Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I tuned it by ear, but it took a little extra time due to the gain knob being maxed out and still not pushing it's full potential out, so I turned up the bass knob slightly to a point where I saw stress. Now, the sub gets slightly warm after 15 minutes of full tilt, but it's not more then a few degrees higher off the ambient temperature. Just wanting to make sure there's nothing bad going on. Doing the big 3 in days coming, thanks.

Drew and I have been discussing some possible options for my new HU and I decided to order a Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X794. Pretty pumped! Anyone have any experience with this HU? Yeah I know it's a little late for that but w/e

Whats your guys opinions on it?..Do they really do rated?..I heard that someone was burpin them at .35 for comps and .7 for daily..Also do you guys think its a good bang for the buck $569 shipped new?

So I was browsing eBay for an amp to power my gf's Dcon coming in within the next day or two, and I came across this... LANZAR 800 W 2 Channel High Power MOSFET Amp VCT2010 Now before I'm flamed for even mentioning lanzar on SSA, realize that this is for my gf's car, not anything major. Just some bass on a budget.. (Good budget 10" sub) My question: Would this be something optimal for my situation? It says it's 2 ohm bridgeable, @ 800 watts, so in reality, about 400-500 watts. The sub is a D4. I could wire in parellel into a 2ohm load and bridge to this amp and have it powered about right for it's RMS rating. For the price, I didn't think this could be that bad.. especia…

Last weekend I hooked up a Rockford fosgate p400-4 to my jvc kd-r810 and everything was fine untill today. I went to a friends house and it worked fine but on my way back home the sound would just cut in and out when I turned the volume past 10... At first I thought it was my iPod cable but it does the same thing when I play CDs too. Any ideas as to why this is happening?

Ok, so I have a yellow top group 34 up front right now in my suv. I am upgrading my stereo system and will be running a Sundown Saz 3000d a JL audio 500/5 and a JL e4300. I will be using a mechman 275 amp alt and I need help deciding what to do for the batteries. Can I hook up the optima to a xs power d3100 and expect to see good results? or a d3400 up front to a xs power d3100 in the back. Is it alright to hook up batteries that are of different classes? I can't fit a 31 series up front but it looks like a good battery for the back. Last but not least I have seen good deals on a optima yellow top d31t. Would that be a good option to hook up to the optima I have now? Woul…

hi, i was wondering if a sax 100.4 could withstand 1.33 ohms or 2 ohms in bridged stereo mode. my plan was to initially run 4 sets of components off each channel, but due to space limitations that i've decided i can't be bothered worrying about and the fact that the speakers will be underpowered i've decided to run 3 sets. if 1.33 will kill it, will 2 ohms be ok? the manual says to use 4 ohms in bridged stereo mode but my current amplifiers are cheapies off ebay which are running 2 ohms in bridged stereo and haven't had any problems. thanks

Looking to help a friend find a cheap amp. $150-$160 or less, needs to be 1 ohm stable, at least 400-500rms x1 at 1 ohm Thanks guys! edit: powering my old 12" CVR. (400rms)

how can you test if a bad remote line out from head unit is causing amp not to on?

What is the lowest ohm the sundown SAZ-2500d can drop down to and still be stable?

Hey guys I am hoping one of you guys know what is wrong with my amp.. It is a older model rockford t1000 and it worked fine a few weeks ago, my sub stopped playing and I assumed I blew the sub and I found out I did. Well I find out that the amp won't power up or anything.. It popped the 150amp fuse on the amp itself and then I replaced that fuse and it popped the in-line fuse to my 4awg power cable. Soooooo I replaced that fuse and when the amp turns on it makes a very high pitched squealing sound and then pops a fuse.. There is a loose rattling on the inside but it has been that way and worked fine since I have had it even though it rattles on the inside. Should I take i…

i have 2 FI q 15's, both with 1000 watts rms. i have read reviews about the SAZ 1500d sundown amp, and i have heard that it would be plenty of power since it is over rated for power. is this true? thanks.

im looking to buy either a Sundown SAZ-2500D or an AQ2200D. neither of these amps are internally fused, and ive never ran an amp that wasnt internally fused.. so my question is do either of these amps come with the fuse holder + fuse? also, i know i need the main wire fuse close to the battery, but how close does the fuse for the amp have to be to the amp? less then a foot?

Can someone link me to a tool designed to crimp terminals on a larger scale such as 1/0 gauge or give me a home remedy to doing it that doesn't require purchasing specialized tools?

im starting a new build for the GF's new car, its a 07 Jeep Commander. she wants to keep the stock deck and speakers, so im gonna run a LOC. Now would adding a Line driver help at all, or does the LOC doom me. im not looking to add processors or anything really, she just wants some bass. Setup will be Sundown SA 12 in 2.25 cu ft @ 36 hz and MTX te-601D amp

Well, got a new Kenwood KDC X794 headunit, set my gains with a dmm (BL 12 btw, powered by a SAE 1200d) to 34v using the gain setting formula here in the forum. And I still don't think my sub is reaching potential. At BEST I get an inch of excursion, and almost every video of other BL 12's ive seen do better than this. I don't think the problem is a LACK of electrical, since my lights dim hardly at all and my voltage never drops below 13.5 (stock electric). But I think there could be a bottleneck somewhere in the electrical. Could this be the problem? I've done the Big 3. I'm not sure what else it could be.

I just got an omega Excalibur installed by a shop around here and I'm having a very strange issue that hopefully someone can shed some light on. The shop has been troubleshooting this problem for over a week now. So here isnthe problem... After I arm the system, 30 minutes to the dot the alarm triggers and kills my ignition. What this means is the remote start feature becomes entirely useless unless I constantly start it before the 30 minutes is up. Today the installer told me it's the trunk that's triggering the alarm. I don't know anything about alarms so I'm pretty lost here. The installer has been doing this stuff for years and has never seen this happen. Anybody have…

I would like to know if I should wire the subs using just one pair of outputs from amp or to use both pairs? I know how to wire from one pair (http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=12#results) ,but I'm unsure how to split the speaker wire (10gauge monster brand speaker wire) according to the diagram. I need a total 1ohm load. Any help is much appreciated. I have: 2007 Toyota Camry LE (all stock electrical w/o upgraded 8-speaker JBL) Two Fi Q 12" (dual 1 ohm) (cooling) (extra spider) in sealed box One AQ 2200D (mono amp) (has two pairs of terminals (4 total outputs))

Are there any other ssf's other than the fmod, i have a filter on my kenwood but its only 25hz, im going to build a ported enclosure tuned to 32 hz

I'm in the process of doing the big 3 in my '99 Grand Am; problem is, I only have 2 ring terminals to work with right now. Question: If I do the run from my alt to the battery with 1/0 and leave the grounds with the OEM cables until the rest of my terminals come in, will that cause any issues? The current flow to my battery will be improved, but the grounds from the battery to chassis, and engine to chassis will be the same as before. Will this be ok, or should I just wait til I get all my terminals in to do the entire upgrade at once? Thanks in advance

What's everyones thoughts/opinions on bass knobs? I'm using my factory HU and am in the market for a new sub amp, and was wondering if I should be looking for one that has a bass knob.

I sold my amp (thanks, ulrisa) so I'm in the market for a new one to power my 10" Dcon. For my budget I've narrowed it down to these two: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/compare_items.php?sort_order=%2Fviewcat.php%3Ff_72%3D14%26manufacturer_id%3D63%26category_id%3D26%26sort_order%3Dbest_match&product_id%5B%5D=23185&product_id%5B%5D=23872&button=Compare Does anyone here have any experience with Soundstream amps? I don't have any experience with their products, except for the SPL 12's about 10 years ago (they belonged to a friend). I obviously don't know much about the technical stuff, so is the $70+ dollar difference between these two worth it (other than the…

Anyone have any experience with this head unit? Looks nice and the features seem pretty good for a double din. Can be had for under 350 new and about 250 used. So has anyone tried this one out, or has anyone had problems with it? Would like to step up to a dvd head unit and this seems like a decent deal. Don't really want to spend too much (around 300 max) so that I can save up for some xcons. Also I could give a crap about ipods. I use either my zune or the pioneer cd-ub100 with a portable hard drive for music (which this deck has the plug in for it)

i want to get a two channel amp to power my alpine sps-600's so they will be louder. i would like to not go higher than 150$ i found this would it be good for what i want http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-+ZX+Series+200W+Class+AB+Bridgeable+2-Channel+MOSFET+Amplifier/9925029.p?id=1218195774026&skuId=9925029#BVRRWidgetID

I posted this on another site but maybe I can get advice here, I have a 4ch rockford P400-4 set to 2ch and using two alpine 4ohm 6.5's. Everything had been working fine but lately say I am driving to work for about five minutes then I turn on radio you can feel the car kind of shudder a bit then after awhile of the radio playing the amp goes into thermal protect. The gains are under a quarter turn from zero and made sure the ground is good. Any ideas?