Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Has anyone used these alts? Anyone used them on a Silverado with the 6.0L? How do they compare to other big brands?

Ok so some of you may have read my other thread about the RF amp. Well I put my AQ 4X90 back in and bridged it on my fronts and got a naaaasty engine whine. I checked the ground, it was tight. I tried both my sub rca's and another pair of rca's they both make the noise. Sub amp makes no noise. When I disconnect the rca's the noise stops. I moved the ground so that my sub amp and the AQ's grounds were seperate, still got the noise. The noise stays loud regardless of head unit volume. I put the RF amp back in and it makes the same noise. I'm very clueless and frustrated. I followed the noise guide but none of it helped.

I have a Rockford-Fosgate T-1000bd and earlier today i was playing my friends sub on my amp fine and then i took his out and put mine back in. After I did this the amp is staying in protect mode. The light turns on (blue power) and whenever a bass note hits the protect light will come on in unison with the bass and no sound is produced. I am positive I have my BL wired down to 1 ohm. Any suggestions? more information you need? heeeeeeelp Stock electrical btw on a 2005 grand prix gt.

i am using a dmm to tune my amp. and the voltage i am supposed to reach is 38.73 for 1500 watts. the first time i tried i got it by maxing out the gain and then some bass boost. i have the hu at 32 out of 42 and all eq settings at 0. but i adjusted the frequency and tried again and now i can get it back up as high as it was even when putting it back where it was before. whats the problem? and where should i have my bass knob set at while tuning it? i have done the big 3 and have a stinger spp1500d under the hood with 1/0 running to the amp and have a power acoustik ptid-8310nrbt radio and am going to be using a dc xl 12 if this helps any

Hey all, Got the prototypes in my hands today . Very satisfied with the quality of the work done! I will edit this thread tomorrow with tested power results. 1500W (0 GA Power Terminals) @ 1 Ohm is the first amp 800W (4 GA Power Terminals) @ 1 Ohm is the second amp Will post estimated pricing shortly as well! These are designed to be some brutal class D amps as you SPL enthusiasts have come to expect, so I think you will be very pleased!

why do people think you have to use the same brand amp as the driver?

So i bought 2 15" fi btl's off a friend and i was wondering if a rf t2500bdcp amp would be ok for both subs at .5ohms? I dont compete and i play mostly spanish music...my electrical consist of a 270a alt and 3 xs3200 batts...all 0/2 gauge wire...

well heres the WHOLE stroy on the deal. i seen the aq3500 on craigslist for $300. last week, i texted the guy and asked if i could put down $75 and he hold it for me so no one else would scoop it up from under me. he said it was cool. i gave him the 75. yesterday, he texted me back and said he was moving and needed cash bad and asked how much i had in my pocket. i said $75. he said meet me and the same place as before and its urs for asnother 75. so needless to say i high tailed it to mcdonalds lol. got it for $150!! took it to my local audio shop to have him test it this morning. powers on fine, and plays 100%. honestly i thought something had to be wrong with it but i g…

I am just curious I have been digging and come up with nothing. I know its not really good to underpower subs..... lets say on the highs and mids the amps tuned according to desired but the powers not there....... bad?

So I couldnt pass up the deal on the SA line on here and purchased an SA-12 last night. Now it needs an amp. The car has a small alt, 70 amps. I want to keep it all under 1000rms. I will be running a 2 channel that makes 140rms total so I'm looking to give the sub anywhere from 500-750rms at 2 ohms. 600 would be ideal for me. My budget is 220 with shipping. What would you suggest? So far all I can think of is either an MB quart onx 1000.1D, a kicker ZX500.1 or a DX1000.1 (makes 50rms more than the ZX)

Got my alternator in and hooked up today, but had a few issues. First of all, the new alt came with a different plug. One of the wires was longer than the other three, and it was in the exact same place that there was a wire on the original plug (the original is a 4-pin, but there is only one wire leading into it. This one wire is in the same location as the one long wire in the new plug). I decided to just use the old plug, as the other three plugs on the new pin are insignificant. We fired it up, and it made a low humming sound and began to smoke. I smelled something funny, not necessarily burning but kind of like it. I have never seen an alternator smoke before, so it …

Im going to be ordering my new head unit later on today, but I would like to know if anyone has/used this type before and how well it works, I'm getting it because it has 3 pre-amp settings and had a USB and AUX port on it, my old head unit has neither of these and I'm only using CD's which get scratched way too easily. Thanks guys. heres a link to view it http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_35579_Clarion-CZ501.html

Like the title says, im looking at a AQ3500. im not sure if its the old one or the new one so i have a few questions i would like to ask..... 1. how can u tell the difference between the new and old one? 2. how much do they go for in good condition and 3. is there naything specific i need to be looking for when im looking at the amp??? I looked on **** and seen them going for 550-600 shipped and i have the chance to get one for...... well id rather not say until its a done deal. let just say its a GOOD deal haha. LMK fellas. thanks

here is the situation, i was going to install my new alternator, when i took the belt off the old alt, i noticed something, even though i had all the tensioner down, it didnt come out easily, wasnt a really hard task, but was unusual then, when i installed everything, i was going to put on the belt, but couldnt put it in place, it needed just a bit more to enter, and a friend suggested me to put a longer belt what are your opinions, but would need them fast, need to do it before going to school tomarrow

ok so i have a 1997 cavalier and in it is 2 12 inch sundown audio sa-12's, 1 saz-1500D on 1 ohm, a box that is tuned to 28ish and has about 4.5 cubes including my port. I also have a kinetik hc800 hooked up to this system. I am using a Kenwood eXcelon kdc-x395 head unit with 4 gauge wire all around and no big 3 atm. My problem is that when i have this system turned up past 30 (max is 35) on certain songs my deck will shut off and it turns my subs off too, and seems to reboot it self and then resumes playing, and i have no idea why. i dont have the volume maxed either i never go above 33 unless the songs arent very bassy, like with eminem and some other rappers with light …

So i want to upgrade. But not immediately. like. May not upgrade for a whiiile. But have chance to get a bigger amp. so total hypothetical. I currently have an AQ1200 in my truck with full 4 gauge wires off stock alt and batt. could I, run an 2k amp off of this set up. Never goin over like, probably quarter gain to half. (prollly long time before that amp would clip) 2k amp being a db drive okur 2k. I know anything above 1.5k comes with 1/0 inputs. But could i run it off of the 4 gauge til i can upgrade the rest of the set up is my basic question. Any of your guys' vast knowledge would be great!! thanks in advance!

AVH-P5200BT I can buy one today brand new for 450.00 I like it because of the 4v Pre Out, the 8 band EQ and watching music videos would be cool. I think it'd be a nice upgrade from my Alpine IDA-x305s that got stolen. Thoughts?

Hey fellas.... Just got this HU installed the other day... Lovin' it soo far.. Some questions: Slope - I have the option of 6db, 12db, or 18db for the subwoofer... Currently I have it at 18db with a cutoff of 100hz ... Good/bad? Ideas? I don't have a great front stage so I thought going up that high would help with overall sound... On the speakers I have them crossed at 125hz with a 12db slope instead of a 6db since I don't want the speakers to sound like crap going below that 125hz... Am I doing this correctly?? Last thing I need to ask... This HU has a voltage read out for the battery???? WTF hugesurprisewhenIsawthisinthedisplay!!!! Is that a true voltage reader or ina…

anyone have any expierence with these amps ?? i found someone willing to trade one for my 2 hifonics brz2400.1 amps and some cash... just wanna make sure it does 10kwrms though before i trade....

needs some opinions on a good 1/2 din eq for under 150. just what some people are using. the main thing that i want is two inputs not aux just frt and rear with three outputs but if i have to i can do without.

this is gonna sound dumb, but I know very little about running active set ups. I'm not planning on it anytime soon, but just trying to be better informed. Google has been no help. My question is how are the rca's ran in a situation like this: any old HU with front, rear, and sub preouts a good 4 channel like a SAX100.4 or similar standard 2 way com set with mid and tweeter. A diagram would help. Thanks Also same thing but with an active 3-way set up I'm just very curious about the signal

Hello, I am in the process of deciding what I should do. I used to have a 180A alternator and it went bad. I sent it back to get fixed, and they quoted me $170 to build it back to 180A, or basically to fix it. However, they said that for $100 more, they can rebuild it to 200A. (I took it apart just for fun when I sent it back to them, just for fun, and it looked like it was a completely stock alternator which I thought was weird, but then again, I don't know what, besides rectifier diodes, is used to make an OEM alternator a high output alternator. What I do know is that I must've paid close to $350 for it back in 2006.) Anyways, when my system will consist of, will be: …

it will be my first time buying a high output alternator what else would i need other than a deepcycle battery and voltmeter thank you

well im saving for a new head unit, my old jvc is not reading my mp3 cds well, the remote wire is burnt, and does not have a direct connection for my ipod i was think about getting a kenwood(http://www.crutchfield.com/s_113KDCX595/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X595.html?search=kenwood+car+stereo) but found this jvc with a monitor and gps, but is refurbished(http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9842_JVC-KD-NX5000-R-B.html) which one would be better, it is going on a 2000 silverado, and my interior lights is blue, just in case

When i try to turn on my truck it crancks but then it doesnt go on.. I try again and it clicks...if i get a jump it starts and it shows normal voltage...i unplugged my system but it still keeps on doing it...plus i have the big 3 and the fuse from alt to batt melted...not blown just melted the casing...