Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So as of yesterday I now have a small amount of noise creeping in . Nothings changed . I have two batteries under the hood , both are grounded to the frame with 0 gauge. The alt body is grounded to one of the batteries. All the amps are grounded to a distribution block which is grounded to the frame ,and body . I'm going to check all the connections , but am I doing something wrong. I never had any noise before yesterday.

I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer(s10) I was wonderin if anyone could tell me what size alt. I need I will be runnin around 2400rms thankx for any help

im thinking of getting a audioque aq1200d to push a mtx 9510-44 what you guys think

I drive an 03 Dodge ram....I am looking into a Sundown SAZ3500D (my dream amp....haha) and I was told that it pulls 300A and that my truck alternator puts out 120A max. I was for sure planning on running another battery for the amp, but another alternator and more upgrades? what all is required to upgrade to be able to use the 3500D? Is it worth it? Fill me in.

I have an 05 Outback. Looking at a bunch of options. Best option seems to be Excessive Amperage who can do a 200A for 385. Anything over 200 supposedly will slip due to horrible belt wrap, and I only have a 5 rib belt. Mechman, Singer, Ohio Gen, and DC power are more cash for less ALT than the EA. So its either EA or possibly this? Stumbled across this. http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Fitzall-220 Anyone heard or used one? Seems to fit WAY more than just my car. Which worry's me as far as how "drop in" it really is.

Clarion DVD head unit with a 7 inch flip out monitor , 2x Kicker CVX 12 inch Dual 4 ohm (750rms) each wired to 1 ohm in a sealed box , Orion 2400D mono channel amp wired @ 1200 watts rms 1 ohm , Memphis M-class 4 channel 75 rms x 4 , Memphis 6x9 in the rear 85 rms each , Eclipse 5.25 inch 3 way components in the front . Optima red top under the hood , Optima yellow top in the trunk , and a Kinetics cap-killer equivelent to 100 1:farad caps . MY QUESTION IS - how do you know what frequency is best suited for your amp/sub setup - to get best spl/sq - or do you just play it by ear ?????????????

Regretably, my Denon DCT-3500 is dead and gone. However, I really like the idea of 5 channel amps but being that "5" is one character they are really hard to search for. For ease of installation, space savings, and for a dedicated set of drivers a 5 channel fits real well (read the woman's car). Thought I would start a list and ask that everyone list anything else that they might use. Denon DCT-3500 -- 35wx4 @4 80wx1 @4 NeXt VRZ 500.5 -- 70wx4 @4 240x1 @4 Kicker KX700.5 -- 40wx4 @4 200x1 @4 Alpine MRV-F450 -- 30wx4 @4 150wx1 @4 SoundStream Van Gogh VGA800.5 -- 50wx4 @4 200wx1 @4 So far the NeXT is winning by specs, but thought there has to be other options.

In the market for one. so far have looked into db, irragi, cbr electronics, nations, mechman, and just recently spring hill. I've heard of people having issues with mechman and irragi but after doing some reading there could be other reasons why their units failed. Any input on any of these? right now I'm leaning more towards spring hill autoelectric simply because they offer more options for upgrading ie i can order just the parts i need and upgrade the alternator myself and save $100+ that and their customer service has been very responsive about answering my thousand questions. even on the weekend which i thought odd... Anyone have any dealings with them either??

I just installed the digital knukonceptz distribution block and connected a line for the ground so the digital display can work. My question is how long should the display stay on? Its been about 15min and its still on.

So here is my system so far: ID CTX65CS comps SAX-125.2 for the comps AQ1200D amp SDC2.5 12" sub Now i was told by the only good car audio place in town that the 9887 is the way to go. I read on here that there's really no reason to buy the 9886 (or anything at that level) and that the OP should either go up or down. I'm not planning on buying anything new, at least head unit wise, for a really long time so I don't want screw up. I really don't know too much about head units. I haven't even bought one....I have a sony xplod that came with my first car, and I still have it (its been about 2-3 years). But that HU just isn't gonna cut it anymore. I figure I'd be fine with…

Currently have 1 run each 1/0 gauge wire on a 180 amp alt with 3 kinetik batteries on the back (running 1 audioque 3500d.1 in the back). My voltage at ilde is dropping to around 12 volts and at 2000 rpm it is dropping to around 12.3 to 12.5 volts when i'm cranking it up for demos. My question is would adding another run or two of 1/0 help keep my voltage up or do i need a bigger alt?

I keep hearing over and over to spend the money on speakers and processing. I am debating on buying a zapco ref. 360.4 and a 1100.1. This will set me back like 1400 bucks for new stuff from an authorized dealer. I am highly considering scratching the zapco amps and going with Crossfire. Either a vr404 or 2 - vr402's for the active front stage and a vr1000d for subs. I know Crossfire has a stellar reputation for SPL amps and that. Anyone have some good SQ competition with any of their class AB amps? The processing will not be an issue as I will be using an Audiocontrol MVC, 6XS, and 2 - EQT's. Thanks for any and all opinions or comments.

I am about to start building my system in my ex cab toyota truck. I am not sure if I am going with 2 Fi Q15's or 2 BL15's, fully loaded yet. But I need a amp that puts out around 1000 watts RMS at 1 ohm for around $360. So far I have been looking at these: Hifonics 2600W for around $350 AudioQue AQ2200D for $390 Which one of these should I get or is there any other amp out there in this price range that might be better?

I am thinking a running a 3way active system and was wondering what are some of the best headunits to use.

I want a cheap but decent head unit with an aux jack in the front... I went to several shops; they kept showing me Sony's. They were Xplodes; one had a USB jack in the front. For a second, I wanted one; I started to freak out. I don't like Sony; please help me.

ok, here's the situation. i've been out of the game for a while and am jumping back in with both feet but have a little area of concern, i will be running a 100.4 on all my mids and highs for front stage and rear fill but have also been toying with throwing a Audio Control eqs 6 channel crossover at it as well. My concern here is that with all the crossover points between the eqs and the amps, that there will be some serious tuning issues to the point of wanting to pull out what ever hair i have left. ( yes i am considered an old fart in the car audio world now, 33 on wednesday) I am open to suggestions here on which routes to go as far as ditching the idea of the eqs a…

I'm curious as to what difference I should except to see switching amps. Currently I have some shitty old soundstream amp, MAYBE giving my SSD 18" 300w. I'm not even sure on that. I'm going to be switching it out for a SAE-1000d. What kind of output difference should I be expecting ? I'm sure overall sound quality will be better, as my current amp is garbage.... But will there be more SPL ? That's what I'm curious about.

Hey all I need to re wire my car and move my batts back and get them off my back seat so I can compete.So i was wondering instead of having to take all my wire that I ran out,Could I just use a distribution block as a means of extending my wire?Here is a pic of what I have currently and what Im talking about doing. Sorry for crappy drawings lol.So if you understand what im talking about doing, will it work ?Thanks

http://www.keyrazyleds.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=62&category_id=7&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=30 it just a 12volt remote box with a wireless remote, i would like to know if i can use this on my amps? because it is original use for led light, but it just looks like its only input and out system so input do i put + and - of my back batteries? and ouput i put my + and - from my amp terminals? also do you think it will be fine if i add a stinger volt meter and another amp to the same box? (2saz3500's strapped voltmeter and maybe a 100.4)

See the smoked plexi in the middle? What does everyone think? Leave it? Replace it with a clear red? Replace it with clear and have JBL and Crown etched on either side and backlit red?

I'm still not getting the full output of my sub (BL 12), most likely because of low/bad signals from the LOC crudely tapped into the rear speakers at the moment. But I would like to get a new head unit that will give me nice clean signals straight from the head unit. I've narrowed it down to these two (although I'm open for suggestions, like always). I've read on the Steve Meade Forums that this line of the Pioneer head unit was great. But the Kenwood seems very similar. I would like to hear some opinions. http://www.crutchfield.com/s_130P6200BT/Pioneer-DEH-P6200BT.html?tp=5684 http://www.crutchfield.com/s_113KDCX794/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X794.html?tp=5684

Hi guys, my current amp is starting to give me some issues (well I think it is). It is an option audio OA1200 powering a Fi Q12 at 1ohm, and I have had it for about 5 years now but I don't think it's dealing too well with a 1ohm load (it has been running at 2ohms till now when I got the Q). When I initially hooked everything up I set the gains using my oscilloscope, the HU did not clip even at full volume, and the amp started clipping at ~1/3 turn using both a 60hz and 30hz sine wave. Anyway, a couple of weeks later I noticed the sub was getting hot, which should not really happen on 1200w,so i decided to inspect the system again. I checked my 4 channel amp, and that was …

Does anyone here know who makes Digital Design amplifiers, and are they worth the extra money?

can i ground my amp to another ground in the trunk? ill have a picture in a moment when i figure out how.

So i checked today my battery voltage in the manual, its said it was 12.8v fully charged, this weekend into the week i am going to try and get a voltmeter, today i went to walmart, no luck. So the amps ive came down to for powering my 15" Fi BTL are: SunDown:SAZ-1000D which is $315, or maybe something with more if i can find one Audioque: 1200D or 2200D I dont want to buy or invest in an amp that is over $600 so if theres a better option please tell me. on a different note, what would an equalizer do for me,im trying to look into how to turn on and off the sub would a basic bass knob be the best? Also what are some good cheap alternators? links would be nice, i am pretty…