Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

what does everything think of these? i had the 1500 watt version early in the year running 4 ohm on an old school eclipse 12, never ran hot, had no issues with it and i loved the small size of it but people either love it or hate it. i only ask because audiopipe came out with a new 2000 watt model and it looks promising as does most AP products due to cost/watt ratio. looking to actually compete this next year in street stock and street trunk. I'm working with a budget of about $400 for an amp. Ramrod and i have been talking but i also want to get some input from others in the competition world. will end up running either 2 12 gcons or icons. just waiting on the w3s i hav…

ive read people saying to use the fuse rating to get a idea of how much rms power a amp will give you, can someone explain this to me? is there a formula to multiply or something to get an idea of this?

I am just wondering, how do you calculate the voltage output of an amp? Also how do you calculate the amperage output?

Hey guys, As mentioned I'm soon to be upgrading my system and Id like to get your opinions on if I'm on the right track here. Ill start off by what I already have: Car: 2000 Honda CR-V Battery: XS D5100R Big 3: Done with 1/0 Wiring: 2 Runs of 4 gauge to amps Amps: Rockford Fosgate T1000bd and T400-2 Speakers: 2 Alpine type S's up front and 2 JBL GTO 628's in the rear Sub: SSA Xcon D2 15 in a sealed enclosure. As expected I have bad Voltage drop down into the 11's. I will be strengthening my electrical shorty. Short term goals: 1. Add another Xcon and port the enclosure. I am considering doing a wall and sealing off behind and around the rear seats. 2. Replace t…

Alright. Today is such a good day out that I decided to start getting somethings tossed into the car (FINALLY!). I popped off the door panels (easy) and the floor panels (pain in the ass) to start running wires. I popped out the cd player as well and kind of went oh s**** because its a wiring nightmare in there... I have been looking around online now for at least an hour for wiring diagrams to see what goes to where and so far no luck... Any ideas where I can look (or does anybody have one?). The wiring diagram that came with the cdplayer is generic and doesn't look like its correct.

OK long story short. I bought a crescendo c1100.4 everything runs fine when the car is off, I can turn it up loud as ever it sounds clean. When I start the car after a while the amp goes into protect. I sent it back to crescendo they tell me nothing is wrong. When I got the amp back I did step by step problem testing, I changed the RCA's hooked them up one by one, changed speaker wires, changed to soldered grounds and power tips, and I even changed my head unit. The same problem happens, I did a test to see how long it would play when the car is off and it STAYS on and plays loud and nice for a loooooong time. When I turn the car on same volume etc it goes into protect af…

will i need for 8 Crescendo Audio BC3500? thanks

What is the lowest ohm the sundown SAZ-2500d can drop down to and still be stable?

I have a friend running a 300w PowerBass amp to a 10" powerbass sub in his single cab Ford Ranger. He called me the other day and said he was driving around town "bumping" and his sub randomly quit working. This kid knows little to nothing about car audio, so he calls me with his problems. I went and looked at his amp and sub too see if I could figure anything out. The sub felt warm, and the amp was REALLY hot. When I played music through the system, at a very low volume, (vol 1-3), sound came out fine.. but when it got above that, the protect light came on on the amp, and would burp random thumps (not from the music) about every 3-5 seconds. With the key turned to "On", …

Ok so i got a 3sixty.1 It was free and brandnew versus the cost of a 3sixty.2 I know theres a big difference but i figure free can negate those differences for you. Anyway. My radio has some alternator whine/engine noise. Its an AVIC-F90BT. I was wondering if the 3sixty would negate the engine noise because its grounded or would it just simply amplify it. Thanks guys.

Ok, im looking for a head unit that is vibration resistant, clean output, good looking (matching my interior, ill post pics if i am asked), plays MP3's and WMA's preferably (so i can keep one CD in for 3-4Hr drives), and i would like an RCA in too but that isnt required. I only need 2 sets of RCA's. I would like pause as well (if i ever want to compeate bass race it would be nice) Im getting a $139 refund from Ikes Sound for the DEI1100D (its good because i paid $70 for the amp, send 29 to get it repaired. Im basically making $40) and soon ill have around $100 from my parents, maybe more if i score awsome on the ACT (lol). so my budget is around $240 and the above is what…

Are these any good? the amp I'm getting, an AQ2200d requires a 200 amp fuse, and im using 2/0 welding cable so i figure il ljust get five, best bang for my buck and in case any pop i'll have an extra http://cgi.ebay.com/Tsunami-200-Amp-ANL-Fu...bayphotohosting And for a fuse block/holder, should I use the typical screw down the cable, or should I get the ones that you use a wire terminal on each end and just touch the fuse together? Have any suggestions on some? I need 2 affordable ones, but 3 if they are REALLY affordable.. I'm not trying to cheap out, but I just don't think its necessary to spend 75$ on three fuses... (since I'm using 2/0 thats why I'm wondering becaus…

seems like this only does it on these amps, any other brand amps i never really noticed this...but anyways, ill have a speaker connected, and ill have the gains on 0. i gradually put the gains up, and the loudness/volume doesnt move. it gets louder only when i get to like right before 3/4 of the way up....is that normal? does this on both of my 150's and both of my 45's... i just think thats odd, like ill put the gains at 1/2, and its the same as having the gains at 0....

I'll be running a sundown 1200D and a sundown 100.4D to a Fi BL 12'' and a set of hertz HSK 165's Going in a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500. Big 3 will be done The battery that I have now is a Autocraft Silver.. It says on the top something like crank amps at 32 degrees is 935 The alternator that's on there is this: Think I'll be good, or should I get a yellowtop to put under the hood?

Since the recent install of my 18" BTL. When I have the windows more than half way up my deck skips real bad.. its a nice pioneer premier. Ill burn a new cd, go spin around for a few hours and my cd has scratch rings under it from the vibration lol.. anyone ever have this problem? what was your solution? Deck is a Pioneer Premier DEH-P780MP

im getting audioque 15inch alum coiled and my amp is Hifonics BXI2008D 2000-Watt Super D-Class Brutus Amp 1-Channel Mono-Block with 5.0 frad cap so i wonder what gauge wire size i should get for it?.. silver or copper? or what?

so i am wanting to buy a new amp for my Focal KRX2's ...they are 2 ohm... i will post specs below for the speakers... right now i have them ran off a candence TRX 3004 bridged.. they seem to like power.. i bought the Boss audio zed built amp and was going to try it.. but after getting it and seeing how they want the power wire to hook thru the little spade connectrion it kind of turned me off .. going to be hard to find a way to hook my real 4 gauge power wire to it... so anyway.. now i am going to buy another amp... i want something that sounds good.. i was thinking of the Zed audio Kronos.. wanting to spend around $400.00 .. so would this be a good choice ?…

Will a aq750 be able to run at .5 ohms?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Clarion-Pro-Audio-DRZ9...1QQcmdZViewItem

I have a pheonix gold xenon 200.4 and I am looking for a new pair of components that can handle the power from this amp

I'm currently in the process of designing/setting up my first system. I currently have a pioneer deh-p690ub head unit but haven't been able to figure out all of its features yet. Can i have an active front stage with this headunit? I have a set of focal 6.5 V2 polyglass components, not installed, but i'm thinking about returning them to tweeter because after browsing through the threads here I'm sure i can get a better front stage for the money. Any input would be helpful, thanks.

Looking into running a stinger SPP1200 up under the hood and a SPP2150 in the rear. Are these batteries reliable and strong enough to support 3000 - 3500rms on stock electrical with big3 and 130amp alt. And how do these compare to the others like Powermaster Kinetik etc. Any and all info would be greatly appreciated thanks.

Has anyone ever ordered a refurbished amp? How did it work out for you? And would you buy one again?

Not too sure what to think of these... 100ah batteries for 160 bucks? I'm assuming that build quality isn't there compared to other high end battery makers, would they even be worth using? I'll probably be needing some backup electrical sometime soon and don't have a ton of money.

I currently have a rockford 1500.1 amplifier, 2 12" fi q's a power acoustik 5 farad capacitor and a stinger sp 680 car audio battery. I have been having problems with the amplifier and am not sure what it is thats wrong or what I can try next or if the amp is possibly deffective. the amp is currently turned up a little less than half way and when I put the base all the way up on the head unit and turn the volume up about 3/4 the way up the amp will shut off. The red light does not come on to put the amp into protection or anything just the amp turns off than back on a few seconds later. I have upgraded the big 3 with 4 gauge wire and ran 0 gauge wire from the battery back…