Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

well my batterys i have is 1d4300 in the front and 2 3100 in the trunk i have aso a mechman 270 alt for my car my voltage reads in the front 14.1-14.2 but since my voltmeter in the back and off my amp it shows at the highest 13volts why could that be i just charged the batterys as well so idk any help

I turn on my car today, and I get nothing out of the front speakers except some buzzing, popping, and engine whine. Everything was perfect last night when I turned the car off. I'm driving an 08 Scion tC, JVC KD-AHD69 head unit with a CV 400.4 amp running a pair of Diamond Audio D3's in the front, my rear speakers are powered by the head unit. I checked fuses, ground, power, and RCA's: they are all good. Here is a video I took of what the sound is, and the second is of the front speakers picking up the sound of my mirror as I adjust it. Any help anybody?

I'm wondering what most people use for a good quality front stage. The amp I'm currently using is a TMA T320.4 (JL company). It does the following: 60W x 4 @ 4 ohm 80W x 4 @ 2 ohm 160W x 2 @ 4ohm (bridged) Speakers used in conjunction with: 6.5" CDT Audio ES-620, rated for 150W @ 4ohm I just picked up a SAZ-1000D and a 12" Fi Q and these will be running together. This leaves the TMA to run my front stage solely. I'm worried about bridging the amp because its a pretty cheap amp, and I figure it'll be toast within a year or so if I bridge (if that). Also, the power isn't terribly clean as its a cheap brand amp, though the quality is good (I'm running 60W x 4 out of jus…

Hey guys I have a 98 ext cab Ram with 2 SSD 15's in the backseat and now I need a decently priced 4 channel amp I have been looking at the MB Quart Discus 4x125 are they any good or do u guys have any other suggestions I'd like to keep the price under 150 any help would be appreciated

So I installed my 4 AA Carbon fibers and my SAX-100.4 just now and when i turn my truck off a "POP" comes from the speakers, i only turned my truck off twice so i only heard it twice and i think its coming from 2 speakers. How do i get it to stop thanks guys.

Alrighty, so i finally got my front stage installed. But when i first turned everything on each speaker has just about as much, if not more, static than music output. I tried messing with the Xover setting and such, but nothing seemed to change it. Amp: Sundown 100.4 HU: JVC KDs100 Mids: AA carbon fibers Tweets: Seas Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) I've only tinkered with the speakers playing for ~10 minutes, for fear of damaging anything. I'm at a loss of what could make this kind of noise, to every speaker. makes me think it has to do with the amp? All of this stuff is brand new. I did plug in one mid, might have done the other i dont remember, to my factory speaker wire fro…

Hey guys, The system in my 2011 Ram is driving me crazy... Here is what is going on. At high volumes the draw from the amplifiers is kicking my trucks ass. The dash lights are dimming, the voltage drop is causing my HID lights to kick on and off, and I'm pretty sure that the PCM is trying to compensate by increasing the voltage regulation from the alternator. The voltage regulator is controlled by the PCM. It is not built into the alternator. When it is playing loud, it seems like the PCM is kicking the voltage up to about 15.5v according the my Bel radar detector voltage display and the HI VOLT warning it keeps flashing and beeping at me. The truck has a 180amp alternato…

Howdy, I need some help here. I have two FI 15 BTL subs. Double voice coil,heat ring,etc,etc all options on the sub and built for daily playing. I have two brutus 2600's run by a controller. the amps or subs are not wired together. I also have installed besides the two 850 cranking amp ford battereis, two Kinetik 3800 watt batteries. The altrnator is (was) a 250Amp altenator built by Excessive amperage. After a week to 10 days the alternator gave out. I mean fried. I never ran the system at full power because I am still breaking in the subs. What could have caused the alternator to fry?? or was it just a bad alternator?? Altogether the system at full power is +/- 10400 wa…

1. Product: USP12-490MR High Rate Max Battery 2. Specs: See Link Below: http://www.dcbattery.com/dynasty-mr.pdf 3. Description/Condition: Item is in great condition and has only been used in one application for about a month and has been sitting in my garage for the last year and a half. 4. Price: : $200 Shipped 5. Pictures: See attachments

So say i set my gain at 50%, if i dont even plug in the remote knob, obviously the amp operates with 50% gain. But if i plug in the remote knob and set the knob to 100%, given the amp's gain setting is still at 50%, will i have identical output? or would i have to reset the amp's gain setting with my dmm? From what i understand, the amp's gain setting sets the maximum level of gain, and the remote adjusts the percentage of that gain setting you want to use. i.e. you have the amp gain set at 50%, and the knob at 50%, so you'd be using the equivalent of setting the amp's gain at 25% with no boost knob correct?

recently pruchased 3 sets up soundqubed pq mids looking for an amp that can power them much like everyone I am on a budget but i do not wish to sacrifice quality for price . Just having a hard time finding an amp that can fit these prequisites. any help is appreciated

I have heard several people say that Class D amps are not good full range. I agree that a Mono sub amp is not made to work at over ~250 hz. However I have seen several high end companies making them for home theater. (And not as an entry level product) Crown now uses this in their XLS series pro audio amps, again a full range product. So I found a Class D car amp, and I'm interested if anyone has used it. The Incriminator Audio 6.4 4-channel amplifier, sold on this site! How does this compare to a class a/b amp? Are there trade offs for going to the type of amp? I'd think that the efficiency would make it much easier on your electrical system. If anyone has used this, wha…

I tried searching on two sites and couldnt find it, but what does running at full tilt mean? Like blaring the volume all the way almost (3/4ths give or take) or turning the phase all the way to 180 or whatever? I dont know why I thought so, but I've always thought it was turning hte phase up...

Hey everyone, I was just pulling the OEM radio out of my 03 civic, and I was matching up the wires in accordance to my female harness. Everything matches perfectly, EXCEPT within the male harness, there is an extra wire that is red. Here is what the male harness diagram looks like: Radio 12v: white/red Radio ground: black Radio Ignition: yellow/red Radio Illumination: red/black I'm going to skip labeling the speaker wires, because that's all correct. All of that is correct, and this red wire is located directly under the red/black wire which is the illumination wire for the radio. Could this red wires function possibly be the illumination ground? If that's the case, …

i just ordered all of my wiring from knukoncepts and i want to make sure i got the right fuse type. I have an aq2200d, and i got the 200A fuse type. Is that right?

i need help picking out a good fuse block because the one I have is crap. so any suggestions would be nice thanks

I was on Knu Konceptz and was looking at an In-Line Waterproof ANL Fuse Holder w/ Fuse and KonFUSED 2 Way Digital Distribution System. I was wondering what fuses i would need? i have a 1/0AWG power that will split into a 4AWG and 8AWG for the two amps. the fuses on each of the amps is 40 and 90.

ok so this isnt my strongest point by any means but the fuse that is closest to my battery keeps blowing how can i get this to stop this is like my fifth one. i have md1d usamps and ten inch re sx wired to one ohm, battery and alt are stock most wiring is stock and i dont think any wire i have is close to one gauge someone please help and big three is not done yet

I'm about to grab up a normal ANL fuse holder from Knu when I notice they have this "high current" fuse holder that uses multiple mini ANL fuses instead of one big honker like the normal one, (not the mini). They say it will have "lower voltage drop across the fused surface area" as well as handling higher currents. Is there any validity to this statement? Has anyone had any experiece with one of these to know if it really has any great affect on voltage drop? I'm just curious...

im doing the big 3 and was wandering why people put fuses between the alt and batterie + is it to save the cars eletrical system or is it to prevent the wire from melting???

when puting the fuses back in my amp i broke the thing that holds the fuse. so right now i am just running a lead (with a fuse in it) from the holder thats not broken to the power 12v on the amp. will this be ok to keep this way. or is it wasy to just heat up the solder and put a new holder in and where can i get one. could i get a in line fuse holder and run from one lead to another and solder them in. i cant run just one amp.. there in a common camber box all 4.

Which is better to run to the amp, fuse or circuit breaker?

Was drivin around testin out new speakers and was turning up the volume, and when it hit 29/35 everything just shut off. So i figured I blew a fuse. I checked the fuse box numerous times and the fuses are all fine. Took out the HU cuz a buddy said there was a fuse behind it... nothing... I have no clue where to go from this point.

Soooo i just got my kicker zx2500.1 and will be running two Fi 15in BL's on it got all the wiring and everything except for the fuses... Any suggestions?

So my friend bought a Lanzar MaxP1200 (for some reason) and he proceeded to changes his (3) 30A fuses to (3) 40A fuses because he said that the bigger the fuse the better. Now, in my head it seems like the amp was rated at 90A for a reason but i dont know shit about fuses. So, by changing the fuses, is he screwing things up?