Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey fellas!! its been a while since i last was on here. its good to see the forum still going strong!! I gots a situation i needs help with fellas. I just ordered an 220 iraggi alt for my car. I've been having battery issues for a few months now and im convinced a new alt will defitnely help my setup and maybe fix my battery issues. I have an optima red top under the hood and a kintek 800 in the back next to the amps run in series. The optima has been recharged twice and from what im told needs to be recharged again. I've done a lil research and from what i gather, optima aint the company they used to be. im sick of my red top, so my question is whats a better battery? …

ok, I have to admit, I have an amplifer addiction, at first it was just with classic RF amps, kicker ZR's, Orion HCCA's, with a fwe ZED Audio produced US Acoustics... but then I started branching out my interest, and I sorta follow how are the amplifer people online and I pay attention to their choices and learn from their mistakes or good choices, guys like Josh Laine, zane (below reality), SQStephen, PerryB, and Tirefyr (aka ryan) are just a few that come to mind, so to get on with it, I have been an MB Quart follower, not always been able to afford their products, in many cases opting for lesser expensive pieces, so when Ryan orders the MB Quart right after he orde…

Im in need of some help... I have a problem that just started recently... at random occasions... my deck will flash off then back on... ushually several times in a row.... but if i turn down the bass... it will stop doing it... then i can change songs.. turn the bass back up... and it will play fine... switch back to the other song and it plays fine.... this cutting out crap is getting really annoying... and its like it only does it right before it should hit hard... ushually after the car has been sitting for a few hours... on the first hard hitting song i put on... the first time its supposed to hit hard.. the deck wi…

I ordered a ssd15 and it should be coming in in about a week. What amp should i choose? I have been looking at the soundstream rubicon 1600d, the powerbass xax1200d, and the lanzar opti1400d. These are all on amazon for under $230 with shipping. Its weird how the least powerful is the most expencive and the most powerfull is the least expencive. But something about the lanzar has been grabbing my attention. If there are any other amplifiers in this like class and price range could you help me out and give a reccomendation?

Can any of you help me out. i'm looking at getting a new head unit for my 2001 kia sportage and im not sure what to get. my budget is $300 and i don't mind buying a used deck either as long as its in great shap some scratches are fine as long as there not deep. i'm leaning more to a sq deck with a built in sound processor. i wont be useing the built in amp on the deck since i have a 4 channel amp

i have the Rockford Fosgate Power T20001bd amp and a red top optimus battery under the hood with a 800 kintik in the trunk all wired with 0ga wire and gold terminals with a 200 amp alt and was thinking of getting a Rockford Fosgate RFC2DHybrid 2.0 Farad Digital Stiffening Capacitor if this isnt a nough juice and a alt if i need one? this is for my btl 18 fully loaded wich rms is 2000 watts any help and i apreate it thanks guys!!

Hey guys currently in the process of starting the big three. I've got my battery negative to chassis** done and my alternator positive to battery positive done. I'm still confused on the grounding. 1) Should I go from engine to battery negative and from frame to battery negative? 2) Should I go from engine to frame and then from that same frame spot to the battery negative? 3) Should I go from engine to the same chassis ground that is mentioned above**? And not ground the frame in the upgrade process? Any other suggestions??

Hey guys, i'm a new member here and I was looking to get a little bit of help with my car audio setup. I recently bought a Skar Audio VVX 12" 4ohm DVC sub off SSA here and have it hooked up to a kicker zx1000.1 in a 1.6 cu. ft. ported box tuned to 32 hz. It slams pretty nice, shakes the hell out of my car and blurs my vision so I'm pretty satisfied with it. However, I'm pretty much running it on my stock electrical (I have a 2006 Pontiav Wave btw). My alternator is rated at 100A and my battery is rated at 550CCA and 55Ah. My headlights and my dashboard dim heavily even while driving but especially when stopped. I wouldn't normally care about this but on certain songs when…

So last night on my way home from work I was listening to my stereo and all of a sudden the H.U. shuts off and then restarts(Alpine 9884). I installed the H.U. last year in November and never had a problem with it then about a month ago I put in a Sundown SAZ-1000D and a Fi 12" Q. Never had a problem with my H.U. turning off before last night. I dont know if the cold had anything to do with it. It was around 30 out and snowing. Today comming home from school it was listening to it seeing if it would shut off and it never did then comming to work a few hours later it started doing it again. I have yet to do the big 3 and my voltage drops pretty good. Im driving a 97 bla…

Im building a sealed enclosure for my 2 15" Obsidians that's gonna be about 4 Cu Ft. after displacement. I plan on using my Hifonics Zeus 2000 which has a subsonic filter on it which for my ported enclosure I set about 5 Hz under my Box tuning. There's no option to turn the Subsonic filter off so I'm wondering what exactly I should set it at when using it for a sealed enclosure. Sorry if this lacks detail I'm unsure how/what to base setting it off of so I'm not sure what else to include.

Just wanted a couple of suggestions of what amp i shoud put on my highs. I had a kenwood 301T on it but it blew on me so i had to take it out and now my highs sounding like str8 a**. I have two pioneer 5 1/4s, two kenwood excelon tweeters, and two eclipse 6X9s. Help a brotha out.

Blue one: http://tinyurl.com/ybem7ro Red one: http://tinyurl.com/ybndc95 just ordered mine.

does anyone think soundstream spl amps put out tru watts or are they garbage?

Got 320 amp mechman now need advice on wiring and what type of lithium battery setup to get, wanting to run about 4-5k RMS total and hold voltage. I've read that I should run a regular lead battery with a lithium, never done a lithium setup before and need advice, all help appreciated really excited about this build!

So I got on it today getting on the interstate, battery light came on, stayed on a few seconds then went off. Put it in neutral, reved it, nothing for a few seconds, stopped reving, light came on a few seconds. Pulled over, put DMM on front battery 14.18. Reved it up, droped to 13.2...stereo off. Checked rear batts, 14.18 running, dropped to 13.5 off, probably would have kept dropping slowly. O'Reilley AGM in front, 2 large O'Reilley AGMs in back 100aH. Iraggi HO alt, the highest at idle lowest peak: 160-180 idle, 200-220 peak.

So I decided on this unit awhile back, forgoing built in nav for a generally better unit for the money. Really like the interface and the Bluetooth is much more reliable and has much better audio quality than the Kenwood it replaced. I'm having a problem with the unit though. I live in the desert and it's hot like hell here from time to time. On hot days when the truck has been sitting in the sun, the radio will activate the mute until the truck cools down enough from the AC and then it works fine. It's annoying but I can live with that. The problem is yesterday I was driving in the mountains were it most certainly was NOT hot, OAT was between 55 and 42 F with the in…

Im getting 2 amp kits from knukonceptz. They are both 0 gauge. One is for my amp wiring and one is for my big 3. One of my questions is when my battery grounds it grouds to the frame and the block. Do i need to replace both? And where should i look for my block ground. Btw i drive a 2004 Isuzu Rodeo 3.5 liter. I run a kicker kx1200.1 and its pushing a kicker L7 15 D2. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I currently have a Eclipse cd8445 and I do love it. The problem is that when I had previous setup in the track selection button would "oscillate" during long periods of bass causing it to skip or change tracks at times. I figure that this setup will be significantly louder than the last one so I'm looking around for something different. I'd like something that has mainly the same features as my 8445. But also has a very broad subwoofer control range (ex. My 8445 went from -6 to 6. I'm looking for something slightly larger). I did kinda like the fact that the 8445 has an 8v preouts. But that really doesn't mean too much. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.

Hey guys, I'm bullshittin' ideas around in my head about a temp daily set-up. until i do my BL What kind of electrical would i need for the set up listed below? I'm thinking a 350amp Alt from DC Power and a D3100 as a starter battery. AQ3500D.1 4 ohm power @ 14.4V @ 1% THD 1400W x 1 2 ohm power @ 14.4V @ 1% THD 2600W x 1 1 ohm power @ 14.4V @ < 1% THD 4300W x 1 AA SMD 18" RMS 3500w Also, if i were to double the equipment, could i still use a single alt and add another D3100? -- Or would that add too much then recommended stress on the alternator? Thanks guys!

I am currently running a set of Crystal 6.5" componants on my Sundown 100.4 The HU Is a Pioneer DEH-P6000UB I keep having some "popping" from the mids.........as if they are almost over excurting at times. HU High Pass is set at 125 Hz The amp is set at Full Range. I cannot seem to find a way to shut off the High Pass on the HU and i wonder if turning on the High Pass on the amp could cause some issues. Also what could be the other causes of this besides it being too low a crossover point? Gain is slightly less than 3/4 no bass boost or anything else. Ideas are VERY welsome. J

I NEED A HIGH OUTPUT ALT. FOR A 1999 MERCEDES C230 KOMPRESSOR, CANT FIND ONE, I NO IT DOESNT, HAVE A DELCO, ALT, IT HAS THE MERCEDES VERISON, HELP PLEAAAAAAAAAAAAAASE

Basically I cannot get any pre-out voltage from the HU for the sub-out. With volume all the way up on a 50hz tone pre-out voltage is ~.69 (tested directly at the HU). Put the leads on the mid output... .69 as well. Put on a 1khz test tone.. DMM on mid outputs... 3.69... on sub with 1khz.. 3.69. So basically I'm pretty sure nothing is wrong with the actual pre-outs but I am missing an option or control on the HU completly. I have the Subwoofer set to +15 and it's set on Subwoofer system 1. The Crossover and PEQ don't have the level turned down on the sub... so I am

Ok, I just got in my Fi Q 15. I have it running 1000rms at 1 ohm on a Sundown 1500D on stock electrical. I am getting a bit of dimming. I have a run of 1/0 wire with a 1/0 battery to chassis ground. I am thinking of going pickup a Kinetik HC600 or HC800 and put it in the back since, I still have to hookup my JL 300/4 back there. Would this take a bit of strain of my front battery? I REALLY dont want to have to change my alt. Factory amperage on my Tacoma is 80 amp.

If you had a choice between the Orion 4004.4 amp and the tsunami db4440 (avionix) which would you choose? Is one going to be cleaner sounding than the other or would any difference be negligible? Say you could get both amps for the exact same cost. Its gonna power CDT classic comps (up to 90wrms??) and rear boston acoustic rally coax (40wrms) The orion>>>> http://www.cbrstereo.com/Merchant2/merchan..._Code=ORIONAMPS The Tsunami>>>> http://www.avionixxusa.com/ep/db4440.htm

I was thinking about my wiring set up today. In my new vehicle I have yet to do the Big 3, but I do have a dedicated 1/0 ground wire that goes from my back battery to my front. Is it really necessary to do the big 3 if you have a dedicated ground? I can see the upgrade being useful if you are using a chassis ground because your return path would be limited to the chassis to battery, but if that is elimated is there still a benefit? As far as resistance for the power wire goes, lets say the wire from the alternator to the battery is 4 feet. The stock wiring is 8 awg, which in general has a resistance of 2.061 ohms/km. This means the resistance of the wire is 0.00251 ohms. …