Fi Technical

How do these dimensions look for my Fi Q12 d1 Box outside diameter after using 3/4" MDF: Box: 33.5 x 14.5 x 12 Port: 1.5 x 13 x 16.5 This should give me 2.53 ft3 (before taking away sub/port displacement) and be tuned to ~32 Hz. I have been using website like the12volt.com and a couple others. I tried the RE enclosure app, but I think it is a little off. Not too sure. I appreciate any help! If this box looks off, what would be better? Thanks.

I just finished building my box last night.... Double baffle,Fiberglass,etc... My box after bracing and before the Port was 8.25cuft(internal)I have 119 sqin of port tuned to 30hz. After the displacement of the port I now have 5.85cuft. Now is my box 8cuft tuned to 30hz OR is it 5.85cuft tuned to 30hz??? And would that be too small for an 18?? thanks

Hi everyone on SSA and Fi audio, i am new to this forum. I herd lots of good things about Fi audio, so iv decided to give there woofer a try. i plan on ordering one in a few weeks. im thinking im gonna get me a single 15" BL to start Fully loaded as a daily with 2ohm and universal option. Now my question is i need plans for an enclosure and also what should it be tuned to?..... I never tuned a box myself so i may need some step by step if its a complicated design. Thanks

I ordered my btl a few days ago (fully loaded) and now it's time to buy an amp, what do you guys think of soundstream? The sub will be going in a 5 cuft pored box tuned to 32 hz Not trying to spend more than 500

Im building an enclosure for 2 12 BLs with 2500w RMS and I want to put a window in the back, Im not sure what the best material to use is, Ive heard different things but it seems my two options are 3/4inch Plexiglass or 1/2inch Lexan... Which is better?

So I just ordered an Fi Q 12" a few days ago. I only got the cooling option, didn't think the others would really be necessary. I also ordered an Audioque AQ1200D to push it. Only thing I still haven't made up my mind about is the enclosure. I do have limited trunk space, the recommended Q 12" ported box in the cut sheets thread will fit my trunk exactly with no room to spare. Sealed would be fine, but I really want to go ported. The car is an 09 GTI. Music would mostly be drum n bass, dubstep, other electronic music, basically a mix of lows and highs. I could either go sealed or a smaller ported box. I just want the clarity and crispiness along with being able to be hear…

I have the following system... '96 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2 18" Fi BLs 2 Rockford Fosgate T10001's 1 Rockford Fosgate p500-2 1 Pair Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.5" components 1 Pair Alpine Type R Coaxial 6.5" Lots of Lightning Audio Wire Alpine CDA-7897 Head Unit + 6 Disk Changer 225 amp Excessive Amperage alternator Box tuned to about 34 hz My question is, I cannot for the life of me get my subs to play the same. They are phase, wired with 8 gauge, and the polarity is correct (as long as the subs are labeled correctly). I have the amps set for master/slave, set to give each sub 1400 watts. Does anyone know what could be causing this problem?

This is my first time to mount a sub (have to learn sometime, eh?), so bare with me. The screw holes, when i look through them, i see the foam/rubber that extends from the surround. If i stretch the circle with the screw holes, i can barely get past the outer rim of the basket; making it impossible to screw the opposite side in. SO my question is, how exactly do i screw (or bolt, undecided) the thing in? I know to pilot/predrill my holes, its just i dont know how to safely do it.

ok so I have an old style 18" BTL w/ pchamf, hixmax coil, and 3rd mag.. i want to upgrade and have 2 18" BTLs but as you know they do not offer those options any more and Fi will not make me one with those options, already spoke to them.. if I buy a new style BTL with the newer motor and put it in the same box with my current BTL would that be ok? how will it sound if any one has done it ? and will i damage my sub? Thanks to everyone in advance, ****ty situation i really dont wanna have to sell this one and buy 2 new ones..

Hey everyone, I have a pair of d1 12" Q's. One of the wires coming from the cone going to the terminal on the sub snapped... and there seems to be some sort of burn on the wire (its blackened at both ends). Any explaination on why this would happen and any way to fix this. I know i can solder the wire back together but it just looks like it was too short to begin with, when i connect the two pieces of the wire together and press down on the sub it looks as if the wire was never long enough and just kept pulling on it until it finally snapped... Also if i can solder it back together should i add a longer piece of wire in? and where do i get this wire??? I dont know if this…

ok i curently own a hifonics 5000 watt... i have owned it 4 months... 1 month it sat in my spare bedroom. and for 3 months it has been at CIA engineering.. waiting to get fixed.. i got to play it for about 30 seconds before it popped...... so far i see this hifonics as being a very very unstable amp... im a daily driver bass head, should i keep the hifonics... or sell it and get TWO jl 1000/1's one for each sub i have 2 fully loaded fi bl's 3 yellow tops. all 0 gauge wire, 200 amp alt. nc2 deck and any advice would be helpfull thank you!

I have a Fi Q12 in 2.5 cubes tuned to 32Hz. I dont like the way the box was made so im gonna make a new one with left over MDF. I have max demensions of 38 wide, 14 height, and 14 depth. i still wanna tune it to 32Hz but in a smaller enclosure like 2.1-2.25 cubes. So any plans will help. Need 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume. also what difference would there be in a smaller box?

Does the 15" BL need to be in a 4cf enclosure to work well or can it be used in the smallest recommended enclosure which is 3cf without sacrificing anything?

hi all. i have a bl 12 at dual 2 hooked up to a kicker 1500zx mono amp. its all hooked up correctly yet when i turn my car on the amp goes straight to protection. any thoughts on why it might be doing this? the only two problems i can think of is that my inline is a few volts low of the requierments, or the fact that i have 4 gauge wire and might need 0 gauge? the volts from the battery are only short by about .5 volts. any input or advice would be well appreciated!!!

Needing a basket, as the title shows. I was wondering if you two could hook me up with something for an experiment that a friend and I are looking to undertake. I need a basket that will bolt to any of the listed motors, we have a few right now, there's a Treo SSX 534 ounce, 12" motor with a 3" coil, and a Treo 582 ounce 18" motor with a 4" coil, then we have 2 RF power series motors that are old school- like the HX2's that have 4'' coils, and we have an Orion HCCA motor with a 3'' coil. Was hoping maybe I could get an 18" or a 22" basket to play with? Let me know if you guys can help me! Got any parts for the 22" lineup machined yet? I would be happy to test some of the…

6 cubic foot ported box in the back of my 01 Jeep...Wondering about the size of my port and anything else that could help me. And also I was thinking about having a few circular ports...? Thanks for any help.

hey guys, this is my first post lol but i have been a member for a bit. so i just got a 18" Fi Q and just built the box to 6.3 cubic feet after port and sub displacement. i have the port tuned to 31.4 hz. it sounds amazing especially in my little ass car lol fits in the trunk just perfect. i have it double baffled and it doesnt rattle or leak any air. i am running hifonics 1600 watt rms amp, turned a little over half way up, and have 0 gauge wire. stock alternator and battery. big three upgrade. i have 2 questions tho. my first question is...there is no gain setting on my amp...idk where to set the gain bc there is no knob. if somebody could give me some help with that it…

I've read and read. Perhaps under the explaination of options, this could be added to the flatwinds description if it holds out to be true: Does Flatwind add power handling and excursion at the expense of sound quality?

Hey I ordered a SSD 15 with both BP Power and Flatwound coils that I am going to be pushing 1000 watts through with a Rockford Fosgate Prime 1000-1d amp at 2 ohms. I was wondering if the box I have planned out with the RE calculator would work with my setup. If not, some advice would be appreciated.

thinking about running a second battery in the trunk. i was told there are two ways of doing this. 1, using a isolator and 2, running the + from the front battery all the way to the second battery and then ground out the negitive. are these both true? what should i do?

Hello all, Havent been on the forums for a while but Im doing a new build and need some recommendations. I was thinking of purchasing 2 Q10" subs and installing them in .8cu ft enclosures. These enclosures are Subthump stealth boxes that fit behind the wheel wells of a 2010 Camaro. I have a few questions. 1) Whats the diameter of the magnet on the 10" Q? The max magnet diameter of this box design is 6.75". Will it fit? And do any of the build options change the magnet size? (cooling option. pchamfer, etc.) 2) The specs on Fi's website recommend .2-.5 cuft after displacement with the high qts option. The boxes I'm looking at are .8cuft. I see people on the forum talking a…

I see that the mounting depth on the 15" BTL is 8.25"; so Im assuming the mounting depth with the 3rd mag would be a inch more @ 9.25"? Would 1/2" between the back of the woofer and the enclosure be enough to let the sub vent? Cuz 1/2" is all I can do

Well , finally got them in for recone. I had the pair ported on 1000w total and it was pretty good. I am going sealed now with 1000w on each woofer. (Zapco Studio 500 on each 4 ohm mono) So I see Nick really like the 1.1 sealed and other like the sealed in the 1 cu. Ft. range. My concern is for such a small box is that its not playing deep enough. I was leaning toward a slight larger, maybe 1.3 cu ft or so after displacement I would like to hear anything anyone has to say. Beat me up a little.

Can somone toss me a few opinions on a sub box for a fully loaded Fi Bl 15. the max height of 16, with of 35, and depth of any. i used the 12volt.com port and box calculater. i typed in a 35 width,16 height, 16 depth. if came out to be around 4 cubes.with a port lenght of about 25, port with of 3inches i dont know if that right... i wanting to make a box for a tuneing of 30 or 32hz. i also used the RE calulater.. but it dont seem right... can some one help me out. toss in your opnion? i have a 1500 watt amp,i want listen to some bassy songs, mostly rap.

Been away from car audio for a bit and was curious what some others thought about this..... I found a pre-fab box that is made for higher output subs and seems to match up with the requirements for the BTL15. Here's the stats for it. Brand: AudioEnhancers Single 15 Inch: Yes Vented: Yes Tuned Bandpass: Yes Includes Terminal Cups: Yes Fits Round Sub(s): Yes Constructed With: 1" MDF Enclosure Volume: 4.87 Cu. Ft Dimensions: W 34 1/2 H 19 3/4 TD 16 1/2 BD 16 1/2 It's has 83 inches of port area, which equals out to about 17 sq inches per, just a hair more than what the site recommends. It sounds to me like it'll work. What do you guys think. I'll be pushing …