Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I picked up an Orion 2250 SX on OfferUp for $75 (happy birthday to me!). It was advertised as not-working, but it looks good visually and I thought I MIGHT want it repaired. The problem is I can't find anyone who repairs the older stuff. Amp Medics is 40 minutes from my house, but Steve stopped fixing the old ones (parts are impossible to get). DB-R stopped fixed legacy amps back in 2010. So, anyone know anyone who is willing and able to fix my Beast? (I know technically only the Orion XTR 2250 was called the Beast, but I choose to ignore that fact).

hey everyone, so today i went to harbor freight tools, got a DMM on sale for 3.00 dollars, the name brand was cen-tech, heres the link CEN-TECH MULIMETER so anyways i got home, logged on, looked on the stickies for the Setting gain with DMM tut and i done everything i was suppose to, minimized HU Settings,bass,treble,etc, used a 50 hz tone 0 db, and when i connected the DMM to the speaker output with no load, i had to set the gain almost at 3/4 to get my voltage i have a hifonics bxi 1200 watt amp at 1 ohm load on 2 12" pioneer 308D4 rated at 400 rms per sub HU is kenwood MPC205, 2 volts at sub pre-out 1200 wrms at 1 ohm load so 34.64 Volts is what im striving for on my d…

I just had to replace my highs amp (jl audio 360/4) due to a malfunction. I was getting "engine" noise that came and went and also was present with car not running??! So I purchased an RF P400x4 to match my sub amps (t1500bdcp). I am happy with the amp, its the new model so it has input clipping and output clipping indicators, and a fancy set up disc with all tones and sweeps necessary (0db and -5db). So far very pleased. Also just fyi my pioneer p4400bh DOES NOT CLIP even at full volume. But that being said I had to go almost 3/4 on gains to get the required output without clipping of course. Also my sub amps are up quite high. So, long story short, I am getting very int…

heres my problem, i already have my amps in hand, in question is the mono subwoofer amp which is a hifinoics brutus BRZ2400.1D RMS Power @ 1 ohm 2400 watts x 1 channel i also already ordered my subs which are 3 fi q series 18's, someone brought up to me that with ohm rise i really will only see around 500 watts per sub, and to me thats a waste when thats only half there rated power..so i have 2 options to go from here, by another fi q and end up with 4 18's and buy another brz 2400 watt amp which would really put a strain on me budget wise, or stay with the 3 18's and use the brz 2400 watt amp on 2 of the fi q series and buy a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D for only $209 and …

hi guys, never had any experience with audioque Im thinking of getting a aq2200d and a 15 hdc3 for now any suggestions,experience,pros cons would be greatly appreciated!

I wish I had heard about eclipse before.. got my 8053 deck installed today... not running it balanced yet.. waiting for the summer to do that.. This deck is sweet.. Never heard a deck so clear before.... my subs clip at high volume now but that another storey.... I'll just turn the gain down I've only had about 1 hour in the car listening to it but I'm very impressed and very happy with it..

System consists of the following: • 2010 and up Camaro drivers side large stealth enclosure from Subthump • Knukonceptz 4AWG wiring and interconnects and speaker wire • MTX RE-Q • Subthump T-Harness (used so that we DO NOT splice into the factory wiring) • 12" Fi Q (dual 2 ohm wired to 4 ohms w/ all options and high qts) • ZED Audio Kronos bridged @ 4 ohm (1000rms) There are a couple things that seem to be off. For one, we are using the factory headunit and thought that the RE-Q would be perfect because of the bass restoration, and the fact that the Kronos needs unbalanced grounded preouts (as said by Steve from ZED). Now, due to the fact we havent installed any bass blo…

orion-2400watts-449$ http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI..._Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT MA-460$ http://cgi.ebay.com/MA-AUDIO-HK802SX-HK-80...1QQcmdZViewItem or i could save about 100$ and get that bx2006

4 channel amplifier with bandpass capabilities ... 150w x 4 @ 14v.... More info http://www.phoenixgold.com/products/amplifiers/Elite/product.php?productID=75 Each click on the crossover dial has a set point??? WTF?!?!?!?! clicks amazing!!!

hi! i need you good opinions on this amps: KICKER 750.1- - $410.66 # Class D # Amplifier Type 1 Channel # Mono subwoofer amplifier # 375 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms # 750 watts x 1 at 2 ohms ALPINE-MRP-M1000 - $451.72 # Mono (single channel) V-Power BASS amplifier # Class D # RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20Hz-20kHz) # Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V +-1%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz) 600W x 1 # Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V +-1%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz) 1000W x 1 i'm from europe...the price are the cheapest i can find.. in europe.. thanks

Hello, I have problem with choosing speakers (I'm just new in car audio), but I got 2 power amplifiers - CONCORD CA 2075 (300W),they are both 2 channel. One of them is bridged and connected to bass tube (raveland 400W). Second one will be connected to 4 speakers (2 x front 165mm, 2 x rear 130mm) , and I need to buy them, but I don't know how to compute how much Watts those speakers should have when i will connect them to this 300W power amplifier, which would have 2 speakers connected to + and - "left" and next 2 speakers for + and - "right". (You don't need to give me models of speakers cause idk if they will be available in my country, just give me how much watts they s…

Anyone have any opinion on this deck? I'm just about to buy it.. I used to have a DEHP-6000 and loved it.. I wouldn't buy any other decks except pioneer, they are just nice peices of equipment IMO. I have a computer in my car for stereo mostly, but I've decided to get the head unit again beacuse I want a volume KNOB as well as eq options, the option to use a CD, and my FM radio back. I could have all of this with the computer, but a deck looks cleaner. I'm still going to keep the computer though, and use the head unit's AUX to plug it in. I wouldn't take it out for anything. I have over 3000 songs and it's great to no flip through a book of CD's everytime I get in the car…

I have the option of using either amps for my components (Rainbow) and rear fill (JBL mids): Alpine MRV-F302 V12, 4x50 @ 4 ohm @ 14.4 Planet Audio P450, 4 x 50 @ ohm Anyone have exp with these or similar amps from the Alpine and PA lines? Which one will get me better SQ? Advice appreciated. Thanks!

Whats a good amp for two 15 l7s. I was gona get a zx1500.1 but i think that wont be enough power to push these 15s. I will also probably upgrade my battery.

I forgot to rewire the BTL to 4ohm when I swapped it with my 15's in the HT, and while I was doing so, I began to wonder, if my amp is only 4ohm stable, how does it function exactly, under 4ohm? (I had it wired at 1ohm for the Neer) For example, if you sweep the box, and you measure your entire playable range, and it never exceeds the rated RMS of the amp, say you're wired at one quarter rated minimum like me, and you have it set conservatively, and safe, does that prevent premature failure that low impedance is known for? Is that how people run amps at .25 daily and shit since it's only passing the rated amount of power through? I always assumed they did that for comp…

i have a 5000w 15 inch candence beastmaster sub and i need a amp with at least 1200 rms and i wanted some help with what would be the best choice for me and this all needs to fit into my 1997 neon

Hey all, I have a USB and the jack that connect to my iPOD. Is the USB just for information/control and the jack for the music? Can I use the jack for input from my PC? here is a link that has a pic of the back, the top left corner has 2 wires coming out, the bottom black wire is like a regular headphone/mic/line in/line out jack. Can I run a PC/laptop out into this to playback PC/laptop sound through my system? Also, when i purchased the $900 unit a key reason was for the optical out... listed at this site still, though discontinued. I spent an extra $100 for an optical cable only to find a rubber plug where the optical out is supposed to be, was told by my local Alpine …

I currently have the IA 10.1 amp and a 15 inch Death Penalty with dual two ohm coils. I was worried about my electrical so I ordered a 1200w amp to be safe. My stock electrical holds at 15.2v at full tilt. It spikes down to 14.9 but quickly recovers due to the smart alternator, which is rated at 150 amps. The subwoofer definitely can handle more power. So my options would be to buy another 10.1 and strap them at 1 ohm or sell the 10.1 and buy a larger amp, DC audio 2K, or buy two other amps and strap them at 1 which would look good. Don't want to spend too much but I know another 10.1 is 400.

Does anybody know where the brand Hifonics is made? Thanks!

About to be doing an install in a newer charger and a dash kit for an after market radio is like $500 so just tring to see what the best option would be if the customer is not trying to spend 500 on just a dash kit . . Just going to be adding a sub and amp

Ive decided i wanted to go 2-way active with my new system im buying. Problem is I dont know which is better or more cost efficient. The decks ive been looking at are : pioneer prs 800, kenwood x991, clarion drz9255, Eclipse CD7200mkii and as far as active crossovers i dont know who to look at besides audiocontrol but i figure if im gonna pay almost $400 might as well buy a new deck. What would any of yall recommend?

I just spun myself out on this, I feel like I know the answer but fuck it If i'm running an amp that draws 400a rms, and I have a 200a alt, a g31 under the hood 4/0 to the rear bank, and 6 g31's in the rear, I fuse appropriate for the wire always, not the peak rating of my alternator yes? something like, 300a for 4/0 iirc. If I already plug up the bank and charge it fairly often (once a week), no real concern for such a small alt supporting that bank, correct?

Looking for a cheap amp for a friends car, he'll be buying my SA12s. Needs 1200 at two ohms. Are the Hifonics BRZ amps good? I found one for 200$ new.

So here is my setup in the back of my crew cab: You can follow the blue 4ga OFC and see the power inputs for the amp. My question is in regards to the ground. Right now the 100.4 (on the left) is grounded to the bolt you can see through the carpet almost under that amp. The 1000D is not hooked up yet, but I don't really think a run of 4ga to that same bolt is a good enough ground. Do you guys agree? I was originally planning to put a bolt through the floor right under the 1000D and ground both there, but the fuel tank is directly below that amp. I have 4ga OFC as well as some spare 1/0 CCA. Here are the options I see: A) Get a 1/0 to 4ga reducer for the ground input and…

Okay s i just got out of the sub thread and decided to go with a single maw-15 setup in my G6. Currently Im using an Orion 600D On two maw-15's which is horrible because i believe they are only getting abot 175/200 watts to each sub. if that. So Im looking for a mono-block amp that will give my maw-15 around 500-600 watts continuous. It's been broken in so I'm sure i can push it to 600 watts. thanks in advance ~MadroX