Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ok, I'm going to make this short.... Who in their right mind would design an amplifier capable of producing upwards of 1000 watts of output, but supplies the cheesiest little friggin power connectors to run it?! I just spent hours trying to figure out how to connect 4 gauge wire to a set of crappy little power connectors that could only accept 10 gauge at most. I finally ended up using a piece of airplane cable and cable sleeve to "step the wire down" to an appropriate diameter. I was to two different "car audio shops" here in the city and explained my dilemma. All I got was a sorry, can't help you. What do you guys do when faced with this situation?

hey guys i am going to be buying an SI d2 in a few weeks and i need a more powerful amp and i only have about 250 i found a hifonics brutus 1500 watt amp on ebay for 225 buy now is it worth it or should i get a rocksford fosgate power 1001bd for 250 thanks

Would going from ~130w to 300w each amongst 4 infinity 1252w's be worth the strain on my car's electrical system? It would only be a difference of 3, maybe 4 decibels. Would a high output alternator be necessary for 1200w, as well as a deep cycle battery? Or should I stick with the setup I have, and not have to dump around $500 into the electrical system of a car I don't plan on keeping? I could always take my battery, so I might get that if it would make a difference on it's own. My lights dim really bad, but even when I step on the brake or roll up a window w/ out the stereo on. My grounds are good, but perhaps my headlight ground is bad? Sorry, I know this ended…

Downsizing my equipment and looking for a new amp to power 1 xcon. Just looking for a awesome mono amp 500-1500w @ 2ohms. Trying to keep it under $250 and not in a rush, hoping to come across some black friday deals. Any recommendations? So far I've came across http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34764_Rockford-Fosgate-R1200-1D.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68122_RE-Audio-USX-45KV.1.html and the IA 10.1 or sae-1000d

im lookin into buyin an 15" or 18" FI BL subwoofer and ive been intrested in these 2 amps my question is what amp would be a better choice for the sub?? thanks

Are they any good? The ones in question are the GD-6001 and AP-3001. Do they do rated power? How durable are they? How is the build quality and reliabity? I know that the GD-6001 is CEA Compliant so it should do rated if not more but I am worried about the quality of the amps. I want first hand experience not what people have heard. Thanks in advance for the feedback.

I am planning on putting a system in my stock 05 Dodge ram 1500 Quad-cab and wanted to know if my electrical could handle it if i added a couple of batterys in the back? I don't want to buy a alt because i will be getting rid of the truck in about a year or so. the amp will push one DC lvl4XL or Lvl5 I have the whole back seat to work with for space If anyone needs any other specs just ask. Thanks for help in advance.

http://blog.sounddomain.com/gadget/2008/07...-stuff-you.html Nice

I thought this might make a worth while thread for anyone getting ready to buy wire/cable and wants to shop around. This isn't meant to do any bashing, it's just to let people know what they can expect when ordering some wire. If you care to add to the comparison, please have at least two varieties compared(don't just post a pic of some wire). List the Manufacturer, Size, and location of purchase. From left to right... 1. Royal/Excelene 1/0 weldingsupply.com 2. ToughFlex 2/0 weldingsupply.com 3. SHCA 1/0 soundsolutionsaudio.com

Last week my CDA-9886 started doing this thing where, from what I've noticed, at high volumes it will just restart in the middle of a song and keep restarting unless I turn it down. Running 1 Treo SSX 12 powered by an RD 1750.1D at .5 ohms for 2500 watts. Got a nice wal mart bat up front with 800 cca and a shuriken bt100 in the back, big 3 and all 0 gauge of course. Talked to the guy who's sold me RD stuff before and he said if it were the amp it wouldn't making the HU restart like that...which I pretty much knew. From what I gathered it's either a loose wire or worse, the HU isn't getting enough amps because of a shitty power cord to it... just wanted to get some opinion…

Im considering on buying one of these head units and would like to know if you guys have any opinion on which one you think is better. In terms of sound quality, functionality, features, ipod use

so I just upgraded my sub and amp. I went from two MTX Roadthunder 12's in a prefab with a Bazooka EL500.1 amp to A DD2510 in a custom ported box with JBL GTO7001 amp. I bought it from my friend. it was loud in his car (a neon) but not quite as loud as my old crappier 12's in my car( a camry). Nothing has changed about the setup except what car its in. My head unit is a JVC KW-NX7000, if that has anything to do with it. We just put it in today and I'm kind of a noob at car audio( I can wire stuff up, I'm just not as versed in the intricacies of it all). I haven't really messed with the settings on the amp yet. Right now it has a nice clear bump for when I listen to rock b…

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Currently I'm only running 2 amps and just run the remote wire from my HU to both amps, but I'm going active and will be adding a Kicker Front Row and possibly an Audio Control EQL. I don't think the single remote turn on from the HU will power all 4 components and I'm looking into relays. I hit BCAE1 and I think I need a 12V 40amp relay, but the wiring diagram shows a distribution block for the remote wires in 16 gauge. Where would I find one? What do you guys do? I looked at autoparts stores (I will not pay $6 shipping for a $5 part) and found relays but I'm clueless as to where to find distribution blocks that small.

Can you hook up a set of 2ohm speakers on the front channels and 4ohm set on the rear channels of a four channel amp?

I have a memphis 16-MC2000D The guy i got if from said it was moded? How do i find out it this is actually true?

Alright guys I'm new to the scene and I need help with my setup. I've gone through 3 amp in the past 5 months. I have had very very bad luck keeping amps alive in my car for very long. Well the amp that I have been having problems with is a Hifonics Brutus 2100.1d. I Have 2 FI BL's fully loaded in a custom made box. The amp is mounted to the top of the box in a recessed in amp rack. I spent the better half of my Friday troubleshooting my system with the manufacturer on the phone to figure out what the problem is but couldnt figure it out. I checked my grounds and rca's and power. The only thing I found wrong is that it wasn't getting the 14.4 volts it asks for to push i…

I currently have a CDA-9855, but the CD player is starting to skip rather easily. I want to know what would be some good HUs. I'd like it to have HPFs and a LPF with adjustable slopes,2 way and 3 way xovers, graphic eq and/or parametric eq, time correction, full speed ipod/iphone capability. I think the 9887 is nice but does anyone have experience with them as well as "imprint"? Thanks

Alright guys..i have an Eclipse TI series 12" running in my truck. Right now i have a kenwood kac7202 with 4gauge wiring and a 1F capacitor. The amp doesnt put out enough power..so Should i buy a mono block amp or 2 channel and bridge it? And what amps do you recoment for this sub? my budget is not huge so take it easy on me lol.. Any help it all getting more sound outa this thing will be aprreciated!

I was wondering if anybody used these X2 Power Batteries, supposedly they are rebranded North Stars made for Batteries Plus. Looking at electrical upgrades and an underhood battery is my first step, I can grab these batteries locally plus they come with a great warranty. Looking for any input, thanks fellas.

I bought a KICKER 11VS12L72 ("that box has a dual 4 woofer wired down to a 2 ohm load. So you want an amp that is 2 Ohm stable") And I'm trying to find recommendations from the experts for an amp. I am leaning towards the SoundStream DTR1.1700D that is on a sale for $188 online. Might buy it tonight if I don't find anything better.

Hello all! In today's day and age many vehicles have controls on the steering wheel for controlling functions and features of your factory sound system. Many are discouraged from moving to an aftermarket head unit for the sole reason that they would then lose these controls. Well fear no more! This video will show you my experience with the Axxess ASWC - Steering Wheel Control Interface. I found this interface to be extremely easy to use, easy to install, and easy to program. Following the steps outlined within the vehicle will have you well on your way to controlling an aftermarket head unit with your factory steering wheel controls. I hope you enjoy!

Okay, this is the deal; my current 3SIXTY.2 broke (it's the second one which has broken). The red light keeps blinking and according to Rockford Fosgate it means the Bluetooth chip on the 3SIXTY.2 is broken. I also contacted Rockford Fosgate Europe, they can repair it, but it will cost me 200 Euro's!!! That's insane! Anyways, I am thinking about ditching the Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2 and go for a different brand. The only options I have found so far are: - JBL MS-8 (still not in production, wait will be to long) - Audison Bit-1 (still not in production, wait will be to long) - Macrom EXT.A1DSP (expensive, looks like a redone PPI DCX 730) - PPI DCX 730 (hard to get, no su…

Lately my 1000/1 amp has been cutting out while playing loud music. right after it cuts out it starts back up in a few seconds. I looked at the amp while it shuts down and its giving the thermal protect light. for the last week it has been cutting off more and more often. Finally last night it bumped the volume up and it shut down and did not turn back on. I checked out my main power fuse from the front battery and it was blown? I have a 05 4-runner 1000/1 v1 powering a 13w7 wired @3 ohm stock head unit/speakers Big 3 stock alt no extra batteries 4 gauge power wire Had a extra optima in the trunk but took it out thinking the amp didn't need it since the 1000/1 has the vo…

What about channel separation, is it important when shopping for a car amp? If so, minimum value? What am I supposed to look for when choosing among the different makes and models? Which parameters, par price is most important? I would like to get suggested minimum and maximum values where appropriate. Values are for me like a walking stick, I doubt my progress without it/them. Not as face value, but more as a guidance. This is just for the gross sorting phase, to keep the numbers of prospects as low as possible. I am looking for a 4 channel amp, with at least 4 x 100W @ 4 ohm to drive my front system. The amount of information on some home pages are appallingly sparse, I…