Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So I have a Sundown Audio SAX-1200d, and I get a lot of dimming. what battery should I get to STOP ALL dimming?? thanks

I am getting ready to place an order from Knu for my wiring. I just want to make sure I get what I need the first time and it's the right stuff. First of all...do I need one or two runs of 1/0g power wire for my two amps? The mono block will likely be an AQ1200d at 2 ohm (870w RMS) and the other amp for my mids/highs will be no more then 150w x 2 @ 4ohms. So if a single run is sufficient, once I get the wire to the amps and I go to split...what size wire should go to the AQ amp? I am just wondering because I didn't see a dist. block on Knu's site that allows for a 1/0g wire to be split into 2 or more 1/0g wires for multiple amps to be ran with that size wire. I figure 4g …

Last weekend I hooked up a Rockford fosgate p400-4 to my jvc kd-r810 and everything was fine untill today. I went to a friends house and it worked fine but on my way back home the sound would just cut in and out when I turned the volume past 10... At first I thought it was my iPod cable but it does the same thing when I play CDs too. Any ideas as to why this is happening?

I am getting a set of Focal 165KRX2 components and I need am amp to power them. I am looking at the Mosconi ONE 120.2, AS 100.2, the TREO SSX100.2 or the JL audio 300/2v2. Which amp do you think would work the best for these components? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I tuned it by ear, but it took a little extra time due to the gain knob being maxed out and still not pushing it's full potential out, so I turned up the bass knob slightly to a point where I saw stress. Now, the sub gets slightly warm after 15 minutes of full tilt, but it's not more then a few degrees higher off the ambient temperature. Just wanting to make sure there's nothing bad going on. Doing the big 3 in days coming, thanks.

What is the lowest ohm the sundown SAZ-2500d can drop down to and still be stable?

hi, i was wondering if a sax 100.4 could withstand 1.33 ohms or 2 ohms in bridged stereo mode. my plan was to initially run 4 sets of components off each channel, but due to space limitations that i've decided i can't be bothered worrying about and the fact that the speakers will be underpowered i've decided to run 3 sets. if 1.33 will kill it, will 2 ohms be ok? the manual says to use 4 ohms in bridged stereo mode but my current amplifiers are cheapies off ebay which are running 2 ohms in bridged stereo and haven't had any problems. thanks

Ok, so I have a yellow top group 34 up front right now in my suv. I am upgrading my stereo system and will be running a Sundown Saz 3000d a JL audio 500/5 and a JL e4300. I will be using a mechman 275 amp alt and I need help deciding what to do for the batteries. Can I hook up the optima to a xs power d3100 and expect to see good results? or a d3400 up front to a xs power d3100 in the back. Is it alright to hook up batteries that are of different classes? I can't fit a 31 series up front but it looks like a good battery for the back. Last but not least I have seen good deals on a optima yellow top d31t. Would that be a good option to hook up to the optima I have now? Woul…

Looking to help a friend find a cheap amp. $150-$160 or less, needs to be 1 ohm stable, at least 400-500rms x1 at 1 ohm Thanks guys! edit: powering my old 12" CVR. (400rms)

Hey guys I am hoping one of you guys know what is wrong with my amp.. It is a older model rockford t1000 and it worked fine a few weeks ago, my sub stopped playing and I assumed I blew the sub and I found out I did. Well I find out that the amp won't power up or anything.. It popped the 150amp fuse on the amp itself and then I replaced that fuse and it popped the in-line fuse to my 4awg power cable. Soooooo I replaced that fuse and when the amp turns on it makes a very high pitched squealing sound and then pops a fuse.. There is a loose rattling on the inside but it has been that way and worked fine since I have had it even though it rattles on the inside. Should I take i…

I noticed this when I did my first Install and I didn't think much of it at the time because I was assuming my Alternator had a major roll to play with this. I received and installed my 270 HO alternator from DC. I am still getting really bad voltage drop at idle. Well i am driving it's fine i stay at 14.4-14.6... Once i hit a red light it drops down 12.2-12.4ish. If the heat or AC is on at idle i wanna cry The only thing i have running in my car at the moment is my sundown 100.4 and i have 2x XS d3100 installed. 1 in the hood and 1 in the back. I did some research and I read on trailvoy.com that the car PC tells the alternator to shut off at idle....called a dealership…

how can you test if a bad remote line out from head unit is causing amp not to on?

Well, got a new Kenwood KDC X794 headunit, set my gains with a dmm (BL 12 btw, powered by a SAE 1200d) to 34v using the gain setting formula here in the forum. And I still don't think my sub is reaching potential. At BEST I get an inch of excursion, and almost every video of other BL 12's ive seen do better than this. I don't think the problem is a LACK of electrical, since my lights dim hardly at all and my voltage never drops below 13.5 (stock electric). But I think there could be a bottleneck somewhere in the electrical. Could this be the problem? I've done the Big 3. I'm not sure what else it could be.

I know this mught sound like a retarded question. Im not really an audio noobie but i havent had a newer head unit. My problem is simple. i cant find the bass treble controll. having said that, i have looked and my manual innt much help. My manual says tap the audio button repeatedly untill you get to the desired function IE...SUB LEVEL, BASS, TREBLE, FADE, BALANCE then back to volume. when i push the audio button i get... SUB LEVEL, BALANCE, FADE. not bass ot treble. i figured i had a setting "clicked" that would cause these features not to be present or adjustable. I have reset the head unit using a paper clip and went back to factory settings. still have the same iss…

i have 2 FI q 15's, both with 1000 watts rms. i have read reviews about the SAZ 1500d sundown amp, and i have heard that it would be plenty of power since it is over rated for power. is this true? thanks.

im looking to buy either a Sundown SAZ-2500D or an AQ2200D. neither of these amps are internally fused, and ive never ran an amp that wasnt internally fused.. so my question is do either of these amps come with the fuse holder + fuse? also, i know i need the main wire fuse close to the battery, but how close does the fuse for the amp have to be to the amp? less then a foot?

I have a pretty basic question. I am looking to upgrade the amps I have to Sundown amps. I need to know if the current wiring will be enough and if not what I need to upgrade. I am having a authorized dealer install these so I just need to know what I need to tell them. I have the following gear: Car: 2001 Jetta GL 2.0liter 4 cylinder Headunit: Kenwood KDC-MP438U (3 sets pre-outs) Fronts: Polk Audio db6501 component speaker (max of 125 watts continuous), door mounted Rear: Polk Audio db6501 component speaker (max of 125 watts continuous), door mounted Sub: 10" Treo TE dual 4 ohm sub (500 watt max), mounted in a Ported ProBox Wiring: 4 gauge Memphis 2 amp wiring kit I a…

I'm in the process of doing the big 3 in my '99 Grand Am; problem is, I only have 2 ring terminals to work with right now. Question: If I do the run from my alt to the battery with 1/0 and leave the grounds with the OEM cables until the rest of my terminals come in, will that cause any issues? The current flow to my battery will be improved, but the grounds from the battery to chassis, and engine to chassis will be the same as before. Will this be ok, or should I just wait til I get all my terminals in to do the entire upgrade at once? Thanks in advance

im starting a new build for the GF's new car, its a 07 Jeep Commander. she wants to keep the stock deck and speakers, so im gonna run a LOC. Now would adding a Line driver help at all, or does the LOC doom me. im not looking to add processors or anything really, she just wants some bass. Setup will be Sundown SA 12 in 2.25 cu ft @ 36 hz and MTX te-601D amp

I would like to know if I should wire the subs using just one pair of outputs from amp or to use both pairs? I know how to wire from one pair (http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=12#results) ,but I'm unsure how to split the speaker wire (10gauge monster brand speaker wire) according to the diagram. I need a total 1ohm load. Any help is much appreciated. I have: 2007 Toyota Camry LE (all stock electrical w/o upgraded 8-speaker JBL) Two Fi Q 12" (dual 1 ohm) (cooling) (extra spider) in sealed box One AQ 2200D (mono amp) (has two pairs of terminals (4 total outputs))

What's everyones thoughts/opinions on bass knobs? I'm using my factory HU and am in the market for a new sub amp, and was wondering if I should be looking for one that has a bass knob.

Are there any other ssf's other than the fmod, i have a filter on my kenwood but its only 25hz, im going to build a ported enclosure tuned to 32 hz

I posted this on another site but maybe I can get advice here, I have a 4ch rockford P400-4 set to 2ch and using two alpine 4ohm 6.5's. Everything had been working fine but lately say I am driving to work for about five minutes then I turn on radio you can feel the car kind of shudder a bit then after awhile of the radio playing the amp goes into thermal protect. The gains are under a quarter turn from zero and made sure the ground is good. Any ideas?

i want to get a two channel amp to power my alpine sps-600's so they will be louder. i would like to not go higher than 150$ i found this would it be good for what i want http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-+ZX+Series+200W+Class+AB+Bridgeable+2-Channel+MOSFET+Amplifier/9925029.p?id=1218195774026&skuId=9925029#BVRRWidgetID

As the title states, I need to get my hands on a decent but not overly expensive amp that can do 1000WRMS @ a 2 ohm load. I have a older Fosgate 1000.1BD which would work real good im sure since it makes its power right at 2 ohms but its a little screwy and im not going to waste my patience on that pos lol. The Audiopipe 15001D caught my eye even thought it makes its power @ 1 ohm its not far off with 950w @ 2 ohms. Anything else out there I should look into? more is always better but the vehicle has a stock electrical system so running this D1 Sub at 0.5 isnt an option at this point lol