General Fi

so im thinking about getting a ssd 12 or 15 for christmas so i still got a few mouths to choose but my question is how much of a difference would i hear between a ssd 12 or 15 compared to my alpine type r 10 that i have right now. the amp i have now is a alpine mrp-m500 and idk what amp i would upgrade to. also would i need any upgrades to my electrical its stock right now? my car is a 1997 honda accord.

EDIT: I just read about the shipping information thread thats pinned. Sorry for the waste of thread space :/ Thread closed.

I was wondering what does the "FI" in FI audio stand for? Thanks for any answers.

ok guys i bought 2 18'' btl dual 2 ohm subs from a guy that owns a shop near where i'm from, and i was told they were btl's fully loaded built back in 2007-2008 but i am not familiar with the magnets. ii was thinking somebody might know if they were older btl double stack motors? i have emailed fi but i have no number to contact them at. my main concern is what power i should be running to them if there not btl's i will include both links for the pics. thanks http://img822.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=imag0120d.jpg http://img337.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=imag0130o.jpg

Hey guys i have a 05 Rx8 and im ready to put a system in it. The rx8 has probably the smallest trunk in the world haha. i was wondering if i can put the FI BL 12 ported in a 1.5^3 ported box. or should i just get a 1 12 Fi Q sealed in a 1.5^3. i was also looking at the new Re Se-x, will 2 12 se-x be louder then the 1 12 Fi Q? thanks you.

I went on a trip today and one of my subs stopped working. I noticed that one of the coils was no longer working. The coils were series so I just ran the one sub and eventually one of its coils stopped working also. I tested the coils with an ohm meter and each sub has a coil that reads open. Am I right that something like this is not covered under warranty? I am not really sure why the coil opened up since I was probably giving the subs no more than 1500 watts between the two. I also have a voltage meter in my car and noticed that my voltages stayed around 14 volts when the first one blew while on the highway. These subs are dual 1 ohm coils and I am powering them…

Curious as to what would get louder. Figure the 2 SSD's would get louder but I have always wanted a BTL. I have tons of space in my man van to use, if I remember, roughly 40 ish cubes for a box. Subs would be powered off a Crescendo 3k. My current electrical system is a stock 90 amp alt, which will be replaced with a 270 amp alt. Have a kinetik HC1400 for the front and a HC2400 for the back, probably pick up another HC2400. So, roughly with that information, and lets say that the BTL and the SSD's are in boxes tuned to 32ish hz, in there ideal space how much louder would the 2 15"s be? Thanks, Luke.

im about to get a 18" btl on a hifonics brz2400 but i was thinking about getting 2 15" btls on a hifonics collusus 3200rms. Which would be louder?

Hey sup fi, i just grabbed a re xxx 04/05 model and it was recently reconed i was trying to find out the specs/what was put in it since i am interested in getting another one reconed. Apparently it has integrated leads,stiffer spider, fullsized dustcap, and an original xxx vc. I was trying to figure out if that is just the standard recone with the leads option and spider option or if i need to ask for something imparticular. The guy who i got it from said it was done by scott at fi and he should remember him by name since he went to fi and dealt with scott while there i was hopin he was right but either way the guys name was treston rego

good set up? im not ready for a ho alt or second battery

Just had my system installed yesterday the 26th. I finished my custom box, carpeted and everything. Its 2.3cuft tuned to 33hz and its ported. I have a stinger amp kit, all 0 gauge. I also have a 250amp fuse. My system includes one 12in fi bl fully loaded, and a sundown sae1200d, which is capable of producing 1500 watts rms at 1ohm. This is my first system. OHH and i also purchased a line driver from jl that was like 200 bucks. Anyway my system HITS HARDDD Aas HELLLL. It freaken vibrates the cars around me. I annoy people alott on the street. People think i have 2 18's in the trunk of a 2010 altima lmaooo that wouldent even fit. What the hell i dident no my system would be…

Is it ok if i face the subwoofer and port up instead on forward or backward in my trunk. 2010 altima.. would it make a difference?

Been waiting for 2 and half weeks

I've seen a few different ways to wire a DVC sub in parallel. but which way is right? Here are a few diagrams that I have found online: Everything Car Audio: Single DVC Subwoofer wiring Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, One 2 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Speaker Are either of these ways right or wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi, I was very interested in having Fi rebuild my tc-3000 I dont know what re-cone kits you all have available or any specs on them. I would much rather deal over the phone if possible. It is a tc-3hp motor with the quick swap basket. It is 15" and I would like it to remain 15" the box I am using is 2.94 cubic feet tuned to 34 hz with 56 square inches of port. I would like the re-cone to be able to handle around 1500 watts at 1 ohm. What do you all have available, what are the prices, and would I have to send it in to you? Would I use my existing basket or would that need to be replaced?

I will have a stock car (130a alt., stock battery, big 3 done) and plan to run 1 15" SSD w/ BP power off a SAZ-1500D. Question is, do I buy the dual 1 ohm sub wired at 2 ohms, or get the dual 2 ohm sub wired at 1ohm? Sundown.com rates the 1500d @800rms at 2ohms... Which would be better? Wiring @ 2ohms would have less voltage drop correct? But wouldn't the amp be working harder ie. the gain would have to be much higher when running @ 2ohms? If I ran it @ 1ohm I could keep the gain really low so I'm thinking that this would be better for the amp. Any Thoughts?

i ordered a fi btl and it was suppose to arrive yesterday. I was at work and wen i got home there was no note on my door so i can pick it up. Nobody was at home to sign for it so wat should i do? Do i need to contact UPS?

This is out of pure curiosity. I just want to know what all the parts into these woofers are made of and i looked of on the site and found some things but im just seeing if theres any other specific details. I just want to know more about the internals than i do about the outside appearance. Simple question i suppose.

Im new to car audio, is fi any good? or is it just some stuff some wv / va boys use?

Wondering when you guys expect the BTL backorder to be filled and shipped? Maybe its already done I don't know ha just seeing what the overheads looking like. Thanks

I had been searching the market and looking for a non-fanboy sub that was loud (I mean LOUD) but could fit in with an SQ setup and stumbled across a forum where I was first introduced to Fi. After some deliberation I made the plunge with a fully loaded Fi BL 12 and I could NOT be happier! Customer service via email is on point. Best of all its made in the USA (even by today's standards that doesn't mean much, but if at least one person in the USA put the sticker on it that said "made in USA" thats at least 1 job still in our country ) I digress... this SUB F'n ROCKS! PUT IT IN THE RIGHT ENCLOSURE!

Got BL 15 and looking for a box for it for the past month any suggestions??

I emailed Scott@Fi for the box dimensions. Is it true that if i use those dimensions, its a prefab box? Someone told me. If i use FI's box dimensions, is that like buying a box right off the shelf?

Finally got back my 15" BL from Fi When i bought it from Joseph K., upon delivery, USPS dropped it and broke it. Soo, using the insurance money i reconed it to a 15" from a 10" Before After First impression= Damn that's huge! Thanks for everything FI, another satisfied customer.

I was curious about the universal option offered for the BTLs.I understand that it is so you can change between dual 1 and 2 ohm coils, but what are the drawbacks?I noticed it says that if you don't get the universal option that the motor will be optimized for the ohm load configuration you order.So does that mean that a universal BTL won't ever perform quite as up to par as one that isn't universal?Just curious, because I figured if their were no drawbacks then all of the subs would have them.Thanks man for any feedback.I really appreciate it.