Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Since I have them I may as well post some internals of one of my new toys. Everything looks bigger than my old US Amps USA 100

i have 2 powerbass XS-15D1v.2 and i was wondering if the powerbass xa3000d would be to much power for my subs? if so what could of amp should i use?

anyone know if its legit, does it do what it says?

I have one run of 4g to my 730wrms amp, with big three done in 4g, but I'm still dimming really badly. im almost positive its my batt, but i haven't tested my alt yet.. anyway, which of these batteries should i get (to replace stock batt): kinetik hc 1400 - ah:60 amps: 1500 kinetik hc 800 -- ah:36 amps: 950 or something else that will hopefully solve my dimming problem? i dont know much about batts, any advice would really be appreciated. thanks to all.

My dad got a used 05 Mustang back in the summer, and it came with a Eclipse CD4000 deck in it. I got him a pair of Alpine Type R Componant Speakers for Christmas. I was planning on installing it for him, but he insisted on haveing the car audio shop I got it from to install it (yeah, he don't trust me tearing apart his car). Anyway, I also had a Pioneer 2x60 Watts laying around to power the componants, and a Massive 1000 Watt amp and a 12" Adire Brahma. I took the Pioneer and Massive amp along to have the shop install those too and feed the wires for me, so I have the sub amp ready for the Brahma. So, yesterday, I stuck the Brahma into one of my old boxes (a sealed…

Im looking for a good reliable amp with will do at least 1500 RMS at 1 ohm at 12v and be as efficiant as possible. No more than 2000 RMS at 1 ohm. I have my mind set on a RF T1500.1BD but Im open to new ideas.

Just wondering where I should connect my stinger voltmeter.. I read some how-tos on it and it seems pretty simple but I haven't really seen a defined place to attach it to. Should I toss it on the front battery (under the hood) or in the trunk with the bat back there and wire it to the drivers seat?

What are some thoughts on this amp? Just curious for others opinion because i never heard of them http://compare.ebay.com/like/170994045571?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

So. my hifonics brutus bxi1208d is causing distortion, it doesn't start up instantly but as it gets going it starts to CLIP hard, the clipping light isn't going off or anything, im assuming its the heat? its about 100 degrees Fahrenheit. i have an Kinetik Hc 600, 4 gauge wire, stock alt. i get what i'd payed for right?

Friend, I am from Nicaragua and have a couple of questions: I have a single Rockford amplifier T20001 (2500 - 2800 rms ) with 2 TRF 12 ... and i hit 145.6 db.....Now.... i wanna buy another T200001....my question is: It could increase the db with another T20001 or not. How many db can i increase if put each T20001 with each TRF 12" 1.5? 2? 2.5? 3? Thanks

need diagram for wireing more than 2 - 8v batterys together ? is there a sticky with pics ???

I have been talking on here for some time now trying to figure out how to beef up my electrical enough to withstand a SAZ-3500D (or maybe I should just go with the AQ-2200D? for a single 18" Fi BTL) and a SAX-50.4. Now I have been looking more and more on other forums because I have pretty much read most of the posts here that are relevant. But It seems I am having conflicting ideas. For one, people on other forums say capacitors are the best thing ever. Get one 1.5-2x the rms load of your sub(s) and you will save yourself money because you wont have to buy a new alt or stock up a battery farm. Now I read on here that people thin capacitors are junk, why? I just want the …

i got my hands on one.. it should be here in the morning.. i got it from a friend.. his dad has it in one of his old broken down trucks, (rednecks with lots of money) anyhow, his dads, brother did SPL back in the 90's and this is one of the amps he used... he knows im into spl so he asked what i would give for it... i know its a surf borad cheater amp fom years past, i knew them to be a pinkish purple but he says this one is silver, and about 4 feet long, he said the number on it is HC100 .... anyway. its in working cond, what kinda resale am i looking at on this?

anyone know of any good 2000 watt amps? i would like to put 2 saz1000's but its a lil out of my price range, but if all else fails ill just get 1 saz1500

im gonna run dual alts, my stock one on the redtop for the starter battery, and then a 250a one im buying from kickinaudio for the system...i have 2 15" mt's and 2 orion d5000s. should i run stinger batts or svr? or what else is there? i was thinking the svr80-12's(maybe 2 of them?) or a stinger 2150? i want to get the most out of these amps. they will be running at 1 ohm for sure, possibly .5 ohm...idk yet. thanks, VJ.

Have mb quart component speakers (front stage) w/ external crossovers. My head unit powered these front speakers. Standard install, the speaker wire from my crossovers were spliced into my harness. i clipped the speaker wire. For testing purposes only i spliced more speaker wire to run back to my amp. I put the right speaker in the right channel and the left etc. Pulled out my head unit, and setup my rca's and ran them to the amp. Tested both sets of rca's in teh back of my head unit and no workie. Power and ground was simple, I already had a distro block and T connector for my ground. I daisey chained the remote turn on from my sub amp to the eclipse 2 channel. …

im having major voltage drop and headlight dimming i have a rockford fosgate t1500-1bd and a power acoustik 1000max 4channel have stock battery and stock alt, all in a 2000 chevy silverado single cab 4.3L V6 also have big 3 done with kolussus fleks 1/0awg would a bigger battery help, like a kinetic HC2000, help or what should i do thank you

the input voltage on this amp is .25 to 2.5 my head unit has 4 volt pre-outs. Will this cause a problem?

i read what i could find on what makes an amp what class but nothing on how each performs. why i'm wondering is i'm considering using an ab amp bridged for my sub. i'm trying for what i would imagine is described as LSQ.

I have spent most of yesterday checking connections and redoing them. Before that the only thing I did was actually put a crimp on the main remote line running to the amps as to how I had them before just twisted together and taped. before the crimp I rarely got that THUD sound and now it happens every time I take key out of ignition without turning off radio first. Heres what I have kenwood HU running to, clarion EQ, from there to one Rockford P1000-1bd and a P400-4 I guess I'm being lazy and should just undo that crimp but I think that crimp is stronger than just twisting line together, could I be wrong? could I have done the crimp wrong?

Guys where can i find a good alternators for my 2001 dodge neon, something good at a reasonable price...some numbers would be nice too

Someone told me that one of the usamps line of amplifiers lie about there actual wattage they are putting out. is this true, if so which series of there amplifier is this?

It seems as though a nightmare has occured because yesterday my voltage was very low and my battery light kept flickering on and off. I went to O'Riellys and they told me my battery was bad. I have owned the Kinetik HC1800 for only about 6 months now and I have a custom 240 amp alternator (12v). I need advice please! If in fact the battery is bad what to I change to? Here are the specs: 2001 Ford Windstar LX Pioneer Head Unit 0 gauge & big three 2 alpine type rs hifonics brz1200d @1ohm Kinetik HC1800 (claimed to be bad after 6 months?) The gentleman at O'Reillys told me to switch to an Optima? As a car audio guy I though Optimas weren't the way to go? I was thinki…

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hey whats up im thinking about getting a complete audio control set-up has anyone used them how is good stuff, any pro's or cons id like to hear thanks