Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ok guys I thought my sae-1200 v.2 was screwed when I wasn't getting any output from it at all and it was randomly going into protect mode. I decided to check my connections and behold they were really loose, including the speaker wire on the verge of falling out of the terminal on the back of my box. I redid both of my speaker terminals inside the box and now my amp is not going into protect mode whatsoever. But when I turn the volume up to a decent level it just cuts out but it isn't going into protect mode. When i turn the volume down it comes back on. So I'm almost positive it's low voltage. I'm going to be completing the big three and putting an optima yellow top up f…

I was going to write a giant post, but figured this will be better Vehicle - 2006 Ford F-150 XL What I plan on doing: Fi BTL 18" power by Lanzar Opti6000D 8 Pioneer 4-way 280W Max 6x8s on 50Ws each Supporting upgrades: HO Alternator, something with a high idle output Isolator splitting between stock battery for car and 3 batteries in bed of truck Big 3 with 0 Gauge 0 gauge from alt to all batteries Fuses throughout system Voltage meter in dash If you assume I know how to correctly make a ported box, and how to wire stuff, is there anything I am missing or should do in order to make the system more stable? I plan on using 0 gauge for grounds, but feel like I should ask her…

I'm about at the point where I need some electrical upgrades, my car is an 04 Mustang, electrical is stock no big 3, has a Optima Yellowtop My amps Bass amp has 160 amps worth of Fuses, Treble amp has 60 amps worth of fuses. If i play songs with real long bass notes my treble cuts out, maybe its just my sh!!TY wal- mart sony amp, i have a brand new soundstream amp that I'm going to have put in here shortly. Anyway can I put a 2nd battery on the stock alt. or should i go with a 160 amp alt or a 200 amp alt or what?

I'm going to get a fi bl 12 with a SAZ-1000D amp and i was wondering if i needed anther battery or alternator or anything like that. my car is a 1997 honda accord lx and everything is stock.

does anyone know what do I need to do to my electrical to run a 1000 watt amp? I will be using a fosgate punch.

Right now I have an saz-2500d and I am getting the electrical to power it sufficeintly. As for batteries, the one I have now is a perfectly fine battery, I do not know what kind of amperage its putting out but it is a stock carquest battery and rests at 12.5. Car on, I rest at 14.0-.1. I plan on doing... Excessive Amperage 200 amp Alternator Big 3 And a bettery for the rear (Possibly Deka intimidator 9A31) My question is on batteries... I don't want to spend a load of money on batteries so I'm wondering if a stock battery and 1 rear would be okay. Another thing is.. If my stock battery rests differently then my extra battery would that be okay, or what part would I need t…

Hey there guys just needed some advice on my electrical. I have a 110amp stock alternator and i am running 2 12s skar vvs off a sundown saz2500 @ 2ohms so there getting 1200 rms. i will be running xs flex 0 gauge with a odyessy pc 1500 underhood. I am also running a skar 80.4 with front/rear skar coaxils. Wanted to know if my electrical is sufficent and another question was that using my sundown amp at 2 ohms, will that be less stress on my electrical rather then 1ohm? Thank you

Now, wheres the best place (price wise) to pick up more Blue Top D34's... (9) ANL fuses (upto 500Amp)... -and- Fuseblocks and Distro blocks? -Nick

Is 1000 watts on 1 ohm too much for 2 yellowtops, big 3, and an 80 amp alternator?

Hey guys, i'm a new member here and I was looking to get a little bit of help with my car audio setup. I recently bought a Skar Audio VVX 12" 4ohm DVC sub off SSA here and have it hooked up to a kicker zx1000.1 in a 1.6 cu. ft. ported box tuned to 32 hz. It slams pretty nice, shakes the hell out of my car and blurs my vision so I'm pretty satisfied with it. However, I'm pretty much running it on my stock electrical (I have a 2006 Pontiav Wave btw). My alternator is rated at 100A and my battery is rated at 550CCA and 55Ah. My headlights and my dashboard dim heavily even while driving but especially when stopped. I wouldn't normally care about this but on certain songs when…

I have been looking at upgrading my electrical system to support my future audio system. I am looking at either XS Power D1200 or Kinetik HC1200 for my main battery replacement. As they are the largest that will fit my factory battery location (as near as I can tell). Upon pricing I found a link to Batteryspec.com which sells Kinetik knockoff batteries named Tempest. Have anyone ever heard of or tried any of those batteries? And are they worth even putting in a vehicle? $124 Tempest or $248 Kinetik (shipped prices). big difference. But is the lower price worth it, that's the question?

I'm trying to figure out what electrical setup I need to support a 3000+ watt system. I'm thinking a DC power 270A H.O. Alternator, XS Power XP3000 battery as a secondary, as well as 1/0 through out , of course I could be off with this assumption.

I am getting 15's very soon. Two aq hdc3's off of a 2200d. My electrical now is a 200amp alt, 1/0 big three, and yellow top under the hood. All this is on a diesel engine, that of course runs at lower rpms than a traditional gas engine. I have the smallest pulley I can put on the alternator already installed, and am scared the voltage may not be enough to back this system. Would another battery be needed? If so which one, and for the best price? By the way, this is a daily setup.

System consists of the following: • 2010 and up Camaro drivers side large stealth enclosure from Subthump • Knukonceptz 4AWG wiring and interconnects and speaker wire • MTX RE-Q • Subthump T-Harness (used so that we DO NOT splice into the factory wiring) • 12" Fi Q (dual 2 ohm wired to 4 ohms w/ all options and high qts) • ZED Audio Kronos bridged @ 4 ohm (1000rms) There are a couple things that seem to be off. For one, we are using the factory headunit and thought that the RE-Q would be perfect because of the bass restoration, and the fact that the Kronos needs unbalanced grounded preouts (as said by Steve from ZED). Now, due to the fact we havent installed any bass blo…

ok, im going to be running a 15" FI BTL Ported at 33hz By a Hifonics Bxi-2608D(rated 2600W RMS) going into a 2000 Hyundai Sonata. Right now, im planning on upgrading the Big 3 Do i fuse that Batt to the Alternator or not? Doing the upgrade with 1/0 And running a 1/0 power wire fused at 300A to the amp, and Grounding it with 1/0... What is the MOST Logical and Cost Effective Mothod to Kepp it all in good standings...? Knowing that any of these methods could be inefficient for what im running, here we go... Capacitor? Second Batt? Higher Amp Alternator? Turn the Gain Down On the Amp? or anything else? please tell me what you think will be best and why the other suck balls …

I,m looking at the saz 1500 or 2000 . but my cousin say s i would need electrical up grades with the 2000 and not the 1500. on another forum i read even the 1500 needs electrical upgrades. is this true and if so would it be major? Also i want to run one deep and loud 15 ported , I like hdc3 but aluminum coils need too much power. any other suggestions?

How much battery would you guys recommend for park n play? I'll have about 2k to the lows, and would like to be able to go to a car show in my hometown and show all the highschoolers how it's done. I'm drooling over this, i've been waiting to do a build of my own for so long, and daydreaming conveniently leaves out all the requirements that need to be satisfied before the fun part. I'd like to be able to play the subs with the car off, not for ridiculously long, an hour would be the longest I could see happening; I was thinking instead of two marines from walmart, i'd do a D3100 or a D7500. I'm pretty sure the 7500 is bigger than i'll -ever- need but I mean, it's kind…

I have a 90 amp alt and will be driving a 12 btl with a dtr1 2200d soundstream amp that as a 200 amp fuse and a audiobahn a6601t that as 80 amp fuse i have a 3 farad cap and im going to buy a back up battery but i dont know wich one yet i will also buy an isolator but im wainting to see if i have to change my alternator...everything is going to be wired with 0 gauge and i changed my car battery ground and my motor ground for 0 gauge and added a extra wire from my alt to my batt. wainting for ya reply to get this thing loaded

So my jeep has a stock 160a alternator. I plan on upgrading to about 2k rms here in the next few weeks. I was wondering if that alternator would cut it if i did big3 and got some extra batts. What do you guys think?

Hey I just made an all new setup in my car. I have 2 skar audip vvx 12s in a 3.7 ft box tuned to 34 hz running off a crescendo bc2k. I have a 100 amp alt not sure if its stock and a northstar agm battery. its pretty much an xs3400. I aslo hace the big 3 done in 1/0 gauge. The setup is alright but it just doesn't slam as hard as I expected. I used to run one of the vvx 12s on a kicker zx1000.1 with the gajn and bass boost like 3/4 up and bassboost and loudness on on my deck and it would slam just as hard as these do now. Iy did burn the voice coil after about 2-3 months though so I learned my lesson about all yhose settings and clipping. Now I just use the bass knob wit…

i have a brz1700.1 powering a 15" Fi BL fully loaded, and ill be adding a 4ch. soon for my 6 1/2 and 6x9's..my stock alt is 105amps and i have a stock battery.. will i need to get a new alt and battery???.. or do yall think ill be just fine with what i have already??? the system isnt installed yet still waiting on a few things to in...?

this might sound noobish but i wasnt sure. im getting an aq2200d, but im not going to be running it at 1 ohm, im going to be running it at 2 ohms for the time being. the question is, do i need to up the battery and treat like im running it at 1 ohm (2200 W)? i think i should be fine off my stock battery since im only pusing ~1300 watts correct?

Now that iv figured out an AudioQue 2200D would be a great choice for my Fi BTL N2, along with my Phoenix Gold 500.4 for my component speakers, i was just wondering what kind of electrical upgrades i would need to support this. (~2700watts). Iv read up on what is needed and im seeing a few mixed results. This is what im thinking: Big 3 240 Amp Alternator Kinetik 2400 Now the kinetik would be replacing my stock battery instead of running my stock and the kinetik. If anyone thinks thats not enough, or i should keep my stock battery or any other ideas it would be a great help.

Hi, I drive a 2005 e91 BMW 320 Diesel Touring. Stock Allternator with 120 Amps (Diesel) and 1 Kinetik HC 1400 and AWG 4 Power Cables(idk for sure, in germany its measured in square mm, i have 51 mm2) for OEM Batt to Kinetik Batt and from Kinetik to Amp. I want to know if i should do some upgrade to run a Rockford T20001bd perfectly. I'm gonna get a FI BTL 15 soon and don't want to smoke it up because of clipping... I already searched for a HO Alt but wasn't able do find s.th. for my ride. And sorry for the perhabs stupid question, but what the heck is or are the big 3?? Any Input??!?! I would appreciate!

What kinda upgrade would I need to run a saz2500d v1. I know a ho alternator but how big of a alternator and would one battery be enough