Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I'm looking for a 2000 watt amp to run my Sundown Z15's. Since only d2's were left I'll be running a 2 ohm load. I'm looking to spend under $500 and so far the only amp I'm finding to fit what I'm looking for is the Alpine MRP-2000. I've considered spending a little more and getting a 1 ohm stable amp but run it at 2 ohm in case I decide to upgrade, although at this point I really don't intend to since I have other hobbies that I'd rather waste my money on. Any other suggestions/feedback on Alpine amps? I'm not up to speed with Alpine since the only thing I own from Alpine is an early 90's model. Also, any other brands I should be looking into? Thanks for looking.

Im switching amps and am intersted in the sundown Sfb-3000d. My question is can I hook up a dual 2ohm(wired down to 1ohm) to each +/- terminal for a total of 2 subs on one Amp? Any help is much appreciated.

throw out some budget amps thatll do around 2500w rms @ 1 ohm daily, will run @ .5 or whatever if its stable daily...its for my 15" mts...i have 4. i know the power acoustik a3000db is rated at 2300w and doesnt even do that, but i heard they are .7 ohm stable daily, does anyone know what these amps are capable of? hifonics? help!

HU = Alpine 9885 Amp1 (top) = Soundstream 2 Ch 550 Watt Amplifier TRX 2.550 Amp2 (bottom) = Soundstream 1500 Watt Monoblock Class D Amplifier TRX1500D Speakers (front) = CDT Components 6.5 Speakers (rear) = CDT coaxial 6x9 This is weird, last year I had the same problem but I didn't have the extra battery in the trunk and grounded directly to the sheetmetal. I figured the amp was to blame after some troubleshooting, I RMA'd it. This year I added the battery, using the replacement amp which is the same one and the speakers STILL pop during shutdown. Top amp. Picture of setup. http://b34tbox.googlepages.com/IMG_2964.jpg Here's a video of the problem. The speakers pop when t…

Ive Blown 2 Plate Amps in Less Than 2 Weeks! How Could This Be? They Were Working Fine But noticed they were getting extremely hot to the touch (couldn't keep hand on for 3 sec.) Before they went i notcied my btl was getting distorted 10 sec later the amp cutt of and no LED indicator was on. This Means The Amp Went Right? What Could Have Caused This Im Wondering. Here Is The Pic Of The AMp Im Using

Hey ssa jfreezy here with another question. Is there a difference in sound between 1200rms and 1500rms or is it just spl? Wired to 1ohm will I hear a difference between the both with same amp settings? I'm choosing between a sundown audio sax 1200 or a saz 1500. I want to power two SA 10s or SA 12s at 1 ohm. Ported tuned about 33-34

I was planning on getting two of these for the 2 BTL 12s Im getting but I looked at the pix and I didnt really notice any fans, does that mean I have to be weary of over heating? Ive had problems with amps doin that before. Also would it have a pretty good or just eh sound quality? Id be using it in a daily set up so yea.

Hey guys, I came across a USA 442 and picked it up for a real nice price. Before I did, I wrote to US Amps and asked for some background on the amp. Someone named Jeff Coleman replied and gave me some info on the amp..... some power specs, production run, etc. But, he commented that the 442 had an interesting and complicated crossover and that if I couldn't get an original owner's manual that I should run an outboard crossover with the amp. Anybody got any comments? Advice? Experience with the amp? Thanks in advance.

i am currently running 1 ea.pos and neg 1/0 ga wire from the front to the back, would adding just 1 more pos run help or do i need to add the neg also and keep them even? Can you have more pos than neg? Good or bad?

Hey guys, just trying to decide between 2 headunits. Both have the features I want. iPod connection, Hi-Volt Pre-outs, 3.5mm input, USB, nice display, basic EQ controls. Ease of use is a priority for me as well. Both of them are right in the budget I was thinking. I dont really care about HD/Sat Radio, or Bluetooth. Kenwood X794 Pioneer P7200HD I know some Pioneer's have the weird ground noise that pops up sometimes, so that scares me a little. But I love the fact that the USB and 3.5mm jack is on the front. That is a big thing for me. I would just like your opinions on which one would be the better HU, if either is better. Thanks guys.

Finally got around to taking pics of my HellFire 1000.1 Pics & Test Results From Diablo Audio Technologies Forum.

ok, so i just upgraded my stock head unit to a double din non touch screen thing, JVC something. its alright. i kinda miss my other.... i miss my steering wheel controls, and i hate how my antenna goes up when the thing is on, not just when the radios on. and it sucks that my ipod would be one of the 2 it supports that you cant control from the ipod. only the head unit... but besides all that so, a few problems i might get professionally fixed tomorrow unless its a simple fix. before, i had my suboofer amp hooked up to the back speakers. i splaced into that. i know stupid, i got bitched out on another forum,which is why i have the new deck. so now, ts almost all hooked u…

well first i have a 1200 watts concept amp. i have a 2 gauge wiring to run but i am afried that it is too large for the entrence of the amp? would 4 gauge be enough? or just try my best to get the 2 gauge in?

If you had a choice between the Orion 4004.4 amp and the tsunami db4440 (avionix) which would you choose? Is one going to be cleaner sounding than the other or would any difference be negligible? Say you could get both amps for the exact same cost. Its gonna power CDT classic comps (up to 90wrms??) and rear boston acoustic rally coax (40wrms) The orion>>>> http://www.cbrstereo.com/Merchant2/merchan..._Code=ORIONAMPS The Tsunami>>>> http://www.avionixxusa.com/ep/db4440.htm

Basically I cannot get any pre-out voltage from the HU for the sub-out. With volume all the way up on a 50hz tone pre-out voltage is ~.69 (tested directly at the HU). Put the leads on the mid output... .69 as well. Put on a 1khz test tone.. DMM on mid outputs... 3.69... on sub with 1khz.. 3.69. So basically I'm pretty sure nothing is wrong with the actual pre-outs but I am missing an option or control on the HU completly. I have the Subwoofer set to +15 and it's set on Subwoofer system 1. The Crossover and PEQ don't have the level turned down on the sub... so I am

I currently have a stock alt thats 70amps... but im putting in a 1300rms amp and a 70rms 2channel... i was wondering if i could get a cheap alt so i wouldnt have to worry about my voltage. I have all stock electrical, and stock battery no big 3... big 3 is going to happen very soon. But after that id like to upgrade alt... how much would this cost me for a 06 tundra. V8 4.7L

When are the amps gonna be available??? ...I'm interested in the two channel version.

Going to be picking up my 88 Cadillac Eldorado this weekend and it needs a new battery under the hood. I need the biggest bang for my buck. I'm looking at WalMart since Marine Batteries are cheap. Any suggestions on which has the most oomph without having to tear under hood to fit something. I'll be running extra batteries in the back for the future, but right now I'll just need to run a Carver PMA 2062 for front stage and a Helix SPXL1000B in the future to run a pair of DP's. My budget is around 100 bucks.

So I just picked up a 2005 TrailBlazer and the factory Head Unit has to go.... I have alway like Kenwood head Units so, I'm looking at the Kenwood DDX514.... http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DDX514/Kenwood-DDX514.html?tp=20217 It seems to cover most of my wants... Nice Bright easy to see/read display in all lighting conditions. If its going to have one, it might as well be good! Ipod control, not just Aux input, but seemingly native controls with Album art, playlists and all (need a 30.00 cable) Ability to hook up an HD tunner (extra 80 bucks I think) Ability to hook up a Sirius (again Controls it natively, not just a aux input) (I have sirus and love it for travel) Abil…

ok, I have to admit, I have an amplifer addiction, at first it was just with classic RF amps, kicker ZR's, Orion HCCA's, with a fwe ZED Audio produced US Acoustics... but then I started branching out my interest, and I sorta follow how are the amplifer people online and I pay attention to their choices and learn from their mistakes or good choices, guys like Josh Laine, zane (below reality), SQStephen, PerryB, and Tirefyr (aka ryan) are just a few that come to mind, so to get on with it, I have been an MB Quart follower, not always been able to afford their products, in many cases opting for lesser expensive pieces, so when Ryan orders the MB Quart right after he orde…

So I've had my BC2000D for about two weeks. I've only had it running on 4 ohms for 3-4 days and then 2 ohms for the other two weeks or so ive had it. It's been playing mint and today i was just driving around, had my music playing at about 10/62 for half an hour and then i decided to turn it up a little bit. I had it around 20/62 and then my subs just cut out. I went to look at the amp cause its in the back seat and they go back on, they went back off again and then just stopped coming on at all. No protection light and they still have power. I was even playing them earlier this day for almost an hour at near full tilt. I've checked everything fifteen times, the ground i…

Ok guys, I'm from the UK, but i'm over with you in the states for the next 8 months or so. Staying out in Melbourne, Florida. I'm after either a decent 3000W rms @1 ohm class a/b amp Or a class D, or pair of class D's with good dampening factors, with about 3kw @1 ohm ultimatly. I have back at home an AA Mayhem 15", which i powered with a Powerbass xa3000D. Which i liked, but i want something to control the woofer better. I've heard US amps merlins and i liked the sound of them . They were running @ 2 ohm though, but i could run one per coil. As i'm not used to prices on things out here, roughly how much money are we talking for a pair of merlins mono's, totalling ~3k? O…

I have installed a second battery in the trunk and I am going to be running the grounds from amps to the negative on the battery. Whats the longest run of ground you guys have used?

I was thinking... Deep cycles (ie. Yellow Top) are meant to discharge quite a bit over a long period of time, but starting batteries (ie. Red Top) are meant to discharge large amounts of current over a short period of time, like the starter. Now for our application, car audio, unless playing with the engine off for extended periods of time, wouldn't starting batteries be better? Music is quite dynamic, and as such, starting batteries would be better able to provide the bursts of current. Now I understand that purpose built batteries such as Kinetiks and Powermasters probably have high current in mind, but when using other batteries like Optimas, would a Red Top work bet…

Did some testing this morning on my electrical. At the post on my alt im reading at 12.4v idle and 11.9v under load. Is there something on my Durango that would cause it not to charge at 14.4v at idle? or is it my alt going out? Its a 4.7l dodge Durango 2004 model. 270a Tenney alt.