Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

heres my problem, i already have my amps in hand, in question is the mono subwoofer amp which is a hifinoics brutus BRZ2400.1D RMS Power @ 1 ohm 2400 watts x 1 channel i also already ordered my subs which are 3 fi q series 18's, someone brought up to me that with ohm rise i really will only see around 500 watts per sub, and to me thats a waste when thats only half there rated power..so i have 2 options to go from here, by another fi q and end up with 4 18's and buy another brz 2400 watt amp which would really put a strain on me budget wise, or stay with the 3 18's and use the brz 2400 watt amp on 2 of the fi q series and buy a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D for only $209 and …

Does anyone know what the accurate specs are for the sundown audio SAZ 1500d v.3 is? I lost the paper work for this and i've found 2 sites that claim to have the specs but they are different from one another. I'm just trying to figure out the accurate inline fuse to use and the accurate watts.

so i just replaced my battery two days ago and the battery is already swelling up the next day and today not much has changed. my first guess was heat and still might be, one other info is that the battery is loose not tied down since the bar or battery holding thing that goes across it was to tall to hold the battery in place. so the battery is loose and able to move should i get a new one and tie it down. this battery is the second one and if i replace it it will be the third one from them battery: duralast platinum 34r car toyota camry alt: 130amp from a 2003 highlander(original stock 80 amps)

Okay s i just got out of the sub thread and decided to go with a single maw-15 setup in my G6. Currently Im using an Orion 600D On two maw-15's which is horrible because i believe they are only getting abot 175/200 watts to each sub. if that. So Im looking for a mono-block amp that will give my maw-15 around 500-600 watts continuous. It's been broken in so I'm sure i can push it to 600 watts. thanks in advance ~MadroX

My Amp is Flickering back and forth out of protect and power..Ive changed the fuses..I have changed the power wire connenction and all...I'm outta Suggestions..Need Help Bad

Ive decided i wanted to go 2-way active with my new system im buying. Problem is I dont know which is better or more cost efficient. The decks ive been looking at are : pioneer prs 800, kenwood x991, clarion drz9255, Eclipse CD7200mkii and as far as active crossovers i dont know who to look at besides audiocontrol but i figure if im gonna pay almost $400 might as well buy a new deck. What would any of yall recommend?

So sonic electronix has a JVC KW-NX7000 open box for $549 with free shipping My link Its got most of the stuff I want(minus bluetooth) My orginal plan was to get the KEnwood Dnx-6140. Its $779 after shipping. I like the screen on the jvc better, but I'm fond of the kenwoods. I know how the bypass works on the kenwood, but not sure how to do it on the jvc, I love the way kewoods work with ipod and have no idea how the jvc works(do you have to have special cable or can you use the apple one?) I have $605 in savings and could order the JVC today if I wanted. If I wait, it will take me about a month to get the extra $180 or so for the KEnwood. Thanx in advance. And again, ti…

i had needed to get guided in the right direction on purchasing an h/0 alternator. just need to know how big of an alt i need to get to run 4000 rms (2 subs) or 2000rms (1 sub) thanks!!!!

I have a JBL BP1200.1 powering a rl P-12. From battery to amp is about 9 ft and ground is about 4 ft. The amp's plug looks like its for a 4ga. Should single 4ga runs be sufficient? if so, who wants to buy some 1/0 and sell me 9 ft of 4ga??? (from the old setup)

I have about 30 1990's amplifiers. Mostly Precision Power. I want to test the amplifiers both for functionality and for max unclipped output. I will record the data on a spreadsheet. I will also record by video. Method : Power supply - 12v car battery Source - Ipod Load - (2) 200w 8ohm non-inductive resistors Oscilloscope - DSO Nano panel meter for measuring power supply voltage Amplifier output, resistor, DSO Nano, and volt meter connections "Switched" turn-on Positive and negative blocks Wattage will be calculated using P=E^2/R. Resistance of the dummy load will be measured before and after the test. Are there any faults in my testing method? First amp tested i…

I currently drive a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T with the 3.6liter V6 and I have 2 JL 13w7's, 2 HD1200/1's, Alpine 137bt HU, with Alpine 200watt power pack running JL C2 61/2's in front and C2 6x9's in rear and stock 31/2's in my dash and I also have a audio 1000 watt capable battery in my trunk wired in with the factory batt. As of right now I'm only running 1 sub and 1 amp and I wandering what kind of electrical upgrades I would need to run both sets for 2600watts that's 2 amps and the power pack together. I'm gonna do the big 3 and add another 1000 watt capable battery, do you guys think this would be enough, or would I need a high output alternator as well. I pretty sure …

This will take over the duties of powering my front stage. The 2100-XXK that's in there right now is doing fine, but the Germaniums seems like it wants a bit more power....so a bit more power they shall get. The 2100-XXK rated at 100 x 2 @ 4 ohm, the 4150-XXK when bridged will do 320 x 2. (Don't think I'll send THAT much power to them though, but it's good to have some headroom) Not sure if I'm going to use this lil guy. If anything I'll just put it on the 1500-XXK that's powering my sub.

Is the american bass vfl 1000.1 stable at 1ohm?

Hey I wanted to know if I could get some help for a friend. His car is a 98 Toyota Avalon and he recently bought a 250amp mechman alternator. He switched out his old alt for his new alt(Everything on the new alternator is a plug and play), revved the engine made some minor positioning adjustments to get rid of the squeeky loose noise. We went to a bank to get some money for my brothers install he did. The battery was dead for some reason. So we thought maybe the remote wire for the subs was touching the power wire while in the bank for so long. That wasn't the case. Anyways we got a jump and headed to a auto performance shop to put my brothers new muffler on. Well on the…

Set on buying a GCON 12 for my accord but having trouble finding a good amp for under $300 to power it. Any suggestions on what would pair well with the SSA? I know its kind of a stupid question but im a newb just learning about car audio. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks!

ok so i done some trouble shooting to figure out why im still getting voltage drops, light dimming, and why my subs turn off when i play heavy bass songs, and this is what i came across so today i measured for bad grounds, first i measured the battery with the car off, 12.6volts. secound i measured from the neg side of batt to chassis ground, got 0.01 as a reading on the DMM, so that means mininum resistance which is good right? i turned my car on, turned on the wiper blades front and rear, turned high beams and headlights on, and put my heater on MAX i put my HU to about 26/35 and measured the battery and it never went less than 13volts so with everything still on, i me…

Recently got the 360.3. I was reading some older threads found on google and I noticed a couple of posts mentioned that once you get the 360 setup and tweaked that your supposed to keep your amp gain down and you don't have to do any further adjustments. I think because of the 360's output somehow?....I just wanted some clarification on this.

I don't know if this is old news or not but i just stumbled across this so it might be helpful for others. I'm assuming this will work with all other car dvd players that are wired to where you must be in park and have the hand brake applied twice before video will appear. OK, this is what it can do- The purpose of the safety feature is to not show video while in drive.... however, a glitch in my Alpine allows to show video while i'm driving and only shuts it off when the brake is pressed so for road trips, , you need not a video bypass. What i did- While i was in a stopped position, you could even consider just starting the car a stopped position because you only need t…

im trying to find some parts for a JL 1000/1 if anyone can help me find where i need to go to get these parts that would be great... the part location on the board is d205

ok so my friend needs another battery terminal that has 2 1/0 openings. his other one for the positive has a 1/0 4/0 and 2 8/0's anybody know where i can get one with 2 1/0 guage inputs

i have a 2003 LincolTC, my system is a Soundqubed HDS315-D2 1200RMS powered by an Orion cobalt 2500.1D 1ohm stable amp, which is what i have it wired to. Ive only got 4ga 100% OFC, not that cheap oxidizing CCA junk, ran as power & ground which Im sure you'll all say thats too low ga. of wire which i already know & agree on that fact, just my financial circumstances are unable to afford me the luxuries of a larger ga considering I already owned the 4ga wire i used lol & considering the 15'+ of 0/1 or 0/2 ga OFC i would need for the length of my boat of a car i am just going to stick it out w/ what i got for now cuz i wont run that cheap cca crap. so an…

it was sounding to good to be true. didn't know if these amps are ok. wanting to put it on 2 l7 kicker 15. thanks. saw it on on line car stereo.com

I've started looking at amps for my SPl set up so I know how much I need to save. I really dont want to spend more than $500 but i know that is kinda hard. Im looking for something that can drive my Ava at 4ohm well or 1ohm with the gains down and do some good SPL runs at 1ohm with my Custom Woofage DP. I was looking at the 20.1 but that is alot of money. Kicker, Orion, they all cost lots of money for lots of power. I know power cost money but does anyone know where i can get the hook up? Ive yet to talk to my GF's uncle about a kicker amp. assumeing i could get one what would be a good amp to suit my needs.

I installed a audiopipe 1500 to power a sundown x10 in a ported box. jl audio componants in the front doors jl coaxials in the rear deck running on a jl700/5 the 2012 mustang gt factory hu and lastly the pain in my back is a audiocontrol dq 61. I mounted everything on a wall behind the rear seats just in the trunk. I 2 separate stinger 1/0 for power as well as grounds. My signal is also stinger 9 conductor w/ 2 350amp fuses. the 5th channel on the 700/5 is waiting on jl8w3 mounted in the front doors. I hope there is something my eyes are not catching because the insides sound like tin cans. when I am able to improve the sound I cant turn them up beyond 25% without clip…

Hey guys i was recommend here by denim. Be patient i don't know much about stereos, i'm a motor guy. Here's my situation, my explorer has an xtant 3300x powering then entire stereo system. It burned out about 3 weeks ago, supposidly a shop is fixing it, but they say they are having trouble getting parts. I'm growing impatient because i have nothing at all, because i have a non powered eclipse head unit. I'd like to replace it with a xtant 603, but at the moment even a refurbished one is a little much for my budget. Could i get away with using a xtant 403 to power the whole thing? Pics of the stereo are on the second or third page of my cardomain in my sig. I have a do…