Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i have 1 premier prs 3000 and a clarion dpx11500 both are ran at 2 ohm and wqas just wondering the best way to sync them as my box comon chamber.

I know it depends on the vehicle or whatever but , would a power acoustik bamf amp 5500d power two 15" Fi SSDs better then a hifonics brutus 1200.1d ? i have the Hifonics amp now and it hits but now as hard as when it was hooked up to one 15. Yes i know power acoustik is not that great.

I have 2 alpine type r 12 DVC 4ohm subs In ported black box tornado series. My Kenwood head unit has a 2.5 volt Preout. I have had my gain on my alpine mrx m240 half way up with no bass boost and crossover set at 85 on the amp wired at 4 ohm putting out 1500 watt into 2 alpine type r. I got the smd distortion detector a few days ago to see if I was clipping . I live in the middle of no where and the local audio shop has no clue what they are doing so I installed everything and set gains myself. I used the smd dd1 and it at my max volume on the headunit which is 35 it shows my amp starts clipping at slightly above 1/4 on the gain . I rarely get my volume past 26 on the hea…

the alternator i have is a single wire and does not have a ground connection. it is mounted on 2 bolts that screw in to the engine block. is it alright that i grounded the engine block to chasis instead?

k im looking to replace my headunit with one that has higher out put voltage whats a good brand and modeal i should look at i heard some of the kenwoods are good or would it just b better to get a line driver for my system

i have been looking into going into after market for my car alarm and i have looked at reviews and a lot of them point out the Viper 5901. I know with the viper alarms you have to have them installed by a professional installer in order to retain the warranty. I am just looking for an alarm that will notifiy me if my vehcile is getting broken into etc, shock sensors are a plus as well as other cool features but if there are better out there for the price then let me know. Thanks in advance, just looking to get something that i could run outside and catch the person in the act and or call the cops etc.

k. im pretty sure i didn't set it up 100% right but thats why i wanna check before i get my new subs. i got 2 amps. i got a 500 watt insignia 2 ch. bridgeable amp and a 1000 watt 2 ch. bridgeable koiiler amp. i think its a 4 gauge wire with fuse wired from my battery to my 1 farad cap. then grounded the cap and attached another power wire from the cap to the 500. then i added another power wire from the cap over to the 1000. i split the blue wire from the 500 from the deck to the 1000. then got sum rca's from the output on the 500 over to the input on the 1000. i kno its confusing but im trying to list it as best as possible. its hard to explain. but its alot cleaner se…

I have a cheap 300w amp that I plan to run to my doors and 6x9's in rear deck. I already have a run of 1/0 to my 1000w mephis amp. I was wondering if it is a good idea to run a short run of about 12-16g wire from the power inputs on the mephis where the 1/0 is, and from there to the power inputs on the 300w to keep from having to put in another run of power cable from battery to the trunk. I tried this already just to power the amp and it worked, but I didn't have any speakers wired to it. Would this be logical, or would it mess something up?

Few days ago i went to pick up my suv from my aunts house since ive had it there stored for few months. On my way back i notice my “RE XXX” tweeters stopped playing, so i thought for some reason they got damaged not knowing why when they were playing fine before vehicle being stored. I removed them and tested them just incase a wire was pinched and they didn’t play so I tossed them. I installed some new alpine type x tweeters yesterday that i pulled out from my truck and tonight on my way to work they stopped playing, it looks like they also got damaged. Im using a pioneer avh x4700bs on active mode, highs setting on 5k,12 slope and have my hertz hdp4 setting on full. I …

ok i have a 1995 dodge ram single cab and i am buying 8 rockford fosgate 5 1/4 4 in each door a set of rockford fosgate 6.5 components. i want to know what amps i should run these with i would prefer a separate amp for the component set. i am looking to buy from ebay,sonicelectronix,or onlinecarstereo. this is the product code for the speakers i am going to use. Rockford Fosgate P162S-- component set Rockford Fosgate Punch P152C-- speakers

i read a topic with a guy saying he's running an amp at .5ohms for spl and @ 1 for daily. He was running a sundown 3000 amp.Im trying to decide between 2 dual 2ohms or 2 dual 1ohm speakers. I have a hifonics colossus that's 1600 X 2 rms at 1ohm or 3200 rms bridged @ 2ohms. Will my amp run @ .5 for a short spl burst or go into protection mode. or should i just gt the dual 2s? would it be better to run it at 1ohm each channel daily or bridged @ 2ohms? Thank you

I have an alpine CDA-9853. I'm not sure what would be the best way to set it up. The crossover has front/rear/sub, I'm not sure about the slope and what Hz to tune them to for best sound. I have the front / rear set to 100hz and the slope to 24. It goes flat/6/12/18/24. I would like some advice on how to tune these. The subwoofer setting is what I'm most concerned about. I have a FI BL 12 and blew it. Now in the process of re coning it =( I'm also not sure what to set my amps LPF to.... I was told 80hz but I want to be sure. Many people also mentioned bass boost being bad, is this true? And one more question, should I keep my subwoofer level on 0 at all time…

Aren't they about the same as far as power? I currently have an RE12.1, but I was kinda looking at the NINe.1 cause I can get a matching NINe.2. I know it's kinda silly, but I like my things to match. Is there a reason one would be better than the other?

Im about to buy a 10" icon and a sae-1000D but i was wondering on how i should buy the power wires. I was thinking of buying a wiring kit but they just seem really expensive and im not sure which to get. Or should i just get buy the wire and the connectors and fuses etc. Where could i find good wiring kits and a place to buy wire and connects and fuses online? I know about weldingsupply.com. Anyone ever used this site?

I had the Addictive Audio 10.4 (115x4 @ 4 ohms) screwed into the box playing the 2 Selenium 6W4Ps active fine for a while. I started getting a static sound from the speakers, when I noticed that nearly all (7 out of 8) screws that hold the casing of the amplifier to the internals had stripped out and was barely hanging on for dear life. I took the amp off the box and took it inside to have a look, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. That being said, I have no idea what I'm looking at, but there were no loose wires, no solder points that had failed, etc. I gave it another try and set it on the floor of the truck beside the AQ2200D, wired it all up, played fine for…

i decided that i might as well do the big three in my town car, but i have a few questions about it. first, from the batt pos to the alt, im not sure how to connect the 1/0 to the alt. heres a pic of my alt how should i connect it to ther? should i just try and remove that red thing? also, i dont know were the engine block to chassis connection is. could someone please tell me how to find it? heres what the bay looks like another thing... can i just run the pos batt. to alt just straight across to the right and zip tie it to like the radiator hose? thanks for the help!

Hi guys, I've been driving a lot more now and I was looking to get some better sounds since my current set up is factory. I'm hoping to spend around $600 NZD (~$400 USD) on it all. Here's what I've been looking at so far Amplifier http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/jvc-ks-ax4550-4-channel-power-amplifier.html#first Speakers http://www.onlinecaraudio.co.nz/?p=productsMore&iProduct=1199&sName=fusion-en-cm650 and http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/alpine-sps-600-speakers.html or http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/car-audio/car-speakers/alpine-sps-400-speakers.html Head Deck Unit http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/car-audio/head-decks/sony-xplod/sony-cdxgt-480u-…

I need a 5/6 channel amp for one of my cars. I need about 75-150 or so watts per channel on channels 1-4, and a 5th (or 5th and 6th bridged) channel to run a sub with 500-1000 watts. I was looking at the following: US Amps AX-5600 US Amps USA-5600x (getting hard to find) Hifonics Zeus ZXi60.4 + 1k Memphis Belle 16-MCH1300 The only problem with the latter two is that they are most likely made in China... which is a huge turn off for me given my recent experience with chinese made amps. Anyone have any other suggestions? Sub is unimportant at the moment, as it will be picked after the amp is. I'm trying to stay under $500, if possible, but that is not a hard cap. I alos wan…

I was checking out weldingsupply.com, and I'm stuck between #1 and 1/0. Their "suggested ampacity" chart recommends #3 for up to 150 amps, #2 for 200a, #1 for 250-300a, and 1/0 for 350a. But going off these numbers, it looks like at most I'd only need #2, as my amp has 5x 30amp fuses (leaving 50 amps of headroom). On the other hand, this site makes it look like I'd need 1/0 for sure. Sundown said use 1/0 for sure, just wondering if anyone else could weigh in on this, since I can't find a reliable table for ampacity and wire size.

I have front and trunk batteries in parallel and want to know how to charge them together without taking them out of the car if its possible. I don't want to just hook charger up while everything else is connected and burn out an amp or anything else electrical in the car. But if its safe to do it then that would help instead of going through the whole routine of taking each one out and doing them one at a time.

ok well i had a 130 amp high output alternator in my car, but it would whine every time i turn the car on for about 5 mins on n off depending on the electrical drain. so i reinstall the stock alternator, ( if someone knows what a stock 96 accord ex 2.2L alternator amp rating is tell me) there is no whine now which means there is no straining at idle. i no that the high ouput alternator i got is 130 amps at 1200 rpm, n prolly lower than stock at idle, but now with the stock alternator in, the lights dim bad, i can definitely tell. before with the High output alternator i didnt see much of my lights dimming. i do have a 1 farah cap in the trunk. now i was wondering because …

I just recently sent my subwoofer out to be repaired. I have 2 amps in my car 1 Boston for my speakers and 1 hifonics Brutus 1610 d class amp. I was playing music through my speakers but I didn't realize my Brutus RCA cables were still plugged in and it is getting power. Have I damaged my amp by playing music with no woofer hooked up the past few days?

I have been looking around for some suggestion for electrical upgrade on a budget? I have been told to do a big three for voltage drops and light dimming but i am still getting some mixed reviews about that. I was wondering if running a second battery would help with light dimming and voltage drops. Im not really looking to spend more than around 2-300 at this time. Im running a zeus 3000 watt amp to 2 12 inch pioneers. Car is a 2002 honda accord dx.

hey guys a have jbl gto1200 amp going out at 1117 watts rms at 2ohm into a dual 1ohm fi bl 18in my amp doesnt come with a subsonic filter and the sub will be in a ported box tuned to 32 hertz will a fmod at 30 hertz be good?