Fi Technical

which would be better... more like ""SQL"". 1 SSD 18"in a ported box or 2 SSD 18" in a sealed box ? i only have about 6.7 cuft to work with 39in x 16in x 23 in.

well im planning on buying a Fi Q 12" either putting the order during this week, well the thing is that i already have the box for 1 12" it is 29w x 14h x 14d making it 2.48 cuft, 2.32 after displacement of the Fi q (.16) i went to www.the12volt.com and the calculator said that if i used a 4" diameter port it would have to be 11.33" ifor a 32hz. is that right? anyone, scott? thanks

I own a BL and am buying an SP4. will this box design work perfectly for the SP4 and well enough for the BL? did i screw up on anything? at the bottom of my port i have bracing crossing it, will this be an issue? should the port be fully open down to the bottom of the box? i could not find any great info on port area for the SP4 so im sitting a bit over the 16 multiplier right now. i was thinking of adding a bit of that fluff to the box to make the sub feel it was in an enclosure closer to 8 cubic; is this a good idea? im going for SQ at high volume, or at least as much SQ as the SP4 can give me. what should i change, all opinions welcome. thank you. http://imgur.…

Ive got a sp4 15. Is it possible to switch the basket to an 18.

So I have 2 designs to choose from. Both designs have a total of 11 cubes and tuned @ 31Hz. This design fires into the side of my Xploder back by the hatch... Subs up, port up... What you guys think? EDIT: Big thanks to AMATT85 over @ SMD! I will be running the Qs off a MTX 92001

ive had my bl 12"( just one) for about a week and its broken in but it doesnt get as loud as i want it too. so im thinkin i may have messed up on the box. can anyone take a look to c if i messed up on the box? dimension: 14.00" h 14.50" D 35.00" W Total inside volume BEFORE sub & port displacement = 3.15 cuft Port dimensions = 3" X 12.5" x 36 (L PORT) Port volume = 0.95 cuft Sub displacemnt = 0.15 0.95 + 0.15 = 1.1 cuft. 2.0 + 1.1 cuft = 3.1

I bought two bl off cl an want to make them fullyloaded. On the order site for fi they list a 08 an 09 model. Since I'm not the orginal owner an don't know if they are the 08 or 09 how can I figure out what they are. Does it really matter can someone tell me the differences between the two. Thanks guys an gals

I am curious as to about everything about the Q. I am newer to higher end car audio and will be doing something similar to my friend, who I think is getting 4 15" BTLs. How much SPL would 3 or 4 15" Q's produce? I want something that can cause tons of vibrations, maybe flex, but still sound amazing. not quite sure what to go with yet. Any help would be great. I would like the BTL's, but I think they would take up to much room in the bed of my truck, but I have yet to take solid measurements on how much room I actually will have. I am hoping to take up no more than about 3/4 of the bed, this including amps and extra batteries. Or suck it up and go with the BL or BT…

So I finally had finished my box, got my amp and my subs came, I was just waiting for the opportunity to install I got it all hooked up and no sound... After some trouble shooting- I hooked up an old amp and speaker to make sure all my power stuff was ok and my head unit was providing signal and so my old amp and speaker worked fine... So I replaced the amp thinking that was the problem and I am still having the same issue... So either there is a problem with my two BLs, a wiring issue, or an amp settings issue... Heres the specs on my system I hope you guys can shed some light on my situation... Thanks 2 10 in FiBL 1 Ohm DVC Hifonics BXI 2608D Kenwood DNX 5120 Headunit S…

Has anyone used the IB3 series subwoofers, specifically the 18" in a home audio open baffle application? If so, what were the results and how much eq was needed, if any? If ordered new, does anyone recommend any modifications during manufacturing that would improve OB performance? Thank you!

Fella's, I am running 2 BL 12's in a ported 4.23 cubic ft enclosure tuned at 33hz. Is this enclosure large enough for the BL subs? The enclosure is 1" thick all sides, braced inside 1" thick and has a 2" front baffle so i know its strong enough.

So the plan is to buy 2 Fi BL 12's dual 1ohm, with the cooling option and flat wind what is the new rms power rating (approx) I know it depends on the enclosure so optimal ported at 33hz. In a Jeep Grand Cherokee I plan on running the two on either a Re audio VLX-3DE or Hifonics BRZ2400 (2400 watts)

This happens to me several times (actually everytime I turn up the volume). Just playing like 10-15 mins and I could smell the VC. When I touch its hot (not to the point where you can cook eggs with it) but just wondering whether I am killing the Q slowly if not quickly. the amp also runs hot but amps are made that way (thats why they have heatsink). Is my sub ok with it or is it with the low voltage and high current thinggy... thanks Wynold

My BL just stared making the noise yesterday, the sub is hooked up to a MTX TA81001. The gain is set at little over half. I really hope the voice coil is not going out.

i would like to ask about the best enclouser firing direction for this truck? i have a 4 cb. box tuned to 32 hz. sub and port facing the same same way, but facing it forward it puts the port to close to the back of the seat and firing it up flexs the top unreal! can anyone help me with suggestions on a goob enclouser build for a silverado ext. cab truck with a loaded bl 15 on 1500 watts? music prefrence is rock and rap bass tones... thanks for all suggestions...also i would like for it to be loud and hit hard as possible and keep the enclouser size to around 4 cb. tuned to 32 hz. again thanks...

Howdy, I've been in the planning stages on this for a while and I think I've got it figured out. I'm going for 4 x BTL 12's Fully loaded in this wall: The specs are like this: 19.69 cubes gross 16 cubes net (Subs and Ports removed) 4 cubes per sub Tuned to 32hz with 266.875 sq. in. of port I'd like to run dual 2 ohm BTL's and have each one off of a Orion HCCA-D5000 so roughly 2500 watts RMS per sub (10k total). I'm planning to run all Knu Konceptz 1/0 wire with multiple runs to a battery bank of 6 Kinetik HC2400's in the trunk and 2 200 amp alts. So my question is, do these specs look good for the subs and such?

I bought a pair of the 10" BL's with the SPL option a few years ago, maybe 4. I have no use for them anymore as a burp only sub. Is there a way to change them to a musical and burp sub without having to change motors? I know the gap is pretty tight since it's a burp only sub, just not sure if it's as simple as buying a new recone or if it's more expensive.

need dimensions on a box for a 15 fi sp4. website says 3,5 cu ft but other people are saying go 4 cu ft. really would appricate it

My buddy bought a Triple stacked BTL (first gen??) and I currently own the 2010? UFO style BL (without red sticker on bottom of magnet). My main point is will it be worth it to get his BTL? Im not sure how much of a difference the generations actually make but I'm assuming a newer generation BL will perform the same as an older generation BTL. Opinions? Im going basically for SPL and the box is 3.75 ft^3 @ 32 Hz. Please no flaming. Im already one hundred percent satisfied with my BL but just wondering if the BTL will give me that extra boom boom ya know. Ohh, and both the subs are fully loaded 15's and will be ran off of my RF T-1000Bd.

I have a BTL 15 dual mag hooked up 1 ohm mono to Sundown 3000. When I really want to get on it the sub sounds like it is bottoming out. When I had it hooked up 2 ohms it did not do this. Also I have yet to blow my 100 amp fuse. Have 300 amp fuse standing buy but with the popping I have to keep the sound down enough so I don't know if I'll ever blow this 100A fuse. Doesn't sound like tinsel slap to me. Box is tuned to 35hz and is almost 4cf. Thanks in advance Ronrico Joe

i'm debating on weather i should run my pcx2400 (800rms x 2 @ 2ohm) To 2 FI Q 10" dual 1ohm subs, in a prefabbed under seat downfire box, sealed .55cubes ea. (subthump.com) http://www.subthump.com/chd.htm OR build a custom box and remove part of the backseat ported 15 or 18 FI BL Dual 2ohm with the PPI pcx2400 1600w RMS x 1 @ 4ohms. in a box built to spec. problem with the big ported single sub is i'd be losing half the backseat, and would be visible by just looking in the window. I'm open to different sub/box combos using the ppi amp. console? blow through? behind the seat? 800x2 @ 2 or 1600x1 @ 1

I have experience with a ported 12" BTL (2500RMS amp) last year. and a ported 12" BL (1500RMS amp) before that. Figured I'd save up a do 2x15" Q's with options in a sealed enclosure. Would a 2500RMS amp be enough, or would they require more power than that since the drivers will be fighting vacuum? Recommended size per sub is 2.0-2.6sqft. Goal is to slam the lows, should I aim for a smaller or larger enclosure. Also, what's recommended for dual drivers, separate or shared internal space?

I have a blown Pioneer Premier w3002 D2 and I wanted to know , could I get a recone for this sub with Fi parts. Its 1000rms.

Started on my box today for a single Fi Q 15" (still haven't ordered it yet though...). I just had to order from Fi as after reading tons of reviews and talking to a few people, I have heard nothing but great things, whether it be the great quality, customer service, and pricing. Anyway the box is sealed (thought I'd make my first build a little easier on myself...). The Q's should do well in both sealed and ported enclosures, correct? I double layered the top to make it 1.5" thick. The inside dimensions of the box are 11.75" tall x 20.5" wide x 20.5" deep. Total is 2.86ft.^3. Subtract the sub displacement from that and the grand total is 2.67ft.^3. The .7 (almost a 1" cu…

it was making a popping sound a few days ago. then yesterday it happened the coil broke from the cone. im going to try in glue it back witch glue should i use ?