Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a RF T1500-1BDCP that once it is powered up its thermal light is lit very dim. The amp still delivers sound (and tons of it) and the protect light does not come on. It does this once the amp has power ground and accessory wires connected and radio is turned on. The system has runs of 0gauge KunKoncepts (+ and -), big 3 0gauge, optimum red top up front. Alt is 110 amp soon to be upgraded. I tested the wiring with an old P300-1 and it didn't have the thermal light show. I checked ground, and voltage and both were good. Anybody ever seen this happen? Even though the rest of the system wasn't connected yet it is pushing 1 FI BL 10" (fully loaded) running at 2 ohm. let …

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To fill you in...I'm stationed in Japan and have a 1996 Honda Orthia wagon (equivalent to a Civic or CRX). The battery is very small! My alternator is factory. I've done the Big 3. I have a Panasonic CQDFX85 head unit, (2) RE Audio 6.5 two-way speakers powered by a US Amps USA-50 and a 10" MB Quart DWE-254 sub powered by a US Amps USA-100. My lights don't dim when listening to music. They start to dim when I'm sitting at a light and I click my window button up. I'm going to replace my MB Quart with a RE Audio 10" SE10D2 and use a US Amps USA-150X to power it. I know this will probably cause my lights to dim alot! I've had a US Amps Optimizer sitting in my closet for 6 yrs…

ok so i finally get my SeXXX in the mail, haha so i got me alil box ready so i hook it up, want to hear it better so i take a drive and crank it up a bit, as i'm increasing the power click, it cuts off, so i go check it out and all 3 fuses are blown...so i check my connections it's all good, i go back to my amp open it up, and the piece that holds the fuses in parallel i believe one of the pieces was off so it was all running through one piece instead of being regulated between 2 pieces... I paid 120 bux for the car audio people to fix this and now what it breaks a month later, and i haven'ty even had any subs to play it with for a while anyways...i would go back up ther…

so i was on my way home from my local audio shop and boom. my amp stopped playing and started blowing smoke. i only had my stero on 25 out of 60.it was a mtx 1501d elite. so before i even got to my driveway, i turned around and went right back to the audio shop. befor i even opened the door, he started laughing because he knew what happened. haha he told me come back in 3 days with $75 and itll be as good as new. just thought id share my story with yall **R.I.P. mtx 1501d elite series**

System consists of the following: • 2010 and up Camaro drivers side large stealth enclosure from Subthump • Knukonceptz 4AWG wiring and interconnects and speaker wire • MTX RE-Q • Subthump T-Harness (used so that we DO NOT splice into the factory wiring) • 12" Fi Q (dual 2 ohm wired to 4 ohms w/ all options and high qts) • ZED Audio Kronos bridged @ 4 ohm (1000rms) There are a couple things that seem to be off. For one, we are using the factory headunit and thought that the RE-Q would be perfect because of the bass restoration, and the fact that the Kronos needs unbalanced grounded preouts (as said by Steve from ZED). Now, due to the fact we havent installed any bass blo…

Anyone have any opinion on this deck? I'm just about to buy it.. I used to have a DEHP-6000 and loved it.. I wouldn't buy any other decks except pioneer, they are just nice peices of equipment IMO. I have a computer in my car for stereo mostly, but I've decided to get the head unit again beacuse I want a volume KNOB as well as eq options, the option to use a CD, and my FM radio back. I could have all of this with the computer, but a deck looks cleaner. I'm still going to keep the computer though, and use the head unit's AUX to plug it in. I wouldn't take it out for anything. I have over 3000 songs and it's great to no flip through a book of CD's everytime I get in the car…

Do you guys know how i can simply bypass the safety feature for the dvd so it will play while driving ? On most units you just geound the parking brake wire but from what I've read online this wont work? Its the factory dvd nav system. Any help would be great. Thanks

I just had to replace my highs amp (jl audio 360/4) due to a malfunction. I was getting "engine" noise that came and went and also was present with car not running??! So I purchased an RF P400x4 to match my sub amps (t1500bdcp). I am happy with the amp, its the new model so it has input clipping and output clipping indicators, and a fancy set up disc with all tones and sweeps necessary (0db and -5db). So far very pleased. Also just fyi my pioneer p4400bh DOES NOT CLIP even at full volume. But that being said I had to go almost 3/4 on gains to get the required output without clipping of course. Also my sub amps are up quite high. So, long story short, I am getting very int…

Hey guys i was recommend here by denim. Be patient i don't know much about stereos, i'm a motor guy. Here's my situation, my explorer has an xtant 3300x powering then entire stereo system. It burned out about 3 weeks ago, supposidly a shop is fixing it, but they say they are having trouble getting parts. I'm growing impatient because i have nothing at all, because i have a non powered eclipse head unit. I'd like to replace it with a xtant 603, but at the moment even a refurbished one is a little much for my budget. Could i get away with using a xtant 403 to power the whole thing? Pics of the stereo are on the second or third page of my cardomain in my sig. I have a do…

I need a new 2 channel to drive some 6.5"s in the doors. I need something on the small side and not looking to spend a lot. Mind you I don't want some Walmart brand $30 specials either. Anyway, back in the day I had a Soundstream Lil' Wonder amp. Loved that thing to death. I know several of the bigger companies back when I got into car audio (late 80's ish) have really gone downhill in terms of build and quality. I came across a Rubicon 2.250 that will fit the space requirements and the power I need. Not familar with anything they have made in the past few years. Are they still pretty decent? Not looking to compete or anything like that. Just looking for something …

I just spun myself out on this, I feel like I know the answer but fuck it If i'm running an amp that draws 400a rms, and I have a 200a alt, a g31 under the hood 4/0 to the rear bank, and 6 g31's in the rear, I fuse appropriate for the wire always, not the peak rating of my alternator yes? something like, 300a for 4/0 iirc. If I already plug up the bank and charge it fairly often (once a week), no real concern for such a small alt supporting that bank, correct?

I have all green led lights in my truck and i know that a lot of companys make amps with blue lighted logos but i want a green lighted logo. I need an amp that is 600 rms at 4 ohms. For my FI x12. Or if any one knows of one thats closer to 1000rms at 4 ohms but still cheap that would be great. I know my budget is really low but its about 150... Thanks for any help

heres my problem, i already have my amps in hand, in question is the mono subwoofer amp which is a hifinoics brutus BRZ2400.1D RMS Power @ 1 ohm 2400 watts x 1 channel i also already ordered my subs which are 3 fi q series 18's, someone brought up to me that with ohm rise i really will only see around 500 watts per sub, and to me thats a waste when thats only half there rated power..so i have 2 options to go from here, by another fi q and end up with 4 18's and buy another brz 2400 watt amp which would really put a strain on me budget wise, or stay with the 3 18's and use the brz 2400 watt amp on 2 of the fi q series and buy a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D for only $209 and …

Eyh, Got a great deal on dual DD3515 2ohm dvc subs, so i'm planning on running them at 2 ohms, Been looking at the kicker 2500.1 amp but is there any more good altarnatives out there ? Thanks, Denven

I have a tc-loc2 hooked up to a hifonics brx1100.d running at 2 ohms to a re sex v2 12" in a 2 cu ft 32hz box. The amp is rated at 800 rms at 2 ohms and and the sub is rated at 750 rms. I have the gains on the LOC all the way up and the gains on the amp at about 6/8ths, now that is partly because I set the gains with the remote at 50%. Anyways is it alright if the amp gains are maxed out because if I turn the loc gains down I will probably have to. thanks

Hey I wanted to know if I could get some help for a friend. His car is a 98 Toyota Avalon and he recently bought a 250amp mechman alternator. He switched out his old alt for his new alt(Everything on the new alternator is a plug and play), revved the engine made some minor positioning adjustments to get rid of the squeeky loose noise. We went to a bank to get some money for my brothers install he did. The battery was dead for some reason. So we thought maybe the remote wire for the subs was touching the power wire while in the bank for so long. That wasn't the case. Anyways we got a jump and headed to a auto performance shop to put my brothers new muffler on. Well on the…

Whats up everyone, alright so i came across this voltage meter on amazon today and was wondering what you guys think of it. Its a ciggarette lighter voltage gauge. Do you think it would be accurate? If not how off do you think it is and why? i know the cig lighter is hooked straight up to the battery and its a 12v lighter but will this volt meter be accurate at all? here it is http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1307664465&sr=8-3

hi guys, never had any experience with audioque Im thinking of getting a aq2200d and a 15 hdc3 for now any suggestions,experience,pros cons would be greatly appreciated!

I currently have the IA 10.1 amp and a 15 inch Death Penalty with dual two ohm coils. I was worried about my electrical so I ordered a 1200w amp to be safe. My stock electrical holds at 15.2v at full tilt. It spikes down to 14.9 but quickly recovers due to the smart alternator, which is rated at 150 amps. The subwoofer definitely can handle more power. So my options would be to buy another 10.1 and strap them at 1 ohm or sell the 10.1 and buy a larger amp, DC audio 2K, or buy two other amps and strap them at 1 which would look good. Don't want to spend too much but I know another 10.1 is 400.

I have the option of using either amps for my components (Rainbow) and rear fill (JBL mids): Alpine MRV-F302 V12, 4x50 @ 4 ohm @ 14.4 Planet Audio P450, 4 x 50 @ ohm Anyone have exp with these or similar amps from the Alpine and PA lines? Which one will get me better SQ? Advice appreciated. Thanks!

I wish I had heard about eclipse before.. got my 8053 deck installed today... not running it balanced yet.. waiting for the summer to do that.. This deck is sweet.. Never heard a deck so clear before.... my subs clip at high volume now but that another storey.... I'll just turn the gain down I've only had about 1 hour in the car listening to it but I'm very impressed and very happy with it..

I forgot to rewire the BTL to 4ohm when I swapped it with my 15's in the HT, and while I was doing so, I began to wonder, if my amp is only 4ohm stable, how does it function exactly, under 4ohm? (I had it wired at 1ohm for the Neer) For example, if you sweep the box, and you measure your entire playable range, and it never exceeds the rated RMS of the amp, say you're wired at one quarter rated minimum like me, and you have it set conservatively, and safe, does that prevent premature failure that low impedance is known for? Is that how people run amps at .25 daily and shit since it's only passing the rated amount of power through? I always assumed they did that for comp…

WHat kind of wiring kit should i get for a 1000 watt amp 2 channel?

I am going to be getting my subs back this next week. I have 4 8's a 2000 watt hifonics brtus amp. with i believe 8ga wire with a optmia red top up front. would a cap be the way i should go or would another battery be better.