Fi Technical

Hi all, one of my friend just bought a new 18"ssd with Flat wind and Bp power. he wanted to achieve maximum spl with minimum power so a bigger sub was chosen. Now, he has a blaupunkt vpa1500pro amplifier which puts out 950 Rms @ 2ohms and 1500@ 1 ohms. As the sub is dual 1ohms, he will be wiring it at 2ohms for a clean 950rms output. Now the problem starts, the car boot is limited to 4.5cufeet of space at maximum, the idea was to go for a ported box but as recommended by FI on this forum first few topics, atleast 6cufeet is needed for a SSD . And that's true due to its lesser powerful motor compared to Btl's or SMD's which can be used in 4.5 cufeet ported boxes. Roun…

I have experience with a ported 12" BTL (2500RMS amp) last year. and a ported 12" BL (1500RMS amp) before that. Figured I'd save up a do 2x15" Q's with options in a sealed enclosure. Would a 2500RMS amp be enough, or would they require more power than that since the drivers will be fighting vacuum? Recommended size per sub is 2.0-2.6sqft. Goal is to slam the lows, should I aim for a smaller or larger enclosure. Also, what's recommended for dual drivers, separate or shared internal space?

well im planning on buying a Fi Q 12" either putting the order during this week, well the thing is that i already have the box for 1 12" it is 29w x 14h x 14d making it 2.48 cuft, 2.32 after displacement of the Fi q (.16) i went to www.the12volt.com and the calculator said that if i used a 4" diameter port it would have to be 11.33" ifor a 32hz. is that right? anyone, scott? thanks

after beating my subs for 8 months it appears my spiders got real soft. if i pust the cone its not as stiff as it used to be. so i was wondering. if i recone my subs, how much increase in output will i see. a rough estimate will do. thanks in advance.

Hello everyone If anyone has the free time and could come up with a simple box for me that would be great. Id like to run them sealed and i will be giving them plenty of juice. ab 400.1 @ .5ohm. I have the electrical to back the amp up. The box will be going in a mazda 3 hatchback. Thanks for the time. Give me a email address and ill send over a few bucks via paypal. Thanks again.

i have 2 10" Q's sealed, when i installed them i set the amp, after a few days i noticed they could take more (with out hearing a pop sound) so i adjusted the amp higher, i have done this twice now........ just want to make sure this is normal.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=fU3nZ-l4vxg just curious my old setup was a 3.5 cubed box with 36" of port. the port was on the right of the box 2"x18" it was narrow. anyways my sub was in the middle both facing forward. it was loud it got really low and moved alot of air. the link above is my new setup. the lows dont really move alot of air like the old. is it because of having to ports. or is the box design not right. the only difference of the new and the old is the new hits highs very good it hurts your ears very badly. why do some people put there subs on one end of the box with the port at the other does that make it louder. i need help with a better box i think. i want …

Howdy, I've been in the planning stages on this for a while and I think I've got it figured out. I'm going for 4 x BTL 12's Fully loaded in this wall: The specs are like this: 19.69 cubes gross 16 cubes net (Subs and Ports removed) 4 cubes per sub Tuned to 32hz with 266.875 sq. in. of port I'd like to run dual 2 ohm BTL's and have each one off of a Orion HCCA-D5000 so roughly 2500 watts RMS per sub (10k total). I'm planning to run all Knu Konceptz 1/0 wire with multiple runs to a battery bank of 6 Kinetik HC2400's in the trunk and 2 200 amp alts. So my question is, do these specs look good for the subs and such?

I have a BTL 15 dual mag hooked up 1 ohm mono to Sundown 3000. When I really want to get on it the sub sounds like it is bottoming out. When I had it hooked up 2 ohms it did not do this. Also I have yet to blow my 100 amp fuse. Have 300 amp fuse standing buy but with the popping I have to keep the sound down enough so I don't know if I'll ever blow this 100A fuse. Doesn't sound like tinsel slap to me. Box is tuned to 35hz and is almost 4cf. Thanks in advance Ronrico Joe

I Have 2 12 Inch Fi BL's and i dont know what amp i should go with i was leaning towards a sundown audio 2000D but also was looking at soundstream PCX 2000D .. any suggestions on what i should do ?

getting two 12inch BTL's fully loaded, dual 2 whats the optimal cubic feet this box should consist of and optimal port size

is there anyway i can do three ported btl'15.. H=17" W=47 D=31

Here is my problem/hold up. I am getting a new truck, one for pure audio fun, full size of course. I will be doing a cut through, so the entire bed is game. I want tons of SPL, enough to make your stomach almost turn. I want 4 15's and am not sure what to go with BTL or BL. I know I need some good amps to push them. What all power wise (wires, alt, extra batteries) would I need and about how much/where can I get a alternator from. I have some crap P3's now and want to do a massive jump up. I got addicted and my friends are killin me, want to destroy them. Thanks

Hey guys im wondering what a P chamfer is on the fi q. thanks for the response!

ive had my bl 12"( just one) for about a week and its broken in but it doesnt get as loud as i want it too. so im thinkin i may have messed up on the box. can anyone take a look to c if i messed up on the box? dimension: 14.00" h 14.50" D 35.00" W Total inside volume BEFORE sub & port displacement = 3.15 cuft Port dimensions = 3" X 12.5" x 36 (L PORT) Port volume = 0.95 cuft Sub displacemnt = 0.15 0.95 + 0.15 = 1.1 cuft. 2.0 + 1.1 cuft = 3.1

Hey to every one i would like to know the shiping weight of 15" BL its kinda urgent thanks for the help

First i want to say hello, first time posting here (hope its in the right section) and after hours and hours of searching and learning i figured i would ask you guys. Well my old system ended up taking a crap on me, the 7 year old crossfire cfa-402 amp i had finally died (still kept the amp) so i upgraded to a Alpine mrp-m1000 amp to give me some room to upgrade, about 4 weeks later my sub died due to my stupidity of not keeping my finger off the volume knob (mtx 5500 15"). but hey i bought it 3 years ago before i knew anything about car audio and it was only $164 and i know i can get alot better from Fi. So now I'm without bass and I'm looking to upgrade to Fi since i …

So I finally had finished my box, got my amp and my subs came, I was just waiting for the opportunity to install I got it all hooked up and no sound... After some trouble shooting- I hooked up an old amp and speaker to make sure all my power stuff was ok and my head unit was providing signal and so my old amp and speaker worked fine... So I replaced the amp thinking that was the problem and I am still having the same issue... So either there is a problem with my two BLs, a wiring issue, or an amp settings issue... Heres the specs on my system I hope you guys can shed some light on my situation... Thanks 2 10 in FiBL 1 Ohm DVC Hifonics BXI 2608D Kenwood DNX 5120 Headunit S…

Is it ok to run 3 subs off 1 amp without any major worries. I was thinkin 3 15" BL's off 1 RF4000.1. What do you think? Or maybe I should just shut up and run 3 SAE-1000D's.

This happens to me several times (actually everytime I turn up the volume). Just playing like 10-15 mins and I could smell the VC. When I touch its hot (not to the point where you can cook eggs with it) but just wondering whether I am killing the Q slowly if not quickly. the amp also runs hot but amps are made that way (thats why they have heatsink). Is my sub ok with it or is it with the low voltage and high current thinggy... thanks Wynold

hi im a proud Fi owner and was planning on upgrading some time in the near future.. i have a BL right now and would like to upgrade to a BTL... i had a custom enclosure made just for my BL made to all Fi's specs... i was wondering would it be possible to reuse this box for a BTL?

I'm about to recone my N2s, as well as changing the size of the basket. Shipping is over $160 to Fi and back and that's a real bank breaker for a poor guy like myself. How easy is it to change the basket on the N2s, and is it easy enough to recone a sub by an average joe?

I'm running an SSD10 in a ~.8cuft sealed box with 400W from a PDX. I'm mostly satisfied but it seems to lack the very bottom end...just doesn't have any oomph and sounds like response rolls of pretty sharp. I only notice it once in a while on certain tracks where I expect to get a low hit. I've had this sub for a couple of years but I swear the enclosure specs used to call for a larger enclosure compared to the .2-.6 I see now. That's why I'm in the bigger box. Can this thing really perform well in .3-.4cuft?

So I just ordered two of these X 10's without really paying close attention. I have an Audiopipe APSM1300 amp that does 600@2ohm and 1000@1ohm. My question is are these subs maybe a little underrated because I've also read these amps might be a little overrated. I can always turn the gains and bass level down and go easy on the volume knob. Does this sound like it may work? I dont really have much more of a budget for subs. Im also not looking to be real loud.

So I have 2 designs to choose from. Both designs have a total of 11 cubes and tuned @ 31Hz. This design fires into the side of my Xploder back by the hatch... Subs up, port up... What you guys think? EDIT: Big thanks to AMATT85 over @ SMD! I will be running the Qs off a MTX 92001