Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

2 sets= 4 mids, 4 tweets, and 2 crossovers I was looking at the Alpine PDX 100.4, But i want other suggestions. BTW, the amp must be a minimum of 4x100watts. Thanks for the help! Joe

This is the guts of the radio. capacitore blew on the right side this is the small fuse for the power wire constant... this picture is the wiring there are three wire one is power constant, ground and the third wire is one speakerwire(that runs in the dash) hahah only allowed one speaker nonsense. radio back in the dash. comments... will take pictures of the current set up soon.. should have did a build log

I'm going to purchase two 12 inch RL-p soundsplinter subs and need an amp to run them. They will be going in a sealed box. So far I am considering these 3 choices: HiFonics BX 1500 D - $279.00 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=13121 Orion 1200D (refurbished) - $265.00 http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2167 Elemental Designs NINe.1 - $275 (b-stock) http://www.edesignaudio.com/nine1_overview.htm The prices are so close that they are not a factor. I have no experience with these amps and looking for a little input or opinions. If you have any other suggestionsin this price range, I'd like to hear them Thanks

Ok. So I put the zcon's and the 2500d in. Now when I set the gain using the dd1 till I can get ahold of my friend with the oscope, the voltage goes down to 12.5. I have a mechman 270, big 3 in 0 gauge, ran the pos and neg from front to rear batt in 0 gauge, installed fuse in front, fuse in rear, soldered all connections. Rear batt is a diehard platinum 31m marine agm with 205 reserve, but yet when I turn volume up to around 30 out of 35, amp goes into protect mode and volts drop to 12.5. (Radio was o scoped at 40hz and 1k hz and had no clipping evident)Even at 1500 rpm. Am I missing something or is the saz2500d drawing that much amperage? Also speaker wire was 14 gauge. A…

Alright, read thru the pinned topic for this, seems easy enough..but im doing something wrong.. im usin an old school volt meter but it has "ACV 200 and ACV 500" .. i set it to ACV 200 (AC volts)..the amp is a Sundown SAZ1500D running at 1 ohm so... voltage = sqrt (1500 * 1) voltage = 38.72 ish.. can someone verify that please... so i pop in the 50hz test tone, loud off, bass boost off..volume to 3/4 and I stick the voltmeter to the outputs of the amp.. it tells me 2.8 and up to 5.something at full gain.. something is wrong just not sure what. appreciate any help.

Does anyone know if it is a true remote gain control or just a bass boost? Also if it is a true gain control, will the actual gain on the amp supersede the remote knob? By this I mean no matter how high I crank the remote knob, it will not go past the gain setting on the amp, correct?

Hey guy's. Just doing some research and was wondering if the deka was comparable in power to the xs? I can get the deka for 225 and the xs for 290. The price difference is great but is the quality and power there aswell? Thanks Matt Cusack

If I have one battery, is a good or bad idea to run the negative cable from the amp to the battery? Did the chasis have more resistance than, let say, 14ft of 4 gauge cable? I'm asking that because I read that grounding the amplifier at the battery minimize voltage drop, don't know if that is true.

what about them....anyone with any experience? specificly....this one? lemme know...the sub is on it's way..it's needs an amp to push it!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I am redoing a car that has 2 concept cc-d2400's. I'm thinking about going with 2 cdx-20a's, are they strappable? what are the full specs, S/N, etc...? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My 97 EB expedition has 4 gauge wire comming to and from the battery. Double that on the power. I am going to replace the ground wire on the bat with 1/0, but the power side is all so beefy I'm not really sure I need to. My deck has a volt meter built in, and I have been playing with it, and wanted to know if you guys think I may need to upgrade the electrical. I have not installed any amps yet and really just want to get a feel for if you think anything else should be upgraded. When idle I sit at about 13.8 V. I don't know how much drop I should expect, but if I open and close all 4 windows at the same time I drop a few tenths of a volt. When I turn on the lights …

I currently have the Big Three (actually the Big Two) in 4 gauge. I was wondering if it was worth the money and time to buy some 1/0 and redo it. I have an AQ1200d, stock battery, stock 145amp alternator Any input in welcomed.

Hey I'm gonna try and not make this a versus thread. I'm selling my profile cl1200 (shut up) and am looking for an upgrade. It's going to power 2 10" L5's (ported) so I'm basically looking for a solid 800~1kW dclass @ 1 or 4 ohm. My price range is anywhere from 200-300. Right now my current choices are an Autotek SX-900X. http://www.thezeb.com/p-Autotek-SX-900X-Mo...fier-106630.htm soundstream ega 900d http://www.cardomain.com/item/SSTEGA900D those both do 900w rms at 1ohm or.... an infinity 1210a, 854w (or something) CEA rated at 4ohm...2ohm stable (i think it does 1300 or something). anyhow, they're all relatively the same price. I need some VALID opinions here. …

Well i sent the piece of junk db electric alternator back and went for a dc. cant wait for it to show up ill be sure to get pictures and even a video. from everything i see it should be awesome cant wait.

Looking at buying one of these,but cant find any user reviews anywhere. Does anyone run hertz amps? This thing supposedly makes 2k at 2 ohm! Seems pretty badass!

k, well i went and got a dual 30amp fuse power dist. block. i got questions that need sum answers. 1.) how do u wire up a capaciator with the dist. block? 2) and i was wondering if i need a fuse block as well? since the power dist. block has dual fuses then i thought that i wouldn't need that. 3.)how do u wire up 2 rcas from the deck to 2 amps? the deck only has one set of rcs. but i have 2 y spliters layin around. how would i hook them up? thanks.

so i got an offer ona kinetic hc2400 for 200. sounds like a good deal to me.... but i heard if you plan on running a H.O. alternator it will kill the kinetic batteries. Is this true? I wont know if i even need an alt untill i get the battery installed.

Bought an aftermarket alternator from DC power, I put it in and the top OEM braket wold fit the new one. Will the alt be ok with just the bottom screws holding it in?

Alright well earlier this year my headunit crapped out (stock ford explorer 2002 xlt) and wouldn't pull the cd in, the things that pull and eject the cd don't work. Then randomly it started working, and after getting my car repaired it stopped. So now my Bday is on sunday, and I figure I might as well get a new headunit. I'm looking for a decent, affordable headunit. Near the 150$ dollar range I guess. More or less, Idk how much to be exact and I know I can't get that good of a headunit for that price but it should be better than nothing. I'm looking for subwoofer rca output, preferably 4v preout or higher (idk, maybe 2v won't be that bad?), iPod Touch (1st gen) hookup a…

okay so i know this might be a noob question but hey im a noob lol. so i want to run 2 runs of 0 guage power to my amp, but they amp only has one input so can i take a normal distribution block and put the two power wires from the battery up front into the the usual out spots and put one run from the amplifier to the input of the block? i will also run 2 runs of ground if i can, i just want to make sure i get as much power to my amp as i can even know i know its over kill. hopefully i can upload this right but here is a picture to help explain what i mean.

breaks my heart

yup so basically this is why i own 5 of them total now and for being under 150 dollars u cannot beat it

I will be starting my build log as soon as I get a job, either this month (hopefully) or next month (at the latest) so I want to do everything right any buy the book. I drive a 2003 Saturn Ion with stock alternator for now(depending if I run my sub amp at 1 ohm or 2 ohms) and I have done the Big 2 (Grounds - Engine Block to Frame / 1run and Battery to Frame / 2runs) in Kicker HyperFlex 1/0 AWG. I will be using a Kenwood KDC-X492 (will be upgrading after the build is complete) for head unit with a Epic Center 160 for voltage and bass in older recordings since I listen to a lot of old school music. The subs have not been decided on and the interior speakers have not been de…

if I could get a brand new one for 215 shipped, is there any reason not to? I know of the SAE1200D and AQ1200D's that are 250 shipped. I have had one of these amps about 4 years ago probably, and really liked it, but are the other 2 choices way better? I know Ive heard alot of bad things about their business pracitces in years past, but just try and think of product ability when you make a choice. not going to buy my subs right now, but figured when the NINe.1 is usually way more expensive I figured Id buy it now while I can get that price.

Any recommendations on a trunk mount EQ to get my feet wet with??? I don't need 30 bands; maybe, something with 10 bands to play with. Something with a small footprint...