Fi Technical

hi there! im planning to purchase an fi q 12 and fi bl 12. i just want to know the shipping weight and shipping box dimension of these two subs. thaks in advance!!!

Hello all, I am wanting to purchase a bl 18, but possibly a q 18. The dimensions of the box i can make are around 16h 32.5w and 22d with the sub facing up. I have a couple of questions, first, does it sound better to have the port on the side of the box or going along the bottom? Secondly, would that be enough space, i calculated it to be around 5 cubes after speaker and port displacement. Lastly, this is going in a celica gt-s hatchback and i was wondering how much room do i need between the back of the car and the front of the box? I think with these measurements i left out like 6 inches between the two. Any help is appreciated.

Any chance I could get approximate T/S Specs for my re-coned subwoofers? The hybrids consist of Memphis 15-MOJO15Q1 (15" Quad 1 Ohm Voice Coils) mated to Fi D2 soft-parts with older style tinsel leads. I purchased these already assembled from a friend but he didn't have any specs on them at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Charlie Buffalo

I'm looking for someone to build me the box specified in the "BTL Cut sheets" thread. I have the Fully loaded 12" (2010) model BTL sub. I would like to know how much it would cost (both for the box and shipping). And I like to find someone who has made these before and knows what they are doing. If you can show me pics of your previous work that would be great. I would prefer it if you had a PayPal account as well. If there is anything you need to know from me, let me know. Thanks for any replies.

I'm planning on a new system in my 1970 oldsmobile cutlass. I wanted it to include 2 btl subs with my. rockford fosgate t4000bd amp. I was wonderng if amlnyone has any sugestions on any aftrmarket alternators. I was also wondering if Im able to just add a second alternator to my car or would that increase the voltage were it would screw up the cars electrical as well as burn up the amp. -Thanx, Jack

I would dare to say I am pretty cautious. I have a 12" Q dual 2, cooling and all that, and am running a 1000 watt rms mono amp to it. I was just kinda curious as to whether it was possible to blow the sub with that amp or do any damage to it. I have the level a pretty safe setting and make sure to keep the bass equalizer down, but i would like to get a little more out of it. Any insight would be appreciated

I currently have a wall in my car for 6 12s in a bandpass and I'm in the process of upgradeing my subs. My specs on the sealed chambers of my box are 3.69 cubes per side (three chambered box). Just wondering what subs would work best for a daily setup and to compete in bass boxing. Any advice would be helpfull. I'm getting new amps and waiting to get subs before i buy amps

INFORMATION: I own a 2002 pt cruiser. I am going to soon be buying a Fi Q18 and a AQ1200D for my car. I have calculated maximum external volume that the enclosure can be and it is around 8ft^3. I will upload some pictures tomorrow but its dark outside so I can't go take any pics. Two Options: 1. Sealed. Would allow me to downsize the box a bit to around 6ft^3 and give the sub some more breathing room. 2. Ported. I would keep the volume at the max and port it to 28hz like recommended. My only concern is that the space between the Q18 and the rear hatch is 4 inches. I know this will affect the sound but I don't think it will be too big of a problem. So what shoul…

So while waiting for my sub to arrive I've been messing around in sketchup, which I just learned to use. This is only my second design but I think it's pretty good. Let me know what you guys think. Only thing I'm weary about is how the sub will be right in front of where the port begins. Is this a problem? Maybe I can go narrower on the port and make it longer... Edit: Forgot to mention it's for a Fi Q 12". Also not sure of the port displacement. 3.43 would probably make more sense for a sealed enclosure...how do I take into account the port? 3.43 cu. ft. @ 31 Hz

Just yesterday listening to my system, and my sub went out. I checked all the wiring and nothing looks loose. And I don't think I blew it because there was no smoke when it went out. Is there an easy way to tell if it's blown or not? Or if anyone might know what is wrong here, please let me know. The sub is a 12" fully loaded BTL that I bought this summer. Any answers or suggestions are greatly appreciated. And if there's anything else that you need to know, feel free to ask. Thank you.

A buddy of mine has an Orion amp, I'm not sure on the model of it but it's a 2400 watt amp and the yellow ecp light I think it is comes on and there is no output from the sub so I'm just kind of wondering what the ecp light is for and why it is on.

WHICH DESIGN WOULD BE BETTER THE SUBS SHOOTING UP WITH THE PORT AT THE BOTTOM SHOOTING BACK, OR SUBS AND PORT FACING THE SAME DIRECTION.

So I just ordered an Fi Q 12" a few days ago. I only got the cooling option, didn't think the others would really be necessary. I also ordered an Audioque AQ1200D to push it. Only thing I still haven't made up my mind about is the enclosure. I do have limited trunk space, the recommended Q 12" ported box in the cut sheets thread will fit my trunk exactly with no room to spare. Sealed would be fine, but I really want to go ported. The car is an 09 GTI. Music would mostly be drum n bass, dubstep, other electronic music, basically a mix of lows and highs. I could either go sealed or a smaller ported box. I just want the clarity and crispiness along with being able to be hear…

I am about to build a new box for my bl and I wanted to know if it would sound better with the sub facing up and the port facing the back door on my jeep or have the sub and port on the same side?

I'm planning on getting a 12" Fi Q (dual 1 ohm with cooling, spider and heat ring) and putting it in a ported box and I am on the hunt for an amp to boot. I think I found what i want and its a Hifonics HFi1000D but i also saw a Hifonics HFi1200D for $50 more so i was wondering if its a good idea to go with the extra 200 watts and if i should just stay around 1000 watts since thats what the sub is rated at. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23548_Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ1200.1D.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22705_Hifonics-HFi1000D.html edit: added the amps link.

Before I explain my question I want to say I know WinISD is not going to accurately represent the output in a car, I am just using it to get a general idea of the frequency response shape of the box itself. I am trying to help a friend decide on what subs to get for his new setup. I am strongly pushing a pair Fi 12's and he asked me to design a box for him. With most drivers I put into WinISD a get reasonable looking response curves when putting in the recommended enclosure specs, and then I go on and alter designs from that point. With a pair of Fi Q 12's I started with a 4.2 cubic foot box tuned to 32Hz and this is the shape of the response I got... I suspect it is be…

Would it work out fine if i were to buy an BL or BTL, build an enclosure to spec, and power it with a crown amp or something or is that a dumb idea?

getting two 12inch BTL's fully loaded, dual 2 whats the optimal cubic feet this box should consist of and optimal port size

As of right now, I have 2 800 watt sony amps. Its about 350 RMS at 2 ohms, and is unstable at 1 ohm. My link I have a BL 15, and I'm wondering if this severe underpowering of the sub is dangerous. I don't have the money right now to upgrade on an amp. Also, is it possible to use both the 800 watt amps to power the one 15?

Well here is the thing. Yesterday I tore out all my 4 gauge wiring to upgrade it to 1/0 welding cable, soldered and heat shrink and all that good stuff. Anyways I decided to take my sub out of it's box to look at it. It's been 2 years since I took it out and it wouldnt hurt to check for any wear/possible damage. I amost forgot what the back of the sub looked like lol. So I noticed the sub is "double slugged" or how people call it. I remember on Fi's website the Q had one magnet. So my question is why did they make the older Q with 2 and the newer ones with 1? Anything changed? Any sort of benefits from it or what? Just courious though. I was thinking of getting anothe…

when u enter the box design posted on the forums for the ssd into the re box calculator i get a tune of 30 hz ??? is this right cuz i need to change the dimensions a bit for it to work for me i making a rear center console for a 10 ssd. and also i can only seem to get 17" of port area not the 27 i assume i need will this be a problum ??? and also i will not have a L port just a straight slot. any suggestions or help would be appreciated thx

What does the flatwind coil and bp power options do when buying the subwoofer? Im new to Fi and what the subs for spl.

hello, ive been looking on her for the past while and only see box designs made up for 1 btl 18. does anyone have anything made of for 2 of them? thanks

Hi, in the future, I am going to order a btl n2 12 and build the box up to reccomendations, and I just want to know what am I to expect from this subwoofer spl, sq and just over all loudness wise. This will be my first system, I just want to know should I be set with just 1 btl 12?

Where can I find some box cutouts for the old school black fiday x series 12". Can I use the new X cut outs or can I use the ssa dcon 12 cut outs. the dcons look like they are the same as the black fiday 12".