Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have read a few things that say that a 2nd bat. is useless unless competing because in some comp. the motor is off.... as i do not compete i was wondering if a 2nd bat would be usefull to stabilize voltage or a HO alt. I have a 2002 grand prix gtp with the big 3 done in 4awg knu knocepts wire and some 4awg monster cable. I have a sae-1200d.v2 and i am going to be getting 2 sa-12s. I am hoping to have both loud and good sq system in my car? just wondering what others are thinking and comments... thanks

Ok i shoulda took pics, but hey.. So i have it hooked up @.5 ohms and well yea this system is alot louder than my PA3000db. but i have a slight problem, i'm guessing its an electrical issue, but... I can only turn the system up so far before a big bass note hits and its like the amp goes into protect and then comes right back on, say 2 secs later. SO is it wiring or electric? I'm going to hook the battery charger up to my car to check but any ideas? IT wangs dont get me wrong, but i just cant turn it up louder than a certain point..

just looking to see if anyone has any hands-on with the 3.1 i jsut got one from a buddy perfect shape and i want to know if it will be worth it to use with my 2 sets of RF T162s 6.5 comps

What does what better then the other and which should i use for a 1500kW set up and a 3000kW set up? thanks

Currently I'm only running 2 amps and just run the remote wire from my HU to both amps, but I'm going active and will be adding a Kicker Front Row and possibly an Audio Control EQL. I don't think the single remote turn on from the HU will power all 4 components and I'm looking into relays. I hit BCAE1 and I think I need a 12V 40amp relay, but the wiring diagram shows a distribution block for the remote wires in 16 gauge. Where would I find one? What do you guys do? I looked at autoparts stores (I will not pay $6 shipping for a $5 part) and found relays but I'm clueless as to where to find distribution blocks that small.

I was looking to do a big three this weekend and was wondering how would you do the bir 3 when the battery is in the trunk. Does it take away from the whole idea?

I'm going to be upgrading my alternator. I have a 2010 Malibu 2.4l ecotec. I'm running a Hifonics 1700.1 BRE and I have a D2400 under the hood.. I was thinking about going with a Singer alternator and my question is, should I go with the 170A or the 240A?

Anyone know anything or had first-hand experience with these amps? I'm looking into buying one based on rep, but haven't had a listen to them. Any info is welcome. Thanks all.

this forum is alot better to get answers from. so i was wondering where sould i put the amp? on teh sub box? or on the carpet under my back seat in the van? does it matter? and should i look to get a CAP?. i have a 130AMp alternator and a Die hard Gold battery, and the amp is a 1200 concept. with 2 gauge wiring and the fuse i dont know what size? either to choose thanks alot i will post pics when i get it all which should be wensday next week.

I recently purchased a old school zed made Autotek 220mxi. The guy sold it cheap as he had no clue on car audio worth. The amp powered up and worked well for about 3 hours of moderate use. It was powering 2 RE Audio SE-X 12D4s. I had it wired at 2 ohm stereo mode (2 ohm load each channel) which I thought the amp could handle. I ran a good 4 gauge power wire and ground (knukonceptz) with a 60AMP inline fuse and the gain was at maybe 40% max. Bass on stereo set at 0, loudness on low setting. After about 3 total hours of use spread out over 2 days it quit. When it died you could smell the "dead amp" smell of burnt electronics and it blew the inline fuse as well. Just for kic…

I currently have a Mechman 270a in my 2004 Dodge Neon SRT-4 and it's going through belts like crazy. I have checked pulley alignment, tension, and have done everything I can think of to solve it. This only happens when the alternator is under a load when I play my beats. I have roughly 600 amps of draw with nearly 12,000 watts of battery reserve. It does the squealing the worse at idle, and actually tears these belts at higher engine speeds. I use the good Gates belts, but they don't last more than a few weeks. I have had trouble with this alternator several times and had to send it back three times, and swapping these belts, and especially the alternator in my car is a H…

I currently have a Kenwood KDC-248u head unit and I think I want to upgrade it to something a lot better. Not exactly sure what hu I want so I am looking for some suggestions. Budget is $400 but I definitely would like to get something cheaper if I can. Thanks -JP

As the title states Would it be possible and worth it just to use my cap as a voltage meter? I know caps are useless but i already have it and i dont want to buy a volt meter when i have one on my capacitor. So do you guys think it will be ok, iv heard that sometimes caps can mess up your electrical but not too sure on how caps work and what there designed for. Any info on what to expect would be great, its an easy hook up process and would like to use it if it doesnt mess anything up, thanks in advance

Just want to wire a friends two under-dash neon's and one under the back seat to a single toggle switch mounted on the dash. Battery ---> power wire (16ga) ---> inline fuse (5amp) ---> more power wire ---> 12v power on switch Acc on on switch ---> neon x3 (splicing all together to run off the single switch) Ground switch and tube. Right? Wrong? Your feet smell? Perhaps just using the cigarette lighter in the car. Cut the wires off the back of the lighter in the dash, cut the DC adapter off of the neon, wires from lighter into switch ... ? Probably the easiest way if it works ... Thoughts and opinions. Going for simplicity. - Steve

I can either get the base bl 15. Or the ssd with cooling. Im planning on running a soundstream rub1600.1 what do you guys think?

Would going from ~130w to 300w each amongst 4 infinity 1252w's be worth the strain on my car's electrical system? It would only be a difference of 3, maybe 4 decibels. Would a high output alternator be necessary for 1200w, as well as a deep cycle battery? Or should I stick with the setup I have, and not have to dump around $500 into the electrical system of a car I don't plan on keeping? I could always take my battery, so I might get that if it would make a difference on it's own. My lights dim really bad, but even when I step on the brake or roll up a window w/ out the stereo on. My grounds are good, but perhaps my headlight ground is bad? Sorry, I know this ended…

i guess you guys got the topic right since iggy knows all about big head units man, the forum is dead so i am just being a bored post whore

Hey guys, I need your help. I decided to change out my substage and now I keep blowing fuses in the distro block after I start my car. Here's my old set-up: Vehicle: JDM 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon (Twin Turbo) Battery: Bosch Premium (American Bosch Platinum S5 equivalent) Big 3: Streetwires Ultra Flow 1/0 H/U: Alpine CDA-9887 Front Speakers: Kicker Impulse i525 Amp: US Amps USA-50 Subs: TC Sounds OEM 10 (x2) Amps: US Amps USA-200 (x2) **NEW Substage: Sub: 12" SSA ICON Amp: US Amps PT-1100 I've got 1/0 going from my battery (200A fuse) to my trunk and running into a 3-way distro block (fuse sizes are 25A, 60A, an…

(reference: system is HDS.1 15" Soundqubed 1200RMS w/Orion Cobalt 2500.1D Amp in a 2003 Lincoln TC) Recently I posted bout headlight dimming, weather Big3 or capacitor may solve issue & got many great responses... The best bein bout batteries & the different types, however Im currently livin off expired bread & occasionally sharing dog food w/my neighbors dog that he gets LMAO it's not that bad but suffice it to say I can't afford a new battery that would probably solve the problem, but since I had extra 4ga. OFC from my last 2 installs, I did the big3 upgrade anyway, however didn't notice much difference. Since this upgrade, roughly 2 weeks ago I've e…

last night i picked up a "Massive Audio" 3000.1 took pics but forgot the camera @ home today, will post pics tonight http://www.massiveaudio.com/broadband/prod.../pro/p3000.html

Alright. So im putting together my new system and im new to this so i need some guidance or help. I just bought a BL 15 fully loaded dual 1 and built the new box so thats takin care of for the sub. Now im buying a Hifonics BXi 1210D. Im going to have to run 4 gauge wire with that amp tho and i was wondering would i want to get an amp with 0 gauge instead? difference? I dont know what to throw around my car for speakers tho. any ideas? Im going to run a Rockford punch 550x2 to the speaks what ever they are. And im going to run another amp, Alpine 650 mono to some towers im throwing in. Do i need a distribution block or a fused distribution block to run 3 amps? Going to hav…

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Who can I talk to about having a Treo 750.1 fixed, I've been told THE fets are fried.. I'm not 100% sure if anything else is fudgeed or what, but I'd like to see how much it'd be to get fixed, rather than buying another amp.

a friend of mine is looking at getting a new system in his grand prix. so im gonna to hook him up with a dcon 12 but i need an amp that will run it safely. maybe a 500w @ 1 ohm. or a 1000w wired down or something along thoes lines. let me know what for amps i should look at but his price range would probably be around 300-350 for everything.

Noticed one of my 40 amp fuses on my 1500d is fuzzy looking on the left inside part of it. I'm not trying to damage anything, so I'm wondering what's the proper way to remove a fuse without causing anything else to break? Thanks, Nick