Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I recently upgraded amps from a cheap boss audio and got a sound stream 6000ld, its a 3000 rms amp and i had a 800 rms amp previously but the sound stream sounds weaker than the old cheap amp, can someone tell me why that might be?

I picked up an Orion 2250 SX on OfferUp for $75 (happy birthday to me!). It was advertised as not-working, but it looks good visually and I thought I MIGHT want it repaired. The problem is I can't find anyone who repairs the older stuff. Amp Medics is 40 minutes from my house, but Steve stopped fixing the old ones (parts are impossible to get). DB-R stopped fixed legacy amps back in 2010. So, anyone know anyone who is willing and able to fix my Beast? (I know technically only the Orion XTR 2250 was called the Beast, but I choose to ignore that fact).

So Friday I did a thing....ordered a new Jeep. Needless to say im pretty stoked. I ordered it with the Sound+Leather Upgrade. But did not opt for the $700 430 HU. Now im looking for a decent in dash to replace the 130 radio. Im just not quite sure what to look for...the last HU/Processor i bought was about 6 years ago (Alpine d310+h701) Thoughts/Suggestions/Links Please! Thank you in advance https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-X2800BS-Receiver-Bluetooth-SiriusXM-Ready/dp/B017LKVCIK/ref=sr_1_5?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1491101412&sr=1-5&keywords=double din&refinements=p_89%3AKenwood|Pioneer https://www.amazon.com/Kenwo…

So as of yesterday I now have a small amount of noise creeping in . Nothings changed . I have two batteries under the hood , both are grounded to the frame with 0 gauge. The alt body is grounded to one of the batteries. All the amps are grounded to a distribution block which is grounded to the frame ,and body . I'm going to check all the connections , but am I doing something wrong. I never had any noise before yesterday.

How well do these work? I was looking for a way to clean up the wires a little and allow moving the amp in and out a little easier. Was just worried about how well they stay put or if they come loose easily?

https://www.amazon.com/Android-Lollipop-1024x600-Mitsubishi-Bluetooth/dp/B0153N4EIC

I'd like to get some feed back on a idea I had for a busbar I was going to use these since my battarys are top post https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pair-Universal-Brass-Car-Battery-Terminal-Clamp-Clips-Connector-Gold-Tone/178886665?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=571&adid=22222222228052157017&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=152604451174&wl4=pla-265686942388&wl5=9016899&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111838760&wl11=online&wl12=178886665&wl13=&veh=sem Battary (5 g31 105ah per) https://m.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232

This going to be my first time installing both a ho alt an wiring/installing a battary bank I feel like for the most part I know what I'm doing but idk how many runs of ofc 0 gauge I need from my front batt (duracell AMG 55ah) to rear bank (5 duracell AMG g31 105ah) 580ah total *My battary bank is going in the middle of my van I'm thinking 8-10 ft runs of wire* maybe less 240 mechman alt Sound qubed q1-7000 probably going with skyhigh ofc 0 gauge

Currently I'm only running 2 amps and just run the remote wire from my HU to both amps, but I'm going active and will be adding a Kicker Front Row and possibly an Audio Control EQL. I don't think the single remote turn on from the HU will power all 4 components and I'm looking into relays. I hit BCAE1 and I think I need a 12V 40amp relay, but the wiring diagram shows a distribution block for the remote wires in 16 gauge. Where would I find one? What do you guys do? I looked at autoparts stores (I will not pay $6 shipping for a $5 part) and found relays but I'm clueless as to where to find distribution blocks that small.

Looking for a new amp under 300$? Any good suggestions?

I'm looking for some experiences, reviews, and/or opinions from those whom use small amplifiers. Post your brand, model, and opinions. Thanks!

So I just picked up a box and 2x10 Rockford Fosgate subs for my Ram. So the subs are 4 ohm 150watt RMS each with a peak of 300watt. Here's the problem. I listen to rock mainly so I don't care about a TON of bass, but I do like a good amount. The subs are bridged or whatever, and that's where I don't know what amp to get without spending a fortune. The two subs don't have two wires each I guess that's what bridged means? So my question is, what channel, RMS, ohm all that stuff, what would be the best amp for me? I'm so lost and the audio guy near my house is just trying to make money off of me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

What upgrades are needed to run a Sundown 2k? Some people say HO alt and some don't. What do you all think? Going in a 2005 Cavalier. Not trying to buy a HO alt if I don't need to. Thanks

I have the big 3 done, double runs of 0ga, sundown wire 270 alternator , m4b amplifier 3 3400 xs battries in trunk volts are at 14.3 but when up loud bass note hits and volts drop to 10 showing on bass control knob....p.s. Digital design 9900 series subs are wired to .5 ohm Do I need more xs battries ???

Alrighty, 2001 honda civic sedan ES1. Singer 320 Amp alternator. Came with a black bracket for the bottom and a spacer for the top. Was suggested to get a smaller belt by other people but it won't even go on with the factory size belt. Bottom brackets do not line up at all. Don't really know what to do. Pics Alt with black bottom mounting bracket Alt mounted on top with belt on. Where the black bracket provided does not come close to fitting with the factory adjustable bracket.

Hi guys! Its been awhile since I have last been on here. So after many tests of swapping speakers/ crossovers, checking RCAs it comes down to my amp has an issue with the speaker outputs on the left side of the outputs only. The right side works completely fine after swapping speaker wires from left to right. There is sound, but its very fuzzy/dull and almost sounds blown. Can this easily be fixed maybe? Maybe from a member on here? The amp is an Orion 600 watt 2 Channel amp. The amp was maybe purchased in 2007/2008 brand new. Maybe just the age and daily wear and tear its time for a new one? Thanks guys!!

About to be doing an install in a newer charger and a dash kit for an after market radio is like $500 so just tring to see what the best option would be if the customer is not trying to spend 500 on just a dash kit . . Just going to be adding a sub and amp

I have a chance to buy a used Orion hcca 1000.2 amp for less than 70 bucks and the person said it works. Is this a good deal or sounds shady?

I have an old KENWOOD kdc138 in my Mazda Tribute currently .. It only has one pre-out which the manual says the pre-out is for the rear/sub signal out .. Currently I have a mono block that is receiving the signal from the pre-out. What I want to do is add an external amp for the front and rear with still keeping my mono block. How can I do this all with only one pre-out? Another question is what is the difference between the front signal and rear signal pre-outs on a receiver that has multiple pre-outs?

Ok I have a dual brand double din trying to hookup to the pac rp5 gm31 to retain chimes steering wheel controls etc on my 08 silverado....the harness off the pac unit for SWc has the option for a 3.5mm jack and a blue wire yellow stripe..the 3.5 mm jack won't work because the dual double din doesn't have a plug for it....the dual stereo has a swg(ground) and sw1 and sw2....what needs hooked up I can't find answers anywhere on this any help would be appreciated

I’m trying to see if someone can answer this question for me in simple terms. Basically I want to know what is going to happen to my signal as it’s going to be transferred and how multiple equalizers, crossovers, and gains will affect it. So basically, my head unit has a built in equalizer and crossover (they’re not that great though.) From my head unit the signal will go to an external equalizer I have. From the equalizer the signal is going to go into a stetsom 3way 6 channel crossover. The crossover is a crossover (obviously). From the stetsom crossover the signal will go into my full range amps. I have 2 amps, one for mids and one for highs. Now to make things even …

I just spun myself out on this, I feel like I know the answer but fuck it If i'm running an amp that draws 400a rms, and I have a 200a alt, a g31 under the hood 4/0 to the rear bank, and 6 g31's in the rear, I fuse appropriate for the wire always, not the peak rating of my alternator yes? something like, 300a for 4/0 iirc. If I already plug up the bank and charge it fairly often (once a week), no real concern for such a small alt supporting that bank, correct?

so i went to spl show and wanted to see what my two sq hds200 dual 2ohm that is wired for a 2ohm load and even checked them with d.m.m and shows 2.1ohms but my mtx thunder 1501d older style no elite suppose to do 1500wrms@2ohms with 14.4volts has 2gauge welding wire and at the car audio show it only clamped 844watts. Im wondering why is this and is there something im missing here and how to fix this to get my wattage up because my spl score in my 00 s10 ext cab was only 142.3 on dash http://www.termpro.com/asp/officialevent.asp?EventID=15579&Method=1000 name is david downs i entered the hardcore truck so i could have door open driver side and then unlimited car truck…

I forgot to rewire the BTL to 4ohm when I swapped it with my 15's in the HT, and while I was doing so, I began to wonder, if my amp is only 4ohm stable, how does it function exactly, under 4ohm? (I had it wired at 1ohm for the Neer) For example, if you sweep the box, and you measure your entire playable range, and it never exceeds the rated RMS of the amp, say you're wired at one quarter rated minimum like me, and you have it set conservatively, and safe, does that prevent premature failure that low impedance is known for? Is that how people run amps at .25 daily and shit since it's only passing the rated amount of power through? I always assumed they did that for comp…

Hi guys, I have recently been saved by a cheap voltmeter plugged into the cig-lighter 12v input. It showed me I was loosing voltage badly. I found something was burning under the hood. The plastic on the wire coming from the positive post on the battery to the alt was bad, and the cooper was touching a metal part. I took it off, and now everything is ok. The alternator works as usual. But now I want a better voltmeter. This one is 8 years old ! I want something small enough to fit anywhere. I won't cut anything in the dash to have it mounted, so I liked the cig lighter plug a lot. Which model do you run ? And second question : if it's…