Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Discuss Head Units, Amplification, Processors, And All Electrical System Inquiries Here.
5,712 topics in this forum
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a friend of mine is looking at getting a new system in his grand prix. so im gonna to hook him up with a dcon 12 but i need an amp that will run it safely. maybe a 500w @ 1 ohm. or a 1000w wired down or something along thoes lines. let me know what for amps i should look at but his price range would probably be around 300-350 for everything.
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so do caps actually work or what?
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Hey Guys, I am going to have a yellow top under the hood and a spare bat in the trunk. What I was wondering is how do you wire these? Do you run them in series and then the amp from the rear batt? Josh
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Gonna buy a single 10" or 12" X or Icon, which ever pops up in the classifieds first. Will be in a .8-9 cuft fiberglass box sealed, polyfilled 1-2lb iirc. This is an under seat setup for a 4 door dodge pickup. I've seen the black ice has been proving a decent amp for the money. Just want to get any last opinions or reasons to not get it and go with something else. I don't want to spend more than $200-250 on an amp at the moment. Thanks!
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Anyone know anything or had first-hand experience with these amps? I'm looking into buying one based on rep, but haven't had a listen to them. Any info is welcome. Thanks all.
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What about channel separation, is it important when shopping for a car amp? If so, minimum value? What am I supposed to look for when choosing among the different makes and models? Which parameters, par price is most important? I would like to get suggested minimum and maximum values where appropriate. Values are for me like a walking stick, I doubt my progress without it/them. Not as face value, but more as a guidance. This is just for the gross sorting phase, to keep the numbers of prospects as low as possible. I am looking for a 4 channel amp, with at least 4 x 100W @ 4 ohm to drive my front system. The amount of information on some home pages are appallingly sparse, I…
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well my friend bought subs, an amp, and a box from bestbuy. so i told him to let me install it but he said his neighboor has alot of experience (which wasnt true). so any way the guy hooked it all up. he did a nice job on the electrical wiring but when wiring subs to the amp he ran the wires in series which presented an 8ohm load and the amp isnt made for 8 ohms. he was supposed to run them in parallel. im not sure y it worked but it did. then my friend said the amp kept shutin off after a few minutes of play, but then would turn back on in about 7 seconds. but my friend kept on bumpin for like an hour. then i went over there today and rewired the subs in parellel and we …
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hi, i have 2 questions: one how can a person determine how many and which kind of battery's a person needs ( like CCA Ah, etc) for around 2.5k rms and also do you have to fuse a ground run?
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I have the big 3 done, double runs of 0ga, sundown wire 270 alternator , m4b amplifier 3 3400 xs battries in trunk volts are at 14.3 but when up loud bass note hits and volts drop to 10 showing on bass control knob....p.s. Digital design 9900 series subs are wired to .5 ohm Do I need more xs battries ???
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i was just wondering if anyone knows how much a Memphis 16-MC1.1500 would cost?
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Hey, guys. I could really use to help. I have a side by side with an audio system consisting of a tiny Bluetooth “head unit” with a strange DIN audio output, a 4 channel amp, 4 6x9s, and a 10” subwoofer. (Made by Pro Box). All this stuff is in the roof of the vehicle. I want to add another subwoofer to the system. How can I add another amp? I’m attaching photos of the head unit, amplifier, and a cable that I think might be my solution but I’m not sure. I believe the mini din wire is the audio output from the head unit and that there are no red and white RCA cables. I could be wrong. I have not torn into the roof enclosure yet. If someone has knowledge of t…
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Anyone know of a good voltmeter for the single-din spot don't like the look of that emptiness. I know of stinger but want a smoother look.
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Well I was driving around my area full tilt today no problems. But when i took my 20 min drive to work after about 15 min of playing full tilt it starts going into protect. Only when its loud though. Anyone know what could be the problem? I double checked all my wiring im pretty sure its all right the fact that it only goes into protect at the loudest volume. My thinkings are though Could my rca's put out a bad signal? I am only running 4g to my ground could that not be effecient enough? I dont have my wired fused coming off the second battery but the distance is very short could that be the problem? Also earlier i did accidently put the power wire into the ground input s…
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Hey was just wanderin if anyone here has heard anything bad or good about RD Audio Amps any help would be thankful
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guys i was wondering about a system that has say 10 amps & a couple of processors if the remote wire voltage from a typical deck will be sufficient or safe to turn on all of these or will a relay be needed to help boost the turn out voltage ? what is usually the voltage out from a deck ? what voltage is required for amps or processors to turn on ?
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So Friday I did a thing....ordered a new Jeep. Needless to say im pretty stoked. I ordered it with the Sound+Leather Upgrade. But did not opt for the $700 430 HU. Now im looking for a decent in dash to replace the 130 radio. Im just not quite sure what to look for...the last HU/Processor i bought was about 6 years ago (Alpine d310+h701) Thoughts/Suggestions/Links Please! Thank you in advance https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-X2800BS-Receiver-Bluetooth-SiriusXM-Ready/dp/B017LKVCIK/ref=sr_1_5?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1491101412&sr=1-5&keywords=double din&refinements=p_89%3AKenwood|Pioneer https://www.amazon.com/Kenwo…
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Brand new Powerbass xta-1500d or used digital design m1b Xta-1500d Features: 1-ohm Stable Class D Circuitry Dual-link Circuitry Oversize Power, Ground and Speaker Terminals Variable Electronic Low Pass Crossovers Variable Electronic Sub-Sonic Filter Variable Electronic Bass EQ Self-Diagnostic Protection Circuitry Variable Remote Gain Control Specifications: Channels (mono): 1 Output Power (14.4 V) @ 1 ohm: 1500 watts Output Power (14.4 V) @ 2 ohm: 850 watts Output Power (14.4 V) @ 4 ohm: 450 watts Strapped Output Power @ 2ohms: 3,000 watts Frequency Response: 18 Hz -250 Hz Total Harmonic Distortion: <0.1 % S/N Ratio: >94 dB Input Sensitivity: 0.2 V -6.0 …
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im not too sure what bass boost is or how to properly set it. some of the people i know say i shouldnt use while others say it helps...please help i know probably a noob question.
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well i am looking for a good brand after market alternator, if you know of any help me out,
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So first if I have an 12" Xcon in a sealed 1.5 cb ft box where should I set the subsonic and lpf. And second what is the best deck with three sets of preouts for around 100$
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I have this head unit and all my basic setting are here but I see in videos of the radio the settings for aux and stuff. My radio won’t let me connect bluetooth I can only listen to fm and cd’s Someone please help these are the only setting selection it’s allowing me
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Hi guys, I have recently been saved by a cheap voltmeter plugged into the cig-lighter 12v input. It showed me I was loosing voltage badly. I found something was burning under the hood. The plastic on the wire coming from the positive post on the battery to the alt was bad, and the cooper was touching a metal part. I took it off, and now everything is ok. The alternator works as usual. But now I want a better voltmeter. This one is 8 years old ! I want something small enough to fit anywhere. I won't cut anything in the dash to have it mounted, so I liked the cig lighter plug a lot. Which model do you run ? And second question : if it's…
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Ok, I'm going to make this short.... Who in their right mind would design an amplifier capable of producing upwards of 1000 watts of output, but supplies the cheesiest little friggin power connectors to run it?! I just spent hours trying to figure out how to connect 4 gauge wire to a set of crappy little power connectors that could only accept 10 gauge at most. I finally ended up using a piece of airplane cable and cable sleeve to "step the wire down" to an appropriate diameter. I was to two different "car audio shops" here in the city and explained my dilemma. All I got was a sorry, can't help you. What do you guys do when faced with this situation?
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So i checked today my battery voltage in the manual, its said it was 12.8v fully charged, this weekend into the week i am going to try and get a voltmeter, today i went to walmart, no luck. So the amps ive came down to for powering my 15" Fi BTL are: SunDown:SAZ-1000D which is $315, or maybe something with more if i can find one Audioque: 1200D or 2200D I dont want to buy or invest in an amp that is over $600 so if theres a better option please tell me. on a different note, what would an equalizer do for me,im trying to look into how to turn on and off the sub would a basic bass knob be the best? Also what are some good cheap alternators? links would be nice, i am pretty…
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How well do these work? I was looking for a way to clean up the wires a little and allow moving the amp in and out a little easier. Was just worried about how well they stay put or if they come loose easily?
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