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what can this amp really do with (2) fi bl 18"s? overated or underated?
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i have a orion 2500d and it has an intelli W with HPF on it what is it and is it important
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Im looking into getting the 10" FI Bl sub fully loaded with a 1cuft (or maybe slightly bigger if i can) ported. Theres a site im sure a few of you guys have heard of that sells them refurbished. well anways. on this site they have the... SAE-1200Dv1 SAE-1200Dv2 SAZ-1500D ... these three are listed right now and im curious which one would fit me better. i dont want to run an extra battery if possible just due to the hassle. any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!
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I have a Cadence ZRS-C65 with two SA-10 D2s. When setting the gain, do I go by the impedance the subs are wired to (2ohm), or what they actually measure at when I test the wires with a DMM (2.7ohm)? Also, when voltage drops does the power drop, or does the amp draw more to keep power where it should be? My electrical isnt up to par at the moment (all stock), so I sit 13.8v idle, and drop to high 12s when the amp reads ~30v. So if thats 450w at 2ohm, which would be 32amps if it stayed at 13.8v. Since it doesnt, and drops to about 12.8v, does that mean it draws 35amps instead to make the 450w, or does it continue to draw 32amps and only put out 410w? And when figuring effi…
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tomorrow is quiver on the river, a TP usaci outlaw spl event..last year i took first in my class with a 145.5 using two 15" treo ss's (yeah, the ones that claimed a rear glass in a ryan built box, helped crack my windshield[rock chip]) using a memphis st1000d...in my old dodge. well, i've got the orion in my truck at .5ohm (roughly 27-2800wrms b4 impedence rise) on a s18x...would u think that's stronger then a mojo running at 2ohms? i have a borrowed st series (i believe.it's silver chrome with the non flamed logo) sitting on my dining table. would it handle .5ohm for burps? a local world champion says the mojo is stronger at 2 ohm then the orion at .5ohm...i know he know…
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I have one run of 4g to my 730wrms amp, with big three done in 4g, but I'm still dimming really badly. im almost positive its my batt, but i haven't tested my alt yet.. anyway, which of these batteries should i get (to replace stock batt): kinetik hc 1400 - ah:60 amps: 1500 kinetik hc 800 -- ah:36 amps: 950 or something else that will hopefully solve my dimming problem? i dont know much about batts, any advice would really be appreciated. thanks to all.
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ok..I have 4 AA 8's and a hifonics amp 2000 watt brtus. My amp will be on and then out of no where it will shut off. then come back a little bit later it started this when it got cold out. Does anyone know why or how I can fix this.
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Hi Thomas! The surface mounted board has been damaged on your unit. They do not make this part anymore.. This is going require patience in locating another usable surface mounted board at about $75. to $100. extra plus the $119.95 already quoted. Do you want to authorize us to proceed? or at this point a $35.00 fee plus shipping is applied. (evaluation estimate fee). Please let us know your wishes on this repair. A repair time of two to four weeks is estimated after your authorization to proceed. arsehos quoted me 100$ Wrong So theres 60$ shipping $119.95 + 100 for parts. fudge i could have just bought another orion 2500D
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When you run active does that mean the driver of the car gets the best sound? Not the passengers?
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Do you like the new 45 degree angled connectors or the straight out connectors?
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Is the Deka decent at start vehicles? My dad offered to put $200 to a new battery for me, and I have heard nothing but good things about the Deka's. Anyone have any major problems? And how does it compare to the Optima Yellow Top?
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http://www.cardomain.com/item/ULTDD11300SB
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ok i had 2 mmats 3500.5 but those where lost(plz dont ask I still what to kill the wife) so i need to get 3 amps for 3 d1 btl 18 fully loaded but stay under 2100 bucks for all 3 to my door any ideas
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HU: Alpine 9885 (4V) Front speakers: CDT CL-62 (160RMS) Rear speakers: CDT 69X (100RMS) Subwoofer: Fi 12" Here's how I have them wired. Front speakers are amplified, rear speakers are running off the head unit. The rear speakers start to distort at around 25/35 HU volume. Why? Ideally I would have preferred to have my HU @ ~30/35 for PEAK listening levels. But as of now, since the rears distort so early I have my front speakers and sub tuned to peak at around 22/35. Most of the audio is definitely coming from the front and the rears are doing a good job imagining, but I find that I could get much more out of my system if the rears weren't limiting me so much. What are my …
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ive recently upgraded my subs and now i cant hear anything when im full tilt. im going to delete the rear speakers and i was looking for a decent 2 ch amp for my front speakers. im curious to see if you guys have any suggestions for a budget amp that can do ~50-100 rms each @ 2 ohm. i had a few questions also. if the amp had lets say 1% THD would that be noticeable? also how important is the signal to noise ratio? would 80db be really bad? (these are extreme examples) another thing, if the amp is cea compliant does that mean their THD and signal to noise numbers must be true, or is it only hold true to rms ratings? thanks!
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ok guys im starting a thread here to discus some real cheap amp, new and used, that would be acceptable for a budget setup like mine. also, the new option must have some significant advantages for justifying the purchase. i have to run off shortly so i cant type up to much right now. what i have now is a kicker zx100.2 and kx250.2 powering sls8's and peerless 3" full range. my dad is interested in the 100.2 for 30 bucks (baught for 50) and my bro is interested in the 250.2 for 70 (paid 90) and im willing to throw in 100 bucks tops for a $200 budget. some things that id like to get out of this are, 1 a good quality amp that i can expect to last thru college (3 years), …
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I've been doin a little research so stop me if i'm wrong. I need an EQ, large band, so that when i setup my amps, i can get the amplitude on as many frequencies as possible to their max potential without clipping because the output power on all frequencies is not the same... Ok, so, i found out that graphic vs parametric... parametric eq is better for this because of it's larger bandwidth. So, this is the only thing i have came up with, let me know what u think if it'll work for me or anything else you can think of- Audiocontrol DQS - it has 30band but do not know if it's graphic or parametric... Audiocontrol DQXS - it has, hehe, 142! I dont think it matters what type …
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anyone have experience with these? I was thinking about getting a 400.2 or 500.2 to power to power my front stage(once i can decide on a set) because they look like they have a lot of features for the money. Anyone know anything about these amps?
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I have an old school LP 1502IQ. It has not be modded. I'm getting ready to start putting together something for my wife's car. She wants a good sounding front stage with minimal bass from a sub. She listens to all kinds of music. Is this amp worth sending out to be modded and put on a component set of Focals or similar? Or should I just sell it and get a Sundown amp. If I go with the Sundown amp...could the 100.4 do the front components and also a sub like the SA-8 on pre-sale now? This is going in a Kia Spectra5. The specs show that it has to have a slim mount component set. Does anyone know of any components around the same quality as the Focals that are shall…
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How are they as far as doing rated power and being musical or are they just a ground pounder amp. I am particularly looking at the VLX 1de and 2de. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.
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Im thinking about preordering the SAE1200D to replace my Kx1200.1. Is Sundown a better made amp? Could i please get pros and cons of Sundown amps. I also heard that Sundowns draw less amps then Kickers is that true
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which is better? the kenwood KVT 815dvd or the clarion VRX935VD? shane(HCCAfan) told me that the clarion HU's skip alot...anyone running the clarion or the kenwood? im getting one of them for xmas, dont know which one i should get tho....give me ur opinions.....thanks.
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So the other day I was messin' a but with my audio equipment... I noticed a very distinct buzzing coming from my front stage amp... realizing this could be a number of issues, I've ruled out the wiring already... I am going to take this time to upgrade my amp from the Kenwood 4ch to a Soundstream 2ch... Was looking into the Sundown 125.2 but for the money the Soundstream has more headroom.... This is the amp... TRA800.2 : Specs are as follows: * OUTPUT (WATTS):RMS @ 4 Ohms: 200x2 * RMS @ 2 Ohms: 400x2 * RMS Bridged @ 4 Ohms: 800 X 1 * T.H.D.: < 0.02% * Frequency Response (Hz): 10 - 50k * SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: > 115dB * DAMPING FACTOR:…
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Well I have built a box for my btl that is 4.8 cubes tuned to 33 hz and the btl should be here any day now....i have a T10001bd but its sold because i know i need more than that for the btl....so i have about 400$ to spend....what is the best amp or amps for that price to push THE btl the best....or if there is one amp that in the long run i can get 2 one for each 2ohm coil....you know get one now and one later....what is yalls op.....thanks Edit....its fully loaded forgot to add that...p-cham,xmax,trip mag shoulda got the dual 1 but oh well lol
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this is really wierd. umm after i hooked up my friends speakers. when it was at my house, there was no noise at all. but now my friend calls me when he gets home, and he hears this high pitch whistling noise comin from the speakers, but its only at low volumes. When he turns the volume high, the noise goes away and everything is fine. I'm guessing a ground problem, but there is no noise from the subs and why did it appear when my friend get home?
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