Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I recently installed a new amp. I had a Sundown saz 1500 on my btl n2 12", and now I run a Sundown saz 3000. The box is 2.1 ft3 net, slot ported to 32 Hz. I am a little ...worried ! I thought the change would be HUGE, but no, it is not ! I think it's louder, but I've never mesured it. Do you think I expected too much from the new amp ? My electrical seems to handle that power fine, I did not expect that !!! Only 2 batteries on a (solid) stock alt. I have a diesel engine.

I am running power from rear battery to amp. My question is will I be ok with 24in from battery to the fuse holder (300A fuse)then from there 56in to amp? Or do I run 12in from rear battery to fuse holder then a run to amp?

Hey guys I would be wiring up my 4 channel amp, and have a few questions. (1) I have read that the power wire should go one side of the car and speaker wire (rca) should go on the other side. Should the remote wire go on the side of the power wire or on the side with the speaker wire? (2) I am using 2 ch bridged for my sub, and the other 2 ch ( built in crossover on amp), for a pair of mids and tweeter. what frequency should I set it to? (3) The HU has 3 pairs of 4 volt rca pre output, should I use these or the the wires from the hu haness to feed the amp or a combination of both? , I have rear speakers which can also be included, what would be the best setup? Thanks.

So I'm looking for a battery ( one 12v ) to run my two Sundown amps (100.4 and saz1000d) and still be able to keep my Dodge Ram functional . Alil advise on what brand and model should i buy for what I'm running? i guess anything down the lines like XSpower, Kinetik, Stinger etc....... thanx

I have 2 runs of pos and neg wires from the front battery to the battery bank in the trunk. My question is would i benefit with going with 2 runs pos wires from the alt to the front battery? This is off a 270 xp alt which i currently have a single pos wire to the front battery.

I'm planning on buying an 12' ssa icon in the future. I will need an amp to run and am not sure what to get. I want to stay on the cheap side. Here a few amps, which would be the best? MB quart onx1.1000d - http://www.mbquart.com/onyx_amps.html RE DTS 1500.1 - http://usamps.com/dts_amps.html RE VLX1DE - http://usamps.com/vlx_amps.html kicker dx1000.1 - http://kicker.com/dx_amplifiers

I want to make sure my amp is set correct so I am going to try and pick up a digital multimeter soon. I have never used before though. Do I need an expensive one or any work fine. (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2). Using the equation in the topic my voltage should be about 22.3v. What would I set the dmm in the picture too?

I had an old Thunderbird I bought as a kid, every morning after I bought it I went to start it up for work but it was dead. I was a kid, no money to fix it, no skills on figuring out what was wrong or how to fix it. I got a new bettery thinkin it was OK. Next day i was late for work. Checked alternator, solenoid. Copuld not figure the thing out. One day I had to disconnect the power seat for something, problem went away. For a few weeks now when I have gone to start the van, it seemed like it was low on juice. I have 3 AGM bateries, 2 of them huge 100aH. It's been on my mind, but was always hard to tell for sure if there was an issue. Today i went to bring Brandy to wo…

I've had my setup out of my car for several months now but i still have both 200A solenoids in the car because the input wire is still hot and the fuse for it is in a place that is hard to get to and i'll change it out once i replace my starting battery. Well.. couple days ago, i noticed my clock in my car was resetting itself but nothing else in the car showed symptoms of loss of battery connection so i thought the clock itself was bad.... Well, luckily today, it did it in front of me when i started the car.. the car sounded like it was in TERRIBLE strain to start and the solenoids in the back kept randomly switching on\off! Then the car started.. Well, since that wasn'…

When replacing in line fuses with a bigger size do I have to buy another holder or can I use the one I have now? Thanks

I'm installing a Kicker tc104 sub in my trans am and have a choice from 2 amps, either a old school Autotek 7100bts or a Kicker ZX400.1 I just picked up. Which one would you prefer to use? I'm not trying to blow the windows out or anything, just trying to get some better sounds over the stock setup. Thanks for any input you may have.

My head unit was fine yesterday morning, but yesterday afternoon it statrting going crazy. I get in the car and it has reset itself to factory settings. The clock was wrong, it was in demo mode, and my buttons under the touch screen were unresponsive. The open and power buttons worked but the unit would turn itself back on after I turned it off. The touch screen still works for all the functions, but it is restarting with factory settings everytime the key is turned off. Wiring is fine and wouldn't account for the loss of function to the buttons

I'm getting my fully loaded Fi BTL N2 18'' soon. I'm still not sure what amp to get without overpowering or under powering the BTL. Do you think 1 Rockford t2500bdcp would be too much for it (it put out 2500watts at 1ohm and 2 ohm)?? Or also im thinking about getting 2 rockford T1000bdcp's (which puts out 1000watts at 1ohm or 2ohm) and hooking up one amp on each coil on the BTL. Let me know what you guys think Thank you

ive read people saying to use the fuse rating to get a idea of how much rms power a amp will give you, can someone explain this to me? is there a formula to multiply or something to get an idea of this?

what are your opinions on these models? Planet Audio AP3000D Class D 3000W Monoblock Apocalypse Series Power Amplifier $354 3000W Max X 1 @ 1 Ohm 2400W RMS X 1 @ 1 Ohm 1600W RMS X 1 @ 2 Ohms 1000W RMS X 1 @ 4 Ohms Planet Audio AC3000.1D 3000W MonoBlock Class D Anarcy Series Power Car Amplifier $219 1500W x 1 @ 4 Ohms 2000W x 1 @ 2 Ohms 2800W x 1 @ 1 Ohms

I want to use a JL Audio XD400/4 amplifier to drive my front stage two-way component set. This amplifier is four channel but is bridgeable. I have a two channel input signal for the XD400/4. If I read the manual correctly, I need a y-adapter (I will just make a RCA cable with 2 in 4 out) to connect to the XD400/4 to use the amplifier as a L+R bridged. Right? So basically the XD400/4 needs a four channel input to run as stereo bridged? From the XD400/4 manual: "When a pair of the XD400/4’s channels are operating in bridged mode, the output will be in mono (only one channel). This mono channel can contain right channel only information, left channel only information or the …

I have a Hifonics XX-Colossus II, would the new Hifonics Colossus be better or worse? Mine: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5382_Hifonics-XX-Colossus-II.html The new one: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32990_Hifonics-Colossus.html I noticed the new one's CEA-2006 compliant.

I would like to know about all the different RCA cables like 2 channel, 4 channel, and 6 channel What goes best with a Sundown Audio Monoblock Amp and one sub? I plan on buying a 2 gauge Tsunami Wiring kit and it only has the power, ground, and remote so I have to buy a RCA seperate and I want to make sure I don't buy the wrong one. Thanks!

This company gets crazy good reviews and can charge a multitude of battery types.. Not only that but a 5yr warranty on their product.. Insane in the membrane!! Well I picked up a CTEK Multi US 3300 since I was told at Pepboys my aux battery was "dead" and "failled" their test... Problem I have with it is Kinetik batteries are not rated in CCA so I cannot really go by their testing. Emailed Kinetik and got a response in about an hour to get a battery charger and let it sit for 2-5 days depending on how low the battery was since it's last charge. They also told me if I wanted to ensure most batteries "coming back to life" I should go for the 7000 but I don't think I need to…

Gotta love em batteries.. but its time for something else any suggestions on a good under the hood battery. I've been looking at xs and optima not to impress with yellow tops.

Alright, well I finally had time to run the wires and hook up the AQ2200D i bought and hooked up the Volt meter also. When i First started my truck it was at 14.1V(If i remember correctly). that was with no sub hooked up just the amp, along with a boss rev-665. after having the truck run for about 5 minutes it dropped down to 13.8. I still need to do the big 3(i know i should have this done already ), and Im saving up for a XS D2400 for my main battery. What else would i need to keep a stable voltage around 14.4 or higher. I know I should get a HO alt but I just dont have the money to drop on one at the moment. What would yall suggest for me? Thanks! Alex

I was checking out weldingsupply.com, and I'm stuck between #1 and 1/0. Their "suggested ampacity" chart recommends #3 for up to 150 amps, #2 for 200a, #1 for 250-300a, and 1/0 for 350a. But going off these numbers, it looks like at most I'd only need #2, as my amp has 5x 30amp fuses (leaving 50 amps of headroom). On the other hand, this site makes it look like I'd need 1/0 for sure. Sundown said use 1/0 for sure, just wondering if anyone else could weigh in on this, since I can't find a reliable table for ampacity and wire size.

Okay, so my problem is that my brothers HU only has one RCA output that is currently running to the amp he had on his subs, well now we are hooking up another 4-channel amp for his 4 6.5's he has in his car now. So i need another 2 RCA outputs somewhere to go to the 4-channel amp. *Can I just get 2 RCA line output converter's and tap one into one of the 6.5's in the rear and one of the 6.5's in the front?? He doesnt want to upgrade his HU right now. Any input is always appreciated. Thanks

I have a 2000 Bmw 528i, I've been looking all over the net for a ho alternator and I cannot find any. Does anyone know of any top notch companies that make or custom make h.o. alternators for bmws? excluding nations alts and power bastards.

Got my temporary ap1500d in the mail and installed. Set the gains via voltmeter, which I know is not the best method but thats what I have currently. Also tried confirming with my ear. Have 0 to 4 gauge reducers both put in, and included a picture of everything. Wired at 2ohms, voltage doesn't drop at ALL before protection light kicks in. The old amp would drop the voltage into the 12s. Gain is not even a 4th of the way up. With the new amp, its not as loud as it was nor is there as much flex as there was with my mtx7801d. Did I do something wrong? I feel this amp should be "putting out" better than what it is.