Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So I'm starting on my front stage. Finally got a car. It's a 98 camry. I'm trying to find a decent head unit but I'm not trying to spend 300 bucks on one. Any recommendations? I used to have a boss and Jenson but they would freeze when I turned my subs on I'm not putting any subs in the vehicle not until I got a little more money.

Whats up SSA Forums, Im looking to replace the alternator on my 2002 BMW 530 ASAP with an HO Alternator. My search online and in person has not been too good, so i was wondering if any of you guys could refer me to a person, website, or shop if it's close to the Raleigh/Durham area in North Carolina. Thanks

So I have a delima. I have a Chevy Sonic and the stock alternator is only 100 amps. I cannot find an upgrade for it nor can I find anyone that can rebuild it to have higher output. My question is, what can I do to upgrade it? I have already done the big 3 and upgraded the stock battery. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

So tonite I set my gain and ssf according to the thread on here. Only questions are, when getting rms for 2 zcon's, do I add both together, or just what amp says. Amp is a saz2500d. 1 ohm says 2500 rms. square root is 50. Set amp output to 50 vac. Then took 50*.707=35.35. Turned ssf up till voltage dropped to 35vac. Questions are, is that correct? Or do I then readjust gain back up to 50?

I was wondering how good his amp would be http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13492_...SC+1000.1.html# Ive never really used the MB quart amps, I see it is made by MaxxSonics though

I got a brand new aq1200d and after i wired everything up the amp has power and has plenty of it, getting almost 14 volts while the car is running, but there is no signal getting sent out from the amp. Ive tested it with a known good rca cable and even used an ipod to eliminate the head unit but still no sound. I don't know what to check now. The amp is not going into protected mode. Going to call audioque 2night after class and see if they have any input. any advise before i go crazy lol

ok so i dont know what the settings should be on this amp so i was wanting to know what suggestions you guys had that i should set them on cause i will be installing this in the morning. here is a pic of the side,if you click on it you can make it bigger and get alot better view if the settings. http://www.limelighthosting.com/~dave/MK800.4/IMG_0986.JPG

Ok so i'm going to need RCAs eventually and i'm not keen on paying out the ass for them.

I've been looking around for a good 4 channel amplifier that cost some where around 350 or less that has a small foot print I was hoping to hide it. I have looked at the rockford fosgate pbr 300.4 was wondering if anyone had any experience with these? Or if anyone has had any other amps that are on the smaller side I would like to hear some other options as well. Also I was wondering if anyone could tell me where I could find some info on the little soundigital 250.2 I tried emailing them and messaging a soundigital rep on the smd website and got no replies. Was thinking of maybe getting 2 of those for running a set of comps. could definitely hide those somewhere.

Ok so when its warm out my amp turns on just fine... Now that its been cold out my amp doesnt turn on.. No prot. Light. No lights at all.. The HU remote wire is reading less than 1 volt... I hooked up the remote wire to the red wire on the cd player... The amp turned on but it was making weird noises when I turned the car off.... Is the remote wire on the HU goin out?

http://www.theautophile.com/products/SiteD...eDirectory.html

The xtant is a 3 channel amp 75x2 + 150x1 at 4ohms or 150x2 + 300x1 at 2 ohms. The system is going in a Ford 350 dully. The doors have 6x9's. My original thought was to run ID's 2ohm 6.5 comps in the front and doing nothing in the back doors. Then running a single IDQ 10" or 12". Also thought of running 2 sets of 4ohm comps or coaxials in front and back doors. I haven't decided on a HU yet. Mainly just looking for one more geared for SQ and one that will run an ipod. I have plenty of time on this build and am not commited to anything but the xtant 603x. Any thought's would be appreciated.

Ive been lookin around and not finding much of what im looking for. Im going to need one of those volt meters like the infamous "stinger" one everybody seems to have.. problem is that thing is ugly as can be and too flashy for me.. the whole big bright stinger thing isnt for me. I would prefer a small, simple voltage meter i can mount anywhere i choose. If someone can point me in the right direction i would really appreciate it. thanks

Anyone?

Alright mono block it is! I dont know what was happening before but everything is fixed now. I think a 3500D should be enough (for now) to power BLs sufficiently.

Ok i need to know which one of these amps are the better one to get (am running a 1 ohm load). I narrowed it down to either the Autotek MM 2000, the Soundstream PCX2000D or the Soundstream TRX2000D. I would like to hear from anyone who heard these amps. And which one of these amps do rated power or is closes to rated power. Any input?

would a new saz-4500d be enough power for 2 15" nightshade d1's? if so how many spare batteries would u run?

My Pioneer MVH-8200 recently has been having faceplate issues where it seems like it isn't making a good connection and if I push in the faceplate sometimes it causes the unit to turn off then back on (most likely because it loses connection then regains). I live in maine so it gets pretty cold and I'm wondering if there is some moisture in there that's causing issues. If that is the case what do you think I could do to help clean off the connectors? I tried looking on ebay and amazon for a replacement faceplate and couldn't find one, and when I emailed pioneer they gave me the usual round around with warranty (which I don't have the info for since I bought it used)

So the other day I did the Big 3 in my car. Everything had always been fine before it, I just did it to prepare for my next system. After doing the Big 3, I noticed something weird. In my car, there is a little heads up display for the driver, and after bumpin for a while, it said "Batter Saver Active." Wtf is this? I mean I would guess that it senses low power from the batt, but two different voltage meters show 12.8 w/ car off, ~15.2 idle, and ~14.6-15.1 while bumping. My voltage never drops below 14.3 volts, and I was just wondering why it would say something about the batter saver? Btw, i just added new wires, I did not remove the old ones.

Ok so i got my aa-3,800.1 this is my first system where i will need to upgrade my electrical.. i dont have to much more money i can play with so what will i deff need to power this amp? i will be pushing two 12 DSS Ethos.. and i have a alpine 4 channel for highs... not trying to half ass it but i dont have much doe i can spend.. i have asked a few people but i get differnt answers... so what do u guys think ill deff need?

Ok, I have decided the XXX, huge amp, heavy optima yellow top 31 series, and massive box is too much for what I need it for. I am selling everything except the Rainbows and my HU to Jamie's cousin. Here is what the next system will be: 2 RL-i 8's sealed in a movable box Rainbows on a 150x2 amp (that seems to be the most power they can take) A matching amp for the rl-i's (around 700 watts) Audiocontrol EQT's and 4XS I would also like to be able to stay in the running for USACi 0-600 sq class. I can get the JBL's for about 550-600 if my eBay powerseller pricematch goes through on SD. I can get the Kickers for around 750-800 I think. I already have a PA VX3002, and anoth…

Ok, so I bought a HO alt for my taurus 2 weeks ago from a place called Quality Power Auto. The alt I bought was a 200 amp max and 125 amp at idle I paid just shy of 300 shipped to my house. I put the alt in the car today and well as the title would suggest I am VERY disappointed in the performance of this thing. First this thing has the voltage caped at 14.1 volt which is bull shit bc the stocker would do 14.4 solid in 90 degree heat in a traffic jam. At idle this alt would drop into the low 12's (like 12.1 to 12.0V) with nothing on but the head lights. It would not make all wopping 14.1 volts untill almost 3K rpm!!!!!! I tested this POS on only one of my nine.1s that h…

The stock radio in my car has an RCA input hidden in the glove box. I would like to continue using the stock radio, but would like to add bluetooth to the radio instead of using an RCA to Aux cable. I had the BT-1A bluetooth receiver from parts express lying around the house, so I hooked it up to see how it would sound. It sounds like there is a lot of interference playing through it. How it is currently hooked up is just a cigarette lighter plugin to the bluetooth receiver and the RCA plugged into the stereo. What do you think is probably causing this issue? At first I thought it could be fixed using a ground loop isolator, but I have not tried this yet. After…

Is there a way to wake up both amps and have them power on instead of having to wire both with the (don't remember name) "wake up wire" ? I looked on the back of my cd player and it doesn't look like there's a spot to put it. But there is a slot for "sub out:" on it hat looks like its just a rca cable connection....hrmmm

So I got on it today getting on the interstate, battery light came on, stayed on a few seconds then went off. Put it in neutral, reved it, nothing for a few seconds, stopped reving, light came on a few seconds. Pulled over, put DMM on front battery 14.18. Reved it up, droped to 13.2...stereo off. Checked rear batts, 14.18 running, dropped to 13.5 off, probably would have kept dropping slowly. O'Reilley AGM in front, 2 large O'Reilley AGMs in back 100aH. Iraggi HO alt, the highest at idle lowest peak: 160-180 idle, 200-220 peak.