Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am doing some minor repairs to a Kicker ZR-1000 that I picked up cheap. Does anybody know if it is possible to jump across the docking port and run it full range just to check it out or is there some sort of circut on those modules necessary for for the amp to operate? It seems simple enough, but I'm guessing this may not be possible. I know the owners manual says not to even power it up without a module.

I might be in the market for one in a few months and was wondering whats the consensous around here to get a great H.O.

I read some where that all alpine head units have crossovers that cut off bass at 30hz so they want allow you to hit the low lows. Is this true or just internet BS?

Hello, I heard that Mazda 3s computer systems cannot handle new HO alt's, so that being said I wanted to just fabricate a new bracket for a secondary alt instead, but there is no possible room to put another alt. so I was thinking of just getting more batteries instead, is that a good choice? or should I investigate and try to get a new alt anyway. Right now I'm currently running 1800 rms with stock alt big 3 all 1/0 100% OFC and XS power XP750 and getting pretty bad voltage drop, I'm going as low as the upper 11s . and my amp gets a little hot (i think that's why). I plan to upgrade to 3500 rms, so that's why i want a new alt. HELP! thanks!

Hey I just made an all new setup in my car. I have 2 skar audip vvx 12s in a 3.7 ft box tuned to 34 hz running off a crescendo bc2k. I have a 100 amp alt not sure if its stock and a northstar agm battery. its pretty much an xs3400. I aslo hace the big 3 done in 1/0 gauge. The setup is alright but it just doesn't slam as hard as I expected. I used to run one of the vvx 12s on a kicker zx1000.1 with the gajn and bass boost like 3/4 up and bassboost and loudness on on my deck and it would slam just as hard as these do now. Iy did burn the voice coil after about 2-3 months though so I learned my lesson about all yhose settings and clipping. Now I just use the bass knob wit…

So, I had the Kenwood performance series 1800 amp. Almost 5 years and it finally went. So, I am in the market for a new amp. I was looking at the ct sounds at1400.1D. Seen Steve Meade bench test it. It seems impressive. But, keep getting told to don't waste my money. That it's not quality. So, I'm back to looking. I have a budget of $400. I'm not looking at skar or soundstream tarantula amps. Would like 1000+rms at 2 ohms. What would be recommended by you guys? I always stuck with what has worked. Which I always had kicker and Rockford fosgate. Soundstream tarantula amps have caught my eye more then skar. But, told this is the place to get a lot of knowledge on amps. I li…

i am ordering knukonceptz 1/0 and im getting my fuses, what size should i get my fuses, i am running 2 from batt to powermaster 2400 and one from powermaster to amp.

I need an amplifier to power my D1 12" Xcon. It was running off of my Rf T-1000bd at around ~750 watts and it sounded absolutely eargasmic... and then I shorted my amplifier. So now I have two choices: Fix the T1000 for $175 and stay at ~750 watt or buy something along the lines of this http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/hifonicsbrz17001d.aspx It may seem obvious to go with the Hifonics because of the obvious difference in power, but it seems like Hifonics isn't the most recommended brand. 1200w @ 2 ohm for $190 just seems to good to be true. What would you recommend I do? If you have any other amplifier suggestions then feel free to throw them out there. I rea…

What is a good 1/0 ofc wire that is comparable to sky high car audio wire

Alright most likely this amp will be powering 2 12" SS RL-P's in a box between 1.75-2^3ft with 20-24^2in of port per sub...tuned to 34hz... Here are the amp choices..price range is under 360.... 1.)Orion 2500D(refurbished from Ikesound kinda worried about that) will be used @ 2 ohms 2.)MA Audio HK-1398 which is 600x2 @ 1ohm stereo, and 1600x1@ 2ohm mono... 3.)Hifonics BX1605D which is 1600@1ohm. All opinions are welcome, please give em to me...Also you guys all seem real knowledgeable so any other Options or Ideas for amps that you might have are more than welcome!!!! THANKS EVERYONE.....

trying to make a couple buss bars for a battery rack and wanted some ideas on what kind of material to use. I stay not too far from a home improvement store and was looking to buy a few flat metal bars. In no way shape or form am I giving my first born for copper lol. I wanted to know would aluminum get too hot? They'll be about 30-36" long x 2" wide x 1/8" thick and I will have about 600amps of current going through them. Or should I use plain steel or steel with zinc plating?

I have one positive run to the back. Will that support a 3500d? I have a 3400 with stock under the hood. I am thinking another 3100 in the back. All grounds are to frame to avoid chopping the car up. Thanks for the help its been awhile since I been here.lol

I was re wiring some amps back up in my jeep today and everything was working fine, including the headunit. I took it out to change the remote wire and put it back in, only to find out it won't turn on at all, completely blank display. I have a Pioneer DEH-1200mp, relatively new. No blown fuses, not under the dash, not on the back of the headunit, nor under the hood. I didn't smell any burnt smell from the headunit.... I really don't see how it could have fried either. Strangely enough, if the remote wire is connected, both of my amps power on without the ignition turning on. so I have to keep it disconnected otherwise the battery will drain. I tried connecting the ignit…

I know it's hard to do apples to apples, different ohm loads "Output Voltage and Impedance 8V/55 " different THD's "Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): 0.008%" yadda yadda...frequency range, voltage. I have been looking to switch from Alpine to Eclipse on the simple thought that Alpine is usually 4-5V where eclipse can be 8V and upwards. Help me out here guys!

I installed a audiopipe 1500 to power a sundown x10 in a ported box. jl audio componants in the front doors jl coaxials in the rear deck running on a jl700/5 the 2012 mustang gt factory hu and lastly the pain in my back is a audiocontrol dq 61. I mounted everything on a wall behind the rear seats just in the trunk. I 2 separate stinger 1/0 for power as well as grounds. My signal is also stinger 9 conductor w/ 2 350amp fuses. the 5th channel on the 700/5 is waiting on jl8w3 mounted in the front doors. I hope there is something my eyes are not catching because the insides sound like tin cans. when I am able to improve the sound I cant turn them up beyond 25% without clip…

so i just replaced my battery two days ago and the battery is already swelling up the next day and today not much has changed. my first guess was heat and still might be, one other info is that the battery is loose not tied down since the bar or battery holding thing that goes across it was to tall to hold the battery in place. so the battery is loose and able to move should i get a new one and tie it down. this battery is the second one and if i replace it it will be the third one from them battery: duralast platinum 34r car toyota camry alt: 130amp from a 2003 highlander(original stock 80 amps)

Edit: I am all over with this post so bear with me.. "That amp you have is junk. You need something better" So this is always the reply I seem to get when someone ask's what I have in the car. I'm 40 years old and have been out of the scene for a while. I put a simple setup on my 2014 Focus ST which consisted of stock headunit and Sony gs 6 1/2 components front and rear, Stock 160 amp alt and 0 ga welding wire to the back. Stock battery and no big 3. After that I used a well worn 12" kicker cvr d2 and a New Hifonics Brutus brx1200.1d I have ran that since Nov of last year and it's been great for my daily routine. I have decided to go to a 15" and ordered a …

I found two mmats for sale on cl in my area guy wants 700.00 for them they are 1400.1 @1ohm. looked them up online really couldnt find any reviews on them. was woundering if anyone had any insight on these amps. Are the under rated, the reason i ask is i have two fi d2 fwfl bl 15s. would these be good amps to push these subs i figure to run one one each. Any help would be great. thanks doogie

i used 4 guage because that what i'm working with

I apologize just looking for opinions for the headunit im going to put in my 2012 jeep compass I plan on running components and a sub and 1 if not two amps I am not used to true sound quality ive always done my stereos half assed before truthfully so trying to do it right don't want touch screen or any unnecessary features I have an android cell phone for the purposes of features of my research the unit I like absolutely best is Pioneer DEH-80PRS also considering Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997 Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Mainly I like the idea of at least 4v preouts I want to try at least a 9 band equalizer with the time synch and other useful things to increase the soun…

Which amp would do better powering 2 12" Gcons? A ppi BK 1800, a hifonics Brutus 1700 or A hifonics Brutus bxi2010 D 2000 watt?

hi, i am looking for a budget 4 channel amp that can do atleast 200rms at @ 2 ohm for a freind and he doesn't want to spend more then 350 on the amp. and i was looking at a Soundstream TRA960.4 for him and i am wondering if anybody has any experiace with them. and another option is a cadence TXA-6004 forgot to mention it will be running a active gront stage with it and the processor is alpine 9887

hi, i have an alpine 9887 hu and also a sax100.4 and a 100.2 and here is what i want to do. an active front stage using the sax100.4 as the processor not the 9887 and have 2 eu700 in the back off of the sax100.2 with a 400 hz lpf for midbass ( already have them so no changing of that) and i need to know would i set the crossovers on the 9887 as a 2.2 3way or a 4.2 system since u have to take out the unit and move the slide i would rather ask then experiment since it is a pita to take out the head unit in my car. and also would it be a l=r or l/r and also i am going to be having subs too that is why the lpf is kinda of high.

I went on crutchfield and read a FAQ for multi amp and it said this You'll need a relay on the turn-on lead to protect your receiver. A relay connected to the power antenna lead draws little current from the receiver, but supplies enough power to turn on all your amps simultaneously. Since I dont have a power antenna I assume I could connect it to the ignition, but why cant I just do like how I want and splice the remote wire to the other amps? Ive never heard of using a relay for this. AND does anyone know of a site where I can browse hi output alternators?

I will be installing this tomorrow.