Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I just finished my box for 4 8" sundowns. Its a big center console box for my single cab ranger. Its 2.4 cu. ft (after displacement) and is ported @ 34hz. I'll post pics up soon. BUt im gonna order the subs this week and am im looking for an amp to push them. What should i get as far as a amp/s?

ive got a Diablo Audio Hellfire 8000.1 it has a blown power supply. where can i get it repaired? Db-r does not do them, already checked. i know of amp medics, any others? and what happened to them? their website is gone, and i cant find them anywhere.

I have a pretty basic question. I am looking to upgrade the amps I have to Sundown amps. I need to know if the current wiring will be enough and if not what I need to upgrade. I am having a authorized dealer install these so I just need to know what I need to tell them. I have the following gear: Car: 2001 Jetta GL 2.0liter 4 cylinder Headunit: Kenwood KDC-MP438U (3 sets pre-outs) Fronts: Polk Audio db6501 component speaker (max of 125 watts continuous), door mounted Rear: Polk Audio db6501 component speaker (max of 125 watts continuous), door mounted Sub: 10" Treo TE dual 4 ohm sub (500 watt max), mounted in a Ported ProBox Wiring: 4 gauge Memphis 2 amp wiring kit I a…

I am going to actually use a dimm for once....easy enough looks like.....but the mini has a few more controls than most amps I have run.... any pointers on what to set the amp at? test tone recomendation or is 50 good enough?

I know this mught sound like a retarded question. Im not really an audio noobie but i havent had a newer head unit. My problem is simple. i cant find the bass treble controll. having said that, i have looked and my manual innt much help. My manual says tap the audio button repeatedly untill you get to the desired function IE...SUB LEVEL, BASS, TREBLE, FADE, BALANCE then back to volume. when i push the audio button i get... SUB LEVEL, BALANCE, FADE. not bass ot treble. i figured i had a setting "clicked" that would cause these features not to be present or adjustable. I have reset the head unit using a paper clip and went back to factory settings. still have the same iss…

I was going through some boxes of my old belongings and stumbled upon my old school Autotek stash. A 7050 BTS, 7100 BTS and a 7003X electronic crossover. I do not have any other information on these gems (I do know they were made by Zed Audio), and there is very little on the internet about these. I contacted MaxxSonics and was emailed a owner's manual, however it was missing a few pages. I'd appreciate any information anyone has to share about these. Other then having to purchase some new Molex connectors for the speaker wires, I'm looking to put these back in service. Now if I could only find a box with a stash of 9050's or 9100's....

As the title states, I need to get my hands on a decent but not overly expensive amp that can do 1000WRMS @ a 2 ohm load. I have a older Fosgate 1000.1BD which would work real good im sure since it makes its power right at 2 ohms but its a little screwy and im not going to waste my patience on that pos lol. The Audiopipe 15001D caught my eye even thought it makes its power @ 1 ohm its not far off with 950w @ 2 ohms. Anything else out there I should look into? more is always better but the vehicle has a stock electrical system so running this D1 Sub at 0.5 isnt an option at this point lol

So Im new to this but i have an 86 chevy suburban i want to have it banging harder than anyone eles in the hood. so im planing on getting two fi ssd 18's and i dont know if i should get a sundown saz 2500d or a saz 1500d please help i just have stock battery and stock atl will i need upgrades if so what do you rec

Any of ya'll ever work with one? I love the one I have on my Q, seems to be putting more then 500watts rms to the sub. http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb61/gsaler123456/IDQ12%20And%20QX500D/DSCN0902.jpg That's what it looks like Dual 40 amp fuses, 4 Gauge power..

I noticed this when I did my first Install and I didn't think much of it at the time because I was assuming my Alternator had a major roll to play with this. I received and installed my 270 HO alternator from DC. I am still getting really bad voltage drop at idle. Well i am driving it's fine i stay at 14.4-14.6... Once i hit a red light it drops down 12.2-12.4ish. If the heat or AC is on at idle i wanna cry The only thing i have running in my car at the moment is my sundown 100.4 and i have 2x XS d3100 installed. 1 in the hood and 1 in the back. I did some research and I read on trailvoy.com that the car PC tells the alternator to shut off at idle....called a dealership…

so i am wanting to buy a new amp for my Focal KRX2's ...they are 2 ohm... i will post specs below for the speakers... right now i have them ran off a candence TRX 3004 bridged.. they seem to like power.. i bought the Boss audio zed built amp and was going to try it.. but after getting it and seeing how they want the power wire to hook thru the little spade connectrion it kind of turned me off .. going to be hard to find a way to hook my real 4 gauge power wire to it... so anyway.. now i am going to buy another amp... i want something that sounds good.. i was thinking of the Zed audio Kronos.. wanting to spend around $400.00 .. so would this be a good choice ?…

What size speaker wire shoudl i use for BTL 18s?? thanksss

i am lookin for a new hu that will allow me to play music and videos from my iphone and charge it at the same time.. i would like to stay below the $350. it can fit a 2din in my truck but would rather it be a single din.. ur help will be greatly appreciated

Ok so Im kinda stepping up a little bit on the whole sub scene and I kinda got over my head a little bit. I thought I would look to you guys for some guidance. I have bought 2 15" Orion HCCA's. I bought the dual 4 ohm version thinking Id just run 1 big amp. Well my noobness has bit me in the ass. I need a large amp as wasnt really thinking of the amp draw that this would present. So if I can get any suggestions on amp/batteries/alt that I may need I would owe a favor for sure. I know you guys get these questions all the time and I didnt want to be "this" guy but I really have no other choice. I want to learn this instead of just paying some shop to do it for me. …

So.. I don't use any of this new bullshit, i keep it old school with audiocontrol stuff that does not mess up. Resistor packs and things to sifts slopes and crossover points.. What is a good deck now that actually has the capability of a H-701 processor or the likes there of? I'm drawing a blank... Any suggestions would be great! Thanks! -Nick

I'm curious as to what difference I should except to see switching amps. Currently I have some shitty old soundstream amp, MAYBE giving my SSD 18" 300w. I'm not even sure on that. I'm going to be switching it out for a SAE-1000d. What kind of output difference should I be expecting ? I'm sure overall sound quality will be better, as my current amp is garbage.... But will there be more SPL ? That's what I'm curious about.

whats up, has anyone heard of Mechman alternators? if so what have you guys heard about them? http://mechman.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/8_717_1048_1912_1950_1953/products_id/273 ^^^^^ Theres the liink to the site.

I have two FI Q 15 inch subs that are each a dual 1 ohm coil. I had them running on two Rockford T10001bd amps and then switched to a Sundown Audio SAZ-3500D amp. It seems now that for some reason I may have lost some sound quality when going from the rockford amp to the sundown amp. It just seems like the subs may not be hitting all notes or sounding as good as before which is when I ran them on rockford amps. Does anyone know if this is possible or even who makes a better amp whether if its Rockford or Sundown Audio? These subs are fully loaded with each being in its own 2.5 cubit foot sealed box. I guess I am just looking for the best amp here which could match th…

whats up. i just bought a 95' taurus. im running two btls in the back seat walled off, powered by two saz2500s, and also a four chanell. i was just wondering how many feet of power and ground wiring i would need to power everthing. thanks

Im debating whether I should buy a Leviathan or a 100.4 I currently have Bravox CS60CF, and will have 8" midbass in the door in the future. At first I was going to use a 100.4 for the mids/highs (Bravox CS60CF) and the 125.2 for the midbass. But then I found out about the leviathan which does 150rms and has 6 channels. I could use 4 of them for the Bravox, and the other 2 channels share them for the 2 midbass drivers (but then it would be 75rms per midbass driver). Disadvantages are single vs double amps (space) and extra power/ground runs of wire. And using only 2 channels for the Bravox wouldnt work because that would mean back to passive I cant seem to find advantages …

I'm looking at upgrading the system in my G35...I've gotten almost everything figured out except the LOC. The stock HU puts out differential balanced signals and I need to convert them for my amp (planning on buying the Boss REV-665). I'm on a budget so I can't replace my HU (plus, the trim conversion kit costs over $300). I need it for 3 channels (fronts and a sub).. so a 4 channel one would work. I've heard the David Navone ones are good (NE-774V) but am concerned with things like this. Are they the best ones compared to just any LOC or should I look at something else? Ideally, I'd like to get the Audiocontrol LC6i/7 but that's out of my budget. Thanks.

I cant do both. I have one Iraggi HO alt rated 160-200A @ idle, 220A peak should I add 1 more bigger alt to the AC bracket or add 2 more 100aH Oreilley AGMs, Intimidator knock offs

I have a JBL BP1200.1 and a JL 300/4 I recently disconnected/reconnected my battery and now both amps are refusing to power on. I checked with a multi meter that they ARE getting power but not even the lights are coming on. The JBL has 3 external fuses, all in tact, and the JL does not have any external fuses. What's the next step? Do I have to open these things up to inspect any internal fuses that may exist?

So I'm planning on running one run of zero gauge from the batt to a distro block (Like the Kicker PDK1 if anyone feels like looking) so that I don't have to drill two holes in my firewall. But the SAX1200D just shot up from 315 to 375, (just outta my price range) so I'm gonna get a refurbished SAZ1500D from DB-r. My question is, since the distro block is going to be 0ga in and 4ga out, can I run two runs of 4 ga to the 1500D (as my other amp will be an SAX125.2) and feed the it the current it needs? Or will it not be enough and possibly overload my one run of 0ga? (it'd be a decent 0ga wire too, btw. Like Stinger or maybe Kicker)

got a kenwood kac 9013d amp here that went into protection one day in my brother's car. it was temporarily mounted to the sub box at the time and powering a kicker l7 15 (which is now dead due to cracked magnet and shifted motor)in a ~4 cube ported box. so what happens is every time it is powered on it will go into protection. i looked the board over and i dont see anything burnt. however i did find a capacitor with one of it's leads broken off. here is what info i can get from the capacitor: 50v 47uF (microfarad), appears to under a brand ELNA, CE85(degree symbol)C which i assume means ceramic and 85C is max temp rating, right under that last line it reads 0718 which …