Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Like the topic says. If I'm going for a good SQ out of a sub, does the sound quality suffer if I'm running them at a lower ohm load like 2, 1 or .5ohms (as opposed to 4ohms). I'm looking to start up my wife's car with a SQ system and want to match subs and amps for good sq. Thanks guys.

Hey i am looking for something that can fit under my back seat. Needs to be thin and small. i found this but would like input to see whats out there. Rockford Fosgate PBR300X2 need 300 rms at 4 ohms. thanks for the help.

believe me i know this is a stupid question but i had an argument with a guy from a mechanics shop and he doesnt believe me: if you have 2 DVC 1 ohm subs wired in series then together to come to a 1 ohm load and run that to a monoblock amp that is rated at 1600 watts rms @ 1 ohm, does that mean each sub gets 800 watts each or do they both get 1600 watts?

so I just upgraded my sub and amp. I went from two MTX Roadthunder 12's in a prefab with a Bazooka EL500.1 amp to A DD2510 in a custom ported box with JBL GTO7001 amp. I bought it from my friend. it was loud in his car (a neon) but not quite as loud as my old crappier 12's in my car( a camry). Nothing has changed about the setup except what car its in. My head unit is a JVC KW-NX7000, if that has anything to do with it. We just put it in today and I'm kind of a noob at car audio( I can wire stuff up, I'm just not as versed in the intricacies of it all). I haven't really messed with the settings on the amp yet. Right now it has a nice clear bump for when I listen to rock b…

Is the tsunami DB440 amp any good? What other amps would be comparable?

anyone ever had experience with hifonics? i've heard a lot of trash talking and underrating, but still even if it's underrated, it would be only pushing around 1000 or so... that's still a good deal for only 180$ but if these amps just absolutely suck, is there any amp someone could suggest in the 250$ range that would produce about 1000 watts rms? thanks a lot

I just got my Batcap 800 today. The instructions say NOT to ground it to the chasis! Does this seem strange to anybody else? I've used caps before and have always grounded them to the chasis. It says to wire it in parallel to the amp. If it's 25% cap & 75% battery why wouldn't you ground it to the chasis? A background on my system...Optima Yellow Top (38Ah) under the hood, Big 3 (1/0), stock alt (80A), going to run 1/0 back to Batcap 800, (1999) US Amps 150X bridged to RE 10D2 in a sealed box .61 ft^3. HU is Panasonic DFX-85. This is all in a 1996 Honda Orthia (Civic wagon). I want to be able to swap my system out without too many upgrades. I have 2 O/S US Amps 20…

I bought a KICKER 11VS12L72 ("that box has a dual 4 woofer wired down to a 2 ohm load. So you want an amp that is 2 Ohm stable") And I'm trying to find recommendations from the experts for an amp. I am leaning towards the SoundStream DTR1.1700D that is on a sale for $188 online. Might buy it tonight if I don't find anything better.

has any 1 Sean a berth sheet from a zx1000.1 what was its top rms and @ how many volt's. And are they 1ohm stable

I currently have a CDA-9855, but the CD player is starting to skip rather easily. I want to know what would be some good HUs. I'd like it to have HPFs and a LPF with adjustable slopes,2 way and 3 way xovers, graphic eq and/or parametric eq, time correction, full speed ipod/iphone capability. I think the 9887 is nice but does anyone have experience with them as well as "imprint"? Thanks

I currently have a Mechman 270a in my 2004 Dodge Neon SRT-4 and it's going through belts like crazy. I have checked pulley alignment, tension, and have done everything I can think of to solve it. This only happens when the alternator is under a load when I play my beats. I have roughly 600 amps of draw with nearly 12,000 watts of battery reserve. It does the squealing the worse at idle, and actually tears these belts at higher engine speeds. I use the good Gates belts, but they don't last more than a few weeks. I have had trouble with this alternator several times and had to send it back three times, and swapping these belts, and especially the alternator in my car is a H…

So the speakers I am getting are the Lanzar MX8124, I will be getting two pairs, but I need help choosing the right amp for them. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Have two D2 Fi BL's each coil reads 1.7 like it should, I have them wired series/parallel for 2 ohm load being amps are strapped, when I disconnect sub wires from amp terminals to check the ohm load I'm at 1ohm technically I would be at .8 due to dmm is .2 off, I have each coil ran to back of box with 8 bolts/wing nuts, for easy load change, shouldnt my load be higher with box rise/resistance of bolts n everything else that comes into play, I triple checked all wiring from top to bottom pulled subs out several times checking coils/wires and everything is 100% right anyone have an idea

I can pick alternators for $20 at my local yard, for an extra hundred odd amps would getting a bracket fabbed be worth it? Not planning to exceed 3k rms for a year or so. Just a hifonics brx 2k and a taramps 250x4. Suppose I'm askin, how much would a bracket and a longer belt run me?

So while doing research on the 800/880's I came across the 9800bt. Now from what I can tell they are pretty close in head units with the main differences being. 9800 - color display, bt 800/880 - active capable, left and right equalization, im sure some more tuning options im forgetting. Are there any more major differences in these 3 units? I do know they both have burr brown 24 bit converters and 5 volt outs and lots of tuning options. Now at the moment I'm not going to be running active. Eventually I want to learn how to properly go active and all the tuning that goes into making a good sounding system. Any opinions? Are there any more major differences in these 3 uni…

I can't for the life of me figure this one out. The power and grounds are both good according to my DMM. The remote wire is getting power (0.1-0.2v) The remote wire is hooked to the blue and white wire. I've tried 2 amps, 2 fuses, and 2 capacitors. DEX-6900BT Pioneer radio Hifonics ZRX3216.1D Zeus and also tried Skar Audio RP-2000.1D (thought the amp was bad). All the other speakers and such work, so totally at a loss.

I am planning on putting a system in my stock 05 Dodge ram 1500 Quad-cab and wanted to know if my electrical could handle it if i added a couple of batterys in the back? I don't want to buy a alt because i will be getting rid of the truck in about a year or so. the amp will push one DC lvl4XL or Lvl5 I have the whole back seat to work with for space If anyone needs any other specs just ask. Thanks for help in advance.

okay im running my subs at 2ohms but my amp isnt 2ohm stable, its a crunch 1100wat i kno someone selling a sony 1000watt 2ohm stable amp, is it worth it? he's selling for 35 bucks, (he needs cash quick) but is it worth it?

With the Alpine cda-117 do you have to buy the H100 imprint to use the deck active? If so can someone with this set up give some imfo or review.

I was wondering if there was a kelly bb for car amps i couldent find one so I thought ild ask here. I have a Treo ssx80.4 its still in the box never hooked up how much do you think it would be able to sell for? any help would be great SSA is the best!

Hey guys, had a few questions. I was looking through all of the topics, and it seems that most people either go with Knukonceptz, WeldingSupply, or Kicker. I was wondering if there were any benefits one has over the other (other than price, obviously). About how many feet of wire is usually necessary for an SUV setup? This number should include wiring from front to back as well as the big 3. I was thinking right around 30 with some room to spare. I could be way off though, that's why I'm asking. Finally, is the WS wire ok to run just as you would a "brand name" power wire? I would assume that there could not be too many differences in the two, but I'm not an expert. If th…

I am Neal Tyson the head of Team Neal Tyson (TNT) and I hope to be able to help you in any of your audio needs.

I'm torn between the following choices in amplifiers... JL 300/2 Audison LRx 2.250 ARC Audio 2100CXL Linear Power 2.2hv PPI ART A600 I have been told that my Koda's will take full range..but that's just not floating my boat at this moment..probably cross them at 60ish..so Out with the LP and PPI... Someone either suggest something new..or help me make up my mind. The only difference with the other 3 is price. With my budget...the ARC and JL will have to be used, while I have a chance to get the Audison at a great price. Last real difference between the 3 is crossover ability...the JL has 12/24db selectable, while the Audison and ARC have only 12db. I guess the real ques…

the amp will be running 2 sundown audio sa-8v2 when i get then on a stable 14.4 volt system big 3 done stock alt and stock battery for now till i get the xs power and all 0 gauge wire with and an eq and the other odds and ends

I cant do both. I have one Iraggi HO alt rated 160-200A @ idle, 220A peak should I add 1 more bigger alt to the AC bracket or add 2 more 100aH Oreilley AGMs, Intimidator knock offs