Fi Technical

OK so i have a hifonics 1606 powering one 12 Q and i have the gain turned all the way down and the multi meter is reading 36.6 volts and if i turn the gain up to about half way it reads like 55 v. i am confused and my headunit is only 2 v preouts what is goin on, is there anywone that lives in so cal that can help me set my gains and check my setup because i am either just plain stupid or something is wrong.

Hello everyone If anyone has the free time and could come up with a simple box for me that would be great. Id like to run them sealed and i will be giving them plenty of juice. ab 400.1 @ .5ohm. I have the electrical to back the amp up. The box will be going in a mazda 3 hatchback. Thanks for the time. Give me a email address and ill send over a few bucks via paypal. Thanks again.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=fU3nZ-l4vxg just curious my old setup was a 3.5 cubed box with 36" of port. the port was on the right of the box 2"x18" it was narrow. anyways my sub was in the middle both facing forward. it was loud it got really low and moved alot of air. the link above is my new setup. the lows dont really move alot of air like the old. is it because of having to ports. or is the box design not right. the only difference of the new and the old is the new hits highs very good it hurts your ears very badly. why do some people put there subs on one end of the box with the port at the other does that make it louder. i need help with a better box i think. i want …

I Have 2 12 Inch Fi BL's and i dont know what amp i should go with i was leaning towards a sundown audio 2000D but also was looking at soundstream PCX 2000D .. any suggestions on what i should do ?

I am curious as to about everything about the Q. I am newer to higher end car audio and will be doing something similar to my friend, who I think is getting 4 15" BTLs. How much SPL would 3 or 4 15" Q's produce? I want something that can cause tons of vibrations, maybe flex, but still sound amazing. not quite sure what to go with yet. Any help would be great. I would like the BTL's, but I think they would take up to much room in the bed of my truck, but I have yet to take solid measurements on how much room I actually will have. I am hoping to take up no more than about 3/4 of the bed, this including amps and extra batteries. Or suck it up and go with the BL or BT…

after beating my subs for 8 months it appears my spiders got real soft. if i pust the cone its not as stiff as it used to be. so i was wondering. if i recone my subs, how much increase in output will i see. a rough estimate will do. thanks in advance.

getting two 12inch BTL's fully loaded, dual 2 whats the optimal cubic feet this box should consist of and optimal port size

is there anyway i can do three ported btl'15.. H=17" W=47 D=31

i have 2 10" Q's sealed, when i installed them i set the amp, after a few days i noticed they could take more (with out hearing a pop sound) so i adjusted the amp higher, i have done this twice now........ just want to make sure this is normal.

I have a BTL 15 dual mag hooked up 1 ohm mono to Sundown 3000. When I really want to get on it the sub sounds like it is bottoming out. When I had it hooked up 2 ohms it did not do this. Also I have yet to blow my 100 amp fuse. Have 300 amp fuse standing buy but with the popping I have to keep the sound down enough so I don't know if I'll ever blow this 100A fuse. Doesn't sound like tinsel slap to me. Box is tuned to 35hz and is almost 4cf. Thanks in advance Ronrico Joe

Howdy, I've been in the planning stages on this for a while and I think I've got it figured out. I'm going for 4 x BTL 12's Fully loaded in this wall: The specs are like this: 19.69 cubes gross 16 cubes net (Subs and Ports removed) 4 cubes per sub Tuned to 32hz with 266.875 sq. in. of port I'd like to run dual 2 ohm BTL's and have each one off of a Orion HCCA-D5000 so roughly 2500 watts RMS per sub (10k total). I'm planning to run all Knu Konceptz 1/0 wire with multiple runs to a battery bank of 6 Kinetik HC2400's in the trunk and 2 200 amp alts. So my question is, do these specs look good for the subs and such?

well im planning on buying a Fi Q 12" either putting the order during this week, well the thing is that i already have the box for 1 12" it is 29w x 14h x 14d making it 2.48 cuft, 2.32 after displacement of the Fi q (.16) i went to www.the12volt.com and the calculator said that if i used a 4" diameter port it would have to be 11.33" ifor a 32hz. is that right? anyone, scott? thanks

Hey guys im wondering what a P chamfer is on the fi q. thanks for the response!

ive had my bl 12"( just one) for about a week and its broken in but it doesnt get as loud as i want it too. so im thinkin i may have messed up on the box. can anyone take a look to c if i messed up on the box? dimension: 14.00" h 14.50" D 35.00" W Total inside volume BEFORE sub & port displacement = 3.15 cuft Port dimensions = 3" X 12.5" x 36 (L PORT) Port volume = 0.95 cuft Sub displacemnt = 0.15 0.95 + 0.15 = 1.1 cuft. 2.0 + 1.1 cuft = 3.1

Hey to every one i would like to know the shiping weight of 15" BL its kinda urgent thanks for the help

First i want to say hello, first time posting here (hope its in the right section) and after hours and hours of searching and learning i figured i would ask you guys. Well my old system ended up taking a crap on me, the 7 year old crossfire cfa-402 amp i had finally died (still kept the amp) so i upgraded to a Alpine mrp-m1000 amp to give me some room to upgrade, about 4 weeks later my sub died due to my stupidity of not keeping my finger off the volume knob (mtx 5500 15"). but hey i bought it 3 years ago before i knew anything about car audio and it was only $164 and i know i can get alot better from Fi. So now I'm without bass and I'm looking to upgrade to Fi since i …

So I finally had finished my box, got my amp and my subs came, I was just waiting for the opportunity to install I got it all hooked up and no sound... After some trouble shooting- I hooked up an old amp and speaker to make sure all my power stuff was ok and my head unit was providing signal and so my old amp and speaker worked fine... So I replaced the amp thinking that was the problem and I am still having the same issue... So either there is a problem with my two BLs, a wiring issue, or an amp settings issue... Heres the specs on my system I hope you guys can shed some light on my situation... Thanks 2 10 in FiBL 1 Ohm DVC Hifonics BXI 2608D Kenwood DNX 5120 Headunit S…

Here is my problem/hold up. I am getting a new truck, one for pure audio fun, full size of course. I will be doing a cut through, so the entire bed is game. I want tons of SPL, enough to make your stomach almost turn. I want 4 15's and am not sure what to go with BTL or BL. I know I need some good amps to push them. What all power wise (wires, alt, extra batteries) would I need and about how much/where can I get a alternator from. I have some crap P3's now and want to do a massive jump up. I got addicted and my friends are killin me, want to destroy them. Thanks

I'm about to recone my N2s, as well as changing the size of the basket. Shipping is over $160 to Fi and back and that's a real bank breaker for a poor guy like myself. How easy is it to change the basket on the N2s, and is it easy enough to recone a sub by an average joe?

I'm running an SSD10 in a ~.8cuft sealed box with 400W from a PDX. I'm mostly satisfied but it seems to lack the very bottom end...just doesn't have any oomph and sounds like response rolls of pretty sharp. I only notice it once in a while on certain tracks where I expect to get a low hit. I've had this sub for a couple of years but I swear the enclosure specs used to call for a larger enclosure compared to the .2-.6 I see now. That's why I'm in the bigger box. Can this thing really perform well in .3-.4cuft?

So I just ordered two of these X 10's without really paying close attention. I have an Audiopipe APSM1300 amp that does 600@2ohm and 1000@1ohm. My question is are these subs maybe a little underrated because I've also read these amps might be a little overrated. I can always turn the gains and bass level down and go easy on the volume knob. Does this sound like it may work? I dont really have much more of a budget for subs. Im also not looking to be real loud.

Im purchasing 1 fi btl n2 18 inch, and im not sure whether to choose dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm. I have a 4000 watt mono amp with a lowest possible rating of 1 ohm. I used to have 2 12s but im moving to this 1 18 inch and wish to have it running at 1 ohm. Ive read around and from what ive heard, i should go with the dual 2 ohm sub, but i wanted to be sure before this purchase. thanks for your help

Is it ok to run 3 subs off 1 amp without any major worries. I was thinkin 3 15" BL's off 1 RF4000.1. What do you think? Or maybe I should just shut up and run 3 SAE-1000D's.

I have a 15" Soundsplinter RL-p thats in need of a recone. Sub works fine, just the cone is starting to seperate from the surround. Tryed CA glue and it worked well for a while, but its coming lose again. I was wondering if a recone was possible for this sub. BTW, I sent a email to Nick a few weeks ago, but didnt get a response, so I decided to make this thread to possible get a solution. Thanks.

I have a 94 cadillac fleetwood I am trying to find the best way to put 2 18" btl fully loaded in the trunk I have 2 t40001d rf amps and enough juice to run it all I just need to find out wat everyone thinks will be the best way to due it. Also is it ok to put the ports on the outsid of the box so that way i can keep the cubic foot in the enclosure at the max