Fi Technical

Can someone tell me why about 1/4 of the spider would be torn and a lil crispy and the rest be fine? the coil looks fine too btw...powered by a KX1200.1 in a 2.6 internal sealed enclosure...it smells AND feels as if it were on fire...the gains were fine and everything, i wasnt even playing full tilt when all the sudden...silence, no pop or any sound, just no bass and the smell

This is what i am going to do: 2002 Impala 12" Fi Q dual 2ohm w/o bp option Kicker ZX750.1 2.5 cf^3 at 32hz ported box tubeafter displacement Kinetic battery under the hood Cap Big 3 upgrade **NO ALT UPGRADE** Is all this fine & should anything be changed? Better amp for a cheaper price? Any other suggestions or comments?

i already got the amp, would 1 saz1500d be enough for 2 BL 18s until i can sell the 1500d to get a 3000d?

Guys I am looking to build my first 4th order enclosure. I have always ran my subs in ported boxes but since I have 6 SP4's now I want to maximize them. Any of you guys out there running the SP4 15's in a 4th order and if so what type of numbers did you use as far as sealed/ported, cubes net and port area? I have max dimensions of 46W x 60D x 32H....Its in a Infiniti QX56 SUV on 2 Crossfire XS-8k's for power. I am doing mid 50's right now using 4 of the SP4's but the mid 50's I am doing are between 27hz and 33hz.

i am getting a 15" Fi Audio SSD15 sub and i am wondering what amp i should get. i dont know if i should get one with 800 rms or 1000 rms. also, what are the best specs for this sub? Also, will i have to do the big 3 or anything else to handle this wattage? i have 98 navigator. thanks!

I wired up my BL 15 D2, eveything is wired correctly but the sub barly moves... im powing it with a 1700 watts amp... and i set it right... is the a wiring problem or my amp? or the sub? any opinions?

Alright, I'm sure you've read it before and probably been through it; someone bought a setup and loved it but is no longer enough for them. That is also me at the moment and that is what this is about. What I have: 2010 Chevy Malibu 2 12" fully loaded Fi Q 12s in a sealed enclosure approx. 3 c.f. (built for sealed because of lack of trunk space for ported box) no upgraded alternator (reason: not easily accessible and no one pimps these malibus, so they don't make those componenets and when they do, they're expensive) 2400 Kinetik battery in trunk bigger battery upfront (duralast platinum/gold whichever they said was better, lol) Hifonics Brutus BRZ-2400 0 gauge and big …

Hey, I've got a MA Audio HK12X2 that is in need of a recone, I burped it once in '04 finals (it was it's first and las burp) it's been sitting since. The recone will need to be for spl Application, 3" VC 3/16-1/4" gap I'd appreciate any info. Thanks

n00b to the forum that is , did this one for a local guy. I'll let the pictures do the talking. It was a little dirty sorry, I had to snap pictures off quick and vaccumed when the guy picked it up. Comments welcome, I've got a few other BTL enclosures I've done I'll toss them up as well otherwise check out my photobucket page HERE

I have an old kicker 1200.1 amplifier but I'm not sure what Ohm stability it has and I'm wanting to buy an Fi BL 18" dual 1 ohm. My question is what could happen if I wired the dual 1 ohm woofer up to my amp and my amp isnt 1 ohm stable? And how can I find out if my amp is?

http://youtube.com/watch?v=fU3nZ-l4vxg just curious my old setup was a 3.5 cubed box with 36" of port. the port was on the right of the box 2"x18" it was narrow. anyways my sub was in the middle both facing forward. it was loud it got really low and moved alot of air. the link above is my new setup. the lows dont really move alot of air like the old. is it because of having to ports. or is the box design not right. the only difference of the new and the old is the new hits highs very good it hurts your ears very badly. why do some people put there subs on one end of the box with the port at the other does that make it louder. i need help with a better box i think. i want …

I have a 94 Ford Lightning and currently have a Alpine CDA-9883, Kicker KS components,4 gauge wiring, 12" L7 and Hifonics 1508D amp. Im wanting to get as much bass possible out of a single cab truck without cutting my truck up. So im looking into the BTL 12".Should I go fully loaded? I will be playing this sub everyday. At 1st I will have it running off my Hifonics amp putting out 1500rms at 1ohm. Do I need the dual 1 or 2 ohm to run it at 1ohm load? Then when I get some more money ill get a better amp. How much power can a fully loaded BTL 12" take daily? Im thinking about the Power Acoustik BAMF 5500 amp putting out 3200rms at 1 ohm. The biggest box I can fit in my tru…

ok so i just bought an 18" fi btl fully loaded dual 1ohm....i originally wanted my box to be 40"x30"x20" with a port size of 10"x18" (which would pretty much take up my whole trunk space) tuned to 35hz ....but ppl tell me thats probably too big...its goin in a lincoln navigator...can anybody PLEASE just tell me if thats ok or too big or what it is that i have to fix to make my sub hit HARD! also how should i face my sub and port? i originally thought both up, but i heard sub facing up and port facing the rear is better, is this true? ok well first off i working with a hifonics 2000 watt brutus for now...hopefully a saz3000d soon...i listen to mostly rap but pretty much e…

If I were to order 3/4 MDF boards from Home Depot. How much should I get? I want to get a LITTLE more then I should get, but not an overload of it. This is for a 20H x 25W x 20D box that will hold a 15" BTL. Thanks, -Curt

hey everybody, ive had my 15" BL for a month now and its running off a Rockford P1000-1BD (1328 rms @ 1ohm) but ive noticed after playing a couple of songs its hot to the touch but not too hot,,my gains are only half way and the bass knob is only half way.... i was wondering if this is normal and is my sub taking on any damage by being hot....????

this is a test box i built. okay it's 1.1cu. ft. and i had it tuned from 32-36-40-48. after trying all of these, the other box i have in the car is louder. do i not have enough port or wrong place? i don't know. at 32 hz the test box has a smoother transition. all the rest of the tunings were okay, not great. anyways my question is what size box would you guys recommend for spl and at what tuning? my car peaks at 43 hz in the old box. maybe i was expecting too much but after hearing the bl in my existing box i got all excited. just wanna try and make an spl box the one i have now is a pretty good dd. thank you in advance to everyone. btw it's a 3" port and a 1…

I ran 2 fi bl 18's 3 or 4 years ago off 2 sundown 1500s in like 15 cubes net. Now I am looking at running them again in a scion xb. I have a box already that is 12 cubes net @ 32hz, how well would the bl 18's do in this box off sundown 3500d? Would it be too small, the site says 5-8 cubes each. thanks for any help

My amp is going to be a 1500d, for sure. Two SSD12s have a recommended ported volume of about 5ft^3, and a BTL15 has a recommended ported volume of about 5ft^3 as well. I understand the two 12s will move more air, which may be more impressive as far as my budget will go, and being realistic, I don't anticipate being able to buy another amp or the surrounding electrical to back it up for awhile. Anyway, I ask your advice once again. Should I go with two SSD12s or one BTL15 powered off of a 1500d running at 1 ohm? If built in their ideal boxes, which would get louder, or would it matter? What would be the pros/cons of either? Mahalo, Trevor

is a single 4"ID x 5.5"L port enough for an SSD 15 in 3.5cu ft. the box will be tuned to 33. trying to finish up the details on my enclosure and i keep questioning this.

I just bought 2 10inch BLs and I have a 2600w hifonics amp, what size speaker wire should I run from my amp to the subs? ive been told 8, 10, or 12 AWG and im not sure which to go with... Thanks

I have experience with a ported 12" BTL (2500RMS amp) last year. and a ported 12" BL (1500RMS amp) before that. Figured I'd save up a do 2x15" Q's with options in a sealed enclosure. Would a 2500RMS amp be enough, or would they require more power than that since the drivers will be fighting vacuum? Recommended size per sub is 2.0-2.6sqft. Goal is to slam the lows, should I aim for a smaller or larger enclosure. Also, what's recommended for dual drivers, separate or shared internal space?

I just built a new enclosure and was wondering if 118 inches of port tuned around 31hz ok for my 4 fully loaded BL 12's?

As of right now, I have 2 800 watt sony amps. Its about 350 RMS at 2 ohms, and is unstable at 1 ohm. My link I have a BL 15, and I'm wondering if this severe underpowering of the sub is dangerous. I don't have the money right now to upgrade on an amp. Also, is it possible to use both the 800 watt amps to power the one 15?

I have never had this problem untill I started using my FI sub... So hopfully someone can shed some light on the subject.. When hitting major bass notes on full tilt, the amp shuts off and shows CUR..Which is excessive current. What is this and how the hell do I fix it?

well im planning on buying a Fi Q 12" either putting the order during this week, well the thing is that i already have the box for 1 12" it is 29w x 14h x 14d making it 2.48 cuft, 2.32 after displacement of the Fi q (.16) i went to www.the12volt.com and the calculator said that if i used a 4" diameter port it would have to be 11.33" ifor a 32hz. is that right? anyone, scott? thanks