Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ok so i have a brz2400 that is rated to do 2400rms at 1 ohm. my question is about the fusing of the amp, it has no internal fuses, jus the one under the hood for the power wire. so with that said, would it be required to externally fuse the amp? and how would i go about doing this? what would be the correct size fuses? how many? where to put them? etc........ also what would be a good fuse to put under the hood for the amp power cable? there is a 150 in the holder right now and it is zero gauge cable, is that good enough? if not, what would be a recommended size for that with my amp? i am building my system for 2 12 xcons in my tc and i want to do it right the first ti…

What does everyone think of a denon DCT-1? I know a friend who has one that i might be able to snag cheap!

ok i know people on here say not to bother with a capasitor but almost everyone in my town here is telling me not to get a 2nd battery b/c it's not going to be as good and i'm wondering y you guys reccomend the battery over a capasitor? they tell me that caps are made for letting big draws out and batterys arn't ment for that, now i'm unsure what to do it's for a daily system a sundown saz2000d and fi btl 12" and big three 1/0 wire.

Ok guys i might be opening a can of worms here but i dont understand why people do this to set their gain and think its right. to me, it doesnt make sense and i will explain why. a lot of times i see this chart here and people say set it for xxx voltage and you are set. ignore step 4 since without having a load on the amp is kinda pointless. if that chart is right, then i am putting 1300 watts to my sub, but with a clamp, DMM, and thanks to ohms law, i found out i am putting ~800 to my sub. i am not saying that chart is mathematically wrong, just cant be used the way its intended. so whats the deal? i dont understand why you would use that chart (or any formula equivale…

Whats up everyone, alright so i came across this voltage meter on amazon today and was wondering what you guys think of it. Its a ciggarette lighter voltage gauge. Do you think it would be accurate? If not how off do you think it is and why? i know the cig lighter is hooked straight up to the battery and its a 12v lighter but will this volt meter be accurate at all? here it is http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1307664465&sr=8-3

Hooking my brother up with my 15" Fi Q (basic) and its being powered by a RD 1000.1D doing 1000 at 1 ohm. Looking to get an amp kit for him and I can't remember whether or not to use 4 gauge power wire or higher? Also, the amp has 30Ax3 fuses for a total of 90 amps so I'm assuming I need a 90 amp fuse for the power cable? Reason I'm asking is because the knukonceptz kit I was looking at comes with a 120 amp fuse. Just a few simple questions.

Well after much researching and debating, I ended up buying this headunit, and dont let the name brand fool you. From the information I gathered, this headunit is a beast and also a sleeper, has a crap load of features and rumored to have active capabilities. So I ordered it from Soniceletronix for $199 shipped, and it included the iPod adapter, installation accessories and free shipping. It has been out since the end of 06, and retail was $600!!!!! So on to the pics, plan on installing it this weekend, and I will do a full review and a video review And I had all Pioneers in the past, from the 580MP, to the 880PRS, and lastly the 780MP. So i know what to look for …

I Have a 2000 bmw 5 series. Here is the setup: 1 15 BTL n2 fully loaded powered by a hifonics 2000.1 All under hood elecrical will be done with 0 awg ROCKFORD FOSGATE WIRING. Stock alt. (I believe it is 160amp) Either the stock batt or kinnetik batt upgrade will be used Do you guys think that the cars electrical will be able to handle it? gain will not be set to max.. I jus wanna be able to make car alarms go off with the BTL hhahaha Thank you for your time

Ok so power master dont do a alt for my model of car, but im still intrested. so how hard and complicated is it to make a custom brcket. what are the ristks and chances of things going wrong? and guestimate price i should be paying for it. thx in advanse

I have been reading around on some build logs and people are saying that they have an amplifier that is "clamped". What does this mean? I have been googling around with no luck (so far).

What's the difference besides the price? I know that the Kolossus cable is supposed to be thicker than standard AWG but is it worth almost double the price? Referring to 1/0 awg wire with an Audioque AQ1200D. Wire would be for power/ground/big 3.

ok so i finally get my SeXXX in the mail, haha so i got me alil box ready so i hook it up, want to hear it better so i take a drive and crank it up a bit, as i'm increasing the power click, it cuts off, so i go check it out and all 3 fuses are blown...so i check my connections it's all good, i go back to my amp open it up, and the piece that holds the fuses in parallel i believe one of the pieces was off so it was all running through one piece instead of being regulated between 2 pieces... I paid 120 bux for the car audio people to fix this and now what it breaks a month later, and i haven'ty even had any subs to play it with for a while anyways...i would go back up ther…

So i won't be in town for a couple of weeks and my bro will be driving my car... Him being in HS i know he will try to impress his friends, I specifically told him not to go above 30/35 on the H/U..... didn't tell him about the gain b/c i know he will try to turn it up if I told him I turned it down for hiim... To protect my sub I turned the sub amp gain all the way down today, but can still get some bass at full tilt, where is this power coming from? H/U? I thought turning the gain all the way down will= no power? also is it okay to keep the gain all the way down and play at full tilt? no clipping issues right? I understand the amp wont be clipping but what about the…

Hey guys, just wondering how difficult it is to disable the illumination of the logo on these amps. I don't have one, otherwise It'd be open by now. Also, is it only the logo that lights up? I know the 08 series there's LED's as well around the border of the faceplate.

Oh my, what is the world coming to... http://www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=48

I am wondering if a brutus 1600 watt is a good amp, i heard it is over rated. I am soon hoping to order eather a Fi BL or Q dual 2 ohm. I'm just wondering what some people know about it?

i have a 5000w 15 inch candence beastmaster sub and i need a amp with at least 1200 rms and i wanted some help with what would be the best choice for me and this all needs to fit into my 1997 neon

Hello, A friend of mine is asking me what can he chose for his new amplifier. He compete in spl, but want to play music too, so I think he should not get an amp to play at 0.5v daily. He has 2 18" subs (I guess Soundstream) with VC of 1.2 ohms. He can have a load of 0.6 or 2.4 for each sub, so 1.2 ohm for both. He will keep on upgrading the electrical system, but already has some AGM batteries in the car. I just thought about Stetsom amps. What brand should we look for ? What amps ? budget : let's say $1500 for amps. He will have shipping and custom taxes to pay. He's in a hurry, because the next local comp is on 02/20/2011. If you need more info, just ask. Thank you.

I have 2 large 100aH AGM batteries in the rear and a factory sized AGM under the hood. A cpl weeks ago I went to start the van and it was dead. I got it started and voltage was terribly low. I only ran it for a few minutes then let it sit, restarted a few times for a few minutes...I dont have a charger. After a couple days everything seemed back to normal. I watch the factory gauge a lot closer and am surprised at how much voltage can change day to day while running, independant of hot days to cold days. Some times it runs around 13.5V other times 14.2V, even in the same day, sometimes 14.2V when its warmer and been driving and sometimes 13.5V when its colder and/or less …

so i was on my way home from my local audio shop and boom. my amp stopped playing and started blowing smoke. i only had my stero on 25 out of 60.it was a mtx 1501d elite. so before i even got to my driveway, i turned around and went right back to the audio shop. befor i even opened the door, he started laughing because he knew what happened. haha he told me come back in 3 days with $75 and itll be as good as new. just thought id share my story with yall **R.I.P. mtx 1501d elite series**

are there any plans to bring back another 8v deck? if not I want to hold onto my 8053

Eyh, Got a great deal on dual DD3515 2ohm dvc subs, so i'm planning on running them at 2 ohms, Been looking at the kicker 2500.1 amp but is there any more good altarnatives out there ? Thanks, Denven

I am currently on my third high output alternator in this car. Both my yellow top under the hood and xp3000 in the trunk have been tested for bad cells etc. they are each fine. There is no indication of belt slip occurring whatsoever not even silent. Big three upgrade is in place. The alt charges perfectly fine for a week or so then just stops putting out amperage as if its a regulator gone bad or rectifier bridge that's somehow over worked itself. Besides mounting it there is a run of positive to the battery from the charging stud and a one-wire charge lead that I splice into a 12v connection for the regulator to operate off of so I don't understand where the issue is co…

which would you guys pick? both would be @ 1 ohm, and i just got a kinetik hc2400 as well (for the mini) the amp is for my 12" mt only thing is ive heard the failure rate on the PB is alot higher than the 2500d. my friend has an xa3000, and its broken 2 or 3 times already, even after PB fixes it. it does good power, just i dont want it breaking down on me... i got it MINT for about 200 bux... 400 for the battery and the amp, both are like new, ill post pics later

i have an 03 mazda protege dx...it's i tiny four door car similar to a civic in size....the alt is a stock 80 amp the problem is they do not make a HO alt for this car...i have one yellow top under the hood and i guess it's getting old now considering the voltage is getting lower when i am hittin hard.. i do have s 2.5 farad cap and i know it doesn't cure the problem! but i'm afraid of adding another battery in the trunk because wouldn't that make it harder on the altenator to charge 2 batteries?? Amp is a titanium 2400 Subs 2 15" fi Q's voltage drops to like 11.8 to 11.3 the lowest! any way of working around this? or do i need to add another batterie?