Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a question for you guys I have 2 amps 1 for mids and 1 for highs My question is how do I wire both amps ? Both amps have multiple rca inputs... Mids amp is crescendo 1100.4 and highs amp is cheap kenwood 300 watt amp head unit has high mid and sub rca outputs any help will be great Carlos

So I've been looking online for answers to my dull sense of fully understanding these questions. I have an alpine cde149bt, that I am just not fully comprehending. I have read up and down and searched forums to some avail, but not fully. Im hoping you gurus can help to clarify some things. Now, I have xover settings, with f/r hpf, lpf, frequency and slope. Now I understand these all fairly well, but on this, where I have gotten confused is: does the front hpf control highs, and rear hpf control mids? Or is it as it sounds, front does front, rear does rears? Next is, by setting frequency, slope and levels on xover, how much of an affect does it cause within bands of parame…

Hey guys I was just wondering what what ppl would choose! either 2 - batcap 2000 bnib or 1 XS d5100 and 1 xs d3100 bnib The batcaps will be about $536shipped The xs will be about $650shipped. The price isn't a factor to me i am just wondering which would be a better pick? my car audio right now is 2krms and in the future i wnat to push 4-5krms thanks for your time and suggestions Kenneth

I'm looking into the 8455, but Eclipse has the worst site in the world with little info. I'm wondering if the aux input is direct connection, or do you need an adapter like on Pioneer and Alpine? Also, anyone friends with any dealers that will ship to me? The local dealer here is horrible and I refuse to give them my business. Thanks!

Hey everybody, I'm looking around for an amp, so far I've been told to look up the US Amps AX3200DE and the Sundown Audio 3000. Both seem the same to me...anybody have any input on this? I'm looking to run an 18" BTL fully loaded for daily use (not so much for competition). Thanks, Andrew

what is the best amp for 1200RMS at 1 ohm that is pretty cheap.

My bro is looking for a head unit for the 2007 F150 he just bought. He's wanting a double din with these options: Blue Tooth capable Satellite Ready Nav System – Easily updatable (prefer no DVDs, but flexible on this) Traffic Receiver Back Up Camera capable He's looking at this: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZeS1vjeeznh/I-rEMTcVSL/s_105NT3HDT/JVC-KW-NT3HDT.html?ssi=0&tp=27996 but I recall from my head unit shopping a couple years ago that gurus recommended to stay away from JVC. He's having trouble finding another brand with all of the options he wants. Any recs?

So. my hifonics brutus bxi1208d is causing distortion, it doesn't start up instantly but as it gets going it starts to CLIP hard, the clipping light isn't going off or anything, im assuming its the heat? its about 100 degrees Fahrenheit. i have an Kinetik Hc 600, 4 gauge wire, stock alt. i get what i'd payed for right?

Ok so I got a new to me truck. It has a stereo in it already which is good. A JL 12w1v2 in a sealed truck box, hertz components, a rockford punch 300.1, and a kenwood excelon x797 I don't like the x797 so I put my kenwood excelon x998 in it. I can't see the display at all on sunny days with this headunit. I want a new single din with 4v+. I don't care about active, or a CD player. If it has a CD ok no big deal. I love all the features of my x998 but its just no doing it for me anymore. I'm more about features. I will not spend more than $250 so that leaves out the 80prs it seems. I have been looking at alpine. kenwood, pioneer. I think I'm liking the al…

Someone told me that one of the usamps line of amplifiers lie about there actual wattage they are putting out. is this true, if so which series of there amplifier is this?

I have been considering running dual alts in my silverado and was wanting to know a few things... 1. I have a Mechman 270 installed right now. Can I install my stock alt and add the mechman back on a dual alt bracket? 2. Can I use the stock alt to run stock electrical and the mechman to run everything else? Or do I have to run them together? 3. How do I wire in the second alt if its possible to run the different sizes?

just read up on the PG site and the Xenons are discontinued, and so goes the XeLoad with the flexiable 1-4ohm stability with similar output, suprised they are going this way, seems as if the Xenon was the step between the Titanium and the Tantrum, and now they are dropping it, so the new Rsd line is taking the place of the Xenon and none are ratted to be 1 ohm stable, what is going on, PG has always been a company with a top end line to aspire to have, now I am not so sure and this goes for the subs and components too, are they down grading to stay afloat and jumping on the F&F bandwagon?

Wondering what you guys think are some good amps with something of this configuration. 1200-1500w @ 2ohm. Class D, mono sub amp, Simple xo would be nice, I like allen-set screws for terminals. Dependable, clean, and consistant on output. Also, something I don't have to spend $800 on. thanks.

Does anyone know of where i could send my amp to get fixed and or beefed up a little bit? just curious. i burn a cap in my 3k and i was looking to maybe send it out and get that fixed but also beef it up and have them make it one Ohm stable. Its an Audiopipe Ap 3000.1d.

I have been talking on here for some time now trying to figure out how to beef up my electrical enough to withstand a SAZ-3500D (or maybe I should just go with the AQ-2200D? for a single 18" Fi BTL) and a SAX-50.4. Now I have been looking more and more on other forums because I have pretty much read most of the posts here that are relevant. But It seems I am having conflicting ideas. For one, people on other forums say capacitors are the best thing ever. Get one 1.5-2x the rms load of your sub(s) and you will save yourself money because you wont have to buy a new alt or stock up a battery farm. Now I read on here that people thin capacitors are junk, why? I just want the …

Huge disappointment on this purchase, went to hook up my amp yesterday get to the point to install the 100amp fuse block... Epic fail! Both Alan wrenches I received wouldn't fit, had to cut down my 4awg wire to make it fit in the fuse block, pretty much they give u a 10awg fuse holder for a 4awg kit, Why kicker why? Hmmm last time I checked I wasn't trying to have a Mickey Mouse system, thanks kicker..... Js I expect that trash if I bought it from eBay... This was a retail store purchase, yes I went back all the 4awg kits were this way... Recommended fuse block ? Post opions thanks

i got my friend's stock HU from his civic cuz he got a new one and i want to install it into my 88crx but the back of his HU doesnt have wires hanging like most aftermarket ones, it has a slot just to plug the stock car harness into, so now what

Did some testing this morning on my electrical. At the post on my alt im reading at 12.4v idle and 11.9v under load. Is there something on my Durango that would cause it not to charge at 14.4v at idle? or is it my alt going out? Its a 4.7l dodge Durango 2004 model. 270a Tenney alt.

I have one run of 4g to my 730wrms amp, with big three done in 4g, but I'm still dimming really badly. im almost positive its my batt, but i haven't tested my alt yet.. anyway, which of these batteries should i get (to replace stock batt): kinetik hc 1400 - ah:60 amps: 1500 kinetik hc 800 -- ah:36 amps: 950 or something else that will hopefully solve my dimming problem? i dont know much about batts, any advice would really be appreciated. thanks to all.

Im looking for a good reliable amp with will do at least 1500 RMS at 1 ohm at 12v and be as efficiant as possible. No more than 2000 RMS at 1 ohm. I have my mind set on a RF T1500.1BD but Im open to new ideas.

need diagram for wireing more than 2 - 8v batterys together ? is there a sticky with pics ???

I need the biggest and best batt I can possibly get my hands on. Not looking too spend over $1000 for 2 and the battery can not be over 800 sq in. Im going to be having 2 RD D5 each wired at .25 ohms on it and am only allowed 2 batteries total. I already no my voltage is going to drop extremely low, thats why I need to know what my best options are for 2 batteries. I am going to be having a 350 amp alt too fyi

So last night I sat down and made a small list of wiring and accessories I'll need to get my saz 3500d powered. I'll be running one battery upfront and two in the back. The extra 0 gauge is for the big 3...Any advice on better products or a cheaper source would be appreciated.. http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinger-SPD5203-Pro-Classic-ANL-0%7B47%7D4-Gauge-Inline-Fuse-Holder.html x 3 @ $35 - 3 fuse holders http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Tsunami-5-Pack-Gold-ANL-Fuses-%28Choose-Size%29.html x 1 - $8 - 5 300amp fuses http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinger-SHI2120-HPM-1-RCA-Cable-20FT.html x 2 - $24 - 20ft rcas http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinge…

hey whats up im thinking about getting a complete audio control set-up has anyone used them how is good stuff, any pro's or cons id like to hear thanks

the input voltage on this amp is .25 to 2.5 my head unit has 4 volt pre-outs. Will this cause a problem?