General Fi

I really want to buy a pair of ssd 18's and run them sealed, but everyone on this site say no. I plugged the T/S specs into Win ISD and it seems to be OK sealed in that sense. Qts is very high at 1.22 in 4 cubic feet. Here's what I have text-wise: 25.00 -9.42 -9.42 30.00 -5.73 -5.73 35.00 -2.66 -2.66 40.00 -0.28 -0.28 45.00 1.32 1.32 50.00 2.18 2.18 55.00 2.50 2.50 60.00…

ok..... so i have 2 15" Fi BTLs in a 2006 maxima.....AB 500.1 for power....my electrical system has a 200A Alt, 2 2400's and a 1400 kinetik under the hood... i recently put in an alpine 9887 and since then my output went WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYy down. i readjusted the gains just now with a voltmeter, around 70V.....and it barely hits, ive got the setting on the HU MX 3...sub level 15 eq on the low bands +6 and it barely hits.... i checked the ohms with the DMM by turning off car and putting it on the speaker wire to amp....it showed .8-1....... really, my old setup with 2 12" mags + sundown 1500 hit harder then this. its like playing stock subs......any ideas what is wrong here?…

like the title states, looking for a Fi ssd motor (from the newer ssd's) if anyone has one laying around or a blown ssd or a fully functional ssd if the price is right. Somebody help me out! thanks guys.

If i place an order tommorow morning, whats the expected time for fi to put together and ship 2 12" BL's? and do they have a phone number? i'd really like to talk w/ someone

hey guys, if you checked out my latest vid i posted a few days ago then you will know that people have been saying it could be hitting harder, but im confused here because on some songs the amp clipping light comes on so it would be sweet if people with more knowledge could help me out so if you guys could show me what the gains should be set to, to have the loudest possible beat that would be much appreciated here is the vid here are my current amp and H/U settings (the red dot next to each setting is where the gain is set to) Box = slot ported tuned to 32hz Amp = AQ2200d Sub = 18" BTL D2 Head unit settings Sub lvl = 13 (max 15) Bass lvl = 0 Tuned at 30 volume with 50…

Put my order in around 12:45am (eastern) Saturday morning. can't wait to get it in. look for my build log coming up as soon as i receiver the woofer and router my flushed hole for the woofer. the box is already mostly built and the rest of my setup is nearing completion. i just need a 6ch amp and a $150 run to parts express

Okay here is the setup. 10 inch SSD in a 1.7ft^3 enclosure w/ 6" Aero ~26" Effective The goal is to peak around 48 - 52hz. I have a 20.1 for power (D2 SSD). Vehicle is a 1998 Explorer TWO QUESTIONS 1 - Do you think it will be effective? Or a GOOD place to start? 2 - Do you think it will take the 20.1 for burps?

I just went to order my subs and last time i knew shipping was included in the price and as i went to check out my price went from $1,216 to $1300+. now that just makes me want to spend my money else where because i had 1,250$ to spend not 1,300+

quick ? This is the first sub that I'm planing to purchase that has the option Dual 1 or Dual 2. You know most sub are Dual 2 and Dual 4 . Im planing on getting a BTL 12, only one and wire it down to 1 ohm. I usually get Dual 2 , So do I still choose Dual 2? and How do you wire a single Dual 1? Thanks

Here is a link to my box design. Have only ran a Lanzar 1200vibe on it so far as I am not convinced of tuning. Seems to get least cone motion at 33 hz when playing sine waves, so should be close. A bit inconclusive though. Actually the speaker is great, I am not impressed with the vehicle itself for bass. Does not sound as loud as my focus did with a lot less sub, but I know the focus probably loads bass a lot better. Box is 57w, 16.25 deep, and 20 high (6.5cf). The port is 14.75x7.5 and 28.75 long(area 110.6), firing up behind driver. The sub is facing forward on other side. This is supposed to be tuned to 35hz. link to box design I will be switching to my Lanza…

I have a dilemma of which set-up to go with. I already have all the stuff, except batteries and maybe a high output alternator if I was to need one. I need the extra space in my trunk, 96 honda accord coupe, for battery/batteries/mid-range amp, and space for me to get to my spare tire. So I can only use about half the space for the box. I bought the two 12" SSD subs because it was a good deal but then right after I bought them, I also found a good deal on two 10" SSD subs. But here it is: Two 12" SSD subs, bp option, copper coils, D2, with an IA20.1 amp at .5 ohm in a minimal recommended box of about 3.5cu ft. tuned to 34hz. I would probably get a deka 9a31 and maybe a hi…

Dose Fi still make the 08 models or do they only make the 09 models now. Cause i want to get another 15 and i have a 08 model that means i would have to sell the one i have and buy two 09 models. I mean it wouldn't be a bad thing but i just don't want to deal with the hassle of trying to find someone that will buy my sub. Thanks, Kasey

So, which of the two would you do and why? About how much SPL will the 4 Q's produce. I am open to just about anything, and really do listen to EVERYTHING. I ALSO FORGOT TO ADD ONE MORE CHOICE, BUT OH WELL. 4 Q'S PORTED.

So I ordered some woofers from this outfit. In big red blinking letters they announce "Build Time 5-7 Days." That's cool. Tack on another 4 for shipping, so we're looking at two weeks. No biggie. I put my order in, a Friday night no less. It's not till Monday that my payment is accepted, so two weeks from Monday. From what I here I'm suppose to get an e-mail from from these guys when my stuff ready to go. I'm a patient guy. It's been a week, I figure I'll get an e-mail today or tomorrow. Today, I come home from work and bam! Typical Fi Audio, no notice, just products in your hands. Wondering what they are? 18" IB3.......For my car ......Flame Suit On They'll be replaci…

i plan on getting a 15" bl within the next two months. but anyways any of you guys have any suggestions for good amps for a 15" bl. ive seen alot of guys talking on here about sundown but i dont really know much about them or any other amps for that matter. but if you have any suggestions or information that would be great. thanks

I will have a stock car (130a alt., stock battery, big 3 done) and plan to run 1 15" SSD w/ BP power off a SAZ-1500D. Question is, do I buy the dual 1 ohm sub wired at 2 ohms, or get the dual 2 ohm sub wired at 1ohm? Sundown.com rates the 1500d @800rms at 2ohms... Which would be better? Wiring @ 2ohms would have less voltage drop correct? But wouldn't the amp be working harder ie. the gain would have to be much higher when running @ 2ohms? If I ran it @ 1ohm I could keep the gain really low so I'm thinking that this would be better for the amp. Any Thoughts?

Is there any possible chance that I could get a re-cone (and basket) for a 3" Aurasound NRT motor? Internal diameter is 3.185" External diameter is 3.254" Depth is 2.380" Bolt pattern is 6 x 4.912" on center Back Face

Can fi recone an atomic apx?

I have a 07 silverado crew cab and Im going to go with 1 12" downfire ported box. How do I know the size of the port Ill need? Also the amp I just bought is an sundown 1200d V2 Should I get a SSD with all the options or a BL with no options? Money is an issue, so if I will be fine with the SSD please let me know, keep in mind I would get all upgrades with the SSD

So i got a FI BTL 12, AQ2200D amp, 0 guage kicker wire. Optima Red top under the hood & an extra " dumptruck battery" ( if you will) in the back. JVC KDR300 head unit. & I HAVE NOT done the big 3 yet. anyone got nay advice so i can get the full 2200 watts out of the amp without clipping the sub due to voltage drop?

I was originally looking at getting a SSD 18, but it seems like a lot of people have SSD 12s instead of the 18s. Is the 12 better or something ? I would assume that the 18 would get louder, and that is what im going for. Im not really entirely sound quality. I was also wondering if anyone had any good box specifications for a SSD 18.

I have 2 SSD 12"D2s, copper coils, wired in series for an 8 ohm load. I am using them in my house and have them wired as such to use with my Carver PM900 amp. The Carver amp is rated at 900 watts rms bridged and while bridged will not handle less than 8 ohms, hence the series wiring for the SSDs. THIS SETUP SOUNDS FANTASTIC, loud, clean, very tight. The Carver has a power limiting switch which I have enabled that prevents the amp from going into clipping so I am not concerned with that. The subs are in a sealed box with a partition between the drivers at about 1.5 cubes each. My question is with the subs/coils wired as such does that increase the power handling beyond the…

I now have a re se 12" running off of a hifonics amp that is putting 900rms at 2 ohms to the sub, in a 2 cubic foot enclosure ported at 32hz. would it be a sufficient upgrade to get a Fi Q 12", and put it in the same box with the same amp? i would run the amp at 1 ohm. it's 1 ohm stable at 1200rms. and both subs are within the specifications of the box. ups and downs of this upgrade? very noticable difference because of xmax? (RE=18mm, Q=27mm)

Planning on ordering my btl this weekend..should i add everything to it for daily..or just cooling? with 2500 watts could i tell the difference in a loaded and not loaded btl?

I am new to the car audio scene, and I would like to get the best bang for my buck, but I also want to "go big". I Have never seen an 18" subwoofer box before let alone an 18" subwoofer irl. I know they are pretty big, I want to know the standard ported box recommendations for an SSD 18, and if that box will fit in my 1990 jeep YJ with the back seats out. Help from you experienced set of guys would be very greatly appreciated!