Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i been reading around and i just found out that my car has no remote turn on wire, But i have an aftermarket cd player. what color wire should tap into to run the amplifier remote wire?

I'm wondering, how would I wire my front door speakers to a 2-channel amp? Do I just run them like I'd run subs?

I know the smaller length of ground wire the better but what do they mean by small? like 3 feet and under...i really want my amp to be closer to my car cabin instead of by the trunk but thats means my ground would be about 4 feet...is that too long?

DDAUDIO looks nice how bout the Price?

i'm curious as to weather this amp would be safe to run at in a one ohm setup. the seller... of course says it is. but i'm not to sure

Anyone know of a good online place to buy audiocontrol stuff ? i was going to purchase a dq-61 and and epicenter for a great price from an authorized dealer. Pretty much the price of eBay . But seems like the guy now doesn't want to sell it to me at that price. I don't need it installed just want to purchase both units . I'm like anyone else just looking for a great deal . But don't want to get burned on fake or used stuff. Yes I completely understand that audiocontrol won't honor warranty if it's not purchased form authorized dealer. But I have not had any issues with any of there stuff in the past. Anyway just wondering if any of you have purchase…

I realize there will be hate to follow, but whatever it's no big. I'm very happy with it.

So i got my 3500 v2 and hooked it up (post pics in just a min) im planning in running it on my SA-8 v2s for now @ 4ohm until i get my 0ga and mojos in. it should be be fine cause its not pulling more current than 4ga can handle right? also i ran it at 1 ohm for a moment and carefully increased the volume and i realize its not any louder than my saz-1000d was and watching my voltage im not getting any drop at all at idle. could there be something wrong with why its not pulling any more current than my saz-1000d was assuming it should be pulling way more? just confused at why.

i need some one to suggest a decent amp for me. from searching through other threads these are the questions i have seen others ask and i am sure someone is going to ask so i will save you the trouble running 2 Fi ssd 10's d2. not really to concerned with sound quality. mainly looking for noise budget 300 if possible system goals 1300 at 2ohms *650rms each* electrical background i know what im doing your cars electrical background it will be fine i promise space available for your amp more than i will ever need for 1 amp vehicle you are using g35 sedan style of box 2.3 cubes ported at 33hz married no kids 5 month old daughter your name! kenny what ohm…

Ok once again don't jump on the gimp ass crippled old dude for not understanding a term or wtf-ever you consider this but I recently was seeking an active crossover with the possibility of getting an eq/line driver too since there are such beasts out there in 2018 so I scoured the web's, and the internet's too... I even looked around when I would go into someplace that sells car audio and after weighing my options I did something totally off the wall and bought a Stetsom STX2448 "Digital Audio Processor." I figured: 'Hey I get all of that, plus a parametric EQ and I can configure the xover any whichaway I feel like, PLUS I get to have my first unit that offers time alignm…

Has anybody checked this amp out yet http://www.audioque.com/aq/AQ3500D.htm I know the 2200 AQ is good and does rated power, should I expect any less from the AQ 3500 ?? Thanks

So I decided on this unit awhile back, forgoing built in nav for a generally better unit for the money. Really like the interface and the Bluetooth is much more reliable and has much better audio quality than the Kenwood it replaced. I'm having a problem with the unit though. I live in the desert and it's hot like hell here from time to time. On hot days when the truck has been sitting in the sun, the radio will activate the mute until the truck cools down enough from the AC and then it works fine. It's annoying but I can live with that. The problem is yesterday I was driving in the mountains were it most certainly was NOT hot, OAT was between 55 and 42 F with the in…

What is a good amp that has about 300-500 watts?

Im really looking to buy a FI BL 15, and I want to run it on a JL AUDIO 1000/1. I want to get the DVC 2 ohm. With all options. I have 1 gauge wiring, Big 3, and secondary battery in the trunk. Both batteries are Optima Red Tops. This will be in a 06 Nissan Altima. Is this amp sufficient power to push the Fi? I still have not configured anything for a box. Probably will be at 3.5 - 4 cu. ft. What should the box be tuned to for max output? I'm new to what type of box I should use so any advice will be appreciated. Right now I have a 12W7. I'm looking for SP and so I'm going for Fi.

Hey Guys, I need help from anyone who has experience or knowledge on the AudioControl DQS Processor. I have the DQS (which is an amazing piece) w/ the DDC. I understand the freq (eq) adjustments just fine. My question is on the octave slopes. This is more in depth than I've ever had to deal with or most anyone I know has to deal with. I just plain dont understand what the 1/3, 1/2, 3/4 & 1 octave width selection adjustment for each freq is for, or the purpose of the boost (level) of whichever octave width you choose. Is there a general rule of thumb or a general selection in these settings? I have a big setup w/ lots of power & I feel like I have this great compon…

I am planning to upgrade my power wire to 1 awg sgx or sxg... Idk which it is... But i cant find anywhere to get the bushing through the firewall. And i dont think this size wire will fit under the trim pannel on the floor along the doors... How should i run this size wire? I have a 2006 tundra access cab. There is a center console in the middle that i may be able to use to help hide it. It is going just directly behind the drivers seat. I already have a hole in the firewall for the 8awg all the way to the left side so it is pretty straight from batt to the rear any help is better than nothig.Thanks

I have an Alpine CDA-9886. The way have mine set is I have the sub out on 15 and the gain on my amp set at a moderate level. I notice a when play it at 20 it'll be hitting good, but when I turn it up past 20, that bass stays at the same level and doesn't get louder. My friend said it's my deck and he has had simular problems with Alpine's and has me interested in a nice Pioneer deck if my deck is the problem. I'd like a 2nd opinion from you guys.

is knukonceptz kolossus fleks the best 0 gauge wiring kit out there? seems like a great deal. just got my elite audio kit in from sonic electronix today and not pleased...definitely sending back for some store credit. setting up a hifonics brutus brz2400 running an 18in Fi bl btw. also looking at an audio technix big 3 upgrade kit. reason i'm not just buying the wire and terminals etc myself is because i dont think im experienced enough or have the proper equipment to be setting up a high quality wiring upgrade. here's the link to the audio technix. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audio-Technix-1-0-GA-Gauge-OFC-Silver-Tinned-Wire-Big-3-Wiring-Upgrade-Kit-5-/110986503556?vxp=mtr&…

I am going to order two 12 inch zcon or xcon subwoofers & plan on ordering either the crescendo 3500 or 5500 has anybody experienced these amplifiers?

this is really wierd. umm after i hooked up my friends speakers. when it was at my house, there was no noise at all. but now my friend calls me when he gets home, and he hears this high pitch whistling noise comin from the speakers, but its only at low volumes. When he turns the volume high, the noise goes away and everything is fine. I'm guessing a ground problem, but there is no noise from the subs and why did it appear when my friend get home?

Ive got a class D Mono amp that keeps shutting off while playing music. before It used to do it if there was a weak signal but now its starting to do it no matter what. I have to turn off the HU then turn it back on to get the amp working again. In the last vehicle it was in the remote wire was connected to a fuse under the dash and the wire's insulation rubbed off somewhere. the wire touched metal on the vehicle and burned out the wire. for a while the amp wouldnt even play any music but then started workign again. btw, that happened almost exactly a year ago... had the amp for 1 1/2 years & i bass it everyday

Looking for inexpensive Kinetik contenders. Sealed lead acid...

whats up guys? long time no talk! anyways im looking to start back into car audio. first things first... alternator. my stock alternator is 110amp factory with 2 regular car batteries up front (because its a diesel for those who dont know) so my question is, if i keep my stock 110amp alt, 2 regular batteries up fornt and say 1 c&d 75ah battery in back with the big 3 done and all 0 gauge wiring, how many watts do you all think i could run safely? im running a audiopipe 1000 right now on my 2 sa8v2s and i have no light dimming or anything. whats yalls thoughts on this? Also, heres a short video today i threw together of me and my "dancing boost gauge" and caseys zcon…

Im getting an Fi Q 15' in my '96 ex-cab s10. Do I need a battery exclusively for my system or just a nicer 1 under the hood? Under the hood I have a cheap Duralast.

Hey guys currently in the process of starting the big three. I've got my battery negative to chassis** done and my alternator positive to battery positive done. I'm still confused on the grounding. 1) Should I go from engine to battery negative and from frame to battery negative? 2) Should I go from engine to frame and then from that same frame spot to the battery negative? 3) Should I go from engine to the same chassis ground that is mentioned above**? And not ground the frame in the upgrade process? Any other suggestions??