Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Im trying to decide witch line driver to get for my system but I've never had one so irk were to start. Im thinking to go with the one rockford fosegate makes. Does any one have any experience. With it or one you think is better?

which would you get?why? RF T10001db or Sundown 1500D for a 12 Fi Q w/BP power

Has anyone had any experience with this amp? Im looking for loud and cheap. It says 1800@1 , dont know how accurate it is though. It will be put on an 18" HC once I get it reconed. My Goal is loud, not daily driver just one loud burp machine. Will this amp suffice or should I look into something along the Hifonics line? My Goal is 145 to start with.

Budget is 200 my eye is aimed on the crescendo 600.1 symphony between 600-750 rms is the power im looking for at 1ohm. Other amp was a ppi p1000.1 then my old faithful amp of choice mb quart(One of the series really haven't looked deeply into them.) Any other options I should look at for amps? Only thing im looking for is a efficient amp and the crescendos states 97% at 2ohms gets hot in the trunk in SC my father needs something that can pack a punch for a hour in the temps. Other information amp will be powering sa-8's V1. Electrical is strong for this power draw.

Anyone know if this is really a mono amp as some say? Specs say it's a 2 channel 50 x 2 @ 4 ohms, 80 x 1 @ 4 ohms, and 100 into 8 ohms. I've read that the amp was mislabeled at the factory and is in fact a mono amp. Figured this would be the best place to ask with all the old school fanatics on this forum. Thanks.

Ok, I have a MMATS DHCx 2200.1 hooked up to 4 single voicecoil kicker comp c12's 8 ohm each for a final load of 2 ohms. The amp is a mono channel. The problem is, sometimes when I get in the car and turn the radio on the amplifier goes strait into protect. You can still hear it playing at a very low wolume ie. 2 or 3 bars on the radio but if you turn it up any louder the sound fades away and sometimes I can turn it on and it plays fine. It usually doesn't do it unless the car has been sitting for a while. When it does this, the only way I've found to get it back playing correctly is to unhook the load from the amp turn the power off and turn it back on and reconnect t…

Hey guys I've been looking into getting a bass reconstruction processor. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these and which one I should get. I can not afford the epicenter before its reccomended.. but if you guys could give me advice before I purchase I would really appreciate it.

I am in the market for a double din tv/hu. I want to have full ipod/iphone control, navigation, bluetooth, 4-5V rca outputs and a decent eq / crossover network. Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT AVIC-Z120BT Kenwood DNX9960 DNX9960 Out of the two of these, what do you think has a better eq/crossover network? Also, if you thing there is a better option for a tv/hu, please chime in with your opinion.

ok i accedently hooked the rem turn on power to the output of the radio, and now no sound comes from it :angry: I beleive i have fucked up the internal amp on it...does anyone know a way to get a new one or have this fixed..

This is the inside of my JBL px300.4. I have narrowed down the noise in my system (HISS) to the amplifier itself by 1) Using muting plugs 2) Removeing the amp from the vehicle and using a "test bench" if you will and a test speaker to find the same noise. It's a low hiss with the vehicle OFF and ear right up close to speakers. By "test bench" I mean I connected the amp right by my battery with the ground going straight to the battery and used a test speaker and adjusted every setting on the amp with no change - gains at zero - no rca's connected. So I took off the cover not the entire sink case and looked around. Here are the two things odd I found. I'm no expert and if t…

i havent hooked anything up yet but i have a fosgate t1000bd and 1 fi BL 15 with dual 1 ohm and p chamber and flat wind since im hooking this up to a 1 ohm load but i hear that the 1 ohm is only .70 ohms will my amp keep up with the sub and will it be safe to do without blowing stuff ?? how many watts will the amp put out under 1 ohm any advise would be great

I'm going to be running a SAZ-1500d at 1 ohm on a 15" FI BL. Question is, i have the big 3 done in 0 gauge and a optima red top in a scion xb with i believe a 80 amp alt (stock). will i have any problems? I plan to get a 200 amp alt and an extra battery but would like to wait if my electrical can handle it. thanks, Justin

I have a Dual 2 ohm sub 1500 wRMS.. so it can be wired at 1 ohm or 4 ohms. I have two 1 ohm stable Autotek 1400s.. They can be linked using the MXL-100 but then I can only put a 2 ohm load on the "strapped" amp set up.. so if I run the sub on the strapped setup at with the sub at 4 ohms ill only be getting 1400 watts. Which is what I would get if I run a single amp on the sub at . Think I could run a amp to each coil if I set the outputs of the amps with a DMM? Would this cause problems? Thus giving me 1000 watts per coil and 2000 watts for the sub all together..

Has someone out there tested the American Bass vfl-120.1 maybe some 14 an 16v numbers? Thanks for any help.

Can a Rockford fosgate t2500-1bd run at 0.5 ohms with every day use

my mind keeps changing ever day while i'm trying to save on what amp to get. i know its going to be a sundown. but which one? i was leaning toward the 4500. but the used 3000's looked nice. now the 3500 seem to be offering a little more. so after looking, the 3500's do not have any fuses. i really dont like fuses because when i did, it kept blowing (it was a low amp like maybe 50 or so for the whole system, 3 1000w amps and a yellow top, after the stock battery). so i upgraded it to a 250amp monster fuse, worked perfect. i have seemed to have lost my fuse so someone said "Get a circuit breaker instead". just wondering whats your ideas on Fuses and on Circuit breakers.

Hi everyone i was wondering is the cadance zrs-7000d amp any good i remember back in the day the older one's were good because i had the z7000 the chrome one that put out 1800watts at 1ohm and i was not sure if the zrs are any good ?

i need an amp that is 600w rms @ 4 ohm. or anything that will power a 15" tempest nicely. dual 8 ohm sub. thanks!

I did some research and I realize they are mostly a build house for other car audio companies and are based out of Korea. I just can't really find any info on the amplifiers they put out under their own name. I was looking at the "Zenon World Competition Series 4 Channel Amplifier", but can't find squat for info or reviews. Just curious if anyone has any experience with this amplifier? Would you say it would be a good SQ amplifier to run a component set with? Thanks for any help.

I have a 2008 dodge caliber and I would like to put a double din in it. I could use some help on getting some head units to choose from. I plan on spending between $300-600, more if needed. I'm looking for a head unit that has 3 sets of pre outs, usb, good eq(more than just a 3 band eq), time alignment would be nice (just incase if I ever decide to mess with all that). navigation and bluetooth is all optional but wouldnt hurt. I also have the zed ra, if that makes any difference. one that I have looked at is the Pioneer AVH-P3400BH for $300. Any suggestions and experience on some would be much appreciated.

I was just given an orion d2400 its powers on but goes into protect then esp then protect again. I opened it up and i dont see anything wrong no fried mosfets in fact i dont see anything fried. Still smells new im gonna have a diagnostic done on it but what do you all think is wrong

My truck currently has a stock 160amp alternator, and a yellow top under the hood...I'm doubting this will be enough to power a saz-3500d @ 1.33ohm and a sax-125.2. I'm not planning on running the system with the engine off for long periods of time... Any advice as far as what kind of performance I could expect (if any), or if my stock alternator would even work for this application?

Firs off, IF YOUR GOING TO JUST TELL ME IDK WHAT IM DOING, THEN JUST LEAVE. I DO NOT WANT TO HEAR IT. IM LEARNING. (and you know who you are) ok. so as most of u have seen in my other thread, i have just added a seconed battery. only problem is that after playing for 3 or 4 mins, my volt meter and stuff goes back to the way it was befor. goes crazy when bass hits. So im going to do the big 3. i got to looking at my alternator yesterday and my wire going from my alternator goes to my fuse box. not to my battery. so what do i do? should i still updrade it, or just leave it and do the rest? any HELP is appreciated guys. Thanks

I can pick these suckers up for 195 each locally, 12v and something like 1200cca ea, anyone every used these before? https://m.interstatebatteries.com/product/26-4163958589-4163958502-2147384763-4294492278-4251616327-4163992330-4163958586-4163958484-2147384903/8D-MHD Considering two for my truck because the price is DUMB considering they're 130lb deep cycles.

I do not want to run an amp @ 1/2 ohm. I have two dual 2 subs. I can get a Massive P3000.1 for $618.99, bnib, but it has to come over the border, so I'm not sure what border fees will be and stuff. MA Audio HK4000D http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14753 MA Audio HK802SX http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14738 I've heard both of these are power hogs.. I was thinking of going with a 200 amp alternator, and some extra batteries, would this be enough? I haven't found the batteries yet. I could also buy two SAZ-1500Ds, old heat sink design from dB-r. However that is really more than I'm wanting to spend. What else is out there?