Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

ok so i done some trouble shooting to figure out why im still getting voltage drops, light dimming, and why my subs turn off when i play heavy bass songs, and this is what i came across so today i measured for bad grounds, first i measured the battery with the car off, 12.6volts. secound i measured from the neg side of batt to chassis ground, got 0.01 as a reading on the DMM, so that means mininum resistance which is good right? i turned my car on, turned on the wiper blades front and rear, turned high beams and headlights on, and put my heater on MAX i put my HU to about 26/35 and measured the battery and it never went less than 13volts so with everything still on, i me…

I noticed this when I did my first Install and I didn't think much of it at the time because I was assuming my Alternator had a major roll to play with this. I received and installed my 270 HO alternator from DC. I am still getting really bad voltage drop at idle. Well i am driving it's fine i stay at 14.4-14.6... Once i hit a red light it drops down 12.2-12.4ish. If the heat or AC is on at idle i wanna cry The only thing i have running in my car at the moment is my sundown 100.4 and i have 2x XS d3100 installed. 1 in the hood and 1 in the back. I did some research and I read on trailvoy.com that the car PC tells the alternator to shut off at idle....called a dealership…

hey guys im goin to be runnin a second batt in my trunk and let me get this right is this all i need wire wise stock batt+....fuse....+kinetik...fuse....distro...amp stock batt-.........-kinetik....amp and i will have a big 3 with a inline fuse form the alt to my stock batt all this being 1/0 thanks in advance

I keep hearing over and over to spend the money on speakers and processing. I am debating on buying a zapco ref. 360.4 and a 1100.1. This will set me back like 1400 bucks for new stuff from an authorized dealer. I am highly considering scratching the zapco amps and going with Crossfire. Either a vr404 or 2 - vr402's for the active front stage and a vr1000d for subs. I know Crossfire has a stellar reputation for SPL amps and that. Anyone have some good SQ competition with any of their class AB amps? The processing will not be an issue as I will be using an Audiocontrol MVC, 6XS, and 2 - EQT's. Thanks for any and all opinions or comments.

Which is a better battery: Powermaster d3100 or the kinetik 2400?

Here you go... There's still an amp missing, the matching 225 for the right side. I may be switching out the 2100 for a 250 for awhile. I'm trying to get ahold of another 2100 so I can run two to the sub, one on each coil. As it is right now it blends really well with the front stage for rock and so forth but there just isn't enough for hardcore bass music and I don't want to risk the 2100 by running it @ 1 ohm. Edit: The links got clipped somehow when I copied and pasted them in. They should work now and inline images.

OK long story short. I bought a crescendo c1100.4 everything runs fine when the car is off, I can turn it up loud as ever it sounds clean. When I start the car after a while the amp goes into protect. I sent it back to crescendo they tell me nothing is wrong. When I got the amp back I did step by step problem testing, I changed the RCA's hooked them up one by one, changed speaker wires, changed to soldered grounds and power tips, and I even changed my head unit. The same problem happens, I did a test to see how long it would play when the car is off and it STAYS on and plays loud and nice for a loooooong time. When I turn the car on same volume etc it goes into protect af…

i have an 03 mazda protege dx...it's i tiny four door car similar to a civic in size....the alt is a stock 80 amp the problem is they do not make a HO alt for this car...i have one yellow top under the hood and i guess it's getting old now considering the voltage is getting lower when i am hittin hard.. i do have s 2.5 farad cap and i know it doesn't cure the problem! but i'm afraid of adding another battery in the trunk because wouldn't that make it harder on the altenator to charge 2 batteries?? Amp is a titanium 2400 Subs 2 15" fi Q's voltage drops to like 11.8 to 11.3 the lowest! any way of working around this? or do i need to add another batterie?

Which amp is better and why

I called a few friends but noone knew, so as soon as I got home, next step was to ask here. I sort of remember some people mentioning some kind of ground loop noise in the system, or had grounding issues with this head unit. Is this true or am I thinking of another Pioneer deck? I ask because I need to get a new deck for the civic to compete and Amanda's old Sony is not going to cut it. And before anyone asks, yes I want eclipse, but I just don't want to lay out that much for a deck right now. Thanks

I just installed a 10" xcon that can either be wired at .5 or 2 ohms. It is currently running on a jl audio jx 1000.1 so 1000w at 2 ohms but I really want to get a 2000w 2ohm amp. Having trouble finding a reliable amp that puts that power out at 2 ohms without breaking the bank!! Not sure if my electrical could handle .5 or id give that a shot.. I drive a mazda tribute stock 110 amp alt and stock battery... Don't really think I can do over 1000 @ 0.5ohm

Hey guys, just wondering how difficult it is to disable the illumination of the logo on these amps. I don't have one, otherwise It'd be open by now. Also, is it only the logo that lights up? I know the 08 series there's LED's as well around the border of the faceplate.

Oh my, what is the world coming to... http://www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=48

ok i got 2 RE HC' 12's, and im looking for opinions on amp(s) to get, so far denim has helped me out alot, he has recomended the following: 2 kx800.4 2 dei 1100 1 pg tantrum 1200.1 1 us amp 2000 and many more so what would you recommend. It dont have to be one of them can be anything. thanx, Rob

Do you guys know how i can simply bypass the safety feature for the dvd so it will play while driving ? On most units you just geound the parking brake wire but from what I've read online this wont work? Its the factory dvd nav system. Any help would be great. Thanks

Hey guys! Looking for help on picking a new head unit. I've found a few, but want to see what the experts have to say or what else can be found. Will be installed in a 2011 GTI. No steering wheel controls. Base model. Requirements: Internal active crossovers Somehow able to mirror or have a really clean connection with my Android phone to where I can use apps like spotify and google maps on the unit. Don't want to have to touch my phone while driving. Double Din Dial volume knob, preferably one that "clicks" for each volume tick Ability to hook up back up camera Doesn't look too crazy Possible to keep it under $400? I don't care about CD play…

Had to disconnect my radio for trouble shooting and when I hooked it back up with yellow to yellow red to red it dosnt wont to power on unless it's hard wired yellow to red.. I have a extra orange (illumination) wire left can't remember if it was hooked up or not please help so I don't have to take my deck out everytime

Eyh, Got a great deal on dual DD3515 2ohm dvc subs, so i'm planning on running them at 2 ohms, Been looking at the kicker 2500.1 amp but is there any more good altarnatives out there ? Thanks, Denven

ok so my friend needs another battery terminal that has 2 1/0 openings. his other one for the positive has a 1/0 4/0 and 2 8/0's anybody know where i can get one with 2 1/0 guage inputs

anyone think this would work in a lincoln, well duh it would but there is a wire that goes from the alt to the batt, right ok do i just splice the wires and wire them together and connect it if i ws going to do this??? i think this is the only way i'm going to get 250amps atleast so my car wont kill over... if i ever decide to do it i'll post some pics.... at the moment i need to find a engine, because my brother F***** up the one already in their.. :angry:

So I download a lot of mixtapes from sites like DatPiff and so on. They sound alright. I DLed on my Game's old songs today and it was amazingly loud and clear, like hurting my ears while playing. Music usually doesn't get that loud in my ride. I believe there is too much variance in mp3s. I don't remember this with CDs. Always loud and clear. Anybody here still bump with CDs? And what are some good high quality strictly CD players, if you can still get them?

Why is it that my headunit nearly has to be turned up all the way for my subs to get extremely loud I have an aq 2200 with 1/0 ran and a second battery and the big three done my headunit is kenwood not sure on model number my subs are 2 audiopipes 15" an are rated 1000rms my headunit goes up to vol 35 and 1-28 are barely pushing then when I hit about 33 it's loud then when I hit 34 there is a huge difference in bass any help thanks

doing some rewiring my subs and remember seeing on a bunch of builds that people use nuts and bolts so they can wire up and wire down through their box (wire from sub +s and -s to bolt going through wood and then from the out side of box wiring from bolt to amp) So my question is what kind of metel should the nuts and bolts be... i have nuts and bolts made from zinc, would those be ok to use or should i use somthing different like brass or iron ???????? ------- Wiring down to .5 ohms for spl and up to 2 ohms for street beat Thank you guys for any and all help

I picked up an Orion 2250 SX on OfferUp for $75 (happy birthday to me!). It was advertised as not-working, but it looks good visually and I thought I MIGHT want it repaired. The problem is I can't find anyone who repairs the older stuff. Amp Medics is 40 minutes from my house, but Steve stopped fixing the old ones (parts are impossible to get). DB-R stopped fixed legacy amps back in 2010. So, anyone know anyone who is willing and able to fix my Beast? (I know technically only the Orion XTR 2250 was called the Beast, but I choose to ignore that fact).