Technical Info & How To's

first thing this system is going in a 2014 Jeep rand cherokee. I already have some pieces and Iam looking for some addition recommendations. I already have the box which was ordered from high output enclosures tuned to 33hz birch box, with kerf port just received my sub 18” XCON, the amp I will be using is a Crescendo symphony 1500.1. I plan on upgrading to a nice set of components which I will be using the crescendo 800.4. need some component recommendations. I plan on using the RF 360.3 for my processor I want to keep the Uconnect system in my jeep. My biggest concern at this point in time is Electrical advice... Batteries? wiring? Will I need a second Batt for the bac…

Hey guys, I'm currently starting my (2) 12" Ethos build and I was planning on firing both the subs and the port into the cabin of my 2013 Toyota Camry. So far, I'm framing out what I can in the smaller oval shape opening behind the seats that Toyota decided needed the be there. It's about 36" wide, 15" tall, and about 8" deep. I'm basically laying 2x4's down until I get to the point where I can have a flat surface in my trunk for my enclosure to bolt up to. This oval area will be dead space from the inside of my car, so I may do some fiberglassing and "pretty" that area up with LED's, or something of that nature. Now, as this is an oval, and 2x4's are straight, I wi…

How do i properly wire my 4 ohm subs to 1 ohm? when I've done it in the past with my audiobahn flame q's my fosgate hx2's and my cvr 12's you would always get that electrical burning smell and subs would get really really hot in the center of the top please help me cuz i really dnt want the same problem with my new soundquebd hds3 12's i bought a 1200.1 d class Zeus amp so i won't be over powering them cuz subs r 1200 rms so i want to wire them at 1ohm so i get the 1200watts and b slamming greatly appreciate all the input if u can please help me I've watched the how to videos on YouTube but still got that funky smell please help

I've never built a box and need help with a step by step process or blueprint on building a box wanting it 5.2 net cubic ft and tuned for them low lows I've gotta Chevy blazer 4 door to put it in and wanting subs to face up towards roof and port to face the back hatch. I've got two SoundQuebd HDS3 12's I'm putting in it. gunna b for everyday and mild comp bas. powering them with a 1200.1 super d class Zeus mono amp with big 3 upgrade and 0 gauge ran. please someone help me

I've never built a box before and i dnt want to pay close to $400 to have one made I've got a Chevy blazer 4 door and i just bought two SoundQuebd hds3 12's and I'm needing help to get the perfect 5.2 net cubic ft box built I'm going for the low low bass so tuned to 32-30hz and want subs to face the roof and port facing the back hatch door needing help with blueprints or step by step cuts and where the pieces go. can anyone please help me? Im powering them with a 1200.1 super d class mono Zeus amp with the big three upgrade and 0 gauge wires ran

So it seems like people don't know how to post pictures on here.. So here is a little tutorial. First, go to www.imgur.com Click the Cloud arrow at the very top left hand corner. Then click the "upload" button and an image from your computer. You can upload multiple images at one time. Wait for the image to finish uploading, then select the IMG extension and post into the thread, enjoy.

Question on wiring and fusing. I'm going to get 2/0 scha cable, from my 320a alt to my batteries I I fuse 2 times on one run right? And you add up the fuses on the run, for example if I had to use lets say 500a on the run I'd do 2 250s on the run, one by the alt and other by the battery? Just trying to be safe and get it all right

Since we are all very familiar with this phrase, I though that I, as well as anyone who is interested, to collectively share any real knowledge, related to car audio, into this thread. Preferably information that has been tested and proven and that has data to back it up. Such as formulas, graphs, and things of the like. If no URL is available, then go ahead and copy the material word for word, with the topic in bold letters before your response. I'm in hopes we could use this thread as one big knowledge base.

So i'm putting the order into Soundqubed in about a week for a 3500. I want to do everything I can to keep it in good condition. I have seen people mount amps using rubber bushings,washers and spacers. and I have seen plenty of "straight to wood,seatback" amp mounting. I definitely want to put it on bushings of some sort or build an amp rack, maybe a combination of the two. I was also wondering about separating the amps mounting postion from the subs,box and trunk area to try and reduce hard vibrations as much as I can. Is this necessary? How do I mount the amp with rubber "feet" so to speak? and where do I get them? Should i separate the subs from the amp? Just for…

http://www.youtube.com/caraudiofabrication'> Something I have always enjoyed integrating into builds or seeing used is back lit plexiglass. You can use it to light up a sponsors logo, or your own, or just to simply highlight an area of your build. In this video tutorial I show you Step by Step how you can use plexiglass and other techniques to create an awesome panel. The possibilities are endless, use it on an amp rack, use it on a sub box, use it on a console whatever! And yes, there are other ways this can be done, I just have found this way to work quite effectively! Lets learn how to make this: http://www.youtube.com/caraudiofabrication'> Enjoy, and…

OK- I have read more than a few times on here about 'loading' a sub or port off of objects. Can someone offer me a laymans explanation of how this affect the sound/output? Tried to do a search with no luck.

First off, where to buy lead wires, from terminal to coil, and second, what to seal it to the cone with. And oh yeah, how much slack should I leave? I was going to try to match the working leads.

In this tutorial write up we will be covering how to create some awesome door panel pods that will add a custom look to your install, allow you to integrate multiple speakers into a door panel, and allow you to control the mounting position of the speakers. Note that while these are in fact door “pods” that are not actually permanently bonded are made as part of the door panel itself, there are many techniques within that could be used if you were in fact planning on creating door “panels” from scratch. Let’s begin! Step 1: Woodwork and Templates: In order to have a good foundation for our door pods we want to make awesome speaker rings. The video above covers m…

Tech Flex is something that I have always loved using in my installs. It not only helps to protect the wire I find that it has a number of other uses as follows: Color Code Wire Bundle Similar Wires Link the Wire to the theme of your iinstall Refresh otherwise "bad" looking wire In this thread I would like to share my process for covering a wire in techflex as well as some of the techniques I have learned for working with it. In this example I am going to be bundling two RCA cables together to make a 4 channel run that is tied together at one end and seperate at the other. It looks like this when complete: Lets begin: To start I prepare my wire and tech f…

ok so my buddy has a mazda6 with the bose system. he wanted me to help him out with his install. he found a diy for the car. basically what we did was take the signal from the factory subwoofer in the rear spare tire well and hooked that up to some rca's for the signal. the factory plug had 4 wires, 2 for signal, 1 for power (remote) and 1 for ground. i chopped the rca cables like the diy said and i soldered the wires behind the shielding to the designated wires. when we hooked up the rcas to the amp it worked and we were stoked, but when he turned the car on, there was a slight humming in the subs. i turned up the lpf and it was playing higher frequencies too. whenever…

So, I've noticed recently that just about every wire company has bot OFC and CCA wire available, with OFC being the higher end line. My question is, In a car audio environment, where my power wire run will be no greater than 17 ft, is the difference in conductivity enough to make a noticeable (to me as an average consumer) difference? If not overdrawing or improperly fused? As an example: 4 awg run 60 amp fuse less than 12" from battery to amplifier that has a max current draw of 60 amps with a total length of the run being 12 ft? Amp ground at 18" on 4awg as well? Or say doing big 3 upgrade with 1/0 wire running above mentioned equipment/main power run to the ba…

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Not sure if this was posted yet, but I thought I might put together a little guide on how to determine where a song peaks. Go to http://audacity.sourceforge.net/ and download for your applicable OS. Install it and everything open it up... Drag and drop your song from Itunes, etc. You should end up with something like this.. Select a portion of the song you want to anylize or you can do CTRL+A to select the entire song. Go to Analyze then to plot spectrum, you may get an error "Too much audio was selected. Only the first XXX.X seconds of audio will be analyzed. That's fine just click, OK. This window will then pop up, on the lower left of your screen change t…

im trying to achieve 2 things. for the port, where it ends (inside) i'd like to know what size router bit to use when i make a pass from each size to make it a perfect half circle. also, where the port turns 90* what size bit should i use to get a full turn on 1 piece of wood. im going to start my box build without my gf's dads tools this time. im going to buy a router and the jasper jig and the 2 (or 3) bits i will need

How do I mobile phone post pics to the forum?

I have an old school 10" Orion Cobalt subwoofer that has a perfect coil, but needs a new surround , dustcap and spider. Does anyone know where I can buy these kind of parts individually for relatively cheap? MAT Electronics has everything I need for VERY cheap, but I think you have to have a minimum order of $30 before shipping costs, which sucks considering the parts I need are less than 5$ for everything.. I don't need anything extreme as far as parts are concerned.. Just a simple spider that I can attach to a 2" coil and a foam or rubber surround to make this sub playable again. More for a fun little project and to have a speaker to play with than anything which is why…

Hey guys, so after posting my orginal video a few months ago about how to design a sub box using Google (Now "Trimble") Sketchup questions started rolling in about some of the more "advanced" features. Which this video to check it out!

Im wanting to build a hybrid woofer but have never tried this before. i have two 3 bolt Memphis MOJO motors and i want to know if i can recone them with either some 15" SSA or Sundown recone parts and run on an SAZ-3500. What do i need to know about these motors before to know what parts i can use and what parts should i use? I know the motors have 2 magnet slugs that are iirc 1" x 8.5" and the oem voice coil is a 4 layer 3" coil. can or should i use an 8 layer coil and can i use the same basket as the soft parts im using use and redrill it to fit the three bolt style?

Hey guys, often times in fiberglass installs you will have multiple speaker rings that require being mounted at the exact same angle in order to maintain perfect symmetry. You do not want to spend hours on a piece that in the end has angles that are not the same. How can you insure that your speaker angles are perfect without measuring a million different angle and points? Here is my quick tip of the week to show you how:

Saw some people unsure of how to do this in the Hop figured it'd be really quick to make a how to on this. It's very simple to do but sometimes pictures make all the difference...Since I've cleared my cache/cookies I haven't received an error from this site Step 1: Goto chrome options - Select History Step 2: Select "Clear All Browsing Data" Step 3: Check Empty the Cache Check Delete Cookies Select Clear Browsing data and you're done.