Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Realistically, how big of amps can I run (D class) in total wattage on a 136 amp alternator? I checked the specs for a dodge diesel and this is what it said of the output. After looking at the number, I'm thinking I'll only be able to run one sub and to incorporate two of the channels for the sub.

As with being located in Australia it's not that easy to get a big alternator cause most of the auto sparkys are f*#%wits... I asked him would I be able to run a SK-1500.1 and a SK-85.4 of my car and he said "yeah mate.. You could run them off the stock batt" I face palmed it so I put it to you people.... My car came from factory with a 100 amp alternator and it has I think 2 awg wire to the batt... I've already put an xs power d3400 in Would I be able to run these 2 amps how it is now and if not let me know what mods I need to do so I can have a piece of mind and not constantly worried ill be on low voltage Cheers mate

I bought my Alpine CDE 9881 from a pawn shop for 50 bucks back when I had my old car and I recently got a nissan maxima. One thing I rly hate, this headunit has no aux in front or USB and most important, it doesnt work with a steering wheel adaptor. I have had a few people offer me $65 for it (is that a decent price?) and I think I might sell it and get something a little better. I know crutchfield is usually over priced but their headunits seems fairly priced, especially since they give you all the install stuff and save me around 30 bucks. I'm not going to do much with this headunit, just listen to music on my ipod. Idk how to tune, etc. I'm also running a passive setup…

Hey guys, just wondering what kind of battery charger/tender do i need to use while playing my stereo in my garage without having to keep the car running? Probably stupid question but dont have any experience with battery chargers.

I hooked up a system for my buddy a year or so ago.. Just 1 Treo 12 and an audio pipe ap1500. Stock electrical. All has been good till yesterday.. His stock battery took a shut so he replaced it. Called me up to help him adjust the deck back where it was. I went through it and when I began turning it up the ampoules cuts out. Goes into protect for about 4 seconds and keeps on playing for another 5 seconds or so and does it again UNTILL I turn it down. I lowered the gain a little bit out of curiosity but same thing.. What can be causing this? Where do I start? This was a used amp when he bought it on CL so maybe the Amps taking a shit? Any help is appreciated.

whats the most i should sell or buy a t1000.4ad its was a display unit for 3 months

My US Merlin md3d just blew in my car by far one of my favorite amps cause its 1 ohm stable....way underrated...n excepts 0 gauge. Don't kno were to go from here... I can get another Merlin for like 400 and be happy but wanted to here your guys thoughts on Wat I should get.... I'm runnin 2 Orion hcca 10" wired together for 1 ohm....any suggestions would b awesome...thanx

I'm in the market for a new amp and will be running it @ 2ohms on X2 SA-12s is either one of these any bit significantly better than the other (SQ, Doing rated etc)

I have an older(99-01timefame) lil wonder 4 that I have misplaced the crossover/filter sip chips for. Does anyone know if they are an electronics supply house item or will I need to contact Soundstream to replace them?

what is the high side and low end price for a used 300x in very good condition I know the are under rated and hard to find

I have done a few searches and have come up empty. Does anyone on this forum have and experience with this? I know it has been done several times before. To be more specific I want to use just the screen from the i-pad 3 as a monitor. If anyone has done something similar before please share some of your hard earned knowledge. Thanks.

So on this next run I plan on running my amps not strapped. I know how to gain set with a DMM. Xovers I typically do by ear. My plan of attack is to DD-1 both amps, check output voltage of both amps and match to the one with less output. Now I'm not worried about setting the LPF on the amps since I can do that via the HU. My only area of concern is the SSF. I'm a little fuzzy on gain matching with the SSF. Do you play your selected tone of choice (lets use 30hz in this example) continue to turn the filter up until you see a dip in output voltage? Then repeat on the second amp. I'll most likely use Y-splitters for the RCAs to ensure proper distribution of pre out voltage i…

I was just wondering if this is possible, or even worth it? I have never seen any manufacture attempt this, but I believe that it would improve the quality of the sound as well as be cost effective in the aspect of less material/weight/mass that three sets of RCAs use. I'm not sure if anybody will be able to answer this question, but I was just wondering what is the reason for manufactures pursuing this route. Any opinions are welcomed.

Ok, so after doing the voltage setting of the gain, I figured I need around 50 volts for the saz2500d running at 1 ohm. Currently at 40 till I get the inside done with bracing. Problem is, when I turn volume up to 29-30, after 10-15 seconds the circuit breaker up front for the positive run of 0 gauge trips. Then the amp goes into protect mode. Am I drawing that much current that I need to run another run of 0 gauge? Have a 31m diehard platinum in the rear, all 0 gauge, and a 270 mechman. Big 3 in 0 gauge and all frame grounds. Amp ground is only 16" or so to frame.

Alright well does it matter what voice coil gets wired first? I got a ssd15 and it has 3 out of 4 stickers were black... you know the stickers that say pos or neg... but i need to wire my dual 2 to 1 ohm and wanted to make sure it didnt matter what terminal was first

I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue and am getting ready to purchase the things that I am still missing in my setup. My main concern is my Audiobahn 2300hct powering my 2 12" JL W7's at 1ohm. I have a yellow top for the trunk and a capacitor as well, here is where I'm lost as I've never used an extra battery or a cap before. The AB has 4x40 fuses, and I also plan to buy a 4 channel amp that does 75x4 rms {not sure on model yet}. My first question is how many fuses should I run throughout setup? Currently I have a 200amp ANL fuse, should I run this 18" from the battery {front duralast, or trunk yellow top}, or should I run a 200amp ANL at each battery? I Also plan on purchasi…

Alright so im not going to buy the crimpers for one time use... i was at homedepot and picked up plumbers solder... ik everyone says use electrical solder... whats the difference? And will the plumbers solder be good enough?... im using 1 guage to a 1300rms amp.

I ordered 1 guage wire and it should be in soon. I have 8guage running to my 2channel now that was drilled through my firewall. Is there any other ways to get such a large wire through? Id rather not put that big of a hole in my vehicle. What are my options? As always all help is very much appreciated

I currently have a stock alt thats 70amps... but im putting in a 1300rms amp and a 70rms 2channel... i was wondering if i could get a cheap alt so i wouldnt have to worry about my voltage. I have all stock electrical, and stock battery no big 3... big 3 is going to happen very soon. But after that id like to upgrade alt... how much would this cost me for a 06 tundra. V8 4.7L

YO, I am getting ready to set up a dual alt in my 2001 chevy astro van but the last few days alone it has been 90+ degrees so i am very indifferent about getting rid of my A/C if anyone knows of anyone that was able to keep A/C and run multiple alts please share. I am willing to get rid of my belt driven fan and go electric as well as add cold air intake to free up space in front of the belt and pulley area if anyone knows a way to Fab up something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Well im planning to buy either 1awg or 2 awg power wire from wire and supply to power my ppi black ice 1300.1d. I have all stock electrical.. but i need a fuse inbetween my battery and amp. What sizedo i get? The amp has 4 35amp fuses... does that mean get a 130 or so fuse? And should i get the anl fuse or the round one?... and is that wire the right size? Or should i be going with 4awg? Or like 1/0...

OK long story short. I bought a crescendo c1100.4 everything runs fine when the car is off, I can turn it up loud as ever it sounds clean. When I start the car after a while the amp goes into protect. I sent it back to crescendo they tell me nothing is wrong. When I got the amp back I did step by step problem testing, I changed the RCA's hooked them up one by one, changed speaker wires, changed to soldered grounds and power tips, and I even changed my head unit. The same problem happens, I did a test to see how long it would play when the car is off and it STAYS on and plays loud and nice for a loooooong time. When I turn the car on same volume etc it goes into protect af…

Ok. So I put the zcon's and the 2500d in. Now when I set the gain using the dd1 till I can get ahold of my friend with the oscope, the voltage goes down to 12.5. I have a mechman 270, big 3 in 0 gauge, ran the pos and neg from front to rear batt in 0 gauge, installed fuse in front, fuse in rear, soldered all connections. Rear batt is a diehard platinum 31m marine agm with 205 reserve, but yet when I turn volume up to around 30 out of 35, amp goes into protect mode and volts drop to 12.5. (Radio was o scoped at 40hz and 1k hz and had no clipping evident)Even at 1500 rpm. Am I missing something or is the saz2500d drawing that much amperage? Also speaker wire was 14 gauge. A…

Ok, so yesterday I was warming the car up for an oil change and started beating on the system a bit. I noticed one woofer not moving quite as much as the other. So today I took all the speaker wire out of the amps (2 bc3500's strapped) and each woofer is reading 4 ohms??? It's supposed to be wired to 1 ohm per woofer 2 ohm strapped. I don't know what I did wrong. I'm not sure if there is a different way to check impedence if the amps are strapped.? I notices the master amp gets slightly warm and the slave is cold. I need some advice as I'm gettign frazzled. The woofers are 2 fi btl 15's Dual 2's I put a camera inside the box to make sure no wires came loose but everything…

could i go wire straight from the alternator to the battery in the rear? the alt would also still be wired to the front battery as well. the car im installing is an 2000 honda accord. would i need to fuse after the alternator and before the batery in the rear? in my head this would work but ive never done it this way before...