Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ive been lookin around and not finding much of what im looking for. Im going to need one of those volt meters like the infamous "stinger" one everybody seems to have.. problem is that thing is ugly as can be and too flashy for me.. the whole big bright stinger thing isnt for me. I would prefer a small, simple voltage meter i can mount anywhere i choose. If someone can point me in the right direction i would really appreciate it. thanks

Anyone?

Alright mono block it is! I dont know what was happening before but everything is fixed now. I think a 3500D should be enough (for now) to power BLs sufficiently.

Ok i need to know which one of these amps are the better one to get (am running a 1 ohm load). I narrowed it down to either the Autotek MM 2000, the Soundstream PCX2000D or the Soundstream TRX2000D. I would like to hear from anyone who heard these amps. And which one of these amps do rated power or is closes to rated power. Any input?

would a new saz-4500d be enough power for 2 15" nightshade d1's? if so how many spare batteries would u run?

My Pioneer MVH-8200 recently has been having faceplate issues where it seems like it isn't making a good connection and if I push in the faceplate sometimes it causes the unit to turn off then back on (most likely because it loses connection then regains). I live in maine so it gets pretty cold and I'm wondering if there is some moisture in there that's causing issues. If that is the case what do you think I could do to help clean off the connectors? I tried looking on ebay and amazon for a replacement faceplate and couldn't find one, and when I emailed pioneer they gave me the usual round around with warranty (which I don't have the info for since I bought it used)

Ok so i got my aa-3,800.1 this is my first system where i will need to upgrade my electrical.. i dont have to much more money i can play with so what will i deff need to power this amp? i will be pushing two 12 DSS Ethos.. and i have a alpine 4 channel for highs... not trying to half ass it but i dont have much doe i can spend.. i have asked a few people but i get differnt answers... so what do u guys think ill deff need?

I currently have L7s, I was going to get a FI Bl. But instead I think ill just keep them for now and I was wondering is a saz 1500D, capable of powering two 15" L7s? or do I need more power to them?

Ok, so I bought a HO alt for my taurus 2 weeks ago from a place called Quality Power Auto. The alt I bought was a 200 amp max and 125 amp at idle I paid just shy of 300 shipped to my house. I put the alt in the car today and well as the title would suggest I am VERY disappointed in the performance of this thing. First this thing has the voltage caped at 14.1 volt which is bull shit bc the stocker would do 14.4 solid in 90 degree heat in a traffic jam. At idle this alt would drop into the low 12's (like 12.1 to 12.0V) with nothing on but the head lights. It would not make all wopping 14.1 volts untill almost 3K rpm!!!!!! I tested this POS on only one of my nine.1s that h…

The stock radio in my car has an RCA input hidden in the glove box. I would like to continue using the stock radio, but would like to add bluetooth to the radio instead of using an RCA to Aux cable. I had the BT-1A bluetooth receiver from parts express lying around the house, so I hooked it up to see how it would sound. It sounds like there is a lot of interference playing through it. How it is currently hooked up is just a cigarette lighter plugin to the bluetooth receiver and the RCA plugged into the stereo. What do you think is probably causing this issue? At first I thought it could be fixed using a ground loop isolator, but I have not tried this yet. After…

Is there a way to wake up both amps and have them power on instead of having to wire both with the (don't remember name) "wake up wire" ? I looked on the back of my cd player and it doesn't look like there's a spot to put it. But there is a slot for "sub out:" on it hat looks like its just a rca cable connection....hrmmm

So I got on it today getting on the interstate, battery light came on, stayed on a few seconds then went off. Put it in neutral, reved it, nothing for a few seconds, stopped reving, light came on a few seconds. Pulled over, put DMM on front battery 14.18. Reved it up, droped to 13.2...stereo off. Checked rear batts, 14.18 running, dropped to 13.5 off, probably would have kept dropping slowly. O'Reilley AGM in front, 2 large O'Reilley AGMs in back 100aH. Iraggi HO alt, the highest at idle lowest peak: 160-180 idle, 200-220 peak.

Toyota tundra with stock alt, hid lights, 100rms x 2 channel on the doors and 1300rms on the sub. I'm looking into buying a new battery for under the hood because there is no place to install a second battery in my truck with still a fully functional bed and max seating. I was looking at the kinetic 1800 or 2200. Not sure how big I need to go but I'm pretty sure I can squeeze just about as large of a battery as I could find in the stock location.

so as stated, i'm still trying to figure out the best amp to get for my subs. i am in search of an amp that will push 1500 rms at 1.5 ohms. ignoring price, just curious as to what amps out there will push that power at that resistance. thanks

Hey there guys just needed some advice on my electrical. I have a 110amp stock alternator and i am running 2 12s skar vvs off a sundown saz2500 @ 2ohms so there getting 1200 rms. i will be running xs flex 0 gauge with a odyessy pc 1500 underhood. I am also running a skar 80.4 with front/rear skar coaxils. Wanted to know if my electrical is sufficent and another question was that using my sundown amp at 2 ohms, will that be less stress on my electrical rather then 1ohm? Thank you

Has anyone ever dealt with or heard about Motor City Remanufacturing Alternators? I know someone that is selling one for my explorer and would like to know how reliable this company is. http://www.motorcityreman.com/index.html is the website Any input would be greatly appreciated!!

if an amp is fuses with 2 20amp fuses.. what is the most the amp can put out power wise? i cant find a place that has amp output by fuse rating listed.... Thanks -AcId-

I am doing the big 3 on my 2004 Rodeo and have ran into a slight snag. I am hoping somebody on here has some advice. I am using 1/0 AWG weling cable from Airgas (Radnor Flex-A-Prene) . I Grounded the negative battery terminal and the engine to the chassis without issue. Now I am trying to attach the cable to the charging post on the alternator. The problem is that the charging post is a tiny bolt, and the lug on the welding cable is huge (http://www.airgas.com/browse/productDetail.aspx?Category=14&product=RAD64002143). The lug is too thick to be able to re-attach the nut on the charging bolt, and it is coming in contact with the case of the alternator where …

I'M NOT SURE IF ANYBODY CARES BUT I JUST GOT OFF THE PHONE WITH BRIAN FROM MTX AND HE INFORMED ME THAT MTX WILL BE RELEASING A 3000WATT @ 1OHM AMP, AT THE BEGINING OF THE SUMMER...I DONT HAVE PICS BUT HE SAID THAT WILL BE FAN COOLED AND THE AMP IS 2006-CEA COMPLIANT...SO IT WILL PRODUCE 3G'S @14V...HE ALSO TOLD ME THAT, THE AMP IS UNDERATED SO IT WILL PRODUCE ATLEAST 3200-3400WATTS@ 14V. AS FAR AS THE JACK HAMMER...THIS THING IS 22INCHES WIDE 23INCHES DEPTH...ITS NOT MADE 4 ALL CARS...IT WILL HAVE 2 REPLACEMENT CONES...ONE FOR SPL AND ANOTHER FOR SQ..AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT IT ONLY REQUIRES A PORTED 15CUFT OF INTERNAL SPACE. 80 JUST GIVING ALITTLE INFO

I bought a SAE-1200Dv2 and i have it hooked up... i am running two alpine type r 12s duel 4 ohm voice coils at one 1 ohm and the amp keeps shutting dow... it will play for a while and it shuts down and gos into protect.... i turn the volume down on my HU and turn it back up and t works... what could be causeing this...? any one know?

The car is a Mercedes CLK55 2001, I have 2 amps 1 is 300 watts(150x2@4ohm), one is 1300 watts (1x1300@1ohm). For a total of 1600 watts. I have a Kinetik Power HC1800 as a second battery witch is to NOT let the lights dim if the system is under 1800 watts, unfortunately it does dim in the cabin and the amp for my front speakers sorta cuts out at loud volumes. once when i went from drive to reverse it didn't engauge and i had to put it in drive lower my system and put it in reverse, this has only happened once and i was beating really hard (i have not tried this again nor do i want to). I had a lexus 2002 ES300 before this and i did not have this problem, same setup. The 2n…

Hey guys quick question: I understand this: Voltage of the output = sqrt(RMS Power X impedance of the speaker) Example Say the amp provides 100WRMS into a 4 ohm speaker: Voltage = sqrt(100W X 4 ohms) Voltage = sqrt(400W*ohms) Voltage = 20V So I have a 1500W amp and two dual 1 SSD12s. Would it be? Voltage = sqrt(1500W x 1 ohm) Voltage = sqrt(1500W*ohms) Voltage = 38.7V Should I use 30HZ, 50HZ, or 100HZ tone?

just wondering what everone thinks about the kicker 10zx700.5 amp or kicker amps in general? its on sale at crutchfield for $320 free shipping and i was thinking about picking one up since i was going to purchase a four channel amp soon anyway and i am looking to downsize my sub stage(currently running a saz 1000d at 1 ohm and was planning on running it at 2 ohms) and i wouldnt mind having everything all in one any thoughts or comments welcome.

I have a mechman 240a alternator with a xs power d5100 upfront everything wired up and running smooth. Now when installing my rear battery (another d5100) should I run both power and ground wires to the back battery or just the charge wire and ground in the trunk? Thank you in advance.

Hey new here. So i own a skar 1500.1d. Have it hooked up to a sundown sa10, and works great. One "issue" ive ran into is when i turn the bass knob halfway up it gets loud (obviously). But anywhere past that it doesnt seem to get any louder or gain any volume. Im confused as to why it does that. I have tuned everything with the SMD-DD1 properly so im confused atm. I had a thought that it might be because i tuned it at 0db but im playing -7.5db music. But technically speaking there shouldn't be a "cutoff" point in volume. Any feedback would be helpful.