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Sooooo I feel like a total noob lol. Most amps that can be strapped have a master/slave switch. My atomic AT3000.1s do not. But they are strappable. Now I assume these strap like a saz3000 due to being almost exactly the same amp. Don't post up pointing out differences or bashing my shit. These amps are badass. From what I can see, saz3000 amps do not have a master/slave switch either. Referring to this thread the layout of my atomics are exactly the same minus the fuses of course. On the control/RCA side my amps are exactly the same. So I guess they automatically switch when strapped? Or is there a hidden switch somewhere?
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This is the Orion HCCA-D5000 Output Power at 13.8V: 1 x 1000W @ 4 ohms 1 x 1600W @ 2 ohms 1 x 2500W @ 1 ohm Dimension: 22.8
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I have everything connected right on my amp but it is going to protect mode!! I’ve disconnected everything and connected everything back but still is in protect mode. I have a loc running to my amp on my stock boss radio. Can anyone let me know what am I doing wrong. Also if I connect the remote wire to the amp and conect the battery wire and remote together also my amp turns on idk if that a bad thing or a good thing. Fyi it was working before and one day in the am everything stop working.
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Going to buy another battery for my Durango. It will be in the back with my amps. I already have a die hard platinum under hood and a small stinger in rear. My question is-is there any specific group I should buy for the back, or just the biggest battery I can fit back there?
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In the market for one. so far have looked into db, irragi, cbr electronics, nations, mechman, and just recently spring hill. I've heard of people having issues with mechman and irragi but after doing some reading there could be other reasons why their units failed. Any input on any of these? right now I'm leaning more towards spring hill autoelectric simply because they offer more options for upgrading ie i can order just the parts i need and upgrade the alternator myself and save $100+ that and their customer service has been very responsive about answering my thousand questions. even on the weekend which i thought odd... Anyone have any dealings with them either??
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Okay guys, I'm in a bit of a pickle here. I will be buying an 18" BTL any day now, I'm going to run it with a Sundown SAZ3000.1, at 2 ohms for daily driving and 1 ohm for comps and such, I will back it up with a Kinetik HC1400, and 2 HC1800's, I will also do my Big 3 in 1/0 gauge, my problem is my alternator, it is a stock 90A, I took it in to a shop today to see if they could rewind it and get more juice out of it and they said they couldn't do anything for it, but I talked to Nathan Pedicord from Excessive Amperage about a 225A that would fit. Why am I unable to get it rewound or built up? Do I even need it? Or will the Kinetiks be fine. Any input would be great, thank…
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So my amprack is going to have 3 plexi windows. On the left and right are 2 big windows that show my amps, each with a blue cold cathode to provide lighting. Now in the middle, I'm going to have this smaller piece (big thanks to Mike aka azbass): I want to light up this piece with a different color using an LED. Now, I need yall's opinion/help. a. Should I even put an LED in this piece? b. If so, what exactly do I need to do? - how do I go about installing it? (plexi is 1/4" btw) - what power source should I use? - do I need to buy anything other than the LED like a resistor or anything? c. Should I go with a white, purple/UV LED, or any other color? I kinda don't …
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I'm running 2 Sundown Audio sa15s and my amp has quit on me. I can get a sundown saz 1500 and a RF Power T1500-1bdcp for the same price. Which one would you guys recommend??
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So I finally got my 200a alt installed, but something odd happened when bumping now, I get more dimming, occasionally the amp protects for a moment then cut back on, but my battery voltage is on average higher. I was wondering if the former was due to me having only done the big two, as I have direct power and ground lines; the other, I mean, I think I had it gained a little high and now that it has what it needs, it's clipping like crazy trying to balance with the Sony signal. The hu is becoming a massive headache in that aspect. I lowered the gain, but I really want to be able to run my heat lights and stereo without issue =[ I do have only a single battery for now, I'…
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I have an 18" IA Death Penalty and a Kenwood hu. I am wondering what amps you would recommend for the 18" I also have Kicker KS series speakers amplified on a hifonics zues. basically wondering what amp to get and if facing the subwoofer up or facing it toward the front seats would be better..if I face it up would it be a big noticeable difference. I plan to tune it around 37hz
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I've decided that I would like to put two 10" dcons in my car this spring. Im trying to find an amp that will power them well without spending tons of money. I came across this MB Quart REF 800.1 for $135. Its stable down to 1 ohm and is cea complient. Is this too good to be true? I hear people hate on maxxsonics but it has all the features im looking for. Even if the numbers were skewed a bit I would still only need about 600w rms. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_25536_MB-Quart-REF1.800-REF-1.800.html
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i was looking for amps to power 2 or 3 fi btl 18 subs which each rms at 3000, i was going to get two because amps were really expensive and didnt have enough money but then i came across the kicker wx10000 for 1600 dollars i though was a really good price do you guys know any other amps that have good prices. what do you guys think about this amp and how would i connect it? http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifiers/NEW-KICKER-WARHORSE-07WX10000.1-CAR-AMPLIFIER-WX10000.1/07WX10000.1.aspx btw i dont know much about car audio i only know a few stuff
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i had needed to get guided in the right direction on purchasing an h/0 alternator. just need to know how big of an alt i need to get to run 4000 rms (2 subs) or 2000rms (1 sub) thanks!!!!
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Well the title pretty much says it all. I am looking for an amplifier that pushes approximately 1500 watts at 1.5 ohms. My price limit is 400 bucks, maybe 450 if it was really worth it, but if it can be a lot lower, awesome.
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I just bought a 2011 Mazda 3 and I am getting a HU but I need help on which one would be the best bang for my buck. Now I'm not looking for something cheap quality, but something hopefully below $250 if it's a single din and if it's a double, then below $400 if possible. What my main concerns in a HU are is that it has an AUX in, 4V or higher, subwoofer, preferably lots of options to customize my speakers sounds, such as EQ, Bass, Treble, and all that jazz. If I do get a double din, it should fit in this, shouldn't it? http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/2010-mazda-3-4dr-sdn-auto-i-touring-photos.htm?photo=1745325&perspective=interior Features which I would re…
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My Amp is Flickering back and forth out of protect and power..Ive changed the fuses..I have changed the power wire connenction and all...I'm outta Suggestions..Need Help Bad
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I just aquired a DieHard platinum group 35 battery. I also have a kinetic hc600. Would they be safe to run in parallel together?
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I know it depends on the vehicle or whatever but , would a power acoustik bamf amp 5500d power two 15" Fi SSDs better then a hifonics brutus 1200.1d ? i have the Hifonics amp now and it hits but now as hard as when it was hooked up to one 15. Yes i know power acoustik is not that great.
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hey everyone! Sorry for another "Vs." thread, but i would deeply appreciate any help I dont know which amp to get? the memphis prd 1000.1 or the sundown 1000D, what are some pros and cons of each amp, and what amp will suit me best with a FI Q12 with a 2007 honda accord with stock power Thanks
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What does everyone think of a denon DCT-1? I know a friend who has one that i might be able to snag cheap!
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My friend is planning to buy 1 RE 12" from the RE gruop buy, and i was wondering what amp will i need to power one of these? how much watts do i need for these subs?
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Well I read all of the instructions and whatnot but it seems I have ran into a strange, very strange problem. I soldered it according to the manual and the wiring harness and have three people double check my work and its done correctly. It seems I have to manually turn the cdplayer on and off no matter what state the car is in (on or off). Before when I had my old radio in whenever you took the key out it would turn off the cdplayer but not in this case. Any suggestions? Anything I should check (most of it has been double and triple by two or more people). I am just out of ideas. Its a 2003 VW Passat. I believe I did red to red wire and they both had a power sticker on i…
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Well, instead of posting all this in the build log, i'll just post it here because i have a question anyways. I have\had 2 of these amps strapped together. When i first strapped them up, after several minutes, the slave went up in smoke. It was concluded that the input stage on the amp got damaged. There was no audio coming through either amp when i first tried using these. I tried using just the master. No signal at the time until i unplugged the rcas from the HU then plugged em back in... been working ever since, odd but no probs now. Got the slave amp back in and i did not have any subs hooked up to em when i had em strapped again but the slave amp went up in smoke …
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How would I do this?with out fring my pcm and etc?
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i've had my sae 1200d for 5months now. Yesterday when i was bumpin it a fuse blew. I replaced the blown fuse and everything was working fine. Today when i was listening to it at low volume, well my volume goes up to 30 and i put it at 23-24, so anyway i played it at 15 and nothing happened. When i put my bass to +3 its usually on -3 the fuse blew again. How can i fiz this issue?? If this is a voltage problem im going to get an xs battery soon, money is tight right now so i had to choose between some second skin or the battery. And so i bought 20sqft of damplifier and it sounds GREAT, MAJOR difference, it cleared up the sound and theres no more rattle. But anyway what shou…
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