Fi Technical

Video format of our options and what they are and do.

Watch the video...explains everything in great detail.

All of the links below will link you directly to our box cut sheet page. Keep in mind these are general boxes for daily driving scenarios. If you are shooting for maximum SPL you are on your own. That only comes from trials and testing. X series cut sheets! SSD series cut sheets! Q series cut sheets! BL series cut sheets! BTL series cut sheets!

New Q Options for 2010! Cooling: The 2010 Q now features a solid pole piece that allows the addition of the Helicool cooling system that will allow an additional 200-500 watts of power handling depending upon install and scenario. Bottom line this option increases thermal power handling capacity over a “Stock” Q. P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. Please note if you select “Cooling” this option is included in the cooling package. High QTS: This option is for users who intend on using the new Q series woofers…

The BTL line is our flagship woofer. Its whole design is based on and focused on being able to throw tons of power to something in a Bass Race or �Street Jam� situation. Options Available are as follows: P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. We recommend at the bare minimum to get this option if you choose this series of woofers. Cooling: Self explanatory, the cooling channels are machined into the inside of the sub to help cool the coil FAR better. But there are some things that you sacrifice. There is less me…

SSD Series: Available options and what they do: Flatwound coil (+$20) – The flatwire coil option simply helps the power handling of the sub. The coil has more surface area to dissipate heat and will take more power then the regular round wire coil that comes in the ‘stock’ version of the sub. This option will also make the sub tend to be more prone to ‘peaking’ for a budget daily driving sub where you don’t have to use a ton of power to get maximum output and sacrifice sound quality a little bit. Copper coil (now standard) – The copper coil is a heavier coil and adds mass to the moving assembly. In comparison to the stock coil, or the flatwound coil, this has the smoothe…

BL Series: Available options and what they do: The BL line is pretty much a lower power alternative to a BTL or a higher power alternative to the Q series of woofers. This is more of a street jamming type woofer that “fills the gap” if you will between these two series of subs. Keep in mind this is what we recommend, this is NOT what you have to do. P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. We recommend at the bare minimum to get this option if you choose this series of woofers. Hyper Pole: This is an extended vers…

First post here at SSA. Looking for some help, I need to build an enclosure for my new sub and am looking for some help on a design. I can give up 34.5w X 20d X 15.5 OD max. I'm looking to get tuned to 32hz @ 2.5 cubes. I am going to be starting this build in the morning any help is greatly appreciated. I can't wait to hear this thing come to life. Just looking to get some help so I can visualize what I'm building. I will mess around with some numbers on Torres and try to post them up. It will be going in a Toyota Corolla and running off a crescendo s1500.1 so 1500w. Mostly hip hop music is what I listen to. Also, I work out of my car and have to use my trunk …

Hey y'all I was look at the sp4 15s n I want to do a trunk wall with 2 of them I have a 2006 Impala I wanted to know if I have a enough airspace

I've been thinking lately, and have recently become curious if I could fi two Fi Sp4 15's in my trunk of my Cruze. I already have 1 in there, but my question would be if I could should I make it a sealed box or take my rear deck speakers out and have areo ports going through there? Just thoughts, or even do a port in the middle. The max deminsions are 17" height 35" wide and 25 or 27" depth not 100% sure. Just would like some thoughts on this. I love my sp4 and if this car wasn't so new I'd have a wall of four of them by now lol..but if I am missing anything for you guys to help me out let me know and I'll make it presentable. Thank you everyone!

I have been looking alot into the FI Subs and finally going to decide to buy my first FI Sub. I decided to go with the SP4 15. My first question is I need help with ideas/suggestions of my box. Now here's what I'm dealing with: 04 Cavalier Trunk Build sealed w/ sub and port forward. 2 XS D3100 in rear Taramps HD 6500 (Will keep gain down, want to do roughly 4k Watts to sub or suggestion?) Stock Alt (Don't plan to upgrade) Daily Driver, not SPL or competeting, just Pleasure to be LOUD I play All types of music from Decaf Slowed to Christian to Rock. I want to play to the mid 20s and up to the mid 50s decent, but of course tuning area gets best, but still some output 4…

Just was wondering, how much rms do you guys think a new FIBL 15 daily with no upgrades could take?

Alright, I'm sure you've read it before and probably been through it; someone bought a setup and loved it but is no longer enough for them. That is also me at the moment and that is what this is about. What I have: 2010 Chevy Malibu 2 12" fully loaded Fi Q 12s in a sealed enclosure approx. 3 c.f. (built for sealed because of lack of trunk space for ported box) no upgraded alternator (reason: not easily accessible and no one pimps these malibus, so they don't make those componenets and when they do, they're expensive) 2400 Kinetik battery in trunk bigger battery upfront (duralast platinum/gold whichever they said was better, lol) Hifonics Brutus BRZ-2400 0 gauge and big …

I just designed my box and came and up with 12.37 sq inches of port per cube is that a little low? What does more sq inches of port per cube do? I also came up with about 4.03 cubes per sub before displacment I want to do a little larger what does everyone I think? My dimensions I used are 23width x 34height x 49 length. they will be in an 05 f150 with two kicker zx1500. 1 amps powering them for now will upgrade power. I know they give generall recomendations of 3-5 cubes per sub and 12-16 sq inches of port per cube. What is everyone else running? and what should I tune to? I did 27 hz my amps lowest is 25 hz and the way I understood what fi said was 2 above your amps lo…

A good friend of mine just recently traded his 2 12s for a Btl n2 15 and is now looking to build a box. Being the guy he is, he likes the lows. This sub may not be the most applicable for his needs but he's hoping for the best. He likes loud, and he likes low. We were both thinking about a box that is roughly around 4 cu ft using 3/4 mdf. We were also thinking on possibly doing an aero port(s) design. Although a slot port is still an option. If it helps to know, the box will be going into a 1991 Jeep Cherokee. Also it will powered by a Hifonixs Brutus brx2400. He and I would very much appreciate if anyone has any designs for this type of application and or any re…

I am 19 I have 2 sp4's on the way. I have 2 ampere 3800's. Everything going in a 98 dodge ram 1500 ext cab. I'm wanting at least 154-56db to the ear. Would 2 in a 4th order do the job or would 3 be better? I'm not trying to get 4 because I want to save money.

Guys I am looking to build my first 4th order enclosure. I have always ran my subs in ported boxes but since I have 6 SP4's now I want to maximize them. Any of you guys out there running the SP4 15's in a 4th order and if so what type of numbers did you use as far as sealed/ported, cubes net and port area? I have max dimensions of 46W x 60D x 32H....Its in a Infiniti QX56 SUV on 2 Crossfire XS-8k's for power. I am doing mid 50's right now using 4 of the SP4's but the mid 50's I am doing are between 27hz and 33hz.

I'm sure it's probably not a big deal but my my dad had accidentally barley scratched the surface of the surround of my sub and decided to put a bead of epoxy to cover it and I was kinda upset .. And also while removing my sub from the box my right hand had slipped and accidentally hit the dust cap .. Nothing was damaged because of the hard cap but will these effect my sub and should I worry about it or is it not a relaly big deal?

I'm sure it's probably not a big deal but my my dad had accidentally barley scratched the surface of the surround of my sub and decided to put a bead of epoxy to cover it and I was kinda upset .. And also while removing my sub from the box my right hand had slipped and accidentally hit the dust cap .. Nothing was damaged because of the hard cap but will these effect my sub and should I worry about it or is it not a relaly big deal?

Ordered an SP4 15. I'm designing my box and would like some opinions on lower tuning, 25-28ish hertz.I'll be running a crescendo bc3500. I know the "norm" is to have port tunng a bit higher, and my current sub is tuned to 32 (SSD 15) I was hoping to get some thoughts

Hey guys new to this forum and just looking for some info. I have a BL 15 on a SQ2200 sealed off in my car. The res fq of my car is 37hz and im looking to increase my spl #'s. What is the recommend port area and port area per foot? I was thinking about using 3 4" PVC ports. Does anybody recommend something else?

Anyone have a cut sheet, layout, anything? Daily driver/demo. Musical setup.

hey all, i am looking to build a 4th order wall setup in my 88 suburban with 4 BTL UFO pie slug 18s, they will have xmax coils and rig is dedicated SPL/demo. i would really love to find out what sealed size i need to base my wall off. since i want the bandwidth i am thinking 2:1 ratio. i have a calculated 100cf3 to work with so space is a plenty.. (50.25w x38t x91l) subs will be inverted (motor showing) all on the back wall, loading wall port will be drivers side. untill i find a sealed cf size per sub i really cant do a thing... ready to start buying lumber and resin

First off. I am Unimpressed with FI's Silence. Unfortunately Scott and Nick have pretty much decided they are going to Ignore my Emails concerning taking them (Scott) up on the offer to replace the sub of find a magnet cover to hide the huge chunk missing out of the Ferrite. 2 weeks worth or emails have never been replied to so I have decided to cut my Losses and install the Subwoofer in the Oak Ply box I built. I waited and waited but with the weather turning cooler I wanted to get it in and running. On a Side note, a few Woofer builders have offered to repair the woofer at a reduced cost to help me out. So that was nice of them. I may take one of them up …