Channels 1(white), 2(red), 3(white) and 4(red) marked clearly on the amp, plus a SUB RT(white) and SUB LFT(red) input, all input by RCA. The same amp has 4 sets of output terminals, 1 each for + & -. It also has 2 terminals for the sub (+ & -), which connects to the sub on R &L posts. So, first question: How do I run a cable from the HU, which is 1 RCA connection, to the AMP, which has both LT and RT RC…

So i won't be in town for a couple of weeks and my bro will be driving my car... Him being in HS i know he will try to impress his friends, I specifically told him not to go above 30/35 on the H/U..... didn't tell him about the gain b/c i know he will try to turn it up if I told him I turned it down for hiim... To protect my sub I turned the sub amp gain all the way down today, but can still get some bass at full tilt, where is this power coming from? H/U? I thought turning the gain all the way down will= no power? also is it okay to keep the gain all the way down and play at full tilt? no clipping issues right? I understand the amp wont be clipping but what about the…

I have a Dual 2 ohm sub 1500 wRMS.. so it can be wired at 1 ohm or 4 ohms. I have two 1 ohm stable Autotek 1400s.. They can be linked using the MXL-100 but then I can only put a 2 ohm load on the "strapped" amp set up.. so if I run the sub on the strapped setup at with the sub at 4 ohms ill only be getting 1400 watts. Which is what I would get if I run a single amp on the sub at . Think I could run a amp to each coil if I set the outputs of the amps with a DMM? Would this cause problems? Thus giving me 1000 watts per coil and 2000 watts for the sub all together..

Ok, I have a MMATS DHCx 2200.1 hooked up to 4 single voicecoil kicker comp c12's 8 ohm each for a final load of 2 ohms. The amp is a mono channel. The problem is, sometimes when I get in the car and turn the radio on the amplifier goes strait into protect. You can still hear it playing at a very low wolume ie. 2 or 3 bars on the radio but if you turn it up any louder the sound fades away and sometimes I can turn it on and it plays fine. It usually doesn't do it unless the car has been sitting for a while. When it does this, the only way I've found to get it back playing correctly is to unhook the load from the amp turn the power off and turn it back on and reconnect t…

Can a Rockford fosgate t2500-1bd run at 0.5 ohms with every day use