Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ok, so the tittle may be a little confusing. Sorry about that. But what I am trying to get a answer for is to know whether or not, 1 watt, equals 1 watt? For example, lets say one company claims 1000 watts rms @ 1 ohm. And some other company claims the exact same thing. Now if we set these two amps up to a controlled vehicle/setup, why would one seem louder, or just plain oh better than the other? Obviously the main possiblity would be because someone is not providing that 1000 watts, but lets say we testing both amps the exact same way, with sophisticated equipment and techniques, to find out that they are putting out exactly 1000 watts. Then what could be the reason? T…

I just bought a 2011 Mazda 3 and I am getting a HU but I need help on which one would be the best bang for my buck. Now I'm not looking for something cheap quality, but something hopefully below $250 if it's a single din and if it's a double, then below $400 if possible. What my main concerns in a HU are is that it has an AUX in, 4V or higher, subwoofer, preferably lots of options to customize my speakers sounds, such as EQ, Bass, Treble, and all that jazz. If I do get a double din, it should fit in this, shouldn't it? http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/2010-mazda-3-4dr-sdn-auto-i-touring-photos.htm?photo=1745325&perspective=interior Features which I would re…

i am planning on buying a kinetik hc1800, and do the big 3 with 0awg, but will it be enough to power a RF T1500-1BD and a power acoustiks 1000 watt max 4-channel, i know it wont be full tilt, but just wanna know if it would power it welll, if not, what else can i do, swap it for a kinetik hc2000???? open for sugestions, and really cant afford a HO alternator, i have a silverado 2000 4.3 single cab,

Without having to delve too deep into the world of signal reproduction and the discrepancies in what the human ear perceives, can someone please simply explain distortion, how it relates to us simple "daily system" people, and the relevance/relativity in terms of overall distortion of "-40 dB from the fundamental." I read this article, and I understand the basic concepts presented, but I was wondering if anyone could put it in more of Laymen's terms. Thanks!

I have read a few things that say that a 2nd bat. is useless unless competing because in some comp. the motor is off.... as i do not compete i was wondering if a 2nd bat would be usefull to stabilize voltage or a HO alt. I have a 2002 grand prix gtp with the big 3 done in 4awg knu knocepts wire and some 4awg monster cable. I have a sae-1200d.v2 and i am going to be getting 2 sa-12s. I am hoping to have both loud and good sq system in my car? just wondering what others are thinking and comments... thanks

Came across this site and thought i would post it for you guys. pretty interesting. http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

i havnt bought the subs so it can be either for a dual 1 or dual 2? they rms 2000 each so something around that was looking to spend about $1000 for amp would be better if its like $750 but dont think thats possible for a good new amp. thank you in advance

Hey guys, buying a new amp soon, past two used sundown amp purchases fell through so im just gonna go with one of these. My only question is which one of these would be better for what i am doing. I will not have the sa-12s for about a month to 2 months. I would like to buy the amp now. I currently have a jl w6v2. Which amp would work better to do this? i am leaning towards the 1200.1d because the sa-12s are rated for 600rms. I am planning to do as little electrical upgrades as possible also. But if it would be absolutely worth it i would do it for the 1700. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_23922_Hifonics_BRZ12001D.aspx or http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudi…

i was looking for amps to power 2 or 3 fi btl 18 subs which each rms at 3000, i was going to get two because amps were really expensive and didnt have enough money but then i came across the kicker wx10000 for 1600 dollars i though was a really good price do you guys know any other amps that have good prices. what do you guys think about this amp and how would i connect it? http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifiers/NEW-KICKER-WARHORSE-07WX10000.1-CAR-AMPLIFIER-WX10000.1/07WX10000.1.aspx btw i dont know much about car audio i only know a few stuff

Alright, So I Just ordered a kinetik hc1400 gettin here monday which I am going to be putting up front in my car, and I already have a kinetik hc600 in my back near amp. Well I was thinking I would like to add a huge battery in the back to replace the 600.. I was thinking maybe a hc2400 just to have tons of juice and I figure you can never have too much... But then I was like crap Idk if my stock alt can handle charging batteries of this size ( a hc1400 up front + 2400 in back ) So i wanted to see if anyone could help with all you guys experience with tons of batts and alts. Right now I have a 97 honda civic hb, stock alt (65-70amp I believe..) I have the big 3 done alrea…

I just installed a DC Power Engineering's 250 Amp Altenator XP on my 2010 Camaro 6.2l and the belt squeals on cold startups. My car has 6600 miles on it. I have a new belt on order and will try as soon as it comes in. The alt came with a smaller pulley on it Im wondering if I may need a shorter belt, maybe the tensioner is not tight enough with smaller pulley the Alt came with. Any suggestions? What about changing out the pulley with the stock one? Though Im sure the DC Power Alt came with a smaller pully for a reason?? Scott

Hey all. I have a Saz2500D and an excessive amperage 225 amp alt. Big 3. Autocrat gold batt up front. Anyways, my voltage runs off all over the place (it will drop down 2 volts and sometimes spike up to 16V!!!). Sometimes those spikes will even cause my radio to turn off for a second. Do you think adding a yellowtop or something similar in the back near the sub amp will help voltage drop and these irregularities? Resting voltage is 14.9V. Maximum drops are high 12's. Thanks

I just went and bought a Digital Multimeter because I will be getting a stinger voltmeter soon.. plus I just needed one, and well.. I have no idea how to use it!!! I tried my best and got a spark and some awfully hot wire thingys... ouch. First off there are 2 different red plugs and 1 black plug slots at the bottom of the dmm.. I wasn't sure how to know which red one to plug into, and obv. the black went into the only black slot. After that i went over to DCv and scrolled the wheel over to 20.. I assumed you go higher than the voltage you are going to read.. which for cars is around 12v.. Then I stuck my red probe onto my + on my amp and black onto my - on amp.. and.. s…

http://www.batteryuniverse.com/Sealed-Lead-Acid/EnerSys-Datasafe/HX400/HX400_EnerSys-Datasafe_HX400_Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery anyone used these? Volts: 12.00 mAh: 400000(400aH) Chemistry: Flame Retardant Sealed Lead Acid Weight (lbs): 80.00 Color: Black Length (in): 13.40 Width (in): 6.80 Height (in): 8.50 $ 239.95 Each

Hey I have a crappy voltmeter from an autoparts store locally that my friend hooked up a year ago to who knows where in the front of the car, I think to a fuse for power just so i have an idea of my voltage.. But I am about to purchase a new stinger voltmeter as I am about to add a new Kinetik hc1400 up front and decided I want a more accurate reading of voltage for my Sundown amp. I was just wondering how you guys wire these up to get a good readout of the voltage? (I guess at the amp?.. ) I'm assuming you would want the voltage at the amp to see how much power the amp is actually getting?.. correct me if im wrong about what voltage i want to read.. so basically I was j…

I'm trying to hook up my amp/subs to my factory bose radio in my 91 Legend. I've got an ssa dcon 10", alpine mrp-m350, knukonceptz 8-gauge wiring kit, and pac soem-t speaker to rca converter. I've tapped the rear speakers correctly and cannot get the amp to power on at all! I've tried different ground points. I'm connecting the blue wire from the pac loc converter to my amps remote connector b/c the pac says that is built in remote. The yellow wire which teh pac says to connect to a 12v constant source is connected to my bose amp power line from the headunit. Do I need to run a seperate remote line or find a different 12v source? I'de just buy a whole new headunit, but m…

I'm looking for a good head unit that has time alignment. Unfortunately, this will be my first head unit purchase (used stock with special wiring harness) and as such I have no idea where to start. I really love the look of the Pioneer 800PRS, but they're discontinued. I do care a lot about aesthetics, but I want something that sounds great and will let me run my ID CTX65cs active and use time alignment, PEQ, and all the other normal goodies. My budget is about $300, but possibly can be extended for the right equipment. I don't have any problem buying used as long as it is "good as new".

Looks like i may have found a alt for my car finally, talked to Ohio gen and they seem to be able to make a monster little alt for my car 200 at idle 300+ with some throttle. My question is are these guys still building quality products and how is their cs, would love to hear about some experience with Ohio. Thanks.

I have a XS Power D3400 as my starting battery mounted in the engine compartment and an axuiliry D3400 mounted in my trunk. The batteries are wired in parallel with no isolator/relay. I have an alternator on order from DC Power but I have yet to receive it. My stock alternator is 90 amps. My system draw can be over 100 amps but I have it tuned down for now. I monitor my voltage which stays above 13.3 volts, worse case with engine running. I am concerned that I will damage my stock alternator and XS Power batteries with my system demands. I am getting more and more ticked that it is taking DC Power over 4 months to get me my alternator and I still do not know when I will h…

what are some good high output alternators for a 2010 nissan altima. I dont want to do any electrical damage with an aq2200d and two bl 12's so i finally decided to buy a ho alternator around 300amps

So i already want more power. how well would a hifonics brutus bxi2008d on .5 ohms? ill be running two. alt will be a second 220 on top of my stock alt, plus one batt up front and another by the amps. maybe two by the amps. has anyone had experience with them? i cant even get mine warm at 1 ohm right now... just kicking around ideas, as this would be my cheapest way to get around 4-5k rms. otherwise i gotta buy a big amp and thats lots of money. i want s Sundown 4500 but im just dreaming there. i can afford what im proposing... thinking about sayin screw it an getting the amp this week and trying it... lol. although i really should get the batt/alt power first... anywa…

Could someone please tell me how to Bypass the parking brake sensor on my Pioneer without using a Relay..

Just got my system hooked up today but I have a very annoying whine or hum in the speakers. Its there with the truck running or not, but worse when it is running. I think from reading that this is a ground problem, but I have moved the amplifier ground to a few different places inside the cab of the truck, seat belt, seat mount bolt, I cant get rid of it. Can anyone help?

I need an amplifier suggestion for my 2 18 XCON D1's. As I said in the title I'm on a budget but not on a ridiculous one. I know I'm gonna have to spend money, I just would really like to stay under 800. So far I've been keeping my eye on the forums for a used Sundown 3000 or 3500 and I've also been lookin at the AQ3500 and the Crescendo BC3500 (if they ever come out). I'm not opposed to under powering them either but I don't wanna go under 2500 rms. So far my set-up is gonna consist of: Yellow top under the hood Second Battery in the back H/O Alt Polk MM6501 - Front comps RF 6.5 - Back coaxs RF t600-4 - For door and back seat speakers 2 x 18" XCON D1's in a 9 cu sealed e…