Fi Technical

I was wondering what the best type of glue is to recone my Fi BL??

Ok well i built a box for an 18" Fi BL the specs are 42" wide, 22" high, and 22" deep. The port is 5 inches wide and 15.5 inches long. tuning it in the upper 31hz range. The box was like 8.3 cu ft. before woofer displacement. is that too big for a 18" BL with flatwind coil? Because the box doesn't sound good at all. and the woofer gets pretty warm on zx1000.1. I feel like its too big but i could be wrong.

Hey, just received my 15" Fi BL and just constructed a box for it. Box specs: Port Area - 55 Volume before displacement - 3.97 Frequency - 32.2hz - 32.6hz Setup: 15" Fi BL Jl 1000/1 2 awg wiring Stock deck Stock Electrical Here's the problem. My freind with a 12w7 in an H/O box kicks this subs ass! His Setup: 12w7 in H/O box Alpine PDX 1000.1 4 awg wiring Alpine deck Stock electrical His system is in a Dodge Magnum mine is a Ford Expedition soon to be a 96 Cutlass. My plans: Kinetik HC 1800 or more Non stock deck Big 3 under hood Maybe new ALt What else do I need to make it pound harder? New amp? Is the box good specs? Help would be amazing!!!!!!

I cut a box according to the ssd cut sheets, and it is in a 08 mazda 6i sedan (non hatch model). well.. Downside is it does not fit with the sub facing the seats. I gutted the trunk to bare metal to see if it would help me try to squeeze it in.. NADA. I PROMISE you it does not fit any other way unless I somehow build it in the trunk. So my dilemma, is that the sub is pointing straight up towards a panel, and a lot of the bass "energy" is soaked up from it. Is anyone knowledgeable to give me the smallest possible dimensions for 33hz ported box? I suck at numbers, they give me headaches, and I failed alg. twice in college.. lol. I know that sounds lazy, but sub boxes are n…

I need some help building a ported box. I wanted it to be Width:44 Hight:20 Depth:17 And tuned too 34 Hz. I have never build a ported box before lol. This is for a fully loaded BL 15.

I need a box design for 2 12in fi qs with max diminsions of 30W x 17H x any depth. Preferably with the port in the middle. Thanks.

Title says it all. I can build a enclosure with about 11 cu ft (internal volume, displacement of the subs has been removed). I read on a forum a while ago that you get the best SQ if you go with a big vented enclosure. I want to hit the lows but not to loose the highs completely. I listen to almost everything that's called music. That means from Queen to ATB to Bob Marley. My goal is SQ. The car is a Toyota Celica GT, this one: I will be using a Hifonics BXi 2610D amplifier pushing 2600W rms on to two Fi Q 18" subs. The optimal vented enclosure as I have read is from 6-10 cu ft for one, meaning 12-20 cu.ft. for two subs. Or 4-8 cu.ft. for a sealed enclosure, 8-16 cu.f…

Hi there, after trying to build my own ported box , with certain limitations, i came to ask myself that why do we need 12-16 sq inches of port are per cufeet ? The answer was to avoid air shuffing. BUT ! If a box is 3cufeet , the good book says to use minimum of 36 sq inches(minimum) port area for it, now if we use the same sub to play in a 5 cu feet box, port area increases to 12X5 = 60sq niches (minimum) Now i am guessing that the subwoofer will not miraculously start to push more air ,and that we may have to increase the port area to avoid air shuffing. The sub should displace the same amount of air in a 3 cu feet box or 5 cu ft box. So , why not use 36 sq inches port …

how much would be to get a recone for a re xxx18 d2

I'm sure it's probably not a big deal but my my dad had accidentally barley scratched the surface of the surround of my sub and decided to put a bead of epoxy to cover it and I was kinda upset .. And also while removing my sub from the box my right hand had slipped and accidentally hit the dust cap .. Nothing was damaged because of the hard cap but will these effect my sub and should I worry about it or is it not a relaly big deal?

I was just wondering if anyone has some box specs for a single 15" BTL for a 2002 Nissan Sentra XE? Any help would be great. Thank you.

Hello, today was one of the worst days ever, and what happened I thought never would, but it. So I'm here today to ask for advice. I was mounting the sub (15 fI Bl) and my hand slipped and ripped the outer foam ring around the sub. It's closer outside towards the steel ring where the holes are, and you can't see it unless you fold the ring. I managed to stop and retract and not run the whole screw drover through, but it did rip. Upon inspecting it closely I lost no material, it's just a 1/8 inch long tear. My question is this fixable? In been reading like crazy and can only see two common solutions. Silicone or superglue. I am leaning more towards the silcone because it w…

I'm kind of limited in space but here are the maximum external dimensions 34"W 18"D 14.5"H Sub is Fi BTL dual Mag. One out of Shawn Fleming's van from 2007 Dytna SBNs if anyone is familiar w/what he had. I only know that tit is a dual mag and will definately play music. Amp Sundown 3K Not looking for SPL nor just the LOWZ Sub up port back (I will do both in center although woofer mounted to one side makes more since to me) but hey what do I know I can't even measure CF So I guess basically can anyone figure out how much Cf my box will be minimal bracing (just 3 2x2s) 2 13"L 1 32.5"L and dimensions on a port WxH=port but how deep to adjust the tuning? Would like …

This is my setup: A US Acoustics USB-2150 rated for 450 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms powering an 18" Fi Audio IB3 at 4 ohms. I have a seemingly solid install now, but my score has stayed the same, 132 and change on both the termlab and my spl labs lcd bass meter. Check out my build HERE. I decided to test the output of one of my sub amps. I tested with tones from 25hz to 65hz. I checked the AC voltage output of the amp. Simultaneously I checked the output amperage to the sub at the positive wire to the sub. With these numbers I calculated the wattage by multiplying the volts times the amps. I also calculated the impedance by dividing the voltage by amperage. This is what I got 25Hz…

To get right to the point I'm trying to determine what upgrades are necessary, and most importantly where to get this done. I installed a 200amp alternator, and 3 batteries with a single run of 1/0 from the front. I am wanting to run around 8-10kwatts rms, have about 7k now, and want to try to keep my voltage pretty steady. More batteries are in the plan when I figure out how to put them, but I really want some info on the alternators/wire. I have this on 2 btl 18s. I went to all the local shops here in Myrtle Beach, including alternator specialist shops, and besides the one that wanted way too much for a 300a alt, all of them said they could not get anything above 200amp…

Just bought a pair of the older double slug Q15's for my buddies install in his Suburban. Can't remember the specs of these models, so I wanted to get it straight from you guys at Fi. They are fully loaded and I also believe they are the high QTS models, as the previous owner had them installed in sealed boxes.... My friend is looking to have me design a sealed enclosure for them, and I am not sure what the recommended volume is for them. Can you help me out? They will be powered with an MB Quart Onyx 1000 @ 2 ohms for about 750 RMS to the pair. Possibly will add a second amp to power each sub on its own amp later down the road, but that has not been decided yet. Merry Ch…

Im considering eithet a 15" or an 18" Fi BL. I have an alpine mrd-m1005 amplifier (approx. 1100 watts rms @ 2 ohms). I want to stick this thing in a ported enclosure in the trunk of my cutlass, facing backwards. What would be the absolutely optimal enclosure size for these applications (both sub sizes)?

Currently I'm using the 9 cube @ 32hz after displacement feeding it about 1.1kw rms and it sounds pretty good but I was wondering would I gain anything from going with a smaller box (7.7 @ 35hz~). IE: would I feel the bass a bit more? would it bit any louder? The only real thing I know about having such a huge box tuned at 32hz is the lows it will pound, other than that I'm a noob when it comes to the dif sizes... Fi GURUS, once again I need your help!

i currently have 1 18 btl in 7 cft box ported. but i have another btl which is stored in my room ^^. the problem is my trunk will only fit a 10 cft box without displacement. so would this be ok or should i stay with one btl and sell the other? would the volume increase with that small box?

Hello Guys/Gals, I was wondering if cold weather will damage a sub? Do I need to keep it down till warmer weather, or can i just let them wang? I live in northern Indiana and its currently in the teens here, so stuff gets brittle... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

ive spent about 4 hours trying to figure out how ohms work. i feel like im the only one that gets confused on this subject. apparently is simple. someone help. im going to get a btl 18 inch but im not sure if i need to get a dual 1 or dual 2. i want to run a Hifonics amp thats at least 2000w. but if someone could tell me what the ohms have to be on the amp for me to get. or if someone could suggest a Hifonics amp for me. that would be greatly appreciated. on another subject...... what are some decent quality speakers that go with this? (6.5 inch speakers) or just tell me some good companies to buy from

I have never had this problem untill I started using my FI sub... So hopfully someone can shed some light on the subject.. When hitting major bass notes on full tilt, the amp shuts off and shows CUR..Which is excessive current. What is this and how the hell do I fix it?

Greetings, and thank you in advance for considering my inquiries. : ) After becoming privy to the specs and recommendations for the 15" BLs, Qs, and SSDs, I have hit a wall in my plans for purchase. It appears ported enclosures are exclusively recommended for the BLs and SSDs of this driver size. However, the problem is the recommended tuning of which is higher than my target low frequency response of 20 hertz. My questions are: 1). Are these recommended tuning figures aimed at SPL applications? I'm far more concerned with brilliantly effective low range response than mid- bass volume. 2). Can they be tuned to 20 hertz and still be effective drivers? 3). If not, would a …

im currently in the process of building my system using the said products in the Title.. my question are, will this amp be good if not perfect for the 18" BTL fully loaded? is the amp stable at 1 ohm? ive seen the specs of this amp but im kinda confused cause it was only CEA certified at 2000wrms @ 2ohms. i'll be adding a Kinetik HC2400 battery using a 90 amp stock alt and a regular battery? do you think my electricals can handle my system? and lastly, im gonna jail the sub with a 5cu.ft. (net) enclosure tuned at around 30 to 33Hz. will this planned system work? oh and btw, is that amp even good enough to work with in the first place?

hello its me again I AM A be buiding my box tomorrow but i dont have a desing yet, ive tryed winisd but i just dont get it and i dont realy trust the reaudio calculator, so if somobody here with good experience building boxes would just make up a desing for me i will pay 5 dollars through paypal sorry but im kinda broke... lolz my dimensions are 39" width 19"height and do whatever deep i just need from 6 to 8 cuft. thanks a lot.