Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hello all, I have a Sundown SAE-1000D powering a 12" AA Havoc and a 4-channel Kenwood eXcelon powering my mids and highs. With this setup I was having a little headlight dimming at high volumes. Now even after adding the Kinetik HC600 in the trunk I still have the same dimming problem; no better or worse. I am pretty sure I have it wired properly with the 2-gauge run from the battery fused at the battery running to another fuse within 18" of the HC600 then from there to the distro block. Both fuses are 150A ANL's. The only wiring difference I have from the suggested wiring in the manual is that I have it grounded to the chassis in the back as opposed to having a grou…

I recently bought a warden 21 and its a d1 so I would have to wire my crescendo bc2k to 2 ohms or .5 ohm. Itd be ridiculous to put 1100 rms to a warden haha but also I don't wanna run my amp at .5. So what I was thinkin is buying 2 amps and strapping them at 2 ohms. Should I buy another bc2k or sell mine and buy 2 used sundown saz1500s? Do you think theres a big difference between the two? My electric consist of big 3, deka 9a31 as second batt with all 0 gauge. I know I don't have the electrical for it full tilt but its a safer option so I would be running at at least 2500 rms I'm also in the process of getting a HO alt, possibly from singer. Please explain why you would …

I was planning on this amp Hifonics BXi 1606D - Hifonics 1 Ch 1600 Watt RMS Amplifier http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3804 However, now it is crunch time to buy it, so I am having second thoughts. How would this amp be for two TC-7's. http://tcsounds.com/tc7.htm Should I consider something else? I am going to run it at 1ohm, so I think this will be good. But, any other amps better for under 300? I really dont want to pay more then that.

I currently have a 12" fi ssd (800 rms) with an alpine pdx 1.600 (600-700 rms), and I'm thinking of upgrading to 2 fi ssd 12"s with the new saz-1200d. I'm willing to upgrade from 4 to 1/0 wire, and I already have a yellow top, but will the stock alt in an 03 passat be able to keep up without terrible voltage drop?

How many in-line fuse holders do I need? 1/0 from front to a Stinger T splitter (http://www.woofersetc.com/p8033/SPD512--Stinger-1-0-Gauge-Tee-Distribution-Block.htm) and 1/0 going to SAZ-1500, and 4ga going to a Alpine PDX 4.150. I am going to order a Stinger 150 to go between the SAZ amp and the T and a 60amp to go between the Alpine amp and the T Do I also need a 250 amp inline up front under hood or is that overkill? Thanks

Hey guys! Looking for help on picking a new head unit. I've found a few, but want to see what the experts have to say or what else can be found. Will be installed in a 2011 GTI. No steering wheel controls. Base model. Requirements: Internal active crossovers Somehow able to mirror or have a really clean connection with my Android phone to where I can use apps like spotify and google maps on the unit. Don't want to have to touch my phone while driving. Double Din Dial volume knob, preferably one that "clicks" for each volume tick Ability to hook up back up camera Doesn't look too crazy Possible to keep it under $400? I don't care about CD play…

i was looking into getting a new system i looked at this amp an re audio vlx 3de and running two subs. i know it would split the wattage between the subs but how do i wire the subs to this one amp? any help i know its a stupid question but it still confuses me.

I drive a 2001 GMC Jimmy 4 door with a 4.3L Vortec V6 and want a 200 amp or so alternator to replace my stock one with and would like recommendations on what companies to look at. I am considering Excessive Amperage, Mean Green, PowerMaster and KnuKonceptz. There were others but I forgot them. Any feedback is appreciated.

what would be a good choice for an amp for type r. im not to sure what im going to go with yet. either two 12"s or one 15". any suggestions? thanks.

I know I need a fuse block going from my first battery (battery under hood) to my second battery but would I need another fuse block going from my second battery to my amp

I have an aq2200d that will be powering a ss rl-p 18 at 4 ohms. When i go to wire it up, do i use the outside pos and neg ports on the amp? Also, i have a kicker 200.4 for one set of components. I want to bridge the amp to make 100.2 at 4 ohms, but im confused when it comes to wiring it. there are two rows of inputs for speakers. one row says amp 1, and the other says amp 2. would i just do one speaker on one row, then the other on the second row? sorry its confusing. ill try and find a picture. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures.php?id=11366

So this is what I am thinking. For my 2 zcon's I need more. They want more. Currently have a 2500d but was thinking of going with a 4500d. Or maybe even 2 2500d's strapped. Only problem is, zcon's are 1 ohm. Every where I look, for strapping u want 2 ohm. Which way should I go?

havent been here for a while, just been caught up in school and what not. Need some questions answered. I want to put a yellowtop in the back about a foot or two away from the amp. KX1200.1. How would you go about doing that, I'm thinking a battery isolator to keep from draining either battery when it's turned off. What gauge would I run to the second aux battery? Where would I run it from? The isolator? The alternator? I want it to charge along with my starter battery so it doesnt stay drained if I listen to it for long enough. Do I ground the second battery to the floor or back to the original battery? I really need some help so tell me everything you know about …

Kenwood KDC-MP205 Anybody familiar with this? My step bro just got one and we CANNOT figure out how to get it to play his itouch through the AUX input

I'm changing my T600-2 running 2 P3's to a T1000_4ad. Unfortunately I have to bridge them seperately and must use two different gain controls. I wish it had a master, slave control but there independant and want to know how to balance the gain between the two subs. I don't want one sub hitting harder than the other.

Have been looking at the Crescendo 1100.4 & the DC175.4 & somewhat at the new Incriminator Audio's new 4 channel..after reading a few problems with the Crescendos amp's having problems it made me steer away..but I also read quite a bit of positive feedback also, and price is $420 shipped, While DC is ~$600 for a little bit more power.. I have (4) Audiopipe ATX 4060 ST & (4) PWX 6.5 Crescendos. Plan to wire them 2 speakers on each channel.. putting it at 2 ohms output. I wanted to go with the Crescendo Amp, because I read quite a bit of positive feedback about it, and it is in my price range, but if there is quite a bit of problems going on with them I'd …

Alright, I have an older kicker kx400.2 i believe it is and it's not working. I only found one little connection broken, which is pictured below. Would it hurt to try and push them back together and solder them lightly? It wouldn't void a warranty, and it wouldn't be a hassle, but is it safe? I don't have any other way to power it up other than a stand alone battery that was in my truck a while back. Is it safe to run it straight off the batt to test it? overall: broken part (up under the silver plate screwed in the side): other pictures:

OK OK so the new jbl amps put out 2200 watts at 1, 2, 3, 4, etc ohms right.. sooo, if i hook up 4 subs that see 1 ohm, they all get 2200 watts? or am i incorect, i mean it makes since right.

I bought a crescendo bc2000 originally for my pair of sa12s. I also bought one of those big ass 2 ch crescendo c1600.2's.. I want to use the big one and do far I got a pair of components lmao. Seems a little extreme for them.. What if I run the c1600 to the subs? Since its class AB will it have any audible difference vs the class D bc2000? Might be a stupid question but I've only ran class D Amps on subs.

I bought a 06 silverado with the bose system an i was wandering if theres a way to run a aux cord from the amp an bypass the headunit?

You know, like JL Audio Slash series & Eclipse XA series...

I'm about to grab up a normal ANL fuse holder from Knu when I notice they have this "high current" fuse holder that uses multiple mini ANL fuses instead of one big honker like the normal one, (not the mini). They say it will have "lower voltage drop across the fused surface area" as well as handling higher currents. Is there any validity to this statement? Has anyone had any experiece with one of these to know if it really has any great affect on voltage drop? I'm just curious...

I ordered a hifonics zeus 1800w amp. The spec sheet online says it uses 4ga inputs. I feel like 4ga is rather small for an 1800w amp. I know I can get wire reducers, but could I just run 2 fuse holders, and on the rear at the amp go down from 0ga to 4ga? Or should I just run 1 fuse, and solid 1/0 run to a reducer?

Here is the layout- 258A alt regulated at 14.95v wired directly to factory starting battery. Wire comes off of the starting battery and goes to the rear through solenoid then to 3 batts in the rear. When the stereo system is ran at full tilt for about 2 minutes straight, at one time recently i got a rotten egg smell that came from inside the engine bay but only under high amperage demands. Local Auto Zone fears that since the alt is ran to the starting battery first before it reaches the rear batts and amps is that it may be overcharging the starting battery. We felt the terminals onthe starting batery and they were scorching hot. So... for those who have setup high power…

I need a 2 channel amp that produces 1000-1200x2 watts rms at 2 ohms