Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

2 sets= 4 mids, 4 tweets, and 2 crossovers I was looking at the Alpine PDX 100.4, But i want other suggestions. BTW, the amp must be a minimum of 4x100watts. Thanks for the help! Joe

my xplod amp cuts in and out. I think it might have something to do with the remote since over a year ago the insulation rubbed off the wire and it came into contact with metal and burned all the insulation off. it didnt work for maybe a week, then when I tried it again it started working but it was real quiet then started working like normal. could it be fixed and how much would it cost? its a sony xplod 1600-GSD (i think) Class D mono amp

i need to get an 0/1 gauge distibution block with 3 or 4 4 gauge outs. i plan to run 8 gauge into one of the outputs, to my 35x4, this wont be a problem right? been looking at the blocks on ebay and i found a couple that look alright to me that aren't too expensive but thought i'd get some opinions before i buy some piece of chit and it wastes one of my amps. heres what i was looking at, does it look about like what i need, or is it with it to go with a stinger? is one fuse as good as another? in some auctions they say midis are better, but seems to me as long as it blows at its rated amps a fuse is a fuse. opinions? http://cgi.ebay.com/EFX-1-0-GA-4-way-DIGIT...1QQcmdZVi…

yup so basically this is why i own 5 of them total now and for being under 150 dollars u cannot beat it

My lights don't dim or anything, maybe slightly if i crank it up. but its an 05 Civic, stock alt and battery...is there still any concerns i should be aware of? my amps: JLA 400/4 (using 75x2 currently) class a/b MTX 1501d (using about 1400 watts, 1.33ohm load) class d 4 guage power. Overall, system seems fine, nothing cutting out..etc. The OEM alt is a Mitsubishi, no idea how many amps it pushes but i'd be suprised if its over 100a. if lights don't dim, is it ok?

Rated Capacitance

tested my new spl meter and got my 155 (155.7) and then click nothing, one amp is lit blue and the other is red, is there a way to reset it, i wired them down to .5 ohms strapped, should i rewire them back to 2 ohms or what can i do to get my bass back. Its the master amp that went into protect. PLEASE HELP.............

Here is my set up HU - 880PRS Sub - IDQ12 (DVC) Front - HAT "L" 2 way (coming soon) I was thinking of running the 125.2 bridged 4-ohm to the IDQ (350w) 100.4 Channel 1 and 2 to run the tweeters in normal 4-ohm (90w) Channel 3 and 4 bridged 4-ohm into the 6.5" mids (320w) Can I run the 100.4 in regular and bridged mode at the same time? Does this set-up make sence?

Hey I'm gonna try and not make this a versus thread. I'm selling my profile cl1200 (shut up) and am looking for an upgrade. It's going to power 2 10" L5's (ported) so I'm basically looking for a solid 800~1kW dclass @ 1 or 4 ohm. My price range is anywhere from 200-300. Right now my current choices are an Autotek SX-900X. http://www.thezeb.com/p-Autotek-SX-900X-Mo...fier-106630.htm soundstream ega 900d http://www.cardomain.com/item/SSTEGA900D those both do 900w rms at 1ohm or.... an infinity 1210a, 854w (or something) CEA rated at 4ohm...2ohm stable (i think it does 1300 or something). anyhow, they're all relatively the same price. I need some VALID opinions here. …

Just got my system hooked up today but I have a very annoying whine or hum in the speakers. Its there with the truck running or not, but worse when it is running. I think from reading that this is a ground problem, but I have moved the amplifier ground to a few different places inside the cab of the truck, seat belt, seat mount bolt, I cant get rid of it. Can anyone help?

My 97 EB expedition has 4 gauge wire comming to and from the battery. Double that on the power. I am going to replace the ground wire on the bat with 1/0, but the power side is all so beefy I'm not really sure I need to. My deck has a volt meter built in, and I have been playing with it, and wanted to know if you guys think I may need to upgrade the electrical. I have not installed any amps yet and really just want to get a feel for if you think anything else should be upgraded. When idle I sit at about 13.8 V. I don't know how much drop I should expect, but if I open and close all 4 windows at the same time I drop a few tenths of a volt. When I turn on the lights …

i have my Viper 2500.1D on 13' of 1/0 (OFC) power wire and 2' of ground (CCA). I have a 2500W inverter that I am going to install and need to run more wires for. I have a group 49AGM directly under the truck where the amps are. I have some pure copper 2/0ga wiring that im going to use for power and ground. the power inverter and the viper both have dual 4ga inputs for both power and ground instead of single 0ga. what connectors would you recommend for the dual 4 to 2/0 connections? would it be preferred to run the current 0ga to the power inverter and then run new 2/0ga to the battery under the truck? so as im typing this im thinking: it would be best to just use a…

if I could get a brand new one for 215 shipped, is there any reason not to? I know of the SAE1200D and AQ1200D's that are 250 shipped. I have had one of these amps about 4 years ago probably, and really liked it, but are the other 2 choices way better? I know Ive heard alot of bad things about their business pracitces in years past, but just try and think of product ability when you make a choice. not going to buy my subs right now, but figured when the NINe.1 is usually way more expensive I figured Id buy it now while I can get that price.

Any one able to confirm the dimensions of the saz-3500. I know the sundown site says 660x250x54 but I heard someone say it's bigger than that. Cheers Karl

Alright guys, I'm looking to expand my knowledge on car audio and I'm wanting to look into active setups and how they work, do's and dont's, ect. I'm not trying to look lazy here and not able to do my own research but I cant seem to find some quality websites explaining this when I search it up. Anything will help, either your own knowledge or websites that you know of. Thanks -Mike

Current setup is a Pioneer GM-D8604 4 Ch amp (4x150), this amp powers a 10" Infinity Kappa 100.9W (bridged) and JBL P660c components. I also have a pair of JBL GTO938 6x9's (un-amped) in the rear deck. This is running of the OEM head unit. I blew the coil of the Kappa sub a while back so I'm looking to upgrade. What I'm wanting to do is install an Alpine Type-R 2 ohm in it's place and run it off of a dedicated mono amp. I've already purchased the Pioneer GM-D9601 amp. This pushes 1200 watts RMS at 1-ohm. And add the rear 6x9's to the Pioneer GM-8604. This amp is installed under the driver seat, so I want the second amp under the passenger seat (it fits, without the wires…

if i get a h/o alt do i have to change anything else on the car for it to handle the extra amps???

So i know hifonics isnt the best of companies, but ive heard mixed opinions about the 2008 brutus amp lineup as to whether or not it does rated power, I was wondering if anyone knows for sure what they output(specifically the 1608) or has any birth sheets/ done any bench testing. If not what do you think the bxi1608d does at 1 ohm and at 2 ohm, it claims 1600 at 1 and 1100 at 2...

I am working on a new system for my 350Z and was considering running active. I've never ran active before and have been reading around and have a decent idea of what to do, but I am stuck at what to use for processing. I have a double din sat nav puoneer hu and it doesn't have the ability to run acrive and I've noticed the MiniDSP and it's right in my price range. I've decided with the Mach 5 MLI 65's, I still need to measure for the tweeters, and for the amp I'm going to get the JL 300/4. Does this setup seem fine to run with the MiniDSP? Is it pretty complicated to set the MiniDSP through the computer? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

I recently caught a GREAT deal on one of these.. only problem is that the CD player isn't functional. That isn't an issue at all considering it's got USB & iPod inputs. However, I tried plugging a thumb drive into the USB input & it won't read it. It shows iPod when I connect it but you need the iPod integration cable to use it, so I know nothing is wrong w/the USB input. Does my flash drive need to me formatted a certain way? Do I need a certain thumb drive? Why isn't the one I've currently got working? This is the drive I'm using: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sandisk-4GB-Cruzer-USB-Flash-Drive-Aqua/16648010

My amp is going in to protect like 20-22 seconds in the song and is not even getting warm..Anyone know what that could be

I knew this day would come but haven't been preparing for it. My battery has passed away. It has been through a lot being the first battery I've had since I got into car audio. I need something new. I am running a JL JX360 2 channel for my mids and highs along with a Hifonics BRZ1200.1D for my BL 15. Its somewhere around a total of 1500-1800 wrms. (When the voltage is up, which hasn't been in a while) I have a Stinger 180 amp alternator installed as well. The dimensions I have to work with are 11"w 8"d 8"h. I was looking at an XS power D3400 or maybe a Kinetic KHC1800. Would these be enough to run as the only battery in the car?? (which is a better choice between the two?…

So i recently got a pair of DC Audio Subs..1000rms/2000 max.... well i have been told that it since they are a pair of 2ohm subs that a mono amp will not push it to the amps max.. i am looking to spend at the most 350.. I would really apppriciate the help:)

will the sundown 3000d run 1 ohm stable, and not get hot. im interested in buying it when they restock it. if i can run 2 fi bl's at 1 ohm. and if so will this be to much power.

omnifi I got it as a belated b-day present from my bro for a good price too with all the acessories :4123357f3da0f6e125a54: