Fi Technical

Ok I have read many posts and I think its something I will need. The Q cant take 2000w daily I dont think. I want to run my Autotek mm2000.1. If I buy the dual 1 and run in at 2 ohms the Q will get 1500 daily. I dont really compete, just little local shows. I think that much daily I should probably get the BP option just to be safe. Does it take away from SQ with the changes that are made? Am I better off selling my amp and buying something smaller?

hey guys, this is my first post lol but i have been a member for a bit. so i just got a 18" Fi Q and just built the box to 6.3 cubic feet after port and sub displacement. i have the port tuned to 31.4 hz. it sounds amazing especially in my little ass car lol fits in the trunk just perfect. i have it double baffled and it doesnt rattle or leak any air. i am running hifonics 1600 watt rms amp, turned a little over half way up, and have 0 gauge wire. stock alternator and battery. big three upgrade. i have 2 questions tho. my first question is...there is no gain setting on my amp...idk where to set the gain bc there is no knob. if somebody could give me some help with that it…

Needing a basket, as the title shows. I was wondering if you two could hook me up with something for an experiment that a friend and I are looking to undertake. I need a basket that will bolt to any of the listed motors, we have a few right now, there's a Treo SSX 534 ounce, 12" motor with a 3" coil, and a Treo 582 ounce 18" motor with a 4" coil, then we have 2 RF power series motors that are old school- like the HX2's that have 4'' coils, and we have an Orion HCCA motor with a 3'' coil. Was hoping maybe I could get an 18" or a 22" basket to play with? Let me know if you guys can help me! Got any parts for the 22" lineup machined yet? I would be happy to test some of the…

I have read a little about recommendations for size of sealed enclosures for the Q. Does anyone have some examples that they have built or used? I am not really sure how to figure out the cubes either. I know that sounds stupid, but I left math back in college. One last thing, what does "tuning to x-hz," mean? Thanks, flame all you want, just a new-B here

I recently bought a sp4 and i have it powered by a hifonics colossus, im getting a 350 amp alternator and just wondering if i need a bigger battery? Whats the point of a bigger battery cause once the car's started the alternator takes over for the electrical system right? The 350 amp alternator should be more than enough to give the amp all that it needs right?

Ive been looking into a sp4 18 and have a few questions, hoping to find somone on the fourms instead of flooding fi with emails atm. Would running a cresendo 3500 to a single 18 sp4 at .7 be to much? Also how many cubes should i go with with 1 18 on 3500 tuned to 32hz. I would be getting the sub with all the opitions also if that makes a differnce in power handling. Thanks guys!!

I have a Fi Q12 in 2.5 cubes tuned to 32Hz. I dont like the way the box was made so im gonna make a new one with left over MDF. I have max demensions of 38 wide, 14 height, and 14 depth. i still wanna tune it to 32Hz but in a smaller enclosure like 2.1-2.25 cubes. So any plans will help. Need 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume. also what difference would there be in a smaller box?

I ordered 2 15" fi btl subs I also already have 2 rf t40001bd amps.. I was curious if everyone thinks I should just use one of the amps for both subs (each amp would have its own sub) or if 1 amp should be enough for both subs.. Any help is much appreciated

placed an order this weekend for a 12" BL that will be running off of a hifonics 1606. i've drawn out plans for a box thats 2.33@33hz w/33 sq. in. of port area (haha). will the hifonics be enough to push the sub? i can go bigger on the box to let it use the power a bit more efficiently, but whats your guys' opinions on this? anyone w/experience as to exactly how much power the hifonics is capable of putting out?

Well it's time to move my set up from the S10 to the 325ix and have been crunching numbers to draw up a box. Right now I'm running my Q10 sealed at about 0.4ft^3 on a SAE-1000D at 2ohms. I will have considerable more space in the trunk of my car so Im wanting ported tuned to 27~28hz. I planned everything out so at net box volume of 1ft^3 I can use 3'' PVC at 22'' length to get 28hz. Now i'm no expert at enclosure design but I feel one 3'' port not flared will be too small? Pi*1.5^2= 7.06in^2 of port area. Id like some opinions on the matter. What do you guys think? Thanks, Mike B.

so i was on my way to work and i was subbing as usual..when i got the scent of like something burning..i really dont have the slighest idea of what it is but i can only compare it to like plastic burning..i noticed it only smelled when the bass is hitting low notes..so i get to work..8 hrs later..im leaving work and start subbing again, it plays about 10 seconds of the song and the sub goes out! and this was about 1 hour ago..so im pissed! i have no idea whats going on..everything is working fine except the sub..all lights indicate everything is good..do i need to recone it?? im not very knowledgeable with these audio systems! please help! this is my set up 1 18" fi btl 1…

hey guys... i am trying to find out the T/S Parameters of the Copper Coil Option. i was looking at the Fi site and thought it was weird that the BL rating was so low when compared to so many other drivers. would a very low BL rating not be ideal for Porting? i was considering doing a PR or Porting the box, but i was told by the guys at AE Speakers that a low BL # leads him to believe that it is not a good candidate for porting or a PR. does anyone have decent experience in porting the copper coil SSD and what results have you had?

This is my first time to mount a sub (have to learn sometime, eh?), so bare with me. The screw holes, when i look through them, i see the foam/rubber that extends from the surround. If i stretch the circle with the screw holes, i can barely get past the outer rim of the basket; making it impossible to screw the opposite side in. SO my question is, how exactly do i screw (or bolt, undecided) the thing in? I know to pilot/predrill my holes, its just i dont know how to safely do it.

Hello, I am new to this forum and the proud owner of a new dual 2 ohm Q12 with BP option. I am looking to build a ported box for the sub tuned to the recommened 32hz. I would appreciate some help with the design. The sub will be powered by a Soundstream PCA1500D. I will most likely run the sub at 4 ohms for a while until I upgrade my Big 3 sometime this summer. I would like the box to be a slot port with rounded corners somewhere in the range of ~2 cubic feet. The box will be made out of 3/4" mdf Box outer size (max): 12.5" tall 30" or 32" wide (can't recall the correct measurement right now) Depth is variable So far my calculations have brought me to the following: …

can anyone explain what each acronym or letter means and what option/s it represents? thanks guys.

Hey guys i have a FI Q 10 that is run in .5 cu ft sealed its run by a Rockford Fosgate T2500bdcp. Problem is that when you get any kind of power going to it the driver seems to unload starts popping like its has reached the mechanical limit and this is what i would consider to be at a very low volume not sure what to look for to figure this out is there anyone that has had same problem. Please help really want to hear what this thing can do any advice would be apperciated.

I'm planning on building a box for my sub, but I cant find the parameters anywhere on Fi's website. does anyone have a link or know what the parameters are?

I ran 2 fi bl 18's 3 or 4 years ago off 2 sundown 1500s in like 15 cubes net. Now I am looking at running them again in a scion xb. I have a box already that is 12 cubes net @ 32hz, how well would the bl 18's do in this box off sundown 3500d? Would it be too small, the site says 5-8 cubes each. thanks for any help

I have been searching all over the internet to find out about qts (never even heard of it before i was looking into Q's this isn't my first system, i just never accounted for it before. it looks to me like it is highly dependant on what you are doing fi q 15's have the cooling and spider upgrade options, that is it i am going for sound quality with this build, dual fi Q 15 in a sealed enclosure measuring ~ 2.3 ft^3 per sub (after displacement and bracing of course) each sub will have it's own rockford fosgate t-1500-1bd giving them ~1350watts @ 2 ohms (already had one and just bought a second off a friend, who said headroom was a bad thing) they will be in the back…

Well , finally got them in for recone. I had the pair ported on 1000w total and it was pretty good. I am going sealed now with 1000w on each woofer. (Zapco Studio 500 on each 4 ohm mono) So I see Nick really like the 1.1 sealed and other like the sealed in the 1 cu. Ft. range. My concern is for such a small box is that its not playing deep enough. I was leaning toward a slight larger, maybe 1.3 cu ft or so after displacement I would like to hear anything anyone has to say. Beat me up a little.

I'm looking into getting an Fi Q 15" subwoofer. I want a great SQ sub so I figured this was the way to go, but now I have a dilemma. I'm not sure if I should get the high QTS or not, I know I'm probably going to put it in a sealed enclosure, but I'm worried, if that isn't right for me. If I change my mind in the future and decide to go ported, is the high qts going to be a problem? Thanks.

i am looking to try out a new design in my ranger. this will be for a 15" btl fully loaded. my max outer dimensions are 50 long x 16 deep x 18t all. heres the kicker, i would like the sub in the middle of the box facing the roof and would like to have the ports doing the same on each side of the sub. i am looking to get it tuned to 30-35 hz. the only reason i want the sub in the middle is because my truck is bagged and i want the weight in the center for even psi on both sides. i live near milwaukee wi if anyone is wondering

I have a fi q 12. I didnt choose the high qts option because i had planned for a ported box, but ported is wayy to big for my little trunk lol Would it matter if i put the sub, without the high qts, in a sealed box? If it matters, im going to put it in the smallest bOx possible. I dont plan on running the sub to the max, just some extra bass for daily driving. Also, i hate rattling, so you can bet i wont run it any where near max output.

I was wondering if you guys had the specs on the btl 15" fully loaded. Specifically the displacement after the 3rd mag', mounting depth, and xmax. I ran a search but no luck. How do I calculate these specs if I want to double the front baffle board. what are they afterwards. thanks for the help in advance.

Hy, I need help with my new box, as the topic title says. My car is a Mazda3 hatchback; the sub-amplifier is USAmps XT4000.1 (on it`s box it says "CEA" ), I don`t know if my version is overrated or will provide 1500W@1ohm. I want my Fi to play loud, and as low as hell . I`m thinking at a box tuned at 28-30hz. Can anyone help me with a project? I`ll measure my trunk and i`ll post here the max. possible lengths for the box. PS: I`m gonna use the stock HU with a MTX Re-Q sound procesor...