Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a kicker l7 2ohm, its wired for a 4ohm load, so should i pick an amp with 750w RMS at 4ohms? does anyone have some suggestions? Thanks

I emailed Dom, but have not heard back yet, just wondering because I thought I would go digging again for someone to make me one, if you guys have any suggestions or insight on this feel free the motor is the 104.992 3.2L I-6 DOHC 24v

I have ordered a D3400 for the trunk and front bat on my car. Should I have gotten the 3100 for the rear. If I read the details correctly it just has a larger AH value which means it should stay charged longer(I believe). If I have made a poor choice please let me know I will be running around 4k on a 270 amp alt. two runs of positive 1/0. Also would it be overkill to have more than one battery in trunk. I realize power is the hole key. Just wanted opinions to help me make correct decision even though I already have the two D3400 just wanted to get third and if the trunk bats are incorrect I will have to sell and order correctly.

Ok, so i put my amp in advance and if anyone has experience with the t30001bd the top for some reason doesnt get tight. Any idea what i can do to stop the top from rattling?

ive made posts before about a kicker 2500.1, mtx ta92001 and hifonics xxv amps, but im not sold on them.For a while ive been trying to put together a setup and i think i got it. probably going to go with 2 15" BLs. And ive seen an american bass VFL 200.1 rated 3000 watts @13.8 volts, so I was like sweet, and i would like to know how much this amp runs for (price).and ill have all new electrical to back this amp up. Thanks ~ROB~

I just found an alternator on ebay, and im not sure how much of an upgrade it is, but it definitely is one... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-...bayphotohosting Most likely 165 is its max, with a lower idle. Im not even sure what my stock alternator is I want to say 85A, I have big 3 with 1/0 and with my 1500 watt amp with moderate gains I drop to 10v or so under heavy pounding, with severe dim. Is this alternator an adequate upgrade, or should I save up and hunt down a slightly better one... I dont think i can afford more than $200 however. If I did get this do I need any other upgrades? My batt is stock btw, but with a good alt is a better one needed? By neede…

I just got off the phone with Ohio Gen, for a 95 Honda Accord they are suggesting $525 + shipping for a 160amp (195peak amp) alternator. Is this a good price? And I got a quote from Dom for $400 +shipping for a 200amp alternator, but have heard many GOOD and many BAD stories about his alts. And I haven't had a call back from EA yet about a quote on an alt. Which would you choose? Thanks, Curt

the minimum i would want voltage to drop is 14.5! i am planning on getting a 250a alternator and 3 of these Batteries my amp is going to be a Crunch GP3000D-Pro running 4 18"Fi SSD stock! any info would be appreciated thanks in advance

What are some other amps other than the sundown sax-100.4 that can run 2-way active?

UPS showed me some love yesterday before I headed into work. Refurbished and doesnt have a scratch on it. The only thing is it didnt have a birthsheet....so I may take it somewhere this week to get it benched. average birthseets range around 320rms x 2 @ 2ohm which is how I'll be running this on 4-4" Dayton midranges.

so my question is, what size alternator should i need. i have 2 cvx122 kickers running off a saz2500d running at 2 ohms, custom ram-designs box, (which by the way is sweet and well worth the money ) 2 runs of 0gauge pos, 1 run of 0gauge neg, big 3, 1 d3100. its a 98 s10 4.3 x motor(hi output). i bought a 220 powermaxx but unsure if this is enuff. Any way to calculate if i need more or another batt?

Here's what I have to work with: ^thats the lame part. amps are 9.45" tall, while the cushion template is only ~7.5" What I'm thinking about doing. Please excuse my paint work The front is gonna have plexi to show the middle of the amp, but not the outer edges/wiring inputs. Gonna put a blue cathode above each amp inside the amp enclosure, out of sight. Might cover with vinyl, but I'm not sure cuz I suck at wrapping corners. Any other suggestion that'll look nice are welcomed Seem like a good idea? Any suggestions? Also, I need strong, thin wood so the rack wont protrude so much. What kind would u suggest?

Currently I'm only running 2 amps and just run the remote wire from my HU to both amps, but I'm going active and will be adding a Kicker Front Row and possibly an Audio Control EQL. I don't think the single remote turn on from the HU will power all 4 components and I'm looking into relays. I hit BCAE1 and I think I need a 12V 40amp relay, but the wiring diagram shows a distribution block for the remote wires in 16 gauge. Where would I find one? What do you guys do? I looked at autoparts stores (I will not pay $6 shipping for a $5 part) and found relays but I'm clueless as to where to find distribution blocks that small.

I have a Autotek MM1400.1D and Autotek MM75.4 in my truck. I leave my truck parked for a few days at a time at school. The 1400 goes into protect mode when I turn my truck on after its been sitting for a few days (I leave the radio on all the time), but when I turn my radio off then on again everything is okay. I can turn the truck off and on after the amplifier is off of protect, and it turns on like normal. What could be the cause of this?

Gotta love em batteries.. but its time for something else any suggestions on a good under the hood battery. I've been looking at xs and optima not to impress with yellow tops.

just wondering what everyone thinks about this amp ? thanks all. does it do rated power? is it stappable? are they quaility products?

So I dont know if I will need an alternator, at least I hope not. However, if I did I dont think it is possible to find an aftermarket one for the 4.2L as it is not a very common engine in the f150...anyone have any ideas (I would not be able to afford an alternator for a long time anyways, might have a new truck by then anyways...)

I currently have a passive front component set of Focal's on a Linear Power 1502 with TIPS mods. I'm looking at going active and louder up front. I currently have a BTL N2 15 and another on the way. I can start to drown out the fronts now so adding another sub will definitely drown them out. I have not set my mind up on what tweeters and mids to use. I have door pods already for 6.5 mids and tweeters. I have a small SUV...Mercury Mariner so adding more front speakers is not an option. This is a daily driver and I will rewire the fronts with larger wire when I redo and go active. I'm looking into the Zed amp 100x4 and wondering if anyone has any experience with it. …

My alt is stock with a crescendo batt and the problem is when it's cold out side it idles at 14.4 volts but when it's warm out side it drops down to 12.9 at idle...what could it be...battery, alt or what.... My electrical so far is crescendo battery logic 31, 2 runs of 0 gauge from alt and big 3 with two runs of 0 gauge to the amp

i've had my system hooked up for several months now and just decided to add a rockford 360 line driver. i hooked it all up with the remote wire to the rockford 360 tied in with the remote wire to my amp. as soon as i started turning it up my amp went into protect mode. so i took i guess at that me adding the remote wire to my amp did it. so i moved the remote wire to one of my secondary batteries just to see and it still throws it into protect mode. the voltage doesnt drop it will just go itno protect mode. any ideas or suggestions? just incase you need to know what i have system wise 2 18'' HDC3 audioque DC power high output alt 3 batteries in the back (2 kintik HC1200) …

Hey everybody! I've narrowed down which subs I want thanks to the help from members of the board, so thank you to those people! I will be running 2 15" AA Mayhems. Now for the amp(s), I would like to run 1 amp as opposed to 2. I was refered by one of my friends to check out the Cadence ZRS-C6...any input on this amp? A friend of mine owns a shop and they those amps run for around $1599 (Canadian). He also told me about the Earthquake PH10000D which retails for $1299 (Canadian). Any input on this amp? Also, if there are any other amps I should keep in mind around the 5000-6000wrms @ 1 ohm range, please inlighten me! Thanks, Andrew

My friend has this amplifier, and I've been looking on various websites, and everywhere says it does 1200 watts RMS into 2 ohms, anyone know if this is true? Because I can get this amplifier for very cheap, it has a problem though.... It doesn't turn off. As soon as we connected the negative wire, it turned on, remote wire wasn't even hooked into the amplifier yet. But anyways, does this thing really do 1200 watts RMS into 2 ohms?

I need an amp for my 15 Icon.It is in a (about)4ft3 ported enclosure.(wired @ 4 Ohms now, but it can change). I am thinking about a Sundown 1000 or 1500, or a Clarion DPX 11500. I did not find a lot of informations about the Clarion, and everybody here loves Sundown. I will probably upgrade to a 15" or 12" Xcon, so I should look for a 1500 watts rms amplifier. What do you guys think? I would like to play at 2 Ohms with the future sub, and at 4 ohms now : so the Clarion looks like the good choice. It seems like very few people have it here. Why? I need something that can play with high temperature, because I am in the Carribeans. I want something very RELIABLE; shippin…

Got my DIYMA 8ga today. I bought two rolls with the 50% off coupon. It took about a week to get. Which honestly surprised me because I know they sold a bunch of when they started the sale. This is my second transaction with DIYMA.com Both have gone smoothly. My likes of the wire: It's silver tinned CCA(great for corrosion resistance) Of course over sized. Its nice and flexy. It's packaged well. My only dislike is how loose the is in the jacket. But this is similar to knu wire, AT ect. So it's kind of the norm now. I just prefer tight windings like in the stinger HPM and kicker hyperflex. On to the pictures. I lost my cheap calipers.... The stinger 4a looks kinda sm…

This is the Orion HCCA-D5000 Output Power at 13.8V: 1 x 1000W @ 4 ohms 1 x 1600W @ 2 ohms 1 x 2500W @ 1 ohm Dimension: 22.8